The other post on here about using cherry for a riser got me thinking about a bunch of soft wood I had like ambrosia maple. With cnc, as I have the shape of my riser drawn out I could draw a shape perfect enough to fit completely inside the riser after in its final shape. I could then cut the G-10 to this shape and then pocket out the riser blank half glue in the g-10 then glue the two halves into a standard riser blank. I could then cut out the profile and finish shaping by hand without ever exposing the g-10. Currently i drill my limb bolt inert holes just under half inch and tap with 1/2 x 10 for the jnserts. I am guessing I would need a carbide bit to drill the g-10.
For those of you that have messed with g-10. I appreciate any tips. Also how thick of a wood gap before g-10 do you think I would need for the limb pad 1/4" Wood before g-10?
Sounds like a cool experiment to me. I can't quite picture the procedure for embedding the G-10, but the theory is good. Are you talking about embedding an offset I beam that doesn't show in the strike plate area? If so you could just use an 1/8" thick I beam or possibly 3/16, and still get an 1/8" past center shelf cut out using a std 1.75" riser block. You wouldn't need much covering the g10
That's always been an issue with G-10 that has been a love / hate thing for me. The Exposed I beams in the lamination can easily crack the finish along the lamination line. And sometimes open up a bit. It's typically moisture content changes in the wood that cause this. Even getting the wood bone dry before your build, it can happen after it's shipped to different climates. Sometime years later. Wood moves... The G10 doesn't move.
But the stuff mills nicely with std carbide tipped router bits, and drills easily with most steel bits, as long as they are sharp. High speed router bits, but slower speed on drilling is the ticket.
That G-10 is getting damn expensive though... I just dropped $600 on a couple 3'x4' sheets in 1/4" and 3/8". But this should last me awhile.
Yes. My thought was to use 2x3/4" and not quite cut to center but if you think 1/8" g-10 would be enough I could use 1" and 1/2" and pocket into the one inch. That would leave an 1/8" between center and g-10 or use 1/4" g-10 and do 1/8" on each side. I may just try it.
I bought some chunks from big jim a few years back and never used.
I remember seeing a video of a riser build, I think it was Stalker Stickbows, where South made a cut into the back of the riser with a circular saw, offset enough to accomodate the 1/8" past center, and then simply glued in a matching piece of glass or G10. This insert is then hidden by the riser overlays later in the build. Seems much simpler?
Quote from: Noah70 on June 04, 2026, 10:46:48 AMI remember seeing a video of a riser build, I think it was Stalker Stickbows, where South made a cut into the back of the riser with a circular saw, offset enough to accomodate the 1/8" past center, and then simply glued in a matching piece of glass or G10. This insert is then hidden by the riser overlays later in the build. Seems much simpler?
So it would be a little semi-circular chunk in it? Was that video on here or elsewhere , I found one but didn't have that process in it? did it go into the limb pads as that is my other concern of the wood being too soft to securely hold the bolt inserts for the limbs.
Kinda my vision 1/4 in on most sides the black line would be pocketed out and 1/8-1/4" g-10 glued in to be completely invisible and surrounded by mostly seamless wood.
Sorry
Quote from: Watsonjay on June 04, 2026, 11:02:41 AMQuote from: Noah70 on June 04, 2026, 10:46:48 AMI remember seeing a video of a riser build, I think it was Stalker Stickbows, where South made a cut into the back of the riser with a circular saw, offset enough to accomodate the 1/8" past center, and then simply glued in a matching piece of glass or G10. This insert is then hidden by the riser overlays later in the build. Seems much simpler?
So it would be a little semi-circular chunk in it? Was that video on here or elsewhere , I found one but didn't have that process in it? did it go into the limb pads as that is my other concern of the wood being too soft to securely hold the bolt inserts for the limbs.
If you are using the std 7/8"-1" long 1/2-13 threaded inserts and capping your limb pads with phenolic, you shouldn't need worry about threads tearing out. I've done many of them using softer riser woods like myrtle wood, curly maple, sycamore, Western black walnut, apple and other fruit woods too. Western english walnut is kind of soft too. But beautiful stuff.
but some guys use those short self threading furniture inserts about a 1/2" long. I was always leary about those on higher draw weight TD over 50#. i stick with the 1/2 -13 threads and run a tap into the limb pads, and use a thick viscosity super glue to install them.
I know you are still playing with your new cnc toy, and having fun with it, but seriously... i think just laminating an offset G-10 i-beam in your riser block, and capping the belly and back with overlays to hide it would be a lot simpler. only place you'll see the G-10 is running through your grip, and the back of the strike area.
