I am fletching up some aluminum shafts that I really don't want to cap dip. I have Duco and Bohning Platinum, and I wouldn't have given this another thought but I just saw on the 3Rivers site that they don't recommend either of those in this scenario.....feathers to aluminum. Did the formulation change? What are you guys using?
If you scrub the aluminum shafts with cleanser (like Ajax or Comet) and then dry them thoroughly, Platinum will work very well. Getting the shafts clean and ready to fletch is the key.
The only glue that I've had consistent good results from on aluminum is NPV. There was a change in the formulation of Platinum some years ago, and I eventually stopped using it on aluminum after some feathers started falling off. Maybe they've changed it again and it works better now, IDK, but I'm not likely to change back after I've found something that consistently works.
In fact, the only complaint I have about NPV is that it works TOO good. Sometimes when I want to replace a damaged feather, etc., it is a little hard to scrape off the aluminum shaft.
I have used NVP for a long time on Aluminum, carbon and wood and never really had any trouble, I have also used Duco as well on all 3 with no issues.
Have several tubes of Platinum, but I fletch mostly wood. Do have some 2219 and 2314 shafts that I use for play and occasional 3-D.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
I went to NPV. I have even lost some with NPV. I use wraps on all my aluminum now,and they will pull the feather off down to the quill before they come off.
I started using that Starbond I forget which kind..medium? someone else here had mentioned for fletching on everything. That stuff is great! They send bottles to transfer from big bottle to little bottle too and a long, precise tip. and it hasn't dried out like a tube of superglue would. Just use hot melt from Menards for inserts now. Works fantastic.
I hate it but, after trying several "recommendations", none that I had great success with, I just use the fletching tape, wood (using wraps as well) aluminum and carbon, the latter having wraps or just to arrow surface. I have always used alcohol for cleaning prior to wrap or fetch tape and have never had a problem. When time to refletch, you never need to scrape, just peel off. I have just recently started using thread(silk) for wrapping the leading edge with a dab of glue fingered in to seal, again, no problems and easy easy removal. Cheers.
Easton has recommended cleaning Aluminum shafts with Ajax, because it does not leave a residue common with other detergents. I have used vinyl paint and platinum paint but would try NPV.
Not sure if no cap dip includes a clear dip, but you can dip in clear then you wouldn't have any issues with either of the glues.
Jason
I use fletch tape on alluminum.Never had an issue personally with it.Fast,no goop,.Just clean shaft,apply fletch tape and then press down full length firmly going up and down the quill.Some put dab of superglue on the end.Old fletch tape does not work as well as fresher tape.I store it in tackle box.
Many like it and some dont.Never had a problem personally and have used it for many years.
Mc Dave hit it right on the head I've used the same and that stuff works great.
I have had many issues with my fletching releasing from aluminum shafts in cold/wet weather. I've tried multiple cleaners/glue but the best I've found is super glue gel.
I use fetching tape on aluminum and superglue the ends. Works well for me.
Rich K.
NPV works great with aluminum. I don't use cap wraps, so I just fletch straight to the shaft.
Another glue is Locktite ultra gel from Walmart , it holds good also.
I have not had any issues using Duco on aluminum. I wiped the shafts with 90% alcohol first. With that being said, I've only been arrow building for a couple of years so maybe it's just a matter of time before I lose some fletchings?
I still remember the thread some years back when Bohning changed the fletch tite. I had issues with vanes flying off my son's arrows. A lot of us went to NPV glue which works. My mistake was buying it direct by a quart. The stuff thickens up so I had to have a can of MEK to thin it. Tape and I have a mixed history especially here in the desert in summer. Feathers rolled over as the glue in the tape turned to goo from the sun. Lately I have been refurbishing some arrows for our newbies to use. Been using the Gorilla SG in bottle with blue cap. I do scrubb the shafts as described above with comet. These are old aluminum shafts from the 80's so I am being over zealous about cleaning them.
Use a clear (or whatever color you wish) wrap. Then use just about whatever glue you want.
back in the day, I would dip in clear, then glue to that.
have you tried using super Glue? I have and I found it real good plus it holds sinew down real good and I mean real Good hope this has helped
NPV
I use white vinegar on a cotton ball to wipe the fletching area then use bohning or fletching tape. I don't dilute the vinegar or rinse the shaft. Wipe it with a paper towel to dry enough and fletch it.
The vinegar etches the aluminum and removes oxidation that effects how well adhesives bond or aluminum primers/paint
Rusty
Sounds interesting Rusty!
Clean a shaft with the vinegar and make a nice salad dressing with olive oil and my favorite spices as well to go with it.
Another vote for Saunders NPV - I wipe mine with acetone and then fletch. Never had trouble and I live in the hot and humid south.
I use fletch tape. When I was a kid all we shot was aluminum and we used fletch-tite. I think I saw above fletch-tite may have changed their recipe in recent years.
One more reason to shoot woodies!!!
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
I have done many dozens of arrows with feathers on aluminum shafts. Saunders NPV Arrowmate cement and Bohning Fletchtite Platinum both work quite well. Both have their own separate qualities but I have not had trouble with either. You can scrub with Ajax or sand the shaft but neither is necessary. I use Acetone, not alcohol, on a clean rag and rub the shaft by holding the shaft between my fingers and squeeze, pulling the shaft back and forth briskly, all the way around until the aluminum squeeks. This will clean the shaft well. The next step is to make sure you have enough glue on the feather when you lay it down. How much is enough? If it squirts a little bit of glue out the bottom, youre good. I take a q-tip and wipe the glue. NPV glue will dry thin and flat and clear, you wont notice it. Bohning will dry like little beads along the quill. You can wipe it off in the jig if it bothers you. I just leave it. I have NEVER had feathers come off unless I peel them off with a knife. Use Acetone and get them well cleaned.
NPV for about 20 years and several hundred arrows. Clean with pure alcohol n fletch and its a done deal. I also keep my glue in the fridge once opened so a tube may last 2 yrs or more without getting too thick........
YMMV.......
I'm still having great luck with Fletchtite Platinum - I just use Isopropyl alcohol to clean the shaft as is typical, and I think the key is time - fletchtite is not fast, I leave them on for 20 minutes minimum per feather. I've had great luck for many years with both formulations of the fletchtite.
Hey Roger
I've used Aluminum a good number of years, and in those years sniffed ...err..TRIED a lot of different glues;^)))
...aluminum cleaning techniques etc....Not to dog anyone elses advise or choices....but for me after all that "experience') with all those glues-cleaners..etc....I gave arrow wraps a go.....and never looked back !
Good old "time tested" Onestringer wraps and Gorilla glue ""Blue cap" is best of the best for this application.
I've misplaced arrows under deep snow , lost arrows that deer on a death run tossed beyond where I was looking ....some of these "misplaced" arrows spent years in ohio weather extreme conditions of rain-snow-heat- below zero temps....to the point that the aluminum shaft was rusted through and most of the feathers had deteriorated..BUT..the wrap-feather quill- and glue still held ! That proved all the proven that needs light shined upon it ;^)
My advise is to get some Onestringer wraps and a bottle of gorilla super glue in the "blue cap".....then go hunt hard without any concern about feather to aluminum adhesion ;^)
Best with your quest my friend ! :campfire:
Had issues when I started using aluminum as well. I take a drywall sponge to the area I'm going to fletch then wipe clean with denatured alcohol. Gorilla blue cap works great after the prep is done. Easy peasy. :shaka: