Post by: wcasey755 on April 03, 2022, 01:37:09 AM
Post by: Flem on April 03, 2022, 09:26:37 AM
Post by: Mad Max on April 03, 2022, 09:32:57 AM
What are you getting, Take down, 1 piece long bow or recurve?
Lots of people start with a binghams
Post by: Dannon on April 03, 2022, 10:03:30 AM
Post by: Flem on April 03, 2022, 10:14:59 AM
Hell, with that kit you still have to purchase and build your own form, plus pay for shipping.
Post by: Mad Max on April 03, 2022, 10:51:01 AM
I did Max. I would be happy to put together all the materials listed and ship them off for $400.
Hell, with that kit you still have to purchase and build your own form, plus pay for shipping.
What about the form shape and stack chart
Post by: Flem on April 03, 2022, 10:54:22 AM
Post by: Stagmitis on April 03, 2022, 10:57:17 AM
First Step: Buy the basic materials wherever you can get them to build your first bow.
Second Step: Buy a bag of Lays Potato Chips and pretend the bag is full of bows "No one can build just one " :biglaugh:
Third Step: Everyone new to bowbuilding makes mistakes: Embrace that and look at each failure as a
positive for your next build!
Post by: Longcruise on April 03, 2022, 11:38:57 AM
"There's a lot of things they didn’t tell me when I bought this Bingham kit!" :biglaugh:
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
That's not to discourage you but it's just a fact. Bingham is a good outfit and they sell quality materials. There's nothing wrong with there designs. You can purchase their basic component kits and then rely on this forum for your support group.
You can also visit Kenny's website and get your supplies there. Kenny is a one man support group all by himself! Plus, he hangs out here regularly and is seemingly always available.
Post by: wcasey755 on April 03, 2022, 02:02:48 PM
Post by: wcasey755 on April 03, 2022, 02:09:14 PM
Post by: Mad Max on April 03, 2022, 02:39:13 PM
The binghams appealed to me because it came with basically everything except the plywood for the form and box. Even the temp gauge.
Sounds like a plan :thumbsup:
Post by: Mad Max on April 03, 2022, 02:39:47 PM
So is 400 for the binghams all in one kit overpriced? Im planning to build a one piece longbow. On the difficulty scale is that the best to start with?
Yes
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 03, 2022, 03:25:44 PM
Basically their prints and fire hose and form kit. Watch the video several times and then let it digest and go back a day or 2 later.
I used a temp controller from Amazon that is programmable and is only about 35 bucks.
When you are building your form, and you are ready to drill your stop pins, tape the top of the phenolic so it does not splinter with you.
Just take your time and ask all the questions you want! Trust me, none are stupid questions.
Post by: Dannon on April 03, 2022, 03:54:07 PM
The binghams appealed to me because it came with basically everything except the plywood for the form and box. Even the temp gauge.
The plywood is going to cost you as much as the kit! I looked at a sheet of 3/4” today and it was over $80!
Just a tip: when making your hot box make it probably 4-5” wider than your Bingham plans call for. When gluing up risers with accents I can barely fit it in my box because of the c clamps I’m using.
Post by: Flem on April 03, 2022, 04:49:08 PM
X3 works out to around 36grams of glue per bow. I usually mix up around 100grams for a 3 lam and always have a bit left in the pot, plus plenty of squeeze out.
Post by: Robertfishes on April 03, 2022, 08:18:58 PM
Post by: Mad Max on April 03, 2022, 10:06:45 PM
Like many others...I started building Binghams 58" one piece recurve. Then got KennyM One piece longbow plans. Then started building ILF limbs.. Unless your a fan of the Hill style bow I would recommend you start with a modern style longbow. I don't know what the value of the "All in One" kit is...if you were to buy each piece separately it would likely be the same or maybe a little cheaper?? Binghams has been around for a long time and many a bowyer started building buying their bow plans. I never go cheap when building bow forms, I want my forms to hold up to being heated up to 180 degrees, but most builds got to 160-165 degrees..I prefer using cabinet grade plywood and I never had a problem with a form warping. For me building bows is a hobby, cheaper than some hobbies but more than others..