Quote from: Kirkll on June 04, 2026, 01:52:51 PMQuote from: Watsonjay on June 04, 2026, 11:02:41 AMQuote from: Noah70 on June 04, 2026, 10:46:48 AMI remember seeing a video of a riser build, I think it was Stalker Stickbows, where South made a cut into the back of the riser with a circular saw, offset enough to accomodate the 1/8" past center, and then simply glued in a matching piece of glass or G10. This insert is then hidden by the riser overlays later in the build. Seems much simpler?
So it would be a little semi-circular chunk in it? Was that video on here or elsewhere , I found one but didn't have that process in it? did it go into the limb pads as that is my other concern of the wood being too soft to securely hold the bolt inserts for the limbs.
If you are using the std 7/8"-1" long 1/2-13 threaded inserts and capping your limb pads with phenolic, you shouldn't need worry about threads tearing out. I've done many of them using softer riser woods like myrtle wood, curly maple, sycamore, Western black walnut, apple and other fruit woods too. Western english walnut is kind of soft too. But beautiful stuff.
but some guys use those short self threading furniture inserts about a 1/2" long. I was always leary about those on higher draw weight TD over 50#. i stick with the 1/2 -13 threads and run a tap into the limb pads, and use a thick viscosity super glue to install them.
I know you are still playing with your new cnc toy, and having fun with it, but seriously... i think just laminating an offset G-10 i-beam in your riser block, and capping the belly and back with overlays to hide it would be a lot simpler. only place you'll see the G-10 is running through your grip, and the back of the strike area.
Ive attached a pic of what I've been using. I had to try several different taps and the 1/2 x 10 tap finally fit the threads. I have made 3 takedown risers now, two of which were in the limb design thread. I haven't capped either. It sounds like I should though. They were both spectraply with diamondwood i-beams. After I tap them I verify the insert threads to the bottom and into the countersink enough to be flush the I use a metal to wood smoothin epoxy to secure it. It sounds like i should cap with a wood or phenolic then countersink. Thank you for the advice.
I do think it would be cool to have riser that looks all wood with no riser cap and have g-10 with no sign of it.
Im going to try it. I have some spalted tamarind that can use sone strength so what the heck. Ill give it a go. Ill take pics
I'm curious how much room you are leaving for your epoxy in capsulation in that G10 sandwich? Don't want all the jelly squirting out. :o :o
Quote from: Kirkll on June 05, 2026, 12:24:44 PMI'm curious how much room you are leaving for your epoxy in capsulation in that G10 sandwich? Don't want all the jelly squirting out. :o :o
Almost none. I contemplated ordering some total boat as I heard it is stonger and I dont need flexibility of ea40. Maybe i will leave 1/16 on all sides??
Quote from: Watsonjay on June 05, 2026, 02:01:05 PMQuote from: Kirkll on June 05, 2026, 12:24:44 PMI'm curious how much room you are leaving for your epoxy in capsulation in that G10 sandwich? Don't want all the jelly squirting out. :o :o
Almost none. I contemplated ordering some total boat as I heard it is stonger and I dont need flexibility of ea40. Maybe i will leave 1/16 on all sides??
EA 40 is tough to beat. I'll be curious to see how it comes out. :thumbsup:
Quote from: Kirkll on June 06, 2026, 12:15:41 AMQuote from: Watsonjay on June 05, 2026, 02:01:05 PMQuote from: Kirkll on June 05, 2026, 12:24:44 PMI'm curious how much room you are leaving for your epoxy in capsulation in that G10 sandwich? Don't want all the jelly squirting out. :o :o
Almost none. I contemplated ordering some total boat as I heard it is stonger and I dont need flexibility of ea40. Maybe i will leave 1/16 on all sides??
EA 40 is tough to beat. I'll be curious to see how it comes out. :thumbsup:
Ok. Ill stick with it.
Started on the riser. Had to order a dust hood for the cnc and a bit to cut g10. Dust hood is in so I am starting the footing for the riser. Using black palm and spalted tamarind, both soft woods. Not sure what footer style is called but it could be done with a swing jig but the top is wider than the bottom. After I glue it back together I'll cut the block to 1-1/4" thick and cut a 1/8" pocket into it for the g10 before gluing riser block back together.
Im not sure if I should glue g10 in and let cure before gluing the rest of the block back together in case of air bubbles or just glue g10 in and rest of block at the same time to bring it back to 1.5" thick.
