Is there a chart somewhere for giving a sugestion on what spine of wood shafts to use.
If you took the draw length, the poundage of the bow, what type of bow and how the shelf is cut and or any other factors.
I would like to be able to take all the factors listed above and get an answer. (At least close to a proper answer).
I don't think you'll find such a chart Jim. Wood tends to be a little more personal than aluminum or carbon. You may find a shaft from 5# under bow weight to 20# over bow weight to be the one that works best depending on the factors you described. I would start a touch heavier than you think you will need. You can always leave them long and they'll work fine. If they end up being a little weak, build the shelf out a bit, or use bigger feathers, and they'll work fine. Either way, you'll have a better idea of the right shaft for you next time.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/WoodChart.pdf
Don't know how well it works.
Check out the tables that Kelly Peterson put together on Foxfire Archery's web site.
Kelly\\'s spine chart (http://www.arrowsbykelly.com/Spine_Charts.html)
Looking at that those two charts highlights the problem, The 3 Rivers say (just for example) a 65-70# needs 75-80 spine arrow, yet the other chart says 65# = 65 spine (but does give the info that high performance bows add 10-15 spine).
My personal general rule of thumb is bow weight at my draw length, +10 then +10 for cut past center bows. Then go from there*
However with my 52# ACS CX I used 75-80# so that rule of thumb doesn't work out for that.
It really depends on the bow , the draw length , the string used , the point weight and the type and species of wood arrow, then you throw in shooter differences , you get the picture .
My suggestion take all the opinions of what to shoot , throw it all in a big bag , stir it up and pull out your own ideas.
Good general rule is Selfbows 5-10# under, longbow with shelf cut 5#under to bow weight , recurve 10# over , then add for fast flight , add more for longer draw and more for heavy point. Good idea to have a few of different spine and experiment what works for you.
I strongly recomend the guidelines stated by Ted. That should put you in the ball park and from there you're on your own anyway... there's no hard and fast rule for arrow selection since each archers needs can be different.
Ted's advise and Kelly's charts are pretty close to each other. Another good chart is on Bob Burton's Whispering Wind site. If I have doubts, I go with a higher spine, start long and work my way shorter as I paper tune the arrows to the bow.