Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Mad Max on September 02, 2022, 07:40:46 AM
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What do you use, contact cement, and how to get it off around the leather?
It's always a issue for me trying to get it clocked in the right spot and remove the glue next to the leather.
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I put one coat of cement on the leather, let it dry, put another coat on and slap it on the riser wet.
It always dries and bonds fine.
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I put one coat of cement on the leather, let it dry, put another coat on and slap it on the riser wet.
It always dries and bonds fine.
None on the riser?
You can move it some if it's not clocked correct?
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None on the riser. The second wet coat provides the film that sticks to the riser. You don't get instant bonding, but its positional-able
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Will do :thumbsup:
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Mark, you should be able just rub off the excess glue around the strike plate with a dry finger.
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Well I use fuzzy side Velcro with sticky already on it sooo
Go to U tube and Big Jim has video on beaver tail install. He uses a glue eraser (hard rubber) I think
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I pretty much do what Buggs
and Pat do...
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Well I use fuzzy side Velcro with sticky already on it sooo
Go to U tube and Big Jim has video on beaver tail install. He uses a glue eraser (hard rubber) I think
I will watch that video again
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https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Leather-Crafting/Tools-Finishes/Barge-All-Purpose-Cement/p/25301?msclkid=834d8f8dfd1e19ab0dafec9fd8974b1b&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping-Catch%20All&utm_term=4579191055558000&utm_content=Crafts%20Hobbies-Leather%20Crafting
but..... i use the self adhesive Industrial velcro on all my bows like Mike does. I don't care for a leather strike personally.
Kirk
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I have been experimenting with UHMW self adhesive tape for strike plates. Very tough, slick material. I like that it is transparent and doesn’t cover up part of the bow. Way tougher than Teflon, but I’m still evaluating
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Well I use fuzzy side Velcro with sticky already on it sooo
Go to U tube and Big Jim has video on beaver tail install. He uses a glue eraser (hard rubber) I think
I watched the video and there is a lot of good info on there about contact cement and how to glue on a Beaver tail grip, he has done many of these so he know all the in's and out's. The glue eraser he uses if for contact cement he gets from a leather shop. I ordered one from Amazon (For contact cement) Thanks :bigsmyl:
Buggs, He waits on the second coat of glue at the back of the bow until he stitches the ends together wet like you said. :thumbsup:
It's a good video if anyone wants to watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfzuyDgYZTE
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Grips are a little tricky compared to a strike plate! I stopped trying to glue grips that are also stitched.
These days I take and coat the inside of the leather with 100% silicone, let it dry and then stitch on the grip.
If it's on nice and tight and you put a decent layer of silicone on, it will not move, no matter how hard you try to twist it.
I have been experimenting with UHMW self adhesive tape for strike plates. Very tough, slick material. I like that it is transparent and doesn’t cover up part of the bow. Way tougher than Teflon, but I’m still evaluating
Thats a great idea! The stuff is real slippery. Probably get more arrow speed too, with less friction.
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I have been experimenting with UHMW self adhesive tape for strike plates. Very tough, slick material. I like that it is transparent and doesn’t cover up part of the bow. Way tougher than Teflon, but I’m still evaluating
Is it quite like leather?
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I find it to be quiet, and Bugs said it is very slickery. It wears less than leather too. Very thin so less loss of dimension from center in the sight window.
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I made a lot of parts from UHMW back in the day for wear resistant on conveyors.
:bigsmyl:
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The material is no mystery to you then. I got into the self adhesive tape to protect the risers at the arrow pass on these horse bows. Vinyl tape wears thru in about 100 arrows. 1500 arrows and the UHMW shows no mechanical damage yet! :shaka:
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Joel that sounds awesome.
I'll need to try that.
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I've been using 3M ATG transfer tape on strike plates for years. Similar stuff can be found in the flooring section of home improvement stores. Lay the striker plate on the sticky side, cut around it precisely with scissors, peel and stick. No glue squeezing out. Quick, perfectly neat and stays indefinitely through any weather. If you want it off, just roll it off with your thumb.
For leather grips, I give em a quick shot of spray adhesive, except for the last 1/2" where I'll be stitching.
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The material is no mystery to you then. I got into the self adhesive tape to protect the risers at the arrow pass on these horse bows. Vinyl tape wears thru in about 100 arrows. 1500 arrows and the UHMW shows no mechanical damage yet! :shaka:
I had no idea they made it so thin- .005
I ordered some .015 thick, 3" wide (table is 6" wide) for my pattern sanding table to try.
Thanks for the info
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I've been using 3M ATG transfer tape on strike plates for years. Similar stuff can be found in the flooring section of home improvement stores. Lay the striker plate on the sticky side, cut around it precisely with scissors, peel and stick. No glue squeezing out. Quick, perfectly neat and stays indefinitely through any weather. If you want it off, just roll it off with your thumb.
For leather grips, I give em a quick shot of spray adhesive, except for the last 1/2" where I'll be stitching.
I've been using double sided tape in the bow room for years, what I get is made for holding insulation on metal buildings. less than .001 thick :thumbsup:
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Mark it didn't happen without pictures..
You know that:)
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Mark it didn't happen without pictures..
You know that:)
I use it for holding my riser down to the pattern sanding jigs and other things.
Put the tape on those pointy things to hold the wood blocks down to profile them. :tongue:
(https://i.imgur.com/3WFcz3o.jpg)
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Can you guys share more details about the heavy duty tape, like brand and item#? I could use some of that!
Thanks
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What one are you asking about?
I’m sure the double side tape I use would hold a leather strike plate on but getting it clocked would be a challenge
UHMW is good stuff, the bonding strength and thickness for strike plates would be key.
I’m guessing it will bend from the site window to arrow rest?
The double side tape I use is very strong and hard to separate the two pieces.
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https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065860/
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Can you guys share more details about the heavy duty tape, like brand and item#? I could use some of that!
Thanks
Buggs, I've used this for all different types of pattern sanding and assorted things. But never on strike plates. I prefer a Barge contact cement for strike plates because it holds well and the glue is easily removed without damaging the finish.
But.... this double sided tape is pretty good stuff. Kirk
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-16231/3M-Double-Sided-Tape/3M-CT-3010-Outdoor-Carpet-Tape-1-1-3-x-40
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Thanks :thumbsup:
I won't be using it for strike plates either. Mostly third hand stuff.
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They have assorted types of spray adhesive that is basically contact cement in a can that is a lot more user friendly than the double sided carpet tape.
I make a lot of my jigs using melamine covered MDF board. It’s pretty slippery stuff and works good for router jigs. But cleaning the sticky residue off the jigs from the double sided carpet tape is always a mess.
But ….the spray contact cement can be rubbed off just using your fingers after you pull it apart. I have got to where I use it more than double sided tape anymore just for that reason. Careful, quick, and kind….. Kirk
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I buy unborn calf hides ,calf hair its the best strike plate material . I install them with carpet tape the yellow reinforced kind looks like strapping tape but its double sided and it really sticks . Cut out your strike plate lay it on the tape and cut around it not messy like glue and stays on ,
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Ive used used suede,pigskin,beaver,seal,velcro to name a few--I just keep going back to no sideplate other than the riser...
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I like to use seal skin for the rest and the strike plate. I glue it on using gel super glue. After a dry fit, I put a few dabs of glue along the bottom edge and press it into place. Once it’s set, I’ll put more glue on the plate and press it into place.
Dave.
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I think the coolest strike plate material I’ve ever used is sting ray hide. I had a guy in Florida send me some. Personally I like a softer material. But that sting ray hide was very slick, and very durable. Has a very unique pattern to it too…. But it’s a hard thin material with no give to it. Probably work well for tuning stiff shafts.
Kirk
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I have split a match in half and placed it under whatever skin I use to make a smaller contact point for the arrow.
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I have split a match in half and placed it under whatever skin I use to make a smaller contact point for the arrow.
I do the same. Especially easy when using self stick velcro. It seems to stay sticky and goes back on. The bow I'm hunting this year has felt arra rest and strike plate glued on with duco.
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I have been experimenting with UHMW self adhesive tape for strike plates. Very tough, slick material. I like that it is transparent and doesn’t cover up part of the bow. Way tougher than Teflon, but I’m still evaluating
I'm going to try this, just bought some from the jungle store. Thanks for the suggestion.
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I put one coat of cement on the leather, let it dry, put another coat on and slap it on the riser wet.
It always dries and bonds fine.
Thanks for the info, it worked really nice :bigsmyl: :thumbsup:
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Good deal, glad it worked for you :thumbsup: