Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Mad Max on January 08, 2025, 04:57:27 PM
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Roy slacking again, so here goes. :nono: :saywhat: :bigsmyl:
Dug out a Cedar (Juniper)board to make a few Veneers, maybe
(https://i.imgur.com/aGoLQiH.jpg)
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I just laid up a set of 80# recurve limbs and got them mounted on the riser. i'm doing some different lam configurations on 3 different sets. One set will be 115 # and i'm trying a new recipe to get better longevity . My last set this heavy had compression fractures in the maple on the belly side, so i have a different plan this time. The 3rd set for this riser will only be 65- 70# and I could just use maple on those with .040 glass.
I'm experimenting with this Fossilized woven bamboo on the belly side. So far my tests are showing higher compression strength than maple. The epoxy infused bamboo is seriously hard stuff, but surprisingly flexible. I was afraid it might be to brittle at first, but its held up well on heavy bows so far.
[attachment=1,msg3063783
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Did this today, Hard Maple backing clean break across back. Faulty board or too dry, who knows.
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looks like you forgot the fiberglass. :biglaugh:
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That’s always a bummer, Bue. :tongue:
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Doh...maple's grain looks angled through the board....
I've been making some Rob cosman style wood hinge business card boxes...a nice change from the bows.....
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Bow swap and an injury has me more active online than usual, anyone have any fun projects going?
Going to twist a string up for a flip tipped pacific yew selfbow and do some final tillering later on today, got a very interesting piece of hawthorne ill start scraping on soon been rigorous to get the tips aligned with steam and theres some pretty intense natural reflex which will be fun to tiller
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I just put another large piece of Osage in the wood stove… :o :o :o :o that 8” thick log must of weighed 30# and it’s 30 years old.
Years ago I got a huge trailer load of Osage thinking there would be a lot of good bow wood. It had been brought up from California and stacked in a shed for over 20 years. She was planning on having furniture built from it originally. Unfortunately…. Most of it was checked beyond use, no stave wood at all. I saved a few pieces for riser wood, but most of it ended up in the firewood shed. Kinda sad really…. But it burns like coal… :thumbsup:
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I just put another large piece of Osage in the wood stove… :o :o :o :o that 8” thick log must of weighed 30# and it’s 30 years old.
Years ago I got a huge trailer load of Osage thinking there would be a lot of good bow wood. It had been brought up from California and stacked in a shed for over 20 years. She was planning on having furniture built from it originally. Unfortunately…. Most of it was checked beyond use, no stave wood at all. I saved a few pieces for riser wood, but most of it ended up in the firewood shed. Kinda sad really…. But it burns like coal… :thumbsup:
Yeah, Osage burns crazy hot. Have to be careful loading up a small pot belly or barrel stove with 100% osage, you'll have the sides glowing red.
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I have a new huntin bow in progress but its a comedy of mistakes it seems... :dunno: :help:
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Lied about the string because I ran out of my spools so it was about time to put a backing on this pacific yew before I do final tillering and shooting in
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Wheeled out some more Osage - could be some nice staves.
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Elm bow with double nocks, works fine.
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Are they Sturgeon skins and if so may I ask where you can buy them?
Looks like a nice Osage log.
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They are sturgeon Bue, and they were gifted to me by a friend I can find out sometime today and I'll send you a PM
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Wheeled out some more Osage - could be some nice staves.
Why does that have the look of a public park? 🤣
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Unwrapping the ace bandage showed me how much glue I used hahah, squeeze out cleanup took some scraping and cleaned up the edges of the backing. Ready for some shooting and tillering tomorrow.
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Pretty bow. Looks very predatory.
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Wheeled out some more Osage - could be some nice staves.
Why does that have the look of a public park? 🤣
Local County prairie restoration/walking area. They are clearing out all the invasive trees - honeysuckle, autumn olive...etc, and they also consider Osage as an invasive species to the area. I know some of the guys doing the clearing and they keep an eye peeled for for straight pieces and let me know before they go in the burn pile. I have to drag/wheel them out to the parking area. I still end up rejecting a good amount of them.
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That's a nice inside track.
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Unwrapping the ace bandage showed me how much glue I used hahah, squeeze out cleanup took some scraping and cleaned up the edges of the backing. Ready for some shooting and tillering tomorrow.
That's gonna be a beauty.
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Those sturgeon skins look awesome on there!
After dealing with the furnace acting up today I got a little work done on a snaky Osage stave. After cleaning up it’s a little narrow and the handle area is quite small. So I shaped out a piece of cherry to somewhat match up then gave it a boil before tightly clamping into place. Tomorrow I’ll get it glued up. Once it dried I’ll glue a belly side block to thicken up the handle a bit more before I start tillering. There are still a few cracks that need attention before tillering. But it looks better than I expected it to before digging in
Kyle
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That's going to be a looker Kyle :o
:jumper:
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Finished a 68" Longbow for my boss. 43# at 31"
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Experimental recurve ! Its coming along.
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Nicely done. Great string angle at full draw, and good looking DFC chart too. Looks like a winner to me. :thumbsup:
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I debarked the six staves I split from an ash log a tree crew had leftup in the reservoir dam area . It was free,still green and asking for a ride.This is my first try at this and while I got two good straight staves and three that might just make curvy kind of crazy bows and one that was only just arrows I did learn about splitting right .I might have done better by paying better attention to where I split it .but it was free and to give myself a little credit there were knots in wrong spots, some tree fungus and bruised areas from the felling actions ,all these things can obviously happen to a log even if it is perfectly straight and this was not perfectly straight but not horrilbly crooked just enough to screw things a bit.
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I finally got myself a proper Drilling/Milling Machine, for Bolt-down and ILF.
No more Drilling jigs, that will eventually wear out.
Completely different feeling, deep regrett, i waited so long.
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Do you have a power feed for you X axis set up? That is a full monty DRO set up...
This is the one i put on mine. It's a variable speed control that is very nice for milling.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301148098764?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=301148098764&targetid=4581046493380274&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247657&mkgroupid=1239150647972013&rlsatarget=pla-4581046493380274&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c632d6541c6a1e29601fb1b4bd9620cd
What type of vice do you have on that table? Kirk
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No Power Feed.
For the ILF Limbs, it works by Hand Operation or with assist of a cordless screwdriver.
I'll see, what else i will be doing with this new toy.
The Vice is a self centering one for about 100€.
Maybe i'll Upgrade this in the Future, but does the Job for now.
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Trust me.... the power feed is a game changer with milling ILF risers.... I would recommend looking on ebay to find a good high quality Kurt vise... Your machine work is only as good as your vise holding the product, and well worth the investment.
I've got an older Kurt vise here that i had a couple of 1/4" steel plates fabricated to help me hold my riser blocks at different angles with enough height to keep from flipping your riser end for end. Those so called self centering vises can give you problems. Watch that baby closely.... It's always best to never flip that riser around and mill everything in a straight line. and ALWAYS check dead center and zero out your DRO with every set up after the riser has been placed in the vise. You'll figure it out yourself as you go along. I just thought i'd share a few tips. Any type of machinist work is all in the set up, and learning the feed rates and type of mill ends or cutters to use. For riser work i typically use router bits and end mills for setting location pins accurately.
Here is my set up.... I cheaped out on DRO and used slide micrometers for XYZ axis.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CuHzJm2a2sJ8Swiu8
Have fun with your new toy! These things are great tools.
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Thanks for the hints.
I check for propper Zero and straightness before i drill.
After the Initial Setup, that took me like 1h for perfekt allignment, IT seems to stay true.
The only "milling" at the Moment is the Slot at the but of the ILF Limbs.
Bur this alone, is an absolute gamechanger compared to Drilling this with jigs....
The Vice was 100€ it does the Job, for the start.
I'll Upgrade this in the Future.
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I just finished up another Sasquatch SS RC.....
Here is the build album if you want to take a look.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/K24Yz3gEbmN4nEhC9
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Nice bow Kirk.
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Finished up a stave vice I've been working on. I also plan to mount a conventional vice on a plate that I can swap out with the square tube. Supposed to rain this weekend, so I may get a chance to try it out.
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Wish me luck.
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I finally got myself a proper Drilling/Milling Machine, for Bolt-down and ILF.
No more Drilling jigs, that will eventually wear out.
Completely different feeling, deep regrett, i waited so long.
Good move, I love mine...makes all things good again!
Agree with Kirk... the powerfeed is a game changer, I found mine on alibaba for 130.00
good milling!
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Experimental recurve ! Its coming along.
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Nice looking setup there...still working on my static design..
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I generally build recurves mostly, but laid out a takedown hybrid.
gonna be 61.5" 45@28"
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Looking good.
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Very nice,
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BO-R. I sent you a PM
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Waiting for my rawhide backed bow to dry and started roughing out a green ash stave theres bends and a twist to steam bend out so it’s a challenge for my 2 nd bow but I’m gonna try I’ll use my steamer that I use for rust blueing barrels.its also got a twist that needs untwisting by about 3/4” just ahead of the handle, bending and untwisting wood is a new skill to me but I have the equipment at least, any advice is welcome.
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a bit of advice for your 2nd attempt.
Some say wet wood wet heat and with that steam for a bit longer than you think. the difference between 38 minutes and 45 minutes can sometimes be the difference between cracking fibers or working with rubber wood. Keep it a tad thick so if you do get some stress fractures you can shave down past them and still achieve your desired thickness. you could boil the whole limb if you fancied but that takes some interesting setup. Take care of one major correction at a time and let it sit in whatever clamping setup for longer than youd like as well, ive jumped the gun and erased heat corrections ive made many many times.
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My widebelt sander ran the belt off the end this morning, investigation found an air solenoid was leaking, hoping it was a hose but nope.
Nothin $115 wont fix but I'm down for 3 days .
It is 14 years old tho...
I'd buy a new one but they are over 8K and I may not have 14 more years in me! :laughing:
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My widebelt sander ran the belt off the end this morning, investigation found an air solenoid was leaking, hoping it was a hose but nope.
Nothin $115 wont fix but I'm down for 3 days .
It is 14 years old tho...
I'd buy a new one but they are over 8K and I may not have 14 more years in me! :laughing:
What kind of sander is this Kenny? Air solenoid ???? :dunno: :dunno:
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Griz widebelt. The air runs the belt back and forth an inch or so. Thought about disabling it but figured I could screw it up... :biglaugh:
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Shaped a bow today. Overshot my desired draw weight by 18lbs and I'm not sure why. May need more taper. I had one tapered lam @ 001. May need to try two tapered lams.
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Got sander up, Grizzly service is awesome. Ordered part Wednesday, got it Thursday with 2 day shipping :thumbsup: .
Didn't fix it so called tech support this morning and the techy went over the whole problem and we tried some different things.
It started working but I'm still not sure what fixed it. I'm thinking low air pressure wasn't cycling the solenoids.
But anyway it is back to work now! :biglaugh:
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I'm thinking low air pressure wasn't cycling the solenoids.
Wonder how that happened?:)
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Operator error I think, it had an air cylinder that got loose on one end, and I lowered the pressure while figuring out the noise. Never turned back up, but it worked for a long time like that... :tongue:
So I'm still not sure what fixed it... :biglaugh:
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Good job big dog:) :thumbsup:
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New design glass bow on the tiller for the first time. 64» ntn. Came out with almost even tiller on both limbs, just a tiny bit of adjustment to be done. Pics show bow drawn to 20-29 and 30 inch draw.
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I like the way it bends.
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Nice looking bend to that one. :clapper: :clapper:
Did you use tip wedges? and....What taper rates did you use?
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Kirk, here you go. The tapered lam has a .003 forward taper and the last 6 1/2 inches before string nocks goes into a .004 reverse taper, kind of a integrated wedge.
Specs: lengt 64 inches ntn.
From belly side:
Bjorn glass .040
European Walnut thin veneer
Tapered bamboo
Riser 22 inches
Bamboo parallel
Bamboo parallel
Stabil kore
Walnut veneer
Bjorn glass
Riser is made from 3 pieces of Jatoba glued in I beam configuration.
As this one is the first off new form we shall see how it work out.
