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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: BruceT on March 15, 2023, 08:14:00 PM
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Possible to put arrow wrap on a tapered wood shaft ? Without pucker at nock end ?
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Thats a tough one. I cap dip its easy and fun. Make a diptube from lowes or home depot pvc parts about 8 bucks... not what you wanted to hear but its better in many ways to a wrap on woodies
JMHO.
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I think the only way you can pull that off with a vinyl wrap is overlapping the wrap a bit and using a razor knife to trim the overlap, then trim the end to even it out... Not an easy procedure, but it can be done.
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Short answer, no.
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Maybe cut the wrap on an angle to trim off excess? Will take some figuring on how much to cut. I ran into this same issue with aluminum shafts like the X-7 that are tapered about an inch from nock. I just applied the wrap before the taper and crested the bare area. Not to easy on a 8” taper. Rather than buy the premade wraps buy a sheet or two of Oracal 651 or 751 vinyl paper from the craft store to experiment with.
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You could the size and shape in the same way sizing a beaver tail bow grip is done. Wrap it in masking tape then cut it off. Result will show the needed dimensions.
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It’s illegal :biglaugh: just joking to put a wrap on a wood arrow you will have to seal it first to make sure no moisture gets in but it can be done.
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I agree, the wooden shaft will have to be sealed, so the wrap will stick, even when the wrap overlaps on to itself. On a tapered shaft the wrap can be aligned at a slight angle to the center line of the shaft, the end results will be no puckering but the ends of the wrap will not be even, so the wrap will have to trimmed perpendicular to the centerline of the shaft.
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I know a few guys that use wrap on parallel wood shafting with excellent results....but , for "any" tapered arrow shafts imho you woud be better off using a rattle~can ;)
Best with the quest my friend........
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While I have never used them on wood (but I have thought about it), I have used them in the past on the AD traditional tapered carbon shafts. From my memory, they were 11/32's down to 5/16's. I'm a pretty analytical on how things look and it never crossed my mind that it caused any problems. I'm sure the seams weren't straight but I didn't see it as a problem.
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That is something I have never tried and I think with good reason ..........
I'd say if you want to dress things up on that end of your arrow, you have to dip.
And the pvc tube deal is great so long as you are using water based products. Do NOT make pvc dip tubes with the intent of using solvent based products like some of the Bohning stuff (FLETCHLAC) ..............
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I used to use dip tubes, then switched to spray paint, then most recently switched to spray lacquer. I buy it at the automotive store. Works great. :thumbsup:
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Most people just guess and have no real experience. Yes is the answer. You can use wraps on tapered shafts.
Those of you guessing, get some facts before you post. Ridiculous.
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I'm really not sure why wood would matter. 90% of my arrows are tapered and wrapped, have been for over 20 years. Speculation is a horrible thing as people have no clue what they're speaking about, therefore they deter you in a direction that you both have no clue.
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Don't know who the speculation comments were toward :dunno:
...but I wasn't speculating anything ;^) The degree of taper might change things....but I have used wraps on more than a "few" tapered aluminum shafts. The shaft material is irrelevant imho. Only thing that would differ is "degree of taper coupled with shaft diameter".. that said , a tapered shaft/wrap is more difficult to get even/smooth due to that taper of the shaft. When I did a few dozen of them I always had several that would have a crease formed by trying to roll the vinyle wrap onto a tapered shaft.
Can it be done ?
Hell yea...is it the same as installing a wrap on a parallel shaft...Yes and No for me....You do it the same, but the results imho will not be the same on all shafts due to the taper.....hence my "recommendation" to use a rattle can ;) :campfire:
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River.... it was directed toward anyone that doesn’t have a clue what they are talking about. Real simple.... no dancing.
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Precisely River, hence my response. KirkII really nailed it. When the shaft at each end of the wrap is of two different diameters, only trimming will give you an even result, simple physics.
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I've never trimmed any wraps on tapered shafts. What's going on here?
Do I need to film tomorrow to proove you all wrong???
What proof you got BAK? Simple physics or simple truth. Show me. Here, I'll show you my bloody arrows that defiy your so called physics...
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Now which one of all these tapered shafts need trimming???
Who took physics and post your diploma now please. Simple posting. Waiting....
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Is Issac Newton in the house? :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
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This is what I can't stand about the Internet. People can make up anything with no experience whatsoever and becoming an expert on nothing..
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A while back I purchased a dozen tapered Hex-shafts from Whispering Winds. Beautiful arrows that I cut the fletching off, put wraps on to accommodate anchoring to the nose . I was considering refinishing the shafts and adding new wraps as a project . Basically rebuild the arrow .
The wraps that I did put on developed a small crease at the nock end .
My intent was not to start any kind of a controversy, but see if someone had a solution ? I had thought of a couple of parallel cuts an inch long , at nock end might help ?
Just so you know, there is a real good chance I won’t get around to doing it anyway . If it ever warms up in Manitoba !!!
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HEX shafts???
Really?
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Bruce, are you actually intending to kill something or just dressing the part?
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Yes , Jim Jackson , every time I go hunting ,I intend on killing something .
How about you ?
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Terry , the hex-shafts , were made out of pine . Canadian made I might add .
I think Bob Barton used them a lot. It may have been 8 or 10 years ago when I got them ? I lose track of time .
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I remember the hex shafts. Don't think they ever really caught on . They took several pieces of flat stock and laminated up a piece of wood that had grains all opposing each other at around a 30 degree angle no......looking at the cross section now more like a 60?, and then the dowel was milled from that. They were after strength and stability if I remember correctly. Well, like I said......you never hear of them these days so they must not have been a hit, but I do remember them.
The rest of all this thread seemed to have made it's way into the weeds.
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I think this is a geometry problem involving two circles one of which has a diameter of 11/32 and the other a diameter of 5/16. The circumference of each one would be 2.15875 in and 1.9625 in. Those two dimensions would represent the ends of the wrap and they are parallel to each other and 8 in apart and you connect the two. Then cut it out. And wrap it.
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Sounds like physics to me :readit:
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Oops. I need to post a correction to the formula I used above. I used two pi d as the circumference formula of a circle instead of pi d. So divide the two numbers above in half to get the correct ones. My mistake.