I'm looking for threaded insert that have a 3/8 neck on them that fits into the limb. I originally bought them from old master crafters. When they closed I found them through another individual that I can't seem to find anymore. Would anyone know where I could order these inserts cause I'm down to my last pair? The drilling jig I purchased through old masters crafters is setup for these inserts and drilling the 3/8" hole in the limb.
There was a fellow selling those jigs and inserts , went by email of sandlot or sandbox something, but he sold out also.
I "think" Bob Sarrels was using that system but no idea where he got the inserts.
You could probably have a shop turn some, but I'd bet it would be costly...
Good luck !!
Yeah that's the guy sandlot. I tried to get ahold of him but no luck. Tried to get some made but that's been a struggle also
Are there any pictures of these inserts? Dimensions would be helpful as well.
Mark
Threaded part is 7/8 " long with a 3/8" neck height and diameter
Off of old master crafters old Facebook page
Both right hand threads? What is overall length? Material? What did they sell for previously?
There are a fair number of online machine shop type services that could produce these based on a drawing or solid model, have you looked into any of them?
Mark
I haven't priced anything online. They were stainless steel. I'd have to measure them to be exact but I think they are 1-1/8"long. Outside threads are 7/8 I'm sure of that. Neck is 1/4" to 3/8" long
Quote from: BrushWolf on June 25, 2025, 01:06:22 PMI haven't priced anything online. They were stainless steel. I'd have to measure them to be exact but I think they are 1-1/8"long. Outside threads are 7/8 I'm sure of that. Neck is 1/4" to 3/8" long
Do you have any pictures of one installed? How many of these do people go through? Really, the question is how big should production batches be? 50? 100? 500? It's hard to get decent pricing without larger orders, so that needs to be maximized within practicality.
Mark
Do you have someone or someone place that could do the work?
Quote from: BrushWolf on June 26, 2025, 11:04:57 AMDo you have someone or someone place that could do the work?
There are many machine shops that can do that work. Cost is the only issue and would need to be shopped around for. I have one semi-local guy that I would try first, I'm just trying to get an idea of the size of an order so I know approximately how big that order should be. Lots of places have a minimum order size and that often dictates how many parts are made per batch for small stuff like this, but if the minimum is way too big then it isn't worth it.
What did they sell for previously?
Mark
I can make a handful for you if you give me good dimensions and aren't in a hurry
Yeah let me get something drawn up and see what you think
Quote from: BrushWolf on June 25, 2025, 01:06:22 PMI haven't priced anything online. They were stainless steel. I'd have to measure them to be exact but I think they are 1-1/8"long. Outside threads are 7/8 I'm sure of that. Neck is 1/4" to 3/8" long
The outside is 7/8" ? Standard inserts are 1/2"-13 thread with 5/16"-18 inside. T
You would much be better off going to a 2 location pin system and just use standard inserts, and over size the bolt hole on your limbs. The inconsistency in the inserts themselves, plus the tap drift in different riser materials is going to give you inconsistent results centering your limb bolt precisely. That's a bit more than 2 cents worth there. Give it some thought. Kirk
Quote from: Kirkll on July 03, 2025, 08:57:37 AMThe outside is 7/8" ?
The outside threads are 7/8" long. You are correct on the 1/2-13 size.
Mark
Maybe an option if you are Handy. Buy some dog end set screws and drill and tap the center yourself. I think this price is for a hundred count.
I'm afraid those would be hardened to the point it would be extremely difficult to drill and tap them.
I just made a CAD model and uploaded it to a prototyping service we use. Even getting these made in China, they'd cost ~$15ea for 50 of them out of stainless steel; probably a bit more than you'd want to pay. If you get me some dimensions, I can probably make a few on our lathe out of some low grade stainless 1/2" bolts, but it may be a while until I can get to it...
Quote from: Camp Creek on June 27, 2025, 06:45:42 PMI can make a handful for you if you give me good dimensions and aren't in a hurry
Been waiting on some pricing from machine shops. For what they want it's cheaper to buy my own lathe. :o
If you'd still be interested the neck is 1/4" above the last thread and is .375 in diameter. Overall length is 1.127" let me know what you have in mind. Thanks
Quote from: Kirkll on July 03, 2025, 08:57:37 AMQuote from: BrushWolf on June 25, 2025, 01:06:22 PMI haven't priced anything online. They were stainless steel. I'd have to measure them to be exact but I think they are 1-1/8"long. Outside threads are 7/8 I'm sure of that. Neck is 1/4" to 3/8" long
The outside is 7/8" ? Standard inserts are 1/2"-13 thread with 5/16"-18 inside. T
You would much be better off going to a 2 location pin system and just use standard inserts, and over size the bolt hole on your limbs. The inconsistency in the inserts themselves, plus the tap drift in different riser materials is going to give you inconsistent results centering your limb bolt precisely. That's a bit more than 2 cents worth there. Give it some thought. Kirk
I did the two pin system years before I started using the drilling jig and inserts I got thru old master crafters
I always seemed to struggle with that. The inserts I've been trying to get more of just gave me better results. But the option to go back to a two pin is always open. I might just have to do something different from now on.
Well you certainly don't need to have these machined from stainless steel if you are determined to use this system. Even if you hunt in the rain a lot they are not going to rust out on you using regular steel. Nothing a little steel wool won't take care of now and then...... good luck...
Quote from: Kirkll on July 09, 2025, 11:11:04 AMWell you certainly don't need to have these machined from stainless steel if you are determined to use this system. Even if you hunt in the rain a lot they are not going to rust out on you using regular steel. Nothing a little steel wool won't take care of now and then...... good luck...
I definitely wouldn't need them from stainless steel. I actually priced them made outta carbon steel and
they were still pricey. Got a handful of bows that I want to build. Mainly for the kids and I just like to keep everything the same as I'm use to. Been a long time since I've built much
Is this what you need? How many?
Quote from: Camp Creek on July 10, 2025, 09:05:40 AMIs this what you need? How many?
One suggestion. For the OD threads, call out a chamfer on both ends to get rid of the sharp thread start.
Mark
Quote from: mmattockx on July 10, 2025, 10:22:15 AMQuote from: Camp Creek on July 10, 2025, 09:05:40 AMIs this what you need? How many?
One suggestion. For the OD threads, call out a chamfer on both ends to get rid of the sharp thread start.
Mark
Looks good. A little chamfer wouldn't hurt but I can do that before they are installed
Quote from: BrushWolf on July 10, 2025, 07:14:58 PMQuote from: mmattockx on July 10, 2025, 10:22:15 AMQuote from: Camp Creek on July 10, 2025, 09:05:40 AMIs this what you need? How many?
One suggestion. For the OD threads, call out a chamfer on both ends to get rid of the sharp thread start.
Mark
Looks good. A little chamfer wouldn't hurt but I can do that before they are installed
Pm sent
Stainless dog point set screws drilled and tapped.
I really don't think it's that important that these be made from stainless steel. I would think a local machine shop could turn out a bunch of these on a lathe at a decent price if you were not dead set on stainless steel. It's not like you have to worry about rust if you keep the bolts oiled, and use a bit of steel wool on the studs now and then, regular steel should be fine.
Good luck to you on this... Kirk
Quote from: Kirkll on September 07, 2025, 08:56:28 PMI really don't think it's that important that these be made from stainless steel. I would think a local machine shop could turn out a bunch of these on a lathe at a decent price if you were not dead set on stainless steel. It's not like you have to worry about rust if you keep the bolts oiled, and use a bit of steel wool on the studs now and then, regular steel should be fine.
Good luck to you on this... Kirk
Kirk I'm sure you are right they don't need to be made out of stainless. I wouldn't have a machine shop quote these unless you are buying a lot of them. The reason I chose the stainless dog points is that they drill and tap alot easier than other materials. This thread is the only reason I wanted to try. My 2 cents good luck.
Years ago I used to use the limb bolt as one point of my limb alignment, and only use one location pin. But.... I was mounting the limbs with the limb bolt only, aligning the limbs, then drilling though the limb for my alignment pin hole and using an overlay to cover it. It worked great for a one off one and done bow..... but... if you wanted to build extra limbs, or missed poundage, you were screwed. Even after gettin* a precision vertical mill set up I had issues with +or- tolerances on threaded inserts themselves, and tap drift throwing the alignment off.
I finally gave up on that method and went to 2 location pins on the riser, a standard insert, and an oversized bolt hole on the limbs. Even then I get limbs that are slightly off now and then, and need to adjust when profiling the limb using a straight edge for center line.
I wish you guys good luck using single alignment pins.... Kirk
Quote from: Kirkll on September 16, 2025, 07:36:16 PMYears ago I used to use the limb bolt as one point of my limb alignment, and only use one location pin. But.... I was mounting the limbs with the limb bolt only, aligning the limbs, then drilling though the limb for my alignment pin hole and using an overlay to cover it. It worked great for a one off one and done bow..... but... if you wanted to build extra limbs, or missed poundage, you were screwed. Even after gettin* a precision vertical mill set up I had issues with +or- tolerances on threaded inserts themselves, and tap drift throwing the alignment off.
I finally gave up on that method and went to 2 location pins on the riser, a standard insert, and an oversized bolt hole on the limbs. Even then I get limbs that are slightly off now and then, and need to adjust when profiling the limb using a straight edge for center line.
I wish you guys good luck using single alignment pins.... Kirk
I can see what you're saying. I had issues years ago with a 2 pin system. I never oversized the bolt hole though. How much are you over boring it for a 5/16 bolt? Since I went with the old master crafters system years ago I have had good luck with it. I've built multiple limbs for a single riser with it and never had any major issues. Really liked the system but will probably have to go with something more readily available.
Quote from: Jegs.mich on September 07, 2025, 03:41:16 PMStainless dog point set screws drilled and tapped.
That looks promising
Quote from: BrushWolf on September 17, 2025, 09:48:45 AMQuote from: Kirkll on September 16, 2025, 07:36:16 PMYears ago I used to use the limb bolt as one point of my limb alignment, and only use one location pin. But.... I was mounting the limbs with the limb bolt only, aligning the limbs, then drilling though the limb for my alignment pin hole and using an overlay to cover it. It worked great for a one off one and done bow..... but... if you wanted to build extra limbs, or missed poundage, you were screwed. Even after gettin* a precision vertical mill set up I had issues with +or- tolerances on threaded inserts themselves, and tap drift throwing the alignment off.
I finally gave up on that method and went to 2 location pins on the riser, a standard insert, and an oversized bolt hole on the limbs. Even then I get limbs that are slightly off now and then, and need to adjust when profiling the limb using a straight edge for center line.
I wish you guys good luck using single alignment pins.... Kirk
I can see what you're saying. I had issues years ago with a 2 pin system. I never oversized the bolt hole though. How much are you over boring it for a 5/16 bolt? Since I went with the old master crafters system years ago I have had good luck with it. I've built multiple limbs for a single riser with it and never had any major issues. Really liked the system but will probably have to go with something more readily available.
You could bore the limbs 3/8" if you want using a two pin system, but I think my holes are 11/32. I go 1/2" above the bolt, and 2" below for location pins.
Years ago I had a machinist mill up some lateral adjustment hardware for using only one location pin that worked excellent for the bowyer....The problem I had was customers messing with it and causing limb twist issues down the road. I had to use those safety one way screws to keep customers from messing with it. It requires mortising the limb pad much like an ILF riser for the hardware using a router or milling machine. But it doesn't have lateral adjustment set screws like the ILF rigs do. I still have a bunch of that hardware too.
But after getting set up with a milling machine, I quit using the one location pin system completely and haven't used that hardware in years. Kirk