X2
Post by: wcasey755 on April 04, 2022, 12:26:40 AM
Post by: KenH on April 04, 2022, 11:29:19 AM
Post by: Kirkll on April 04, 2022, 01:08:08 PM
To answer you question, there are many many ways to screw up even the most simple bow design. The most important thing to remember when getting started is the forms you build need to be very precise with everything exactly square edged, and both ends of the one piece design need to match perfectly. You need to build a router template and shape both ends with the same template.
I would recommend this type material for your forms rather than laminated plywood. This first one is Paralam material.
https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/woodproducts/engineered-lumber/parallam-psl/parallam-psl-beams/
This one Is LVL material
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/trusses-i-joists-engineered-lumber/laminated-veneer-lumber-lvl-strand-lumber/1-3-4-x-11-1-4-lvl-1-9e/1063466/p-1444438526858-c-5663.htm?tid=-3058927007803359705&ipos=6
After building forms with this stuff, I would never go back to plywood.
Warning! This bow building is VERY addictive. I fell in love with the whole process much more than archery itself. Kirk
Post by: Buemaker on April 04, 2022, 01:15:41 PM
Post by: Kirkll on April 04, 2022, 01:41:17 PM
What is the difference between LVL and laminated plywood??
The difference is stability and strength. The LVL is built for strength without any blows or hollow spots found in plywood. That and you don’t have to worry about twist….. a twisted bow form is a nightmare. Kirk
Post by: Robertfishes on April 04, 2022, 05:37:55 PM
Post by: Kirkll on April 04, 2022, 07:11:38 PM
Some of my one piece laminated plywood forms I built years ago developed a slight twist in them over time. I straightened a couple of them and edge banded them using a piece of angle iron to straighten them and hold it straight. Nothing worse than starting out with twisted limbs right out of the form.
I went to a lumber yard that sells quite a bit of this stuff and was able to purchase a couple of 12” x 18’ pieces and they cut it to 6’ lengths. I still have about 12’ left.
I discontinued most of my one piece bows due to demand except the Flatliner & Stealth designs . That form is about 12 years old and needs to be rebuilt. I figured the next order I get for one, I’ll roll up my sleeves and mill a new form.
When I do that I’ll post a form build a long just for fun.
Btw…. On forms for 1.5” glass and lam width using this 1.75” LVL material I just take a router and mill the edge of the cut out on the bottom form so I can zip tie my 1.5” stack centered up, and leave the top form at 1.75”. Much easier to keep my air hose centered. I haven’t tried sanding off a 1/4” thickness in my drum sander. Didn’t see the need to. Kirk
Post by: JGR1269 on April 04, 2022, 07:22:32 PM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 05, 2022, 06:48:46 AM
Post by: Mad Max on April 05, 2022, 08:09:54 AM
Kirk, have you ever had any issues with the zip ties? I was wondering if you could feel where they were in the lams due to a pressure spot on each ty wrap ?
I use zip ties all the time
I use a pressure strip, it's a .029 piece of sheet metal on top of the stack.
I think Big Jim's bow company has them :thumbsup:
https://bigjimsbowcompany.com/product/20-ga-steel-pressure-strip-2/
Post by: Stagmitis on April 05, 2022, 09:48:27 AM
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 10:08:28 AM
Kirk, have you ever had any issues with the zip ties? I was wondering if you could feel where they were in the lams due to a pressure spot on each ty wrap ?
Like Max said above. You load your lams, put your pressure strip over them, THEN use your zip ties. Oh Ive screwed up a couple times in the past and put the ties right on my glass before, and had perfect zip tie indentations on my limbs. These make great tomato stakes though…. :knothead:
I’ve also found there is a fine line between using cheap zip ties, and the heavy duty ones….the cheap ones strip out too easy trying to pull a recurve limb in tight to the form, and the seriously heavy zip ties are tough to work with. Finding just the right ones make it easier.
When I was first getting started we all used to use flat washers on the edge of our forms to hold the lams straight. And that works ok if you are just using pressure strips and an air hose clamping system in a hot box. Or even the peg and inner tubing type clamping system in a hot box….. but I quickly moved to using heat strips after the first year of building bows.
