Just got curious about these fiberglass arrows after I had to contend with a problem yesterday. These arrows are very long (by my standards... 25" draw). I brought a Titan (3 piece take down) and some arrows on my current trip to Cleveland, but I ran into a real packing problem. Obviously, a 3 piece bow is no trouble, but finding a convenient piece of luggage for the arrows was a bear. I wanted a duffle 36" long, but 30" was all I could find in a hurry, and the fishing arrow wouldn't fit into it. Long story short... and arrow shorter... I cut it down to 27" by cutting the nock end off, then retapering on a Woodchuck tool, drilling a hole for the safety slide, and reassembling. Only drawback I can think of is that the arrow will be a bit lighter, but I'm interested in any comments...
Dick in Seattle, temporarily in Cleveland
Dick... I think most guys leave their fishing arrows full length for no good reason in particular. (perhaps because without a taper "grinder" it's tough to retaper solid fiberglass.)
Solid fiberglass fishing arrows are notoriously weak in spine and with my heavier bows and longer draw, I've always cut them down in length to improve spine.
You won't lose enough weight to matter... the dang thing still won't float. ;)
Charlie... I kind of figured the same. I think maybe they make them long because of all the guys out there with 30" draws... the one's whose bows I can never buy because I'd just barely be working the limbs. I have yet to take a shot at a fish, but I have hopes for this trip... gives me something to look forward to doing while my wife visits and shops...
Dick
Don't know for sure, but I'm guessing those 36-inch fiberglass rods are/were originally made for another purpose, and someone discovered they made good fishing arrows.
I always cut mine down. Don't like a lot of shaft hanging beyond the bow. Usually do it from the point end though, but how one does it is a matter of preference.
Hello, bowfish in illinois 8 months of the year with recurve. I have tried tuning a bowfising arrow and found that it is better just to leave it long and shoot it that way. Do want to try and get the nock right for shooting in water. I hate to say it but I would rather shoot 30" Buffalo and 6' Gar with my recurve than anything else. Maybe that is why I got a boat rigged just for it.
My problem is the exact opposite. I'd love to be able to cut mine down some to stiffen them, but with my DL, I can't. Most are offered at 32", and by the time I add an "outserted" fish head and slide assembly, I'm almost out of room. I use nock adapters to net an extra 1/2",which helps.
In a way, yours is a good problem to have when it comes to fish arrows. You have room to tune by trimming (if needed). Any weight lost would help more than hurt.
well, I wouldn't want to claim any great archery cleverness. I've always just assumed that fish arrows were untunable. My only goal was to fit it into the duffle bag! :^)
toddster... you're lucky you're in Illinois, or you'd find me camping on your doorstep! Maybe I can actually get one on this trip.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
well, I wouldn't want to claim any great archery cleverness. I've always just assumed that fish arrows were untunable. My only goal was to fit it into the duffle bag! :^)
Well, it would help in that way too :) . I wouldn't say they are completely untunable, but you really don't have many options due to limited point weights and arrows. I've found the regular white ones to be on the weak side, and the carbon fluted ones to be too stiff. About the only thing I can do is play with centershot/nock position, or change string material (going from FF to dacron can have a profound effect). Being able to trim them back would be very nice.
I have shortened mine for a while. It helps me draw to my anchor that way. I know I'm where I need to be when the tip is close to my knuckle. haven't noticed any flight or penetration problems.
Fiberglass shafts spine out around 45-50# on most scales full length and with my 27in draw and shooting normally in the low 50's I have to leave them full length to spine correctly off my bows, however, when I shot heavier recurves, I did have to trim them down a little to spine and fly better and yes you can bare shaft tune bowfishing arrows just like hunting arrows and you should for the best flight and consistency! Mark