Post by: chefrvitale on March 16, 2025, 11:02:01 PM
I poured some CA glue in it and tomorrow I plan doing something else to help reinforce. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, thanks for the help.
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 17, 2025, 06:16:27 PM
Post by: kennym on March 17, 2025, 07:35:06 PM
About all you can do is fill it with CA and hope IMO
Post by: Kirkll on March 17, 2025, 09:18:11 PM
I'll echo Kenny's response. I would use water thin super glue first and let it soak deep into the crack a couple times until it wont take any more. then put the string on the bow and let it set overnight at 60+ degrees. Bring it in the house and keep it warm over night and keep it strung up. Hopefully that will do the trick....
Stic mentioned a radius transition from shelf to strike plate. That's very important. Sharp corners have a lot more tendency to split.
There are a number of ways to accomplish this. i cut my shelf depth a bit shallow, then use my palm sander with 80 grit to sand the radius into the strike plate. Or you can do it with a round rasp and a chain saw fie too if you like. .02 cents worth Kirk
Post by: Kirkll on March 17, 2025, 09:24:07 PM
The farther you bring that shelf back over your hand, the more likely you are to have issues like this with softer hardwoods. Kirk
Post by: garyschuler on March 17, 2025, 10:56:53 PM
Just an analogy.
Post by: chefrvitale on March 18, 2025, 12:37:55 AM
The wood that cracked is black and white ebony,it's usually pretty tough. Thanks for the advice on shaping the strike plate radius. I typically do put a slight radius after I rough tiller, but I always thought it was strictly to help arrow flight. I had no idea it would help prevent a crack like this...... live and learn. It's a brand new design and form, kenny just mailed me my hardware for the form. I shoot heavy, this bow will be 70#s and i took the shelf back further than my other bows..... I'm sure that didn't help things. It's soaked in CA, tomorrow morning I'm going to cut across the crack on my band saw and tap in a shim of rosewood covered in EA40. Between the two I think it will hold.
Post by: Smguinnip on March 18, 2025, 07:11:21 AM
Post by: jess stuart on March 18, 2025, 10:10:20 AM
Post by: chefrvitale on March 18, 2025, 08:29:41 PM
I'm going to string it and hope.
Post by: chefrvitale on March 18, 2025, 09:04:51 PM
Post by: jess stuart on March 18, 2025, 10:36:55 PM
Post by: chefrvitale on March 18, 2025, 10:42:22 PM
This is my first bow out of this form.
Post by: jess stuart on March 18, 2025, 10:53:31 PM
Post by: OldRawhide42 on March 19, 2025, 08:21:41 AM
Post by: Kirkll on March 19, 2025, 10:08:05 AM
I think you are correct. That will be my game plan when I'm finished whining about it........ you guys think it was a bad piece of wood or my design?
This is my first bow out of this form.
I don’t see anything wrong with the riser design. Most likely a deep check in the wood that went unnoticed during the build.
The thing that would concern me at this point is that you said after it popped the second time, the limbs twisted to the left…
Looking at that footed riser, I find it hard to believe that riser itself has twisted. But what ever your plan of attack is, I think I’d check my form out real close for twist before I do anything. You are going to need to put it back in the form to keep the limbs straight while strategically rebuilding the riser from the inside out. That’s going to be a tough one to pull off successfully.
But you can always cut the limbs off and build a TD bow out of it. I’ve done a few of those years ago after a riser fail that couldn’t be repaired. Good luck. Kirk
What kind of draw weight are you working with here?
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 19, 2025, 11:57:17 AM
Post by: Mad Max on March 19, 2025, 01:47:38 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/6VbOlkH.jpg)
Post by: bownarra on March 23, 2025, 02:02:43 AM
Black and white is a pain in the ass.....I bet it wasn't fully dry. No I-beam and a huge stress riser...
Chances are it won't move more but to find out get it warm for a few hours.....
Never cut corners as sooner or later it will bite you in the ass....
I-Beam I-Beam I-Beam
Post by: chefrvitale on March 23, 2025, 09:50:02 AM
Post by: garyschuler on March 23, 2025, 11:42:13 AM
Post by: Kirkll on March 23, 2025, 08:24:52 PM
You are right, I didn't want to see the beam so I didn't do it. That one extra step cost me bow..... kicking myself, I had even cut 2 strips of that ebony to beam the riser with and decided against it.
There are quite a few folks that do not care for the look of the I beam construction, and it can be done by offsetting it in the strike area and use overlays to make it almost disappear.
Both of these have 1/4" G-10 I-beams.
Post by: chefrvitale on March 24, 2025, 09:41:26 AM
Post by: Kirkll on March 24, 2025, 09:14:00 PM
Great looking risers, is the dark wood Chechen?
Macassar Ebony
Post by: TC209X50 on March 27, 2025, 02:47:04 PM
Is there a specific draw weight that you deem I Beam is a must regardless of construction material? Excluding maybe a synthetic, G10 etc. as the main build material.
Post by: Kirkll on March 27, 2025, 09:16:35 PM
Kirk,
Is there a specific draw weight that you deem I Beam is a must regardless of construction material? Excluding maybe a synthetic, G10 etc. as the main build material.
It's really more of a matter of the riser wood i'm using, and riser length. Good solid hardwood on a 17"riser has very little flex to it at 40-50# draw weights, but above 50 you will start seeing and feeling a bit of flex to it even using bubinga or ebony.... if you are using a laminated riser with accent strips, or a footing, you will add strength to the riser . But using softer woods like curly maple or walnut, anything over 50# should have an I-beam.
Some guys dont mind a bit of flex to a riser, but on softer hardwoods you can have easily have them develop compression cracks in the back of the shelf.
Using a G-10 I-beam adds mass weight to the riser too, besides zero flex, which is very desirable to many archers.
If you want a one wood riser. You can slice it up into 3 pieces and flip the 3/8" I-beam section around . A lot of the older bows were built this way in the 60's way using zebra wood. You have to look real close to see its not a solid block. I will not build a riser out of one solid block myself unless its a slender one piece long bow using good hardwood. Kirk
Post by: chefrvitale on March 28, 2025, 08:34:42 AM
Post by: Kirkll on March 28, 2025, 10:30:40 AM
When using thinner G-10 material, I offset the location accordingly to either hide it, or expose it without cutting through it. The I beam wont do you much good if ya sand through it in the strike area.
I’ve tried a few 3/4” I beams in the past, but didn’t care for the looks after shaping the riser and sanding into it at the thumb ledge and grip area… just looked weird to me….
Post by: Jon Lipovac on March 28, 2025, 01:45:02 PM
Post by: chefrvitale on March 28, 2025, 04:49:58 PM
Post by: Buemaker on March 28, 2025, 06:29:31 PM
Post by: Kirkll on March 28, 2025, 07:23:24 PM
Post by: Bryan Adolphe on March 28, 2025, 09:09:45 PM
Post by: Jon Lipovac on March 28, 2025, 09:44:49 PM
Post by: Bryan Adolphe on March 28, 2025, 10:05:37 PM
I just finished this bow and shot it a doz times. 50@28
Post by: Kirkll on March 29, 2025, 08:21:40 PM
Post by: Bryan Adolphe on March 30, 2025, 01:22:13 PM
Post by: chefrvitale on March 30, 2025, 02:44:38 PM
Post by: Kirkll on March 30, 2025, 07:40:48 PM
It is my thought and belief that a heavy composite like fiberglass or G10 as accent stripes whether by themselves or in conjunction with a footed riser do more for lateral stability than a simple I-Beam. A 1/4" or more composite I-Beam, while very stout, is still delflected easier than even say 2-4 pieces of 1/16" G10 accent stripes running left/right.
The only issue with running glass and even phenolic or G10 accent lines is that they often stand proud with any changes in MC levels. Even using G-10 for an I beam, you need to make damn sure that wood is bone dry before finishing or it can open up a wee bit and crank the finish. The back of the shelf is the most likely spot too.
I just run wood accent lines on footed risers myself, and use phenolic on the limb pads, and sometimes overlays.
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 30, 2025, 09:08:03 PM