On a Flemish twist string, do you do back twists before you start making the second loop? Is it necessary?
If it is truly better, how do you know which direction to twist the individual bundles? And how many back twists do you need?
Thanks for any tips and advice. - Chad
You need back twists if you want it to blend well. Put the back twists in each bundle before starting the second loop. The easiest way for me to do it is to pay attention to which way I untwist and straighten the bundles after finishing the first loop, then put the back twists in the same direction.
Build them the same way each time and keep good notes. Material, type and color, bundle length and strand count, # of twists in the loops, length of the fade outs, padding if you use it, # of back twists, stretched finished length, etc...
I recommend the video "how to build a great bowstring". I bought it years ago and it shortened the learning curve quite a bit for me.
I agree with Artic Hunter.
You don't need to put in back twists. I made strings for years before I ever heard of back twists. They all worked fine.
However, the string looks better with backtwists, and now that I know about backtwists, I wouldn't make a string without them. Without backtwists, a string looks like two separate bundles twisted together (the term is cabling). With backtwists, as Artic said, it looks more blended together.
The idea is to put in the same number of backtwists as the twists you will add when you make the second string loop, so that there will be no twists in the body of the final string. But that's a little hard to figure out, and really not critical. I just untwist the twists in each bundle after making the first loop, and put in 10 more backtwists in the same direction as I was untwisting.
Agree with what was said above. For me it's 15-20 back twists.
The great thing about building your own string if it come out right you can untwist it start over, it looks harder than it is, like Arctic Hunter said "how to build a great bowstring is a great video to learn from also some great how to on YouTube.
Really appreciate all your help and advice. I'm going to make one now, with back twists, while this is all fresh on my mind. Thanks everyone!!
Chad
Kramer Amonns has a good video on YouTube for string building. Shatterproof archery. It's nothing special but direct and to the point.
Quote from: Jegs.mich on November 09, 2025, 05:03:45 PMKramer Amonns has a good video on YouTube for string building. Shatterproof archery. It's nothing special but direct and to the point.
My strings are looking better with back twists.
Watching Kramer's videos is also helping me get the string lengths right. Knowing how long of bundles to start with so they come out the right length so I do not need to twist the finished string too much to shorten it. Shooting for one twist every 3/4 to 1 inch on the finished string.
Thanks for the suggestions!
McDave said, "The idea is to put in the same number of backtwists as the twists you will add when you make the second string loop, so that there will be no twists in the body of the final string. But that's a little hard to figure out, and really not critical. I just untwist the twists in each bundle after making the first loop, and put in 10 more backtwists in the same direction as I was untwisting."
That's exactly what I do. Works for me.
Not sure how to figure out the perfect way, but if you put in too many, I thought it was obviously wonky. Easy enough to separate and start over. 20 seems to work good for me. Another vote for Kramer Ammons video.
Yep, ya really gotta factor in some back twists for a twin loop Flemish.
MUCH easier and quicker to build a single loop Flemish and do a bowyers knot .... or better yet a tsuru knot for added hold with HMPE strings ...
Just a thought but if a fella was to keep a count of how many twists he puts in the string while building the first loop I'd bet money it will be a pretty good number to use for how many back twists are needed on the second loop. Makes sense to me.
I always struggled with getting the length right, so as Rob mentioned, I would remove the existing twists, and use the bowyers knot at the other end.
I eventually found Clay Hayes video showing his method and never looked back. For those who haven't seen it, he removes all of the twists after making the first loop, basically making the string straight again. Then goes to the other end to and add twists there, measuring the string length and weave it back into the main line to make and secure the second loop. It solved my issues works great for me. Check out the video on YouTube.
I twist backwards before beginning the second loop. I count about 20+, while rolling a bundle backwards, but it's probably not a full twist or an accurate count. The finished string is usually really round. I'm fussy about the roundness and the length both. Can't stand an ugly string, on one with too many twists or bundles that don't blend. The differences in length from one custom bow to the next makes string lengths hard to guess sometimes.
I don't make as many as I used to, they seem to last forever.
Years ago I was using some 8125 or something like that and had two strings tear at the loop. At the time I figured it was just how strings wear out. So I replaced them regularly, like every 6 months or so depending. I got away from that and let them on much longer with zero issues. Thinking back, I wonder if I had a bow the was just hard on string loops when those tore?
Tedd
One of my first bows did that. I remember writing in to TradGang about 20 years ago asking for advice, and being told to round off the edges of the string nock where it was too sharp and was fraying the string. I was afraid to touch anything at that point in time, so I just put up with replacing the strings, like you did. Eventually I decided that the draw weight on that bow was too heavy, and sold it. End of problem. Haven't had it happen since.