I am thinking I need a new Bow, which is quiet and still has decent speed. :archer: I draw 26" and want a bow to shoot Fast but also to control the shot which should I try and yes I have shot the acs bow and a older das The ACS seemed to dray with early weight. are the new limbs on the das as good as the old limbs
Gord: you can put any ILF limbs you like on a DAS. All you have to do is replace the ILF bushings with DAS bushings, which are available from the DAS site. It takes a bit of handywork, but even I was able to do it, so that means anyone can do it. You can no longer order bows from David; you'll have to get either the riser or the complete bow from 3Rivers, depending on whether you want to upgrade limbs or not. The 3Rivers limbs are not the Winnex limbs that came on David's high end Master model. I have not shot an ACS, by all accounts very nice bows, but if you get a DAS, follow the instructions EXACTLY when setting it up, as it is not your ordinary recurve. Unless you have shot and tuned ILF recurves before, don't take anything for granted or assume anything; follow the manual. The DAS is a work of art and David is a first-rate guy who stands behind his product all the way. I doubt you could go wrong with either bow. Paul.
i have only very limited experience with the das but i own an acs. they are all that they are advertised. smooth, quiet, fast and they shoot so flat its unbeleivable. i guess it boils down to if you want a longbow or a recurve. im sure both will give you mind blowing performance!
I have a 32# DAS that shoots as fast as my 51# ACS did. DAS shooting a 10.4 GPP arrow and the ACS was shooting a 8 GPP arrow. I sold the ACS the same week I got it.
You can also safely shoot as light as 6 GPP arrow with a DAS if you want amazing speed.
I have a VERY hard time believing that a DAS that is 19 pounds lighter and shooting a arrow 2.4 gpp jeavier would be faster. I gaurentee you were the victim of a faulty Chrono. No question about it!
I have to say that the DAS bow my wife has outshoots other bows at the same draw length/weight by a lot. One of the advantages of the DAS bow is that you can set the preload for a short draw and still get the same kind of performance from a similar weight bow with a longer draw length. DAS bows are perfect for short draws without giving up performance.
How do you set the preload on the
DAS for a short draw length?
Pat B
You would want the short limbs and tighten the limb adjustment bolt down to the max adjustment for short draws.That is the real beauty of the DAS system.One bow with three different length limbs and an adjustment range between,allows the bow to be fitted to anyone.
In the past some people haven't understood the system.If a short draw guy tries a bow set up for long draw, he won't get the performance.On the other hand if a long draw guy tries a DAS set up for a short draw guy,it won't be nearly as smooth and stable.
I should have not said "guarantee" for one I spelled it wrong and its also a harsh word, there is a chance I guess but its really hard to believe.
If Chickenlittle said she was hit in the head with a hail stone we might have believed her. AND we might have believed a DAS at 32 lbs and 8 gpp beat an ACS at 10 gpp, but the sky started falling in this thread.
Bowmania
I've owned and or shot all the big name bows. I owned a DAS and really liked it. I shot better than I ever have before owning the DAS. I liked how you could adjust the poundage and tiller to your specs. Some of are best local shooters use DAS bows. DAS is not the only choice for a metal risered ILF bow, with a little research you can find some other highly rated bows. My friend just got a new ACS CX from a and h archery. I shot it for about 30 minutes with a variety of arrows and liked it. It was fast but not faster than my DAS recurve. It was quiet but so was my DAS. It had just a hint of vibration, handshock would be too harsh of a word but it was not dead in the hand. The DAS is totally dead in the hand and real pointable. I would save yourself several hundred dollars and get a DAS you won't be sorry.
All I know is my das has a light set of limbs.
(28# on a 25" riser) and they max out at 32# on my Master Hunter 17" riser. It shoots a GT 600 with 125gr point at 184fps with a 28" draw.
My ACS CX at 51# at 28" would only get 180fps with an arrow that was right at 8gpp.
To be fair I have owned an ACS that performed better, but was still not as fast as my das.
With my heavier (46#) limbs I can get 225fps with 8gpp of arrow.
Pat: The preload is a function of limb weight and how close to having the limb as close to their optimum draw weight. In other words....my wife's bow maximum weight is about 46# at 26". When she has be drop the bow weight she looses the maximum performance simply because she is not getting all the energy out of the limb and the loss in performance, most noticable in cast, is palpable. We set her bow up for 41# for her indoor shooting and when she took it outside her point on was different. I gave the limb bolts a full turn so she is now closer to 43# and performance is improved because the stress (preload) on the limbs is greater. If I had limbs that maxed out at 50# and lowered the weight to her 46# her bow would shoot better because the 50# limbs have would lost a bunch of their preload.
As the summer progresses and we set up her bow closer to its max in preperation for hunting she will be getting maximum performance from those limbs. The first animal she shot with that bow was a mature black bear shooting a 500 grain carbon arrow with a four blade Phantom head. She got a pass thru and a 30 yard recovery. Hope this helps.
Bill & RH, so the greater the preload, having the limb bolts maxed out, the better the performance from a given set of limbs?? So one should get limbs that you have to max out to get the best performance?
"If I had limbs that maxed out at 50# and lowered the weight to her 46# her bow would shoot better because the 50# limbs have would lost a bunch of their preload."
Bill, is the above statement from your post correct ??
Bill:
"I gave the limb bolts a full turn so she is now closer to 43# and performance is improved because the stress (preload) on the limbs is greater."
I'm a little confused about that also. Call it "preload" if you will but in actuality have you just not made it a heavier bow? Are you saying that if I took 42# limbs and cranked them down so they were 45# at my draw length, they would somehow perform differently than if I took 48# limbs and and backed them out so they would be 45# at my draw weight.
45# is 45#, is it not? I don't see where you are getting more performance out of the same limbs, you are just making them heavier.
Am I missing something?
Lenny
Pat B.
You are correct within a certin range.You would not want to put max preload on a set of short limbs and then draw them to 31".They may not explode but they would lose much of their stability and you would find the bow twitchy or more easily effected by any little release mistake.
IMHO any limb performs it's best just before it starts to stack.If you had a short 25" draw and put max preload on a set of shorts,you would be much closer to that point than a set of longs with min preload.Both sets of limbs might draw 50# at your 25" but the shorts would perform better.
Remember though that I'm talking in small percentages,not earth shattering differences,but in the trad world 10fps is big.
WinEx shorts on a short riser at 31" will blow up sooner or later. That little test cost me $500.
Thanks Mr. Morrison for that input.Sorry about your loss,but thanks for experimenting.
I should have said may or may not explode.I think David put a safe limit of 12 pounds above marked limb weight at full draw.That would be the marked weight on a 25" riser I assume.
Mr.Morrison
Any stats on how much thoes shorts gained at 31" above marked weight before they blew?
Lenny
Hey guys remember a limb rated at say #40 pounds has less mass and weight as say a #50 pound limb. Therefor if both sets are tested at #40 the lighter set will outperform the heavier set.