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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Buemaker on September 08, 2022, 06:42:25 AM
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The Norwegian flight championship is coming up soon. There are several classes, but poundage is one class up til 35 pound, then 35- 50 pounds and then sky is the limit. A few guys manage to draw 120 -140 pounds. (Not me) I am making this bow for the 35-50 class. The bows can be laminated, but only natural materials. The idea with this one is to have a long bow 70 ntn with a long fairly stiff mid section and much bend in the outer sections without making it directly wip ended. It is laminated with American hard Maple back, European Walnut center and European Iron wood belly. It has a Jatoba powerlam. Will be drawn to 28 inches. Pictures at brace and about 20, coming along, even tiller now. Fingers crossed.
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Nice Bue.
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Looking good Bue
Keep us posted on how you do in the shoot :thumbsup:
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Coming along, Bue. Good luck with your attempt. :thumbsup:
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Very cool :thumbsup:
Why the stiff mid section?
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I understand the stiff mid section, and think thats a good thing for a flight bow. but .....i'm curious as to if you plan on laminating a grip section to the belly? and if so, why are you flexing the bow without the riser section laid up? That will stiffen it up even more. Kirk
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Good Luck Buddy...
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Kirk. It will not be laminated on a grip section. It has a 19 inches power lam between the backing and center lam and I do not want this section stiffer than is.
Buggs. I am not certain about most things and my English is not that good,but this is what I think. I could try to write a lot, but to make it short. I feel that a longer bow is more comfortable to shoot. In order to make these long limbs efficient I think that moving the short outer working section further apart less mass have to be moved.I do not want the limbs to be whip ended.
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Kirk. It will not be laminated on a grip section. It has a 19 inches power lam between the backing and center lam and I do not want this section stiffer than is.
Buggs. I am not certain about most things and my English is not that good,but this is what I think. I could try to write a lot, but to make it short. I feel that a longer bow is more comfortable to shoot. In order to make these long limbs efficient I think that moving the short outer working section further apart less mass have to be moved.I do not want the limbs to be whip ended.
Sounds like a plan Bue :thumbsup:
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Makes sense :thumbsup: I imagine that profile will be more challenging to tiller. Good luck with the bow and the competition!
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Kirk. It will not be laminated on a grip section. It has a 19 inches power lam between the backing and center lam and I do not want this section stiffer than is.
Buggs. I am not certain about most things and my English is not that good,but this is what I think. I could try to write a lot, but to make it short. I feel that a longer bow is more comfortable to shoot. In order to make these long limbs efficient I think that moving the short outer working section further apart less mass have to be moved.I do not want the limbs to be whip ended.
I think you are on the right track with your thinking here. Especially using light weight shafts... Kirk
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Great job Bue, Your thought behind each material and its placement is spot on!
Love to see the draw at 28"
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Great job Bue, Your thought behind each material and its placement is spot on!
Love to see the draw at 28"
Yeah he always thinks it out very carefully :bigsmyl:
Watching :thumbsup:
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So basically Bue, the longer stiffer riser section reacts the same as a 3 piece take down bow with a longer riser and shorter limbs which equals greater speed?
Looking forward to a full draw picture Bue.
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Yes Roy. That is the idea though it will not be as stiff as a take down handle. The idea is also to have a fairly long bow act like a short bow, but more stable and forgiving than a very short bow. We will find out on Saturday if it works or not. In the past I have found that what you think is a great flight bow may not be so when you test it. Good arrows is just as important as the bow I think.
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Hope it performs well for you, Bue..
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Good luck, Bue. Don't forget to take pics. :thumbsup:
...and, good arrows are important in any archery activities. Many folks think the bow is the "thing" but without the arrow a bow is just a stick and string.
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Good luck, Bue. Don't forget to take pics. :thumbsup:
...and, good arrows are important in any archery activities. Many folks think the bow is the "thing" but without the arrow a bow is just a stick and string.
Boy is that a mouthful you just said right there Pat.... In flight shooting the arrows are a HUGE part of it. I spent some time with Allan Case who participates in our national flight shooting competition every year with some records to show for it. The time he puts into building and balancing those ultra light complex carbon shafts used for high powered foot bows is incredible.
Another factor in flight shooting by hand is learning to draw and release in one smooth motion without pause.... the string never stops moving...... An experienced flight shooter can get more FPS out of a bow than 90% of the hunting archers will. Watch some video of these guys sometime. Great sport!
Good luck to ya Bue! Go get em! Kirk
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Sorry guys, but I will not be able to show a full draw picture of this one. I had the tiller right and had drawn it on the tiller tree at least a hundred times on full draw and also shot it a few times. It broke on the tiller tree with a bang. The break is so that it is difficult to see how the break occured. I suspect the maple backing went first since there is a clean break there across. I have not broken a bow in years so I guess it was about time. A flight bow should be highly stressed, but perhaps not this much he he. The competition is on Saturday so plenty of time to make another
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Ouch.
