Some of you guys don't use tape on the fiberglass during glue-up. I usually do but this last time I tried it with out. I think I'm a fan if I can figure out how to remove baked on ea-40 from the limb faces. How do ya'll do it? By sanding? To explain further I'm talking about after I unwrap the bow out of the form there is small areas where there is a film of epoxy that sneaked under the bow and dried on the back and belly. Thanks
No worries... just sand it off with 120 grit.
I haven't cooked on masking tape in years. I just wipe the limbs down with lacquer thinner and remove the excess on the edges before wrapping it in plastic. Typically once you have your limbs profiled, there isn't any left on the face of the limb to sand off.
btw.... you do not need to exceed 50 pounds of pressure in your air hose system.
If your real carful you can use a sharp scaper to get glue off the slick side of glass. Have done it lots on overlay squeeze out.
Elmont said use 70 psi in the air hose.20+ years using 70 psi. Not saying less won't work.
Thanks guys. I'll just sand it off like you say kirk.
Quote from: Crooked Stic on April 18, 2026, 05:57:45 PMIf your real carful you can use a sharp scaper to get glue off the slick side of glass. Have done it lots on overlay squeeze out.
Elmont said use 70 psi in the air hose.20+ years using 70 psi. Not saying less won't work.
I've laid up limbs with 25# psi in my air hose before with zero problems... Granted the first limb wasn't intentional. I always put some lite pressure in the hose, and let it set about a minute, then bring it up to 50-60#. That day, my phone rang and i had the heat strips turned on after putting 25# in, and forgot about it.... So i did the second limb the same. No problem.
With that being said, I do have a couple RC forms with radical hooks that i use a little higher pressure and use shims on top of the hose to get the limb tips tight to the form. but the higher pressure isnt needed for the epoxy to bond. That's my point.
:bigsmyl:
You guys say that you don't tape your glass anymore because you don't like to have to peel it off because it's a pain in the BUTT. More than likely you're not using the correct tape. All masking tape is not let me say it again NOT created equal. The tape that I use, we used in the body shop it went through the Bake Oven. No problems taking it off I'm going to share this picture with you guys because all green tape from 3M is not the same. Here's the tape that you want to get. This will save you all the time and expense of buying lacquer thinner and having to scrub down your limbs afterwards. I don't have any problem feeling this particular masking tape off
I do buy my wife her own masking tape so she stays away from mine. Because it's extra special
I was using the green frog tape and it was peeling off nicely. But, the last roll i bought is a whole different creature. Very disappointing 😞
I'm going to get some of the 3M stuff you illustrated.
Edit: Not 3m, scotch
Oooooops,maybe not after seeing the price of that stuff :)
Quote from: Longcruise on April 23, 2026, 07:20:15 PMI was using the green frog tape and it was peeling off nicely. But, the last roll i bought is a whole different creature. Very disappointing 😞
I'm going to get some of the 3M stuff you illustrated.
Edit: Not 3m, scotch
correct. Scotch not 3m
The reason I don't use masking tape when I'm laying up limbs isn't just because it's not easy getting it off. I prefer bare glass because I spray paint my limb profile shape on the glass using a pattern. Then use my edge sander to shape it right to the paint lines and leave a line.
Trying to sand a limb with masking tape to a lay out line on it, it fuzzes up and you loose your line.
I buy my lacquer thinner in 5 gallon buckets. It's much cheaper than masking tape.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BYVpqZzLT12i3QSx6
Quote from: Kirkll on April 23, 2026, 11:05:08 PMThe reason I don't use masking tape when I'm laying up limbs isn't just because it's not easy getting it off. I prefer bare glass because I spray paint my limb profile shape on the glass using a pattern. Then use my edge sander to shape it right to the paint lines and leave a line.
To each their own I don't have a problem finding my line grinding it on my Edge sander. When it rolls up I take a nice sand it off with a block and sandpaper kind of like removing the burr from a knife
Trying to sand a limb with masking tape to a lay out line on it, it fuzzes up and you loose your line.
I buy my lacquer thinner in 5 gallon buckets. It's much cheaper than masking tape.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BYVpqZzLT12i3QSx6
Not using masking tape will work fine on a takedown limb. Not so much on a one piece bow.
Quote from: Crooked Stic on April 26, 2026, 05:24:50 PMNot using masking tape will work fine on a takedown limb. Not so much on a one piece bow.
Why is that? I don't use tape on mine....
I reckon your lucky not to get any glue on the glass. Just seems way less trouble to tape the glass than fighting trying to wipe the glass. Can't see what the big deal is if you tape glass or not. :deadhorse:
Well I've already explained why I don't use tape. but now that I think about it, the fact that I use heat strips instead of a hot box probably cooks the tape tape to the face of the glass at 160-180 degrees more so than 6 hours in a bow oven. But it's just a guess. I haven't used a hot box since about 2008. :bigsmyl:
I recently tried kirks way and I have glue all over the face of the limb. I guess I use too much ea40. I wont be doing it his way again. I use cheap blue tape and it isn't too bad to remove with a 1.5" chisel. I just run it under the tape as I am pulling. Big Jim told me about that trick, just don't let the corners of the chisel dig in. A 2" would be safer as the corners will be off the bow. I can untape a bow in 5 minutes. I am sticking with this way.
Quote from: Watsonjay on April 29, 2026, 06:57:01 PMI recently tried kirks way and I have glue all over the face of the limb. I guess I use too much ea40. I wont be doing it his way again. I use cheap blue tape and it isn't too bad to remove with a 1.5" chisel. I just run it under the tape as I am pulling. Big Jim told me about that trick, just don't let the corners of the chisel dig in. A 2" would be safer as the corners will be off the bow. I can untape a bow in 5 minutes. I am sticking with this way.
