Post by: Pointed_stick on June 10, 2022, 12:22:26 PM
I will try to get an image that shows what I am referring to later, but a question for those who work with glass. I sanded with 220 to scuff the surface, wiped with a dry rag, then with acetone to remove any dust before spraying finish. Most of the surface came back to a nice shiny black, the re are a few spots where there are some light gray specs etc. Is this residual sanding dust that was not removed most likely? or something else? Thank you
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Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on June 10, 2022, 12:36:20 PM
Another tip, go to an automotive paint store or somewhere on line and pick you up some Tack Cloths. They are used to wipe surfaces down right before you paint or clear. They a re very tacky and will pick up any dust or debris they touch. Will not leave residue harmful to paint either.
The brand I use is called Surgical Blue
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 10, 2022, 12:47:32 PM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 10, 2022, 10:35:38 PM
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Post by: Pointed_stick on June 10, 2022, 10:37:36 PM
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Post by: Pointed_stick on June 10, 2022, 10:40:09 PM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 10, 2022, 10:41:00 PM
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 08:04:30 AM
and the last picture is to extend the fades some?
How thick is the glass?
I've seen glass on the back and Horn on the belly before but not what you have, Where did you get the idea for glass and Ipe?
This is a bamboo backed Ipe bow
In the picture you can see a 1/8" thick I call it a power lam, it's 2" longer than the riser on both sides to keep the riser from popping off.
The power lam is 1/8" thick and the last 2" on each side are tapered to zero and it's in between the bamboo and the Ipe.
(https://i.imgur.com/uBFVJzV.jpg)
Post by: Buggs on June 11, 2022, 08:33:23 AM
The last pic looks like the riser is getting glued on?
Thats a confusing set of pictures. Maybe you could give some details about the sequence and materials used.
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 08:57:11 AM
It looks like black glass on back and no glass on belly side.
The last pic looks like the riser is getting glued on?
Thats a confusing set of pictures. Maybe you could give some details about the sequence and materials used.
I agree
Ipe is very good for the belly of a bow, I believe it will hold up to the Glass backing but not sure.
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 09:31:54 AM
It looks like black glass on back and no glass on belly side.It is .030 Black glass on the back, no glass on the belly. The last pic is the riser being glued, as in the sequence of the build I had cut the curve for the d-flex and used it when gluing the backing to the core. I kept them separated at that time knowing there would be some spring back after it was released from the form, the redefined the curve on the top of the riser block to more precisely match curve in the belly side of the bow that it would join to as the mating surface. So as not have the epoxy trying to bond a spring in place where the joint comes together. The pieces of maple on the fades are mostly an aesthetic detail so as to leave the alternating wood pattern exposed only on the sides.
The last pic looks like the riser is getting glued on?
Thats a confusing set of pictures. Maybe you could give some details about the sequence and materials used.
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Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 10:23:25 AM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 10:48:48 AM
You should be good with that 27# bow but for a 40/50# bow you need that power lam
Power lam will spread the force of the limb flex out away from the fades more?
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 11:08:07 AM
Where did you get the idea for glass and Ipe?
Already had a piece of black glass, and some ipe on hand without having to buy anything....and a concept was born. Not the most scientific approach, but finacially responsible. :biglaugh:
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 11:25:10 AM
You should be good with that 27# bow but for a 40/50# bow you need that power lam
Power lam will spread the force of the limb flex out away from the fades more?
Yes
Post by: mmattockx on June 11, 2022, 11:25:57 AM
It is .030 Black glass on the back, no glass on the belly.
I'm interested to hear how this works out. If any wood can survive on the belly with glass on the back it will be ipe. I like the maple underlays on the riser, cleans that up nicely.
Mark
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 11:57:04 AM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 03:54:25 PM
Put some wide masking tape on the belly, from tip to the fades and then brace the bow, if the tape wrinkles the belly is compressing, also masking tape on the back after bracing and then un brace it, if the tape has wrinkles it’s stretching . This may give you some idea what is going onInteresting suggestion, thank you
I can assume that in either scenario we would want no wrinkles in a perfect outcome...
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 03:58:33 PM
Thank you, and will be glad to keep you updated on any potential issues. I plan to shoot it a fair amount, and it is light enough draw my wife will probably get a bit of use out it as well. Is there a shot count by which we deem a combination a success? 1k, 2k....?It is .030 Black glass on the back, no glass on the belly.
I'm interested to hear how this works out. If any wood can survive on the belly with glass on the back it will be ipe. I like the maple underlays on the riser, cleans that up nicely.
Mark
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 04:00:13 PM
You WANT Wrinkles. That will tell you the bows is working
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 05:02:17 PM
Was it tapered, and how much?
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 05:25:30 PM
The back of bows stretch, and the belly compresses.
You WANT Wrinkles. That will tell you the bows is working
So I have used the tape test...only with 1 inch wide painters tape because it was here. braced, then unbraced, but not drawn. The back is not showing much for wrinkles, the belly shows more particularly in the wider part of the limbs toward the fades. I would imagine have the relfex in the tips has an effect on the movement of the outer portion of the limbs without drawing the bow and this would be logical?
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 05:55:13 PM
Post by: Mad Max on June 11, 2022, 09:41:08 PM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 11, 2022, 10:15:22 PM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 14, 2022, 05:42:09 PM
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Post by: Mad Max on June 14, 2022, 10:21:29 PM
Edit--New pic.
(https://i.imgur.com/HUmQW97.jpg)
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 15, 2022, 08:34:59 AM
Bending to much at the fade on top limb and has some flat spots on both
Edit--New pic.
(https://i.imgur.com/HUmQW97.jpg)
Exactly what I need to know, thank you. Should they be even, or should the top limb only be showing half as much due to a tillering difference between the top and bottom limbs for split/3 under shooting etc? All info I have seen suggests a wider gap at the fades to the string for the top limb when the bow is brace which would translate to something that looks like this when drawn....to be fair I watch a lot of Clay Hayes self bow builds.
Post by: Mad Max on June 15, 2022, 09:12:41 AM
Make yourself a Tiller gizmo for the next one..........https://www.3riversarchery.com/blog/how-to-make-and-use-eric-krewsons-tillering-gizmo/
How thick is the Ipe on that bow??
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 15, 2022, 09:33:42 AM
Post by: Longcruise on June 15, 2022, 10:32:21 AM
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 15, 2022, 10:46:36 AM
I thought it looked like it's bending too much at the fades top and bottom. Hard to tell. Hard to match the ellipse to photo angle. Maybe map it?
Could you offer some insight on how the mapping is done?
Post by: Mad Max on June 15, 2022, 12:16:03 PM
At the riser it measures .356 in., and tapers down to .235 in. at the tips
With it that thick it should be more than 27#.
I wouldn’t do any thing more to that bow
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 15, 2022, 12:58:20 PM
At the riser it measures .356 in., and tapers down to .235 in. at the tips
With it that thick it should be more than 27#.
I wouldn’t do any thing more to that bow
It would be safe to say the overall length, width of the limbs, and taper in the other direction are playing a role in the draw weight of the bow. The thickness of the ipe is just 1 part of the formula.
Post by: Shredd on June 15, 2022, 09:51:30 PM
[/quote]
Could you offer some insight on how the mapping is done?
[/quote]
This is how I map limbs... I got 3 Tiller sticks... I think they are 16, 20 and 24" long... Get you a roll of paper from the art/craft store... 12 to 16 " wide... Rip off a sheet about 36" and tape the corners to the table... Put a piece of tape where your fades are on your bow for a reference point... Brace your bow and lay it flat on it's side on the paper... Put a mark on the paper where your fade is and put a mark at the base of your tip overlay... Push your limb dow to the paper being careful not to distort its shape... Trace the back side of the limb on the paper... Make sure to trace about 6" past the fade mark... Lift up bow and draw a verticle line about 2" long where your fade mark is... Flip bow over and put it on the paper and compare bottom to the shape of top limb drawn on paper... Do this with each tiller stick staggering each line about an 1/8"... Make a light box to put your drawings on and you can compare limb shapes from other bows...
Post by: Shredd on June 15, 2022, 10:04:15 PM
start gently flattening out... And pretty flat for the last 4 to 5"...
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-contour-gauge-58311.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=132281648786&adsetid=132281648786&product=58311&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhqaVBhCxARIsAHK1tiNYFRh9EyhJpIU8U__kWiig19exOtPvP7bwI_Z_Mg73WliJ4aYY6HAaAqUxEALw_wcB
Post by: Mad Max on June 15, 2022, 10:29:44 PM
[/quote]
It would be safe to say the overall length, width of the limbs, and taper in the other direction are playing a role in the draw weight of the bow. The thickness of the ipe is just 1 part of the formula.
[/quote]
I've made Bamboo Backed Ipe before, so I am use to Ipe
The glass backing may not be doing its job
Post by: Pointed_stick on June 15, 2022, 11:49:48 PM