I've seen those loud explosions a time or 2.
Never fun.
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A flight bow should be highly stressed, but perhaps not this much he he. The competition is on Saturday so plenty of time to make another
Keep the new one just the same, keep it stressed, No pain No gain :thumbsup:
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Aw man…. That’s too bad…. At least she went on the tiller tree instead of in your hands.
Do you have any arrow requirements in the class you are shooting? I’m curious what weight arrows you plan to use?
I’d love to see pictures of the next one without a string and see what kind of reflex you are starting with. Kirk
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That’s a bummer Bue but it is good you are not discouraged and are going to make another! Have you also made your own arrows for the flight shooting?
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That's too bad, Bue. I'd say if the maple backing broke across grain the wood was deteriorated for some reason.
Some of the flight shooters here in the US only expect their bows to make one good shot they are so highly strained. The ultimate distance the arrow goes is what counts.
Oh well, time to start another. :saywhat: :thumbsup:
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Thats sucks after all the work put into it.
Looks like your flight bow did not like having its wings clipped :tongue:
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Sorry Bue!
Did the break make Pickle News?
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No cucumber news this time. ;)
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Kirk. The class I was going to use the broken bow is what I guess I could call basic flight up to 50 pounds. If the bow weight is say 49 pounds at 28 inch draw, you are allowed to use a 29 inch arrow. The arrows must be made from wood or bamboo with bird feathers or pergament. No plastic nocks. Point or no point is up to you. No weight requirement. The arrows I was going to use had a weight from 19-20 grams. 19 grams is 293 grains. A bit lighter would have been better, but the spine have to be considered also.
I have a back up bow made from two lams of Hickory that I am going to use in the up to 35 pound class, 51 inches ntn with 25 inch arrows with 245 grain weight.
There are other classes based on war arrows from medieval times and from Viking age. These have other requirements.
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Onetone. I make the arrows, hand planed and sanded. Barrelled shaped with inserted round headed brass nails as points. Feathers are 1-1 1/4 inch long.
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Ouch.
I've seen those loud explosions a time or 2.
Never fun.
A time or two??
I thought your wood stove ran on explosions. :laughing:
Hope attempt two holds together for you Bue.
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Kirk. The class I was going to use the broken bow is what I guess I could call basic flight up to 50 pounds. If the bow weight is say 49 pounds at 28 inch draw, you are allowed to use a 29 inch arrow. The arrows must be made from wood or bamboo with bird feathers or pergament. No plastic nocks. Point or no point is up to you. No weight requirement. The arrows I was going to use had a weight from 19-20 grams. 19 grams is 293 grains. A bit lighter would have been better, but the spine have to be considered also.
I have a back up bow made from two lams of Hickory that I am going to use in the up to 35 pound class, 51 inches ntn with 25 inch arrows with 245 grain weight.
There are other classes based on war arrows from medieval times and from Viking age. These have other requirements.
Some of the fastest bows i've ever seen were made with hickory.
So you can use a shorter bow with shorter draw lengths with the arrow 1" over draw length? Why not build a 49.5 @ 24 and use a 25" shaft? you would have to custom build the shafts for spine stiffness, but could do this by laminating your arrow stock , then turning them yourself and possibly use a parabolic shape to reduce mass weight.......
I wish i had the time to get into flight shooting. That would be great sport going into mad scientist mode again... :biglaugh:
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Nice arrows :thumbsup: Painted or stained?
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Bvass, nuff outta you boy.
:laughing:
Bue very nice arrows. That's how I made my arrows for our golf shoots, where you shoot at a target maybe 300 to 500 yards distance and you play the game just like golfing. I've found that my wooden arrows were lighter than carbon and aluminum arrows.
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What wood did you use for those arrows Roy?
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Poplar is the lightest.
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:thumbsup:
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Kirk you can do that and can actually shoot that bow with a slightly heavier draw weight than the 50 pound limit. That’s the way it is and is equal for all.
Onetone I use alcohol based leather dye and then some kind of wood oil.
Roy that golf sounds like fun.
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Kirk you can do that and can actually shoot that bow with a slightly heavier draw weight than the 50 pound limit. That’s the way it is and is equal for all.
Onetone I use alcohol based leather dye and then some kind of wood oil.
Roy that golf sounds like fun.
I was just curious how they measure the draw weight?
I found that anything less than 25" in length for arrows is very difficult to get decent flight stabilization shooting long distance. I experimented with shooting ultra light , short arrows with an over draw years ago using bows up to 100# draw weights just for fun.... Of course i was in my late 30's early 40's then. I don't think i could even get much more than 70# to full draw any more.... I don't want to hurt myself trying any more either... :biglaugh:
i hunted with 84# with 444 grain aluminum arrows for many years, and a lot of guys criticized me for using such light arrows too. But i was busting ribs on elk at 40 yards with that set up, and could shoot half dollar sized groups with it at that distance. How do you argue with that? Kirk