I've used aluminum shafts exclusively for decades, and my stock is mostly swaged. I just bought multiple dozens of new arrows (fletched with vanes, with aluminum bushings and press-in nocks) when Big Jim's heavily discounted them.
I'm now stripping off the vanes... I don't like vanes. When re-doing my arrows, typically I soak the back end in acetone for few minutes to remove glue and residue, but haven't worked with these bushings before. Can I just do the same as I've always done, or will that ruin the glue in the bushings? And should I pull the nocks out? I tried a handful last night without removing either one, and didn't see any negative affects on either the nock or the bushing, but I don't know what effect it could have had that I can't discern with the naked eye.
If you're referring to the modern style (non-swaged) where the nock pushes in, I have only seen where they are held but pressure, not glue.
I take a water bottle, cut off the neck, fill it with shafts and pour in acetone to the right level. Soak until soft enough to work.
The nocks are just pushed in, but the bushings are glued in. Probably with some kind of super duper glue. I want to do this without damaging the existing glue in the bushings.
I dunno. Won't the acetone soften the nocks? If you soak the nock ends in acetone, some of it might reach the glue. Don't think that would be a problem if you just wiped the shafts with acetone.
I would never shoot a nock that I knew was soaked in a harsh solvent or solvent type liquid. Thats just me. Nocks are cheap.
As far as the bushing goes, wiped with acetone I wouldn't worry at all. Soaked in it, I'd be saying hmmmmm.
What I do is just use a utility blade to scrape off the vanes and glue then use a rag soaked in acetone with rubber gloves to clean the area of the shaft that held the vanes. I then use a clear wrap over the area where I'm adding my feathers. I have never had a feather come off the shaft when using a wrap.
I like the clear wraps because I use vintage camo aluminum arrows and I like the look of those without a fancy cresting. The only bitch of it is if you have to remove your feathers to re fletch you'll have to use a utility knife once again to scrape off the wrap and then do the same process again. Works well for me.
At this point, do a test. With a dab of superglue, glue a nock into that bushing. Let it set up good, then with pliers or wise grips, see if you can easily pull that bushing out by pulling at the nock. That'll give you a good idea.
I like the clear wraps because I use vintage camo aluminum arrows and I like the look of those without a fancy cresting. The only bitch of it is if you have to remove your feathers to re fletch you'll have to use a utility knife once again to scrape off the wrap and then do the same process again. Works well for me.
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Wraps and feathers remove easily when warmed with a heat gun or hair dryer. No scraping required.
I believe I have had one bushing come out on one arrow over the years. Don't recall why but it was probably when it found a large rock to hit. As for the super glue that was probably used to fletch the vanes. A real PIA no matter what you use to get off that SG. I do the scraping with a dull knife and acetone thing. These days all my shafts get wrapped even wood. This will be a test of your patience.
Quote from: Bowsey Wails on July 14, 2026, 08:02:12 PMI like the clear wraps because I use vintage camo aluminum arrows and I like the look of those without a fancy cresting. The only bitch of it is if you have to remove your feathers to re fletch you'll have to use a utility knife once again to scrape off the wrap and then do the same process again. Works well for me.
Wraps and feathers remove easily when warmed with a heat gun or hair dryer. No scraping required.
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I'll give it a shot
I'd be very cautious of dipping the entire nock in acetone, as said above as it could soften it to the point of failure, as well as loosen the glue holding the uni bushing in. I've stripped fletching off a lot of shafts using a utility knife and wiping it down with acetone with no problems. I have used Bohning products and am currently using True North products, and I use Duco to glue my fletching on with their products. I have cleaned shafts and used both products with no issues. I have used wraps in the past, but they are not for me. I enjoy the process of dipping and cresting my shafts. When I was using Bohning products I used their Fletch Tite glue on fletching. I use hot melt for broadheads on wood shafts or glue on screw in adaptors. I have also been cutting the swagged nock end off old school aluminum and gluing in the uni bushing adaptor using gorrila super glue, I also use the gorrila super glue to glue in the screw in adaptors on aluminum shafts. So far no failures...unless I hit something really hard, knock on wood. This is an awesome obsession, enjoy the process!! :goldtooth: :goldtooth:
Jason
Thanks for all the responses. I've gained several new insights.
I'm a creature of habit... for decades, I've soaked shafts in acetone to remove residue, and then dipped them in Fletch-Laq before fletching. Neither of those steps are very convenient with these bushings and press-in nocks. I guess I shall change my habits!
Uni bushings are way way more convenient than glue on nocks. I always cut the swage ends off and press in uni bushings with some gorilla glue. You can rotate nocks, change out different nocks etc, which is way more challenging with glue on nocks.