Here are a couple footed risers I just finished laying up. bubinga and black walnut. Two accent lines @ .030.
IMG_7002_Original.jpg
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6E7tEtnZVrhfrE9LA
When I do mine I have to make sure the accents are the same width as the material and I have to clamp it down to a flat board or something is always out of wack with the accent or the ends of the riser material. .
Quote from: Kirkll on July 16, 2026, 10:50:09 AMHere are a couple footed risers I just finished laying up. bubinga and black walnut. Two accent lines @ .030.
IMG_7002_Original.jpg
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6E7tEtnZVrhfrE9LA
What are the holes for?
Those holes are line ups for the profiling jig. Pretty sure Kirk had it made from Brandon Sthal used to be Rose Oak. Now Hmemage on FB
yup... those footing jigs Brandon made are excellent. but you need 4" wide riser blocks to make it work right. That's why you see the extra strips i glued on the outside of the bubinga block. the bubinga block was only 3" wide.
This is the slickest pattern sanding footing jig i've ever seen. Brandon set it up so you use those holes for the cutout patterns leaving 1/4" between the lines so you can cut it out and don't waste any wood with only 1/16" hanging over to sand off. he also calculated an .060 space for footing accents so you can use a pair of .030 accents and offset the colors. Once this is run through the pattern sander, there is no further sanding necessary. They fit perfectly every time.
The whole process, including two lay ups only takes a couple hours and you end up with a pair of sister footed risers. I think he was charging a couple hundred per jig at the time, and i bought 2 custom built for my riser shape. i sent him patterns. He also used an expensive micarta backed material for the jigs so they ride on the bearings like glass. For the pattern jig for drilling those holes, he pressed 1/4" drill guides into the micarta pattern. I built up the thickness on the sanding jig itself on mine so the riser blocks are up higher on the drum sander, and i need not run the sanding belt so close to the bearing and avoid screwing up the jig.
I should send you plans for these things Jay. with that CNC set up you could build your own with some thought put into it. Bowyers would pay good money for these. Kirk
Kirk
Brandon is back making a few bows now but not making any profile jigs, so yeah if someone could do this there is good money in it. And I need a jig or two.. :bigsmyl:
Quote from: Crooked Stic on July 18, 2026, 05:20:56 PMBrandon is back making a few bows now but not making any profile jigs, so yeah if someone could do this there is good money in it. And I need a jig or two.. :bigsmyl:
How do you contact Brandon? I'm curious if he still has the cad files for these footing jigs.
Stahl Hunting Bows on Face Book. He is calling his bows Homeage Bows. Makes one once in a while and lays it out for sale.
Quote from: Kirkll on July 17, 2026, 02:46:34 PMyup... those footing jigs Brandon made are excellent. but you need 4" wide riser blocks to make it work right. That's why you see the extra strips i glued on the outside of the bubinga block. the bubinga block was only 3" wide.
This is the slickest pattern sanding footing jig i've ever seen. Brandon set it up so you use those holes for the cutout patterns leaving 1/4" between the lines so you can cut it out and don't waste any wood with only 1/16" hanging over to sand off. he also calculated an .060 space for footing accents so you can use a pair of .030 accents and offset the colors. Once this is run through the pattern sander, there is no further sanding necessary. They fit perfectly every time.
The whole process, including two lay ups only takes a couple hours and you end up with a pair of sister footed risers. I think he was charging a couple hundred per jig at the time, and i bought 2 custom built for my riser shape. i sent him patterns. He also used an expensive micarta backed material for the jigs so they ride on the bearings like glass. For the pattern jig for drilling those holes, he pressed 1/4" drill guides into the micarta pattern. I built up the thickness on the sanding jig itself on mine so the riser blocks are up higher on the drum sander, and i need not run the sanding belt so close to the bearing and avoid screwing up the jig.