Have adjusted it today so tiller is dead even on both limbs measured from three points both on brace and 20 inch draw.
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Looks like a winner to me…. I thought it looked as if you had a tip wedge. I bet you get decent performance with that one too. :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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Kirk.Don’t know if you read it all, but I mention a tip wedge, kind of. :)
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Nice Job!...Bue
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a bit of advice for your 2nd attempt.
Some say wet wood wet heat and with that steam for a bit longer than you think. the difference between 38 minutes and 45 minutes can sometimes be the difference between cracking fibers or working with rubber wood. Keep it a tad thick so if you do get some stress fractures you can shave down past them and still achieve your desired thickness. you could boil the whole limb if you fancied but that takes some interesting setup. Take care of one major correction at a time and let it sit in whatever clamping setup for longer than youd like as well, ive jumped the gun and erased heat corrections ive made many many times.
Thank you for the hints, I’ve for all intents finished the rawhide backed bow and it taught me a lot , I ended with a 40 lb bow but not befor a handle lamination let go for the third time after the rawhide was finished better handle design on the next one I reglued snd clamped this time then reinforced it with a rawhide handle wrap after it dryer I painted it with clear epoxy and wieghed it on the tiller tree -back up to 40 lbs then shot it for an hour no problems so I guess it is what it is , it’s a bow that shoots and I wanted to make one before I kick off! Well now I have two more in the works and several green staves ! ( I guess I’m hooked) thank you for help!
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If your handle is popping off it is probably because the handle area is bending. It doesn't take much bending for that to happen. One thing you can try is making the handle riser from thin layers of graduating lengths. These types of handles risers have enough give so they stay in place unlike a rigid handle riser.
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Well, it’s a liitle bit hard to do but I started dismantling the woodshop. About 5 yrs ago when I learned how to build bows I partitioned off the 3rd bay in the garage and got set up for woodworking, but mainly bow building.
The time has come to get the house ready to sell and its getting all torn down before the move. I’m gonna sell the big cabinet saw and get all my tools on mobile bases. I’m gonna try and get the dust collection consolidated and mobile as well.
All that to say, I got one last bow finished.
This one was intended for Kenny in the bow swap but came in originally at 60# somehow. I did get her backed off to 52@28. I love shooting this bow though and it looks like I just got to get stronger. 60# at my draw length, but I shoot it well.
Even though it will probably be until next winter before I dig into another build, I’ll be lurking around on here to see what you all got going on. :archer2:
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Excellent attention to detail Jon. Just beautiful.
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That's a very cool overlay transition from the riser to limb connection point. Can't say i've ever seen that one pulled off... Nicely done Jon. :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
That's sad you have to move... Why are you selling your place and moving? Greener pastures, Bigger shop next time?
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Thanks guys.
Moving just to build equity. I was a custom home builder for years and used to move a fair bit. Before our current home we lived in 3 houses in 8 yrs. Been in our current home 9yrs and now the youngest is in college. So we will most likely build 3 more homes and move every 2 yrs until we settle down for a bit.
No dedicated shop in the new home so will be putting all the fools on wheels so I can pull them out every once in a while.
The new garage has a 3rd bay that is 20’x53’ in which i will be doing PPF wraps on cars for some side money. I really enjoy doing them as I did do Custom Auto Painting in my 20’s for 9 yrs.
Here is an example of my wifes car I wrapped in cosmetic PPF last month.
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Wow! Is this the same material that they wrap boat hulls with?
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Not sure about boats. This PPF is Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU). Traditionally used in a clear form on the front end of cars to protect from rock/bug chips and road debris.
This is were the cosmetic wrap industry is leaning bs a normal vinyl wrap. Typical vinyls are 2-2.5 mils thick vs PPF coming in at 7.5-8.5 mils.
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Wow! That’s some pretty thick material…. Can you repair a scratch in it without replacing a whole section? Or can you heat it and pull it off again?
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Small superficial scratches like the stuff you get going through a car wash will self heal on a hot sunny day or with a heat gun. A painted surface would need to be polished to remove that type of scratch.
Anything that mars the film without tearing it can be heated up and mostly healed. Worst case, you pull the film off that panel and re-wrap it.