The heat strips we used 10- 15 years ago were flexible silicone strips that plugged in to 110. Unfortunately they were not cheap, and they burn out or broke to easily, and the manufacturer wouldn’t warranty them after awhile. I used to distribute them myself until they wouldn’t stand behind their product….
The next step was an innovative bowyer I knew built some low voltage heat strips himself and I ran those prototypes for awhile hoping to build a better mouse trap.
But those were too fragile and didn’t hold up well. Oh they worked perfectly….. but we’re not dependable.
Then Brandon Stahl from Rose Oak Creations came up with a system using 22 gage stainless steel pressure strips and hooking them up to a battery charger with a voltage regulator for temp control. I think that was about 2014… can’t remember
Exactly …. maybe 2013. This system works excellent and I’ve used it ever since.
Your pressure strips ARE your heat strips, and cure a set of limbs or a bow in less than an hour…… but….. and there always seems to be a lot of butts in life. This system is serious battery charger abuse, and the chargers only last so long. I get about 100 bows out of one before they go boots up…… Another issue is finding the right kind of charger is getting harder to do. You need one with manual adjustment capabilities. These new electronic ones with the automatic safety features won’t work at all. They are built so you cannot over load them, and that slight overload is what gives you the heat.
Last year I really had to look hard to find one that would work, and paid a couple hundred bucks for it too. I really like this system, but wouldn’t mind if some innovative bowyer would come up with something better.
I know they use nichrome in silicone heat strips, and there should be a way to build something durable enough to meet our needs, but nobody has. I haven’t looked into it real seriously, and probably won’t until I’m forced to do so…..
Kirk
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 10:15:17 AM
Kirk I had a bad experience with LVL forms and so did a friend. I unfortunately built several bows :knothead: before I and he figured it out. In both cases they develped an almost imperceptable propeller twist- Im anal about string alignment and could never get them right
Ah man ….. I’m sorry to hear that bro. I don’t believe the material I bought was actually LVL brand. I think it was made by warehouser and called paralam material. I haven’t had any issues and I have forms that are 5-6 years old and built a lot of limbs.
Having a form twist is about the worst thing that can happen to a guy. Especially just a slight twist that goes unnoticed. I’ll look into the brand I used again to make sure I got it right. Thanks for sharing that bro…. Kirk
Post by: Flem on April 05, 2022, 10:23:06 AM
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 10:57:36 AM
Kirk, you might try a PC power supply. They can be set up for various DC voltage and amps outputs. Plus they can be had for cheap or free. I have one I converted to bench top power supply and use it for all kinds of projects.
The variable voltage power supply is not the issue bro…I’ve got a decent DC control box….. .it’s finding a heating element material that is flexible enough, and will hold up to 50-60 psi with an air hose that can be used with a pressure strip. They still sell those silicone heat strips, but they don’t last long at all.
The stainless steel pressure strip system I use works excellent, but it’s seriously tough on battery chargers. I use a 10 amp rated AC voltage regulator to run the charger at lower voltage and control the temp. It typically runs at about 42 volts on 2 - 36” x 1.75” strips. It takes a bit higher voltage on the 6’ one piece strips.
The only thing that needs to be done with using a battery charger at low voltage is that you need to wire the cooling fan direct to 110 or you’ll burn it up.
Kirk
Post by: Stagmitis on April 05, 2022, 11:15:04 AM
I ran it through my sander on both sides to get from 1.75 to get to 1.5, in turn invading the contigious exterior laminations!
Maybe you you had no issues because as you suggested you used a router to get the width leaving the exterior intact.
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 05, 2022, 12:27:11 PM
I used to hook a welder to a homemade tire groover that used hacksaw blades. Just control the heat with the settings
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 01:56:48 PM
Kirk I jogged my memory in setting up the LVL form
I ran it through my sander on both sides to get from 1.75 to get to 1.5, in turn invading the contigious exterior laminations!
Maybe you you had no issues because as you suggested you used a router to get the width leaving the exterior intact.
You know something..... You may have something there bro... I don't have many 1.5" glass forms any more, so very little need for narrow forms. I'm running 1.75" glass on all my TD limbs now even though i could go to 1.5" on the long bows.
I get better consistency in my glass strength buying 20-40 pcs at a time and watching how i cut it up. It would be even better to buy directly from Gordon Glass by the 100 count. But i dont build that many bows any more to justify those quantities.
For you guys buying PB glass by the roll.... i don't see how you hit your draw weights consistently. I never had much luck with BP glass myself. If i was mass producing economy priced bows, i could see using the stuff and just mark draw weight as they come out. and stack em up...
Kirk
Post by: Flem on April 05, 2022, 03:39:39 PM
Most heating wires and tape run on 120V, why are you using DC?
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 07:01:48 PM
Kirk,how many amps are you pulling when heating?. Have you tried nichrome strips?
Most heating wires and tape run on 120V, why are you using DC?
No I haven’t tried nichrome strips, and I don’t have a good reason why I’m using DC voltage.
This system was introduced to me, and I ran with it. Here is my set up. I typically adjust the voltage regulator to between 47-48 dc amps. This is running 50 amps in the photo.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HTXBr7Cqzq36uN2o6
Kirk
Post by: BO-R on April 05, 2022, 07:32:53 PM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 05, 2022, 07:37:34 PM
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 08:47:49 PM
Kirk, how do you regulate the heat? Just with the voltage and then it will only heat to X with X amount of current?
You got it bro.... The voltage regulator setting at about 42 volts produce about 160 to 170 degrees. At the 10 amp setting on the charger, i set the timer for 60 minutes. The temp comes up slowly in about 30-40 minutes to 160 and cooks for 20 minutes at that temp. I have to wait until the temp drops below 90 degrees before i can take the limbs out and load it up again. I can easily do 3 pairs of limbs in a day if i have all the mill work and lams ready to rock..... But i don't work that hard any more. But its nice to be able to roll up my sleeves and get a bow kicked out quickly if needed. I can spend more time on the craftmanship, and finish that way.
Kirk
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 08:52:19 PM
Kirk I jogged my memory in setting up the LVL form
I ran it through my sander on both sides to get from 1.75 to get to 1.5, in turn invading the contigious exterior laminations!
Maybe you you had no issues because as you suggested you used a router to get the width leaving the exterior intact.
I just dug out some stock i have and this was LVL material. I believe they treat this stuff to seal it. I've had this stuff for years and its still dead straight and flat. Kirk
https://photos.app.goo.gl/W8aJL2p8VAaMuwmw7
Post by: Flem on April 05, 2022, 09:42:11 PM
So you are sending 42V AC to the charger and its trying to push out 10amps at 12V?
Are the stainless plates taco'd around the limbs?
Sorry for all the questions, but it's really interesting!
Post by: Kirkll on April 05, 2022, 10:18:49 PM
I was checking out the pics, but did not see the battery charger?
So you are sending 42V AC to the charger and its trying to push out 10amps at 12V?
Are the stainless plates taco'd around the limbs?
Sorry for all the questions, but it's really interesting!
OOOOPS! Wrong link... Here ya go.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PgGXwR6Hk6mJVpt79
Post by: Mad Max on April 06, 2022, 08:28:48 AM
What temperature are you getting on the stack?
Post by: OldRawhide42 on April 06, 2022, 10:26:48 AM
Post by: Flem on April 06, 2022, 10:27:26 AM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 06, 2022, 10:53:51 AM
Post by: Flem on April 06, 2022, 11:11:01 AM
Post by: Kirkll on April 06, 2022, 11:14:43 AM
Kirk
What temperature are you getting on the stack?
I use two 22 gage SS strips. One stays on the form and is actually glued in place. The glass is wrapped in thin painters plastic and goes right on top of the SS , and another on top. It’s held in place with zip ties. I use between 50-55# pressure in my air hose bringing the pressure up slowly to squeeze excess epoxy out uniformly. Too fast and things like to move on you.
The temp slowly rises to 160 degrees in 30-40 minutes time using the 10 amp setting on the charger. Then I let it cook for another 20 minutes. This epoxy is fully hard in 20 minutes @ 160 degrees.
To address the DC vs AC question…. Im not going to pretend to fully understand the specific details of how this works. My education as an electrician is limited to wiring houses and changing out breaker panels and installing upgraded service bases. I have no training or schooling in the electrical field.
Using DC voltage this way is basically shorting out the circuit at lower voltage and creating heat…. DC voltage is safer than AC in this regard. If you hooked up leads like this using AC voltage with no insulation on the strips you would most likely light yourself up, and pop your circuit breaker trying….., could it be done? I’m sure it can…. But I have no clue how to do it safely. An electrical engineer would need to be consulted. My knowledge of electrical theory is very limited. Kirk
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 06, 2022, 12:28:15 PM
Yes current is the killer, but with a floating secondary, you are much safer.
By nature of the DC circuit, the negative is not tied to earth ground, so if you touch it , it has no path. Now hold a lead in each hand and that is a different story. AC would work, but it would have to have an Isolation transformer for the grounding reason.
Now, strap that puppy to a self bow form for hickory, turn up the juice and do a "fire" hardened back on a hickory bow!
Now that's an idea! :archer2:
Post by: mmattockx on April 06, 2022, 12:34:41 PM
Now, strap that puppy to a self bow form for hickory, turn up the juice and do a "fire" hardened back on a hickory bow!
I don't know how hot Kirk's setup goes, but you need much hotter than 160F to heat treat the belly wood on a selfbow. I've done experiments with pieces of red oak in the oven and they don't even start to change colour until over 350F. I do like the idea for the temperature control and consistency, though. That should be much better than using hot coals or a heat gun.
Mark
Post by: Flem on April 06, 2022, 01:14:23 PM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on April 06, 2022, 01:46:52 PM
Joking aside, caution must always be used around any kind of electricity.
Been in Industrial maintenance with 3 phase high wattage heaters and 500+ HP DC motors for over 30 years! Actually got a degree in the stuff. Arc flash is no joke . Not discounting the danger in any means.
But with an ungrounded neutral you could touch any leg and still be ok. DC chargers usually give you that. Household AC with no isolation transformer and you become the path from ANY touch to any thing grounded!
Either scenario, AC or DC here could hurt you if you get crossed up wrong in it.
It only takes 50mA of current across your heart to stop your heart. From one hand to the other across your chest is the most dangerous shock you can receive.
We were also taught that the rapid cycling of the AC causes more damage to muscles and organs due to fribulation than direct current which gives one contraction for the duration of the shock.
Post by: Kirkll on April 06, 2022, 02:34:31 PM
Until someone comes up with a better idea, i plan on staying with this heat strip system. i'm going to contact a guy that has some knowledge building battery chargers that Max referred me to for suggestions on future power supply. I figure i'm good for another 70 bows on this charger before it sneezes and pukes.... :biglaugh:
Post by: Flem on April 06, 2022, 08:25:04 PM
Still will be avoiding it.
I do like the heat strip idea, its appears to be really efficient. The delivery system is what seems screwy. Maybe somebody can set me straight as to why a variable output DC transformer would not work better? I guessing the actual output of the battery charger is not known, but it's got to be less that the dial indicates or the voltage regulator would be redundant.
Post by: Kirkll on April 07, 2022, 10:28:25 AM
Post by: Flem on April 07, 2022, 11:16:54 AM
If the charger was putting out the correct amount of juice at the 10amps @ 12VDC setting, you would not need the AC regulator, correct? You are using two devices to achieve the same goal and apparently, regularly burning one up in the process. But unless you actually measure the output of the charger when the input volts are choked down, we will never know the actual power requirements of the heat strips to achieve the temperature goal.
Post by: KenH on April 07, 2022, 01:46:20 PM
You certainly don't need all that crud to build your first -- or your 50th bow.
Post by: Stagmitis on April 07, 2022, 02:07:10 PM
Post by: OldRawhide42 on April 07, 2022, 05:11:57 PM
Post by: wcasey755 on April 07, 2022, 05:21:13 PM
Boy this went down the rabbit hole warp speed! Poor Casey, I hope he still has interest in building a bow :dunno:
HAHA I love the tech talk! Flem is currently lining me out with all the info I need! I will be placing my order tonight!
Post by: Kirkll on April 07, 2022, 07:48:59 PM
All this AC/DC electrical heated stuff is why I will stick to open top forms with bicycle innertube bands and ambient heat. All that other stuff is just too much to muck about with, just to force epoxy to set in something less than a day. I've got other, better things to spend my money and time on.
You certainly don't need all that crud to build your first -- or your 50th bow.
Hey Ken,
You are absolutely right…. There is no “Need” about it. You can certainly build bows with the inner tube clamping system and wrestle that 60 pound form into a hot box. Or…. You could just let the epoxy cure at room temperature too if you want…. To each , his own….
But once you start doing this professionally, consistently is critical. When using heat strips, you can control the exact amount of heat, (or real close) every time and instead of taking two days to build a set of limbs, it takes two hours and you are saving time and money. The air hose clamping system with consistent heat also helps you hit your draw weights more accurately.
Most guys start out with a basic Binghams projects hot box and cook their bows or limbs with light bulbs. It works just fine too…. But the thing a lot of guys don’t think about is they are cooking their forms too…. Over and over again, this takes a toll on forms. The full length 6’ forms begin to twist after while with all that heating and cooling off action….
With heat strips you put your form in a vise and it stays there until you are done with it. It’s really nice actually…..Then again…. I build a lot of bows each year, so these things are more important to me than a guy building just a few here and there.
Kirk
Post by: OldRawhide42 on April 07, 2022, 08:37:59 PM
Post by: Flem on April 07, 2022, 09:27:52 PM
Its a great idea though. If I was a hose and form guy, like most here, I would be getting dialed on this. Its the most efficient use of heat and you have one part of the assembly doing two jobs.
I thinking of other uses for a setup like Kirks and I'm pretty sure it can be done on the cheap :thumbsup:
Post by: Kirkll on April 07, 2022, 11:27:42 PM
Boy this went down the rabbit hole warp speed! Poor Casey, I hope he still has interest in building a bow :dunno:
HAHA I love the tech talk! Flem is currently lining me out with all the info I need! I will be placing my order tonight!
Glad to see post again Casey…. I was beginning to think we scared ya off and hijacked your thread… :o :o
Once ya get started you should do a build along with photos on your progress. It would be fun to see it come together…. Kirk
Post by: wcasey755 on April 08, 2022, 01:32:22 PM
Boy this went down the rabbit hole warp speed! Poor Casey, I hope he still has interest in building a bow :dunno:
HAHA I love the tech talk! Flem is currently lining me out with all the info I need! I will be placing my order tonight!
Glad to see post again Casey…. I was beginning to think we scared ya off and hijacked your thread… :o :o
Once ya get started you should do a build along with photos on your progress. It would be fun to see it come together…. Kirk
Im currently talking with Kenny to order my parts. I mentioned to Flem about documenting the process. for entertainment as well as guidance! It should be able to go up quickly as im on leave from work for the whole month. so I have spare time. However I certainly wont be rushing anything.
Post by: wcasey755 on April 08, 2022, 01:35:52 PM
Boy this went down the rabbit hole warp speed! Poor Casey, I hope he still has interest in building a bow :dunno:
HAHA I love the tech talk! Flem is currently lining me out with all the info I need! I will be placing my order tonight!
Glad to see post again Casey…. I was beginning to think we scared ya off and hijacked your thread… :o :o
Once ya get started you should do a build along with photos on your progress. It would be fun to see it come together…. Kirk
Kirk, I did a little stalking and noticed you are in Oregon. Are you by chance anywhere near the Washington border?
Post by: Longcruise on April 08, 2022, 01:51:38 PM
Boy this went down the rabbit hole warp speed! Poor Casey, I hope he still has interest in building a bow :dunno:
HAHA I love the tech talk! Flem is currently lining me out with all the info I need! I will be placing my order tonight!
