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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Walnut on January 28, 2023, 07:40:28 AM
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Hi Guys,
This has probably asked several time but I need help. I'm bare shaft tuning my hoyt satori its 45lbs at 28" shooting goldtip 500's with 125 grain tip and 3 fingers under.
I cant seem to get rid of a tail right arrow at impact. My point of impact between my fletched arrow and the bare shaft is pretty good. I just cant get rid of the tail right and slight tail high at impact. I shot at 10yds and about 18yds with the same results.
Thanks in advance for you guys help!
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Arrow seems stiff to me. I shoot 46 lbs 29 inch arrow 500 spine with a 200 grain point and 100 grain insert. I would try upping your point weight. How does the arrow look in flight? Is it flying tail right? Is it the same arrow that gives you thisnresult or all that you shoot? If you feel you are really close try knock tuning the arrows that are off.
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Try more tip weight, what is your arrow length? You may need 600 spine.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM
https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning
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My arrows are currently cut to 27.5"
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I believe your over spined a fair amount with that short of a 500.
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Yep, as already said, I believe you're a bit stiff for your arrow length. :thumbsup:
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Sounds good guys, would trying heavier points weaken the arrow enough?
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Heavier points will be your cheapest and quickest way to weaken your spine, but if you happen to need new arrows any time soon then trying 600s or longer 500s would be another option. with option #2 you should be able to tune with the points that you already have. maybe find a buddy that has some old 500s or 600s that you could try at different lengths.
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I'm currently working with 500's. I did think about trying 600's though.
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What would adding or subtracting side plate shims do?
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Adjusting side-plate thickness =adjusting to center....Most can't "remove" as much as build it out for obvious reasons.
Building it out/thicker works for a weak spin adjustment...removing/thinning is for a stiff spine adjustment.
It would appear (on paper;) your spine of choice is a little stiff . Adding point weight or arrow length will tame the issue "if" it isn't extreme .....
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Roy from Pa...shared an EXCELLENT video . Mr Ken explains all this very well in his video ;)
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That was a good video, thanks.... I'll definitely watch it a few times. I always wonder uf my release screws with my tuning.
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Yea Scott, if ones form isn't pretty solid it can/will show an array of off readings with arrow flight & tuning.
Best get your form down bud. Just work/practice close to the bale until you get to that point . As Long as your arrows are ballpark your good enough for short range shooting(not hunting)....
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Hi Guys,
I tried a 400 arrow cause i had some from a longbow i owned. I put 75 grains up front and its shooting pretty straight. Also shoots decent wih 125 grain tip. With all the calculators out there this combination it wat to stiff but it seems to be shooting go so i donno what to do if i shout keep messing with the 500's or stick with this set up.
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G'day mate.
Having a short draw length makes arrow tuning very easy as you have a lot more arrow length to play with, but once you start cutting your arrows past 28 inches you can really stiffen an arrow up. I had this problem when I was first starting out when I researched what arrows I needed to start with based on the poundage of my bow.
The other thing to consider is that when talking about how much weight is on the front of your arrow, you also need to consider your insert weight, which it seems like you're doing. Most people will say "I'm shooting 250gns up front" for example and it is implied that this includes the weight of the point/broadhead as well as the components.
Ken Beck's video posted above is great. If you're after some more material to dive into, I've linked a video I made below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMQnpIwXbqI&t=14s