Hello,
I'm considering using 5/16" ferruled Eskilites on the 11/32 woodies I'm building. And of course, the ferrule can only go so far and leaves some of the taper exposed.
I could fire-harden the shaft, or/and, use a penetrating epoxy on the taper, letting it dry, before mounting the broadhead?
What do y'all think and please don't tell me to get other broadheads; please just comment on this, or suggest a better way to do the same thing.
Thanks!
Ken
I don't think it's a problem at all.
You could get some wood hardener and paint the taper just to keep the wood from splintering.
Not a problem. The only issue is the bare wood behind the point taking on moisture, which will run up the shaft and ruin whatever finish you have on the arrow from the inside. Just put a little varnish, lacquer, whatever finish you use, on the bare wood after you've mounted the heads.
Agree. No problem. Just make sure you have plenty of taper to get near to the tip inside. You'll know when you spin test it if you were off-center.
I am with everyone no problem, same thing happens when you put 11/32 broadhead on 23/64 shaft.
Im a little late to the show on this. But you can easily shoulder the taper to allow a 5/16 point to fit.
You wont regret a shouldered taper regardless of what head you use on any woody as long as it corresponds to the head diameter.
Want a head to spin true. This is it!!!
A John Dodge secret revealed.
Could you describe a shouldered taper, or provide a picture? It's new to me, after decades of tapering shafts.
I don't know where you get you shafts from, you might ask them if they can barrel taper your shafts next time.