How are you applying your epoxy? And... are you warming up the epoxy before mixing it?
When I mix my epoxy, I put the resin in a paper cup, and the hardener on top, then I pop it in a microwave for 10-15 seconds depending on winter or summer. Then I use a paddle bit I ground the point off as a mixing paddle with a drill motor for about 60 seconds to get a consistent color and viscosity. This warmed epoxy lays down really thin with a putty knife, and I get it as thin as possible and butter both surfaces. All the excess on the sides gets wiped off with the putty knife, and the face of the glass easily cleans off with lacquer thinner.
Once you get this system down, it's not messy at all, and I rarely get epoxy on the limb face after putting it in the form.
I would NEVER use a chisel to peel tape off a finished limb. That's a scary idea there. Use a plastic putty knife if you want a safe tool. Even a metal putty knife would be safer than a chisel. :o :o :o
I have a mini hot box. I spoon out the resin and hardener into a paper bowl and throw it in the hot box while I tape and clean lams, veneers, and glass. I use a silicone bondo spreader cut in half. I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.
As far as the chisel. I was scared the first couple times but haven't had any problems.
Quote from: Kirkll on April 30, 2026, 10:55:38 AMThen I use a paddle bit I ground the point off as a mixing paddle with a drill motor for about 60 seconds to get a consistent color and viscosity.
I like this idea.
Quote from: Watsonjay on May 05, 2026, 10:40:30 PMI am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.
By far the easiest way to be consistent with your mixing ratios and overall amount of epoxy you mix is to weigh each part with a small scale. You get the correct amount of each every time and know exactly how much you mixed in total.
Mark
Quote from: mmattockx on May 06, 2026, 10:10:27 AMQuote from: Kirkll on April 30, 2026, 10:55:38 AMThen I use a paddle bit I ground the point off as a mixing paddle with a drill motor for about 60 seconds to get a consistent color and viscosity.
I like this idea.
Quote from: Watsonjay on May 05, 2026, 10:40:30 PMI am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.
By far the easiest way to be consistent with your mixing ratios and overall amount of epoxy you mix is to weigh each part with a small scale. You get the correct amount of each every time and know exactly how much you mixed in total.
Mark
The real question is how much of a difference does it make if you're not exactly 2 to 1 or 1-1. I bought reusable caulking tube like kirkl uses but haven't purchased the guns yet. Honestly unless im using clear glass I try to use 1-1 on clear 2-1 for a lighter tint.
Quote from: Watsonjay on May 06, 2026, 11:17:26 AMThe real question is how much of a difference does it make if you're not exactly 2 to 1 or 1-1. I bought reusable caulking tube like kirkl uses but haven't purchased the guns yet. Honestly unless im using clear glass I try to use 1-1 on clear 2-1 for a lighter tint.
The ratio is flexible enough that it mostly affects curing time and may slightly affect strength. In this case weighing the resin is more to reduce waste and be consistent in your batch sizes. If you do a bow with 100g of resin and there is lots left over, then you could cut down to 90g the next time, and so on. It simply standardizes the process.
Kirk's method with the caulking tubes is more than accurate enough with EA-40 for our uses.
Mark
i have had hard times too with dirty glass too after my glueups. I did rempve with scraper and sanding, which felt like total unneccesary pain. I had always used to use my super thin goto epoxy that I thickened with cotton fibres and the glue always creeped under the tape, no matter what type of tape I used. Now I bought a can of ea40 because my epoxy wasnt super clear under the glass. ....and I have no more problems with the glue creeping under the tape - and I have a clear glueline.
Quote from: Watsonjay on May 05, 2026, 10:40:30 PMI have a mini hot box. I spoon out the resin and hardener into a paper bowl and throw it in the hot box while I tape and clean lams, veneers, and glass. I use a silicone bondo spreader cut in half. I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.
Try a flexible putty knife some time. It lays it down real thin with very little pressure. The bondo spreader might be your problem. They make hard plastic putty knives too, but I prefer the metal ones because I can sand off any I forget to wipe off the putty knife on occasion. .02 cents worth.
Quote from: Kirkll on May 07, 2026, 10:52:36 AMQuote from: Watsonjay on May 05, 2026, 10:40:30 PMI have a mini hot box. I spoon out the resin and hardener into a paper bowl and throw it in the hot box while I tape and clean lams, veneers, and glass. I use a silicone bondo spreader cut in half. I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.
Try a flexible putty knife some time. It lays it down real thin with very little pressure. The bondo spreader might be your problem. They make hard plastic putty knives too, but I prefer the metal ones because I can sand off any I forget to wipe off the putty knife on occasion. .02 cents worth.
Thats why I like the spreader. I dont bother cleaning it, just let it dry in the paper bowl with the ea40. After it dries you just flex it and the ea40 pops right off and you use it again.
I tried watsons chisel trick. Super sharp chisel and light light pressure (hardly any) and the tape comes right off. The reason I used tape this time was on some carbon which I didn't want to have to sand at all to get glue off. Thanks for all the tips.
The tape that I mentioned comes off no problem after being in the hot box. This particular green tape specifically the number that is shown is what we use in the body shop when cars went into the paint booth/ bake booth. This green tape is not the same as the other green tapes look at the numbers that I showed in my pictures. And you won't have any problem. Just keep everybody away from your tape so they don't waste it. I leave it on when I lay out my bow with a pattern grind on my Edge sander strike off the fuzzies until I reach my laid out pen marks.