I'm going to put some skins on a bow w/ black glass....
can I use the knox gelatin "hide" glue, if so, can I apply it directly to the glass without sanding the glass?
Or should I use the Tightbond?
Thanks
TiteBond, a good cleaning with something to remove any wax should do it.
I like that quote Flinttim..... I'd never heard that before, I laughed out loud though, sounds like something he would come up with!!
Do you wrap yours with the ace bandage? I've heard about a million ways to do this, and their all different. I just dont wanna have to redo it!!
And that's Tightbond 3, correct?
thanks again
TTT. Same questions going round my head too.......
You don't need a bandage. You will need to scratch up the surface of the glass with sandpaper to get the titebond to adhere good. Here's my one piece of advice, go slow. Do one limb per night. after you soak the skin in water press the excess water out with a paper towel. As the glue dries you can readjust the skin on the limb a little, but not much. Make sure you leave extra skin on both sides of the limb as the skin will shrink a little as it dries. You can trim it easily once its all dry and the glue is set. It's really not hard. Good luck!
How do you get the glue off the edge of the limb after it dries?
The only one I did was a selfbow and I had to file the glue off the sides. But I believe there was a tutorial somewhere of skinning a glass bow and the person put painters tape along the edges (sides) of the limb so no glue would stick. I guess you could probably wax the edges of the limb also and this would keep the glue from sticking there.
Aaron
The glue will come off the edges with a sharp razor blade or your finger nails as long as you don't sand the edges before gluing. On a glass bow you only want to scuff up the surface that will receive the skin.
Does adding skins affect draw wt. or speed? Seems like it would have to make a difference, but I wonder if it's ever been tested. Tge
I used masking tape on my limb edges to keep from getting glue where I didn't want it.
I'll second the advice to go slow and careful with your cutting and sanding or feathering in edges.
Light acetone wipe will clean that glass real good.
Not to say that it's hard but there aren't any do overs. ;) It's a very satisfying process with pleasing results.
I didn't notice any performance changes in mine, but I'm sure it affects the bow slightly.
DO NOT USE ANY WRAP OR BANDAGE!!!! All it will do is move the skin and you can't see it until the wrap comes off and then it's too late. I use a sanding block on my edges and the skin comes out perfectly aligned with the edge of the bow. Any glue on the edge of the limbs is sanded off at this time it doesn't take much. The one I'm doing now is the second one Ive used Tru Oil on and I like it more than the spar var. I'll see what it does in the rain this hunting season.
Good timing! I have been wondering about this topic also. I read the thread in the how-to section and found it very informative.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000062
Are there any sponsors that sell the dried snake skins? If so who? If not, where can I buy dried snake skins?
Tom, check out Pine Hollow on the sponsors list. I think Mike carries snake skins.
thanks a lot guys, I think you got me lined out!!