I should send you plans for these things Jay. with that CNC set up you could build your own with some thought put into it. Bowyers would pay good money for these. Kirk
Kirk
If I saw pics and had patterns I m sure I could make some.
here are some more photos of the different jigs used. there are two different sanding jigs used, a drill pattern, and cutting patterns with pegs used.
using the hole jig on your riser blocks allows you to use two different riser blocks of different colors and interchange them without any waste. you lay up one first , then the second one. two lay ups= 2 footed risers. Actually there are 4 lay ups. 2 for each riser.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RvBLL96ZY4YqXrY56
What you will find is that different riser shapes and lengths with different limb pad angles require different shape footings. if you have several designs its best to design a footing jig that works on all of them. mine work well on my 15" to 19" riser lengths, but not on the 21" lengths without doing an overlay on the back of the riser to cap the end grain..... But most of my risers are 17"-19" lengths.
Ya I could make some of those and sanding templates. My cnc only cuts to 17" though. They make an expansion kit but it costs a decent amount.
Quote from: Watsonjay on July 21, 2026, 06:02:24 PMYa I could make some of those and sanding templates. My cnc only cuts to 17" though. They make an expansion kit but it costs a decent amount.
The footing jigs that Brandon made for me are 22" in length. You could easily get $150-200 per jig set that included the drill guide, and the 2 sided footing jig templates. i would imaging the drilling guides are used in the cnc jig making process too....it would take some thought building them, but well worth the efforts once you have it down. you would have to calculate the thickness of your accent strips as well as the spacing on your drilling jig to give room to cut them out with a bandsaw before running them through the pattern sander. about a 1/4" space is needed to do this.
doing the prototypes to make sure everything works would be best to use scrap wood like 2x6 doug fir or pine. or what ever cheap wood you have on hand that can go in the wood stove when done without making you cry.
Quote from: Kirkll on July 23, 2026, 03:00:48 PMQuote from: Watsonjay on July 21, 2026, 06:02:24 PMYa I could make some of those and sanding templates. My cnc only cuts to 17" though. They make an expansion kit but it costs a decent amount.
The footing jigs that Brandon made for me are 22" in length. You could easily get $150-200 per jig set that included the drill guide, and the 2 sided footing jig templates. i would imaging the drilling guides are used in the cnc jig making process too....it would take some thought building them, but well worth the efforts once you have it down. you would have to calculate the thickness of your accent strips as well as the spacing on your drilling jig to give room to cut them out with a bandsaw before running them through the pattern sander. about a 1/4" space is needed to do this.
doing the prototypes to make sure everything works would be best to use scrap wood like 2x6 doug fir or pine. or what ever cheap wood you have on hand that can go in the wood stove when done without making you cry.
I live in FLORIDA, I haven't seen a wood stove in 15 years. 😭 We do use our fire pit in the winter though.
Quote from: Watsonjay on July 23, 2026, 03:38:49 PMQuote from: Kirkll on July 23, 2026, 03:00:48 PMQuote from: Watsonjay on July 21, 2026, 06:02:24 PMYa I could make some of those and sanding templates. My cnc only cuts to 17" though. They make an expansion kit but it costs a decent amount.
The footing jigs that Brandon made for me are 22" in length. You could easily get $150-200 per jig set that included the drill guide, and the 2 sided footing jig templates. i would imaging the drilling guides are used in the cnc jig making process too....it would take some thought building them, but well worth the efforts once you have it down. you would have to calculate the thickness of your accent strips as well as the spacing on your drilling jig to give room to cut them out with a bandsaw before running them through the pattern sander. about a 1/4" space is needed to do this.
doing the prototypes to make sure everything works would be best to use scrap wood like 2x6 doug fir or pine. or what ever cheap wood you have on hand that can go in the wood stove when done without making you cry.
I live in FLORIDA, I haven't seen a wood stove in 15 years. 😭 We do use our fire pit in the winter though.
Yup.... But you guys fry like a chicken during summer months, and you can cut that humidity with a knife.... I can live with cool morning and evening temps in the summer, and just use fans to cool the house in the evening. AC isn't used much unless it gets over 90 degrees. My shop is only 78 degrees right now in the heat of the day.
Rub it in why dont you !!
Quote from: Watsonjay on July 23, 2026, 09:31:22 PMRub it in why dont you !!
:biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: