Hey folks,
I built a paper tuner to be able to use in the basement. Was flinging some arrows the past few days & I'm getting a tail right kick out of my recurve. It isn't terrible, but I noticed if my form wasn't exactly the same, my arrows would fly a little bit goofy.
I'm shooting one of the white Hoyt Super rests that's fixed directly to the side plate on my Wessel recurve.
I have all kinds of arrows & broadheads, just can't justify trading all of them out for new ones.
I should be able to build out the side plate a bit to get my current arrows/heads tuned perfectly, I'm just not exactly sure how to do that (I'd like to continue shooting the rest, helps with my sometimes plucky release).
My concern is that if I build out the side plate using leather/furniture pad etc, how am I going to get the rest to stick to the side plate.
I'm all ears if someone has any recommendations. I have plenty of time until my next hunt, but being able to verify consistently w/paper that I'm not 100% tuned has got me determined to get the flight corrected!
So many potential variables. Bare-shaft or fletched? Could be that your a grunt too stiff. Maybe in your release? If you build the plate out, I have used thin leather and Barge contact. I am sure others will have some useful tips and information. Blessings.
I was shooting fletched shafts, I don't put a ton of stock into bareshaft tuning my stickbows honestly, I'm not near consistent enough to be able to justify it.
I also tried a 500 spine, with my 200 grain points I had a wicked left paper tear, talking like 7-8" at only 6 feet or so.
I put a 300 gr point up front & that gave me a significantly better tear, at that point I'd be pushing 700 grains which is just too heavy & unnecessary.
You might try 3M double sided mounting tape. It mostly comes in at around 1mm thick. It would give you the ability to try different thickness combinations. :campfire:
Turns out my string was way out of wack, brace height was clear down to just over 6 inches.
Not sure how that happened, but got the bh back up to 8 or a little over.
Going to play around some more, but now there's just a slight 1" or less right tear. Plenty good enough for my shooting ability :biglaugh:
👍
Well now idk what to do.
Arrows seem to be flying well for the most part. Paper tune is good.
The brace height to get that is 8.5", and Brian recommends 7.25-7.5
I shoot a Hoyt super rest (bad release & that helps)...
How do I build out the strike plate & then attach the rest to it?
I have used rubber cement as a temporary adhesive and tried things like thin leather strips, paper match shafts, or sections of cable tie under the leather pad. When it all works I remove the rubber cement and glue them down with Duco. But I don't use a rest other than the leather pad on the riser and a bit of seal fur on the shelf.
As folks have suggested, double sided tape or contact cement. There's a possibility that you may be misinterpreting your paper cuts though. If you're shooting at close range with fingers, the arrow is still flexing when it hits paper. It's almost impossible to get a hole without a tear at close range.
You say you don't rely much on bare shaft tuning, but paper tuning is essentially the same practice, it's just another tool to show you what your arrow is actually doing.
If you say the paper tune is good why are you still trying to build out the strike plate? I've used mole skin under bear weatherest in the past and the weather rest would stick just fine to the mole skin. Then I'd cover the entire area with mole skin. I'll try to post a pic.
Once again if your paper tune is decent, then go outside with broadheads on those arrows and shoot about 20 yards and see what's going on. Then report back.
Here's how I like to use an elevated rest
Quote from: Iowabowhunter on February 05, 2026, 06:22:10 PMWell now idk what to do.
Arrows seem to be flying well for the most part. Paper tune is good.
The brace height to get that is 8.5", and Brian recommends 7.25-7.5
I shoot a Hoyt super rest (bad release & that helps)...
How do I build out the strike plate & then attach the rest to it?
You could drill the strike plate and insert a burger button bushing. ( look at ILF risers) There are a number of different rest types available that are adjustable. A springy rest is one of them.
Quote from: buckeyebowhunter on February 07, 2026, 10:35:01 PMYou say you don't rely much on bare shaft tuning, but paper tuning is essentially the same practice, it's just another tool to show you what your arrow is actually doing.
If you say the paper tune is good why are you still trying to build out the strike plate? I've used mole skin under bear weatherest in the past and the weather rest would stick just fine to the mole skin. Then I'd cover the entire area with mole skin. I'll try to post a pic.
Once again if your paper tune is decent, then go outside with broadheads on those arrows and shoot about 20 yards and see what's going on. Then report back.
I guess I'm concerned that my brace height is a full inch longer than what the bowyer recommends (to get good paper tune) + my arrows are consistently hitting to the right of my point of aim
I wouldn't worry about the brace so much if it's performing okay at that BH. Hitting to the right would indicate a weak spine. I would say 300 up front is lot. But that's just me. BH isn't going to really effect the spine on a macro level, BH in my opinion is just finding where the bow performs the best (usually by the sound) and feel of it in your hand. Bows behave aggressively when their brace height isn't set appropriately.
Have you ever tried a bear weather rest ? I found them very reliable and forgiving of my many release issues over the years. I tried many brands but found this one best for me if I wasn't shooting off the shelf. It was also the quietest.
I use the loop side of Velcro for strike plate. I can push it out if needed with double sided tape.
FWIW, I tune with a bare shaft that I have wrapped the fletching area with tape wraps that match the weight of the fletching.
But it will require good form or you get inconsistent results.
I start at 10 yards and move back to 25 yards as I adjust.
Back to your original question. Looks to me you could just peel back the existing side plate half way and install a small piece of leather directly behind the arrow rest arm base. Then, press the pad back into place. If it doesn't stick, use a little contact cement.