New to trad, only 3 yrs now but am looking forward to hunting season again. Readying all my stuff I started retuning each bow. Been practice shooting a while and stick with 15-17 yds.
Have several bows, a 55" Necedah at 40#-, a Browning Nomad (52") 40# and a Wing Redwing Hunter 58" 41# + all these are at 28" draw and I draw 28.5"
The eye opener is the Nededah and the Browning Nomad. Both excellent shooters.
Necedah tunes with a carbon 500 at 28 5/8" with 225 up front. Darts
The Browning Nomad with a carbon 600 at 28 3/4" with 275 up front. Could use some tweaking but it's close. I doubt I'll ever be perfect with bareshaft.
I'm lost on how the Necedah shoots a 500 spine and the Browning shoots a 600? The Wing? carbon 500 full length (30") with 300 up front. Darts
Could be due in part to differences in arrow shelf depth. The closer to or past center they're cut, the higher the spine needed. If the Wing shoots a 500 with 300 up front, it will also shoot a 600 with less weight up front. If your draw is 28 1/2, you're going to draw the broadhead into your bow hand when you put broadheads on the 28 5/8-28 3/4-inch arrows.
Those shaft lengths are carbon to carbon, add another 1/2" or so for nock. That's a good point about the shelf cut, I overlooked that.
Just an FYI for the future. Arrow length is measured from the valley of the nock to the base of the point (BOP). Since arrow length is an essential part of tuning, people will not give you accurate feedback if you measure it any other way.
Something that has always confused me is how to measure arrow length with an insert/outsert. For purposes of drawing the bow, you can draw the insert/outsert right up onto the arrow rest with no problems, but it doesn't bend, so shouldn't be counted as length for tuning purposes. So when I'm discussing length with someone for purposes of tuning, I just measure to the base of the insert/outsert, but for my own purposes, I know I can "cheat" if I want a stiffer arrow and can cut the shaft a little shorter than my actual draw length.
Quote from: McDave on Today at 08:49:26 AMJust an FYI for the future. Arrow length is measured from the valley of the nock to the base of the point (BOP). Since arrow length is an essential part of tuning, people will not give you accurate feedback if you measure it any other way.
I get that. I've seen arrow length stated as CTC for spine reference when cut. The nock length does not effect spine does it?
The reason that part of the length of the nock, from the valley of the nock to the part that touches the arrow shaft, is included in arrow length is because we want there to be an equivalence between arrow length and draw length. In other words, if an arrow cut to 28" is drawn to full draw by someone whose draw length is 28", the BOP of that arrow will be even with the back of the bow (or the pivot point + 1 3/4" if we want to be more precise about it).
Actually, the part of the arrow nock outside the shaft, and the part of the shaft containing the arrow nock doesn't bend significantly, and the same can be said for the part of the shaft that contains the point insert, but since the static spine of a shaft is based a section of shaft that doesn't contain a nock or a point insert, that really doesn't matter.
The overall length of a shaft does effect dynamic spine, and the only length that should be considered is the working length, i.e, the part that bends. Since dynamic spine is difficult to quantify, the parts of the arrow length that are not part of the "working" length are generally ignored, which I'm sure causes some errors and head scratching, at times.
OK, so my OAL arrow length is 29 1/4". Nock to arrow insert (100 gr gold tip bronze insert). I do understand the need to bareshaft, or whatever form of tuning one uses. It's really not a surprise to me the difference in bows and what they'll shoot, sort of like hand loading for rifles. You just never know what's gonna be the ideal projectile until you shoot some. I am enjoying this and have a grand son about to start.
Coincidentally, I just ordered a half dozen of the GT 100g. bronze inserts to try out. Do they fit okay, not too tight, not too loose? Any comments about them?
One comment I'll make is that I don't expect that they will significantly weaken the dynamic spine of the shaft. You're taking away the length of the insert from the part of the shaft that bends, which looks longer than the normal GT insert, and offsetting that against 100 g. more weight up front. I guessing (hoping really) that the net of the two won't decrease dynamic spine that much, because I really would like to increase my FOC without weakening the spine of the shaft much, since it is already pretty well tuned.