The chunk I am cutting from a piece of black palm
Gluing up
What thickness of g-10 are you going to use in the pocket?
A Question for you.
Typically when you build a footed riser it's done in two separate lay ups with contrasting wood colors. Actually it's 4 separate lay ups, and you end up with two sister riser blocks when you are done, with no wasted materials except saw dust.
Of course with using both a footing, and an offset ibeam there would be 6 lay ups for two risers.
I'm curious why you are wasting wood and only building one at a time?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kM6PNvCnPRy56W6Z7
I had some black palm that was only 2" wide so not wide enough for a full riser. I will save the center extra pieces from the other block for a different riser though. That is the nice thing about the cnc if you have a small piece of wood it is easy to cut the exact shape from the design.
On the g10 im not sure. What do you think? 1/8", 3/8, or 1/4? Ive never used it. I just want 1/8 gap of wood between it and centershot which is easily adjusted for.
The wide brown part will be at the top swooping back towards him in the sight window
Next step cut at around an inch and cut the g10 pocket.
Pocket is looking good. Still waiting on bit to cut g10 and vacuum hose so Im not inhaling g10 dust. Ended up milling it for 3/16 g10. A lot of worm holes in the spalted tamarind, glad Im putting in g10.
This is a pretty cool experiment. You'll have to be careful shaping your grip and not get too deep sanding on the off side thumb ledge with your spindle sander. Are you factoring a finished depth in the throat of 1.75" ?
Yes. It is .25" in from the edge of the finished exterior shape and a .25" from center of the riser the closest point to sanding through to it will probably be by the thumb area on the grip at the deepest part. We will see.
I've played with that spalted material a number of times, and i believe it's a prime candidate for
Stabilizing with cactus juice. But...i used the water thin super glue on it a few times and it sinks in pretty good for a pre sanding sealer. You might want to check out that SOLAREZ UV cure sanding sealer on this spalted stuff. That might be the ticket....
Years ago i played with thinning down EA 40 with acetone to use as a grain filler. it did the trick but was kind of a mess, and it was a b itch to sand. I think i'd try that SOLAREZ UV stuff. I bought some and it definitely fills better than lacquer. i just used a smooth rubber glove to apply it, and a bondo spreader to squeegee off the excess.It dries quickly and is easy to sand.
.02 cents worth.
Quote from: Kirkll on June 20, 2026, 12:20:55 PMI've played with that spalted material a number of times, and i believe it's a prime candidate for
Stabilizing with cactus juice. But...i used the water thin super glue on it a few times and it sinks in pretty good for a pre sanding sealer. You might want to check out that SOLAREZ UV cure sanding sealer on this spalted stuff. That might be the ticket....
Years ago i played with thinning down EA 40 with acetone to use as a grain filler. it did the trick but was kind of a mess, and it was a b itch to sand. I think i'd try that SOLAREZ UV stuff. I bought some and it definitely fills better than lacquer. i just used a smooth rubber glove to apply it, and a bondo spreader to squeegee off the excess.It dries quickly and is easy to sand.
.02 cents worth.
Ya Ive been thinking about getting some after seeing you guys talk about it on another post. Right now I have a spray can if sanding sealer.
That spalted material soaks up lacquer like a sponge. That's why i recommended other options. i like lacquer for a sanding sealer on most of the woods i use because its quick and easy to sand. But it doesn't fill deep grain slots well because it shrinks too much. So i'll save that SOLAREZ UV stuff for deep grain slot woods.
Are you going to do a practice run using some 1/4" mdf or scrap wood for your G-10 i-beam implant? I would imagine you will leave a wee bit of room around the edges to get it into the pocket all buttered with epoxy. just curious...
Quote from: Kirkll on June 20, 2026, 01:37:56 PMThat spalted material soaks up lacquer like a sponge. That's why i recommended other options. i like lacquer for a sanding sealer on most of the woods i use because its quick and easy to sand. But it doesn't fill deep grain slots well because it shrinks too much. So i'll save that SOLAREZ UV stuff for deep grain slot woods.
Are you going to do a practice run using some 1/4" mdf or scrap wood for your G-10 i-beam implant? I would imagine you will leave a wee bit of room around the edges to get it into the pocket all buttered with epoxy. just curious...
I don't think I will do a dry run. I am confident on cutting the shape, the problem is figuring the movement speed, rpms, and how deep to cut on each pass. Trying it on a wood wouldn't tell me much. They have calculators online that help and then I usually bump all the settings down a little more to be safe. If there is too much chatter ill bump the rpms up a little on the router. Im still new at this.
