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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Si on April 18, 2023, 05:20:37 PM
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I just finished a Yew bow with horn nocks. The bow is 68" and 40# and you would think it would be easy to string but getting that top loop over the nock and into the groove is tough for this youngster at 79. Same thing with my Strunk bow. I guess I will just need a second person to get strung up. Any unique thoughts?
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Si, with the string loop on the bottom nock and the top loop slid down the limb a bit you can add a second string nock on the horn nocks and use a longer string as a bow stringer to bend the bow and slide the upper loop over the nock.
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Thanks for the info. I have never heard of that in my 65 years of archery. Thanks again.
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Welcome Si. If the longer string by itself doesn't work, you can always make a simple tillering-tree from a 3 ft piece of scrap 2x2 notched on one face and an open fork at the other. I'm only 75, but that's what I use.
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Thanks for the reply but I guess I am dense. I have tillering sticks to do the job but don't understand how this works. I can string the bow to a brace height of 5" but when I twist the string to get at least a 6" height I run out of steam and can't get the loop over the hump and into the nock. Can you explain further?
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Hope my PM made it more clear for you, Si.
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I use a long temporary string and pull the bow down the tree until it's bent enough to easily put on the real string. Slip the temp string into a notch on the tree, then put on the loose real string. Gently release the taut temp string until the real string settles into the nocks and the bow is stable at fistmele. Then remove the temp string.
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Thanks again. I think it has soaked in this time. I will let you know how I came out.
Si
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I have made two grooves on both nocks, the outer one is for longer cord, a tad longer than the bow. Slice the upper limb through the string and put the lower loop on it´s groove. Then take the stringer and put it on the outer grooves. Put your foot on the stringer, pull the bow upwards and slide the upper loop to the groove. Remove the stringer and you are ready to shoot. This way it´s easy to string heavy bows w/o wetting your pants.
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Thanks for the pic and explanation, Lehtis. I tried to explain to Si but think I only confused him. :dunno:
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Those horn tips are very cool! :thumbsup: I've never tried doing a set of those... :clapper: :clapper:
Here is a bow stringing video i did... Maybe this will help.
https://youtu.be/0kEqO6Lq6bo
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The way to string a rather short Americn flatbow at low poundage can be well done like in the video, both with and without stringer. It will not be so easy that way to do with 72” long and even longer English longbows with 8-beginning poundage… or even 7… Thats why either long stringer and double grooves on nocks… or step in method.
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I use either double knocks and a long string to brace it up. Or the same thing but slightly different is instead of cutting a second nock you make a snug fitting leather cap that goes on the end of the bracing string that butts up to the nock. With a wood bow, you DO NOT want to use a modern style bow stringer that uses the rubber pad. As it can damage the limbs but putting excess stress in the inner half of the limbs.
Until I try to string over 100# I use a push pull method except I put the lower limb under my foot instead of against it so I can press down with my foot for a little extra leverage in the heavy king bows. I will have the heel of my foot on the ground and raise my toes of high as the go and place the limb under the ball of my foot as the pressing surface. It works well for my uo to my 100# Osage bow but I haven’t tried it on my 115# yew bow yet.
Kyle
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You have to be careful with horn nocks that you don't have the outside string nock beyond the tip of the limb that is inside the horn nock or you can pull the horn nock off the end of the bow. That is a problem if you use a stringer with a cup on the end. With tip overlays it usually isn't a problem because the end of the limb is usually at or near the end of the overlay