Glad to see post again Casey…. I was beginning to think we scared ya off and hijacked your thread… :o :o
Once ya get started you should do a build along with photos on your progress. It would be fun to see it come together…. Kirk
I concur.
Also suggest that rather than follow the typical "here it is, what I did today", with photos of your success or misfortunes you post in advance of your next stage and see what suggestions follow. Finding out after the fact what you coulda shoulda done will be very helpful on your next bow but better to make this one as good as possible.
Post by: Kirkll on April 08, 2022, 03:01:04 PM
Quote
Kirk, I did a little stalking and noticed you are in Oregon. Are you by chance anywhere near the Washington border?
I’m about 30 miles south of Portland, 9 miles south of Oregon City on the east side of the river.
Kirk
Post by: wcasey755 on April 08, 2022, 03:13:58 PM
QuoteKirk, I did a little stalking and noticed you are in Oregon. Are you by chance anywhere near the Washington border?
I’m about 30 miles south of Portland, 9 miles south of Oregon City on the east side of the river.
Kirk
Im right next to vancouver if you ever want to offer lessons!
Post by: Flem on April 09, 2022, 09:17:14 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on April 09, 2022, 09:33:17 AM
:laughing:
Post by: Kirkll on April 09, 2022, 11:03:06 AM
He's a geezer like a lot of us, maybe he will offer you an apprenticeship :wavey:
Hey! I resemble that remark! :biglaugh:
But I much prefer the “Seasoned” professional description. :archer2:
Post by: Mad Max on April 09, 2022, 04:45:58 PM
Post by: Flem on April 09, 2022, 06:21:31 PM
The Geezer
The Duffer
Old and in the way
Grandpa
The Senior
Post by: Kirkll on April 09, 2022, 06:59:59 PM
QuoteKirk, I did a little stalking and noticed you are in Oregon. Are you by chance anywhere near the Washington border?
I’m about 30 miles south of Portland, 9 miles south of Oregon City on the east side of the river.
Kirk
Im right next to vancouver if you ever want to offer lessons!
I might consider swapping some lessons for some wood splitting time... I still have a couple cords that needs busting up and stacked in the wood shed. :bigsmyl:
Post by: wcasey755 on April 09, 2022, 07:46:55 PM
QuoteKirk, I did a little stalking and noticed you are in Oregon. Are you by chance anywhere near the Washington border?
I’m about 30 miles south of Portland, 9 miles south of Oregon City on the east side of the river.
Kirk
Im right next to vancouver if you ever want to offer lessons!
I might consider swapping some lessons for some wood splitting time... I still have a couple cords that needs busting up and stacked in the wood shed. :bigsmyl:
Now your speaking my language!
Post by: Kirkll on April 09, 2022, 08:31:42 PM
I get seriously pig piled in winter time, and my poor shop is trashed right now. It's almost embarrassing. I'll send you a PM with some info.
Kirk
Post by: wcasey755 on April 09, 2022, 08:41:46 PM
Alrighty then! This will force me to swamp out the shop a bit and do my spring cleaning a bit early.
I get seriously pig piled in winter time, and my poor shop is trashed right now. It's almost embarrassing. I'll send you a PM with some info.
Kirk
No worries I just had my firstborn so im in no hurry!
Post by: Flem on April 10, 2022, 11:29:29 AM
As someone who splits and stacks wood every year, not sure what "busting up" means, I think I would want to walk away from the experience with a complete bow that I had made. Depending on what you do for a living, the time it takes to complete those tasks, could amount to a lot of earnings :readit:
Post by: Kirkll on April 10, 2022, 12:54:23 PM
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dTGWjDRCcVHSv9TE6
But.... getting older has its set backs and limitations. The last 5-6 years i've slowed down on the firewood duty a lot, and we run the furnace in the house a lot more. Two years ago i got rid of the woodstove in the shop and put in a commercial propane shop heater. It does the job just fine, but is expensive to run in freezing weather. I sincerely appreciate help with wood duty when ever i can get it. This getting old ain't for sissy's.... I'll tell ya that ... :biglaugh: Kirk