Well Id mostly call the cutting of the g10 a success.... Apparently the g10 that I thought was3" was really only 2 so there are a couple 1/4" or so gaps on the belly side. Any suggestions on how to fill in? Wood and ea40, or just fill with epoxy? I had my speeds too high so at one point it popped the g10 off the bed and the bit hit the material put a dent in the end of a limb pad, but not bad. I have it sunk in about 1/32 below wood surface so that should leave room for some ea40. It is a perfect fit on the rest of it but loose enough to fall out if I tip the riser over.
Glued in the g10 today. My g10 was only 2" wide and I needed 2 1/4 so I made a paste from epoxy, fiberglass, g10 dust and wood and filled in the small gaps and an extra layer on top and that should be a pretty strong combo. Ill run it through the drum sander to level it out and then glue on the other half of the riser. I know it looks a mess now but the drum sander should clean it up nicely.
Cleaned her up and now gluing the split riser back together. Tomorrow will be the big day.
FAIL!!!!! Close but no cigar, as they say. I was worried about the sight window area, so I must confess I didn't cut to .75 center as that 1/16" scared me so I only had the cnc cut to .745. Every pass it plunged deeper and I was waiting for a change in sound as it hit ghe g10, but it never happened. Instead somehow I cut too close at the bottom limb pad. I think I need to use a fence to make sure perfectly in line on the x and y axis. I have cut lines in it now that I use for alignment but I think a fence would be better. As I think about it it doesn't really matter that the g10 is showing in the pads and would actually allow me to add more strength. Id call it a good first try as I still came out with a usable riser. Now I just need to see if I can keep it hidden during shaping.
No worries on the limb pads bro... Those should be capped with linen phenolic anyway. :thumbsup:
Quote from: Kirkll on June 23, 2026, 03:34:47 PMNo worries on the limb pads bro... Those should be capped with linen phenolic anyway. :thumbsup:
Do you use ea40 or CA glue for limb pad phenolic?
I use the thick CA for my limb pads.
Thank you
I don't know whether you have experienced this yet, but you do NOT ever use super glue and wet epoxy at the same time. Things start smoking... :o :o :o Yup... serious fire hazard. chemical reaction between the two is intense.
Years ago i tried using a spot of super glue on the end of a power lam i was running up the belly ramps of a riser block on a one piece to keep it from sliding around during lay up and mixed the two glues together. :o :o :o It was scary! :scared: :scared:
No I didn't know that. I will definitely NOT do that.
Quote from: Kirkll on June 24, 2026, 12:50:12 PMI don't know whether you have experienced this yet, but you do NOT ever use super glue and wet epoxy at the same time. Things start smoking... :o :o :o Yup... serious fire hazard. chemical reaction between the two is intense.
Years ago i tried using a spot of super glue on the end of a power lam i was running up the belly ramps of a riser block on a one piece to keep it from sliding around during lay up and mixed the two glues together. :o :o :o It was scary! :scared: :scared:
Glad to know that! I contemplated doing that during a lay but didn't.
OTOH, I do join lams with it without problems so evidently it's not a problem once cured.
Quote from: Longcruise on June 25, 2026, 05:37:31 PMQuote from: Kirkll on June 24, 2026, 12:50:12 PMI don't know whether you have experienced this yet, but you do NOT ever use super glue and wet epoxy at the same time. Things start smoking... :o :o :o Yup... serious fire hazard. chemical reaction between the two is intense.
Years ago i tried using a spot of super glue on the end of a power lam i was running up the belly ramps of a riser block on a one piece to keep it from sliding around during lay up and mixed the two glues together. :o :o :o It was scary! :scared: :scared:
Glad to know that! I contemplated doing that during a lay but didn't.
OTOH, I do join lams with it without problems so evidently it's not a problem once cured.
Ive done the same with the bamboo to make longer for one pieces. But like you said, it is always cured. I kinda wanna try a couple drops just to see. Ya I'm that guy. Borderline Darwin Awards!!
Rough shaping pretty much done. Need to make belly of top limb pad match bottom a little better. But no break throughs to g10 after phenolic is on limb pads you will never know it has g10 in it. Some finish sanding then hit it with shellac and final sand. Then onto the limbs. I think this experiment was a success. Is it worth the extra steps to hide it from the belly side??? I guess some would say yes, others no. It is good to know that I can if I want too.
I ended up ordering the solarez, now have to wait a week. Hopefully the stuff is worth it.