Thinking about ordering a set of the autumn oranges from 3rivers. I'm shooting a custom r/d style longbow that is was given as a gift along with a few gold tip arrows. They seem to fly pretty good. As my draw length was about the same as the previous owner. Bow is 52 at 28. Thinking about the 2016s. What's everyone's opinion on this?
If it were me I'd go with 2018's instead. Same diameter, thicker wall so tougher and only a few pounds more in stiffness and a little more room to play with different point weights.
3River is one of are sponsor and the have autumn oranges test kits.
Depending on how long and what point weight you want, I run 2016 29" with 180gr point out of my 41.Lbs R&D Longbow my bare shaft flys perfect.
What spine are the carbons? If 500 spine according to newer Easton chart 2016 is equal. But, a lot can depend on shaft length and point weight. Is the bow cut to center? If it was me wanting to use a 175 grain head and cut to 29" I would also go with the 2018's. Another consideration is total arrow weight. It's harder to add weight to inserts unless you can find threaded through inserts common with carbons.
In reference to finding threaded aluminum inserts for adding weight....one of the best thing's I have discovered in recent years is a threaded 8/32 tap (about $10) for adding the rear threads (for weights) on aluminum RPS inserts. Instead of searching the intenet for them...I just make them now.
In regard to the question about spine, its hard to say. If the bow is well center cut I suggest the 2018. If not the 2016. Keep in mind the 2018's are over 12 GPI so they are pretty heavy.
Depending how long you like your arrows, and how much you like them to weigh, probably going to need something just a little stiffer.
Quote from: TI_Bowmen on August 12, 2025, 08:45:47 AMThinking about ordering a set of the autumn oranges from 3rivers. I'm shooting a custom r/d style longbow that is was given as a gift along with a few gold tip arrows. They seem to fly pretty good. As my draw length was about the same as the previous owner. Bow is 52 at 28. Thinking about the 2016s. What's everyone's opinion on this?
I've had difficulty in tuning with the Aluminum's, but stuck with it. My setup is close to yours . I'm shooting 45#@28" and using the 2016 Autumn oranges cut to 29" and a 200 gr tip. I'm shooting a BW PLX.
They fly good now. Hope this helps out.
FWIW I have a dozen of those 3Rivers Autumn Orange in 1916. I draw 27 3/4", cut to 28" with 175 gr points they shoot great from 3 different bows. A 62" Browning Explorer II @41#. 64"1956 Root Gamemaster @44# and 50# Bear Montana longbow. That arrow configuration has a static spine of 46.5# and an FOC of 16.9 and weighs 470 grains. Drop the point weight to 150gr ad static spine is 51.6 with an FOC of 15.1 and they shoot perfect from my 54# Ozark Mtn Longbow. Good form and a clean release /follow through solves a lot of tuning problems. Not recommending either arrow, just giving info from my experience.
Try to find a test kit or order a single or two of each. Maybe your local club has some laying around as well.
Whenever you start getting close, I've found that finding the "seam" on the shaft helps with continuity across the quiver (nock tuning). I align mine away from the riser. Currently in some 2117s for a 53# recurve. They fly incredibly well with 220 up front. 640 TAW. Absolute hammers.
Aluminums are just a joy to work with. A pipe cutter and some hot melt is all you really need. When fletching, I use a sanding sponge to rough up the area, denatured alcohol, Gorilla blue top, and don't have any trouble getting feathers to stick. If you want to skip that you can throw some wraps on them. I'm using some onestringer wraps this year.
How do you find the "seam"?
Quote from: Wheels2 on August 29, 2025, 07:00:37 AMHow do you find the "seam"?
You can see it on the shaft...
2016 camo hunters a friend gave me cut to 29.75 with 150 up front overall seems like it's flying decent to me. Never shot aluminums before. I like em!
been shooting aluminums since the 60's. Never heard of a "seam".
I'm pretty sure that Aluminum arrow shafts are extruded, not seamed.
The coating on an aluminum arrow can sometimes create a visual effect that resembles a seam. However, this is typically a design choice rather than an actual seam in the structure of the arrow.
I stand corrected. I was told wrong...
Quote from: Kelly on August 12, 2025, 10:45:55 AMIf it were me I'd go with 2018's instead. Same diameter, thicker wall so tougher and only a few pounds more in stiffness and a little more room to play with different point weights.
x2
I think 2016 would be a little weak for that setup. Or if you could make it work, you'd probably be limited to light broadheads.
Easton has a video on YouTube showing how they make them. They are, in fact, welded. Quite interesting. The only thing you see is the dot on the insert end. As far as indexing the shaft, there's no need. One of the nice things about aluminum. If it makes you feel better or more confident though, go for it.