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Different Brand than what I have used so far, but this is an example of how it heals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cc7FAIMlU2o
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Made a shopvac port for my pattern sander. I 3d printed it with a magnetic base so that I can stick it down anywhere on the table. It's so much nicer than trying to clamp something down.
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Took a short cut today, using a grinder with an aggressive wheel to save time shaping a bow for a friend and got careless. wasn’t trying to grind the tip, just flipping the bow over to work on the other side with bow in one hand and grinder in the other.
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Dang it. Those were looking good too.
You can probable still save that if the glass is ground out too far. It'll just be a short base on the tip but still look decent.
Besides, less tip overlay=faster tips....Trying to look at the bright side :bigsmyl:
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That thought crossed my mind, but I might try and grind it down to the glass and start over. Luckily, it barely nicked the glass, either way, I’m pretty sure it can be saved.
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That thought crossed my mind, but I might try and grind it down to the glass and start over. Luckily, it barely nicked the glass, either way, I’m pretty sure it can be saved.
Agreed
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Don't feel bad bro... we all get our share of oooops! going on. I'd take em off myself and start again too. That's the part about using power tools to save time that can be expensive sometimes. one wrong move and its toast.... :biglaugh:
I use a dremel tool with a ceramic tile bit to rough cut my tip notch grooves. I learned the hard way to dull up the brand new bits on a piece of steel and knock the edge off. Those brand new ceramic bits eat like a lion! I ended up piking a few bows an inch shorter because of that lion... :biglaugh:
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Glued up another 66" straight longbow. #60. 45 to 47 lb at 28 in the razor is the Cody Osage and Wenger
Limbs are Osage under clear glass Amber action Boo from a flooring that I cut down and grind. Going to be a sweet one going to North Dakota.
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Well, it’s a liitle bit hard to do but I started dismantling the woodshop. About 5 yrs ago when I learned how to build bows I partitioned off the 3rd bay in the garage and got set up for woodworking, but mainly bow building.
The time has come to get the house ready to sell and its getting all torn down before the move. I’m gonna sell the big cabinet saw and get all my tools on mobile bases. I’m gonna try and get the dust collection consolidated and mobile as well.
All that to say, I got one last bow finished.
This one was intended for Kenny in the bow swap but came in originally at 60# somehow. I did get her backed off to 52@28. I love shooting this bow though and it looks like I just got to get stronger. 60# at my draw length, but I shoot it well.
Even though it will probably be until next winter before I dig into another build, I’ll be lurking around on here to see what you all got going on. :archer2:
Man thats pretty!!
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Working on a 66" straight longbow. Roughing it in and Working to my target poundage
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And the palm side
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Dang it. Those were looking good too.
You can probable still save that if the glass is ground out too far. It'll just be a short base on the tip but still look decent.
Besides, less tip overlay=faster tips....Trying to look at the bright side :bigsmyl:
you ever thought about dual string grooves? Saw it once. One for practice and one for hunting switch string and move to lower string grooves and niw you are at hunting poundage.
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And the palm side
How are you liking that asymmetrical riser design? I've been doing it on my rd style but not so far on a longbow. How long is the riser?
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.my riser on a 66" longbow is 16-1/2" on a 28" draw.been working out great
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Better speed with a longer riser on a 66'longbow at 28". Shorter working limb. It will stack at 29" 3# pounds. Max efficiency and comfort at 28"
Your 66'' bow starts stacking at 29" ??? That doesn't sound right....
I can get 33" out of a 66" and 31" on a 64" on my long bows ....and... i use a 22" riser fade tip to tip and power lams beyond the fades 4". :dunno: :dunno:
.004 FT with Bamboo cores. .040 glass. Kirk
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Got tired of riser glue up being so annoying, so I made some clamps from flat bar and coupling nuts I tapped. Worked well on the first go. I may re-make the setup with 4 clamps instead of three tho.
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That's a pretty cool riser clamp set up .... :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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Almost finished a nice Bocote ILF Riser.
Will get some SR Limbs at the Weekend.
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Thanks Kirk. I'd love some of those rockler mini panel clamps, but they're just so dang expensive. I'm happy with how these came out.