Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Appalachian Hillbilly on January 04, 2022, 10:52:52 AM
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Anyone care to tell how they make their takedown wedges? Do you make a jig to grind them or how do you do it?
Getting ready to try my hand at making limbs.
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For wedges with a flat for bolt I grind to thickness and width, then rough saw the taper . This way the bottom of wedge is already sanded.
For my td bows there is no flat for bolt so rough cut wedge and flip over when you get one side cleaned up on sander
The bottom board is longer because my pressure rollers let up on a short board about the time the wedge is halfway thru and makes a dip in it if bottom is short like top.
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Kenny,
How do you hold the shim in place?
Mark
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Not sure how Kenny does it but his sled drawing is similar to what I have in mind. Either double sided tape, bit I am afraid that would be to sticky for the very thin ends, or making the wedge long enough to screw to the sled and then trim off when done?
Ken
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The shim can be longer and a small screw to hold it. My sled is old but works great so I haven't done that. After trial and error to get the slope I want, I just used CA on the shim
The wedge stop I just put on with CA
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I had to get creative on these but jigs for the profiler work well
(https://i.imgur.com/UVsg27s.jpg)
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Stic
That seems like it would be a lot of waste doing it that way.
I guess you have tried laminating 3/5 thin strips?
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This is how I make them, the wedges do not have a straight taper.
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Sorry old pics come upside down.
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(https://i.imgur.com/EdBwOUQ.jpg)
Looks good to me
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Yeah Max I got a form for laminating. But this was before that.
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:thumbsup: :bigsmyl:
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Picture looks ok to me, Bue.
I hear ole KennyM is an expert on wedges..
Just sayen..
:laughing:
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Don’t make me come out there boy... :wavey:
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I hain't skeered pops:)
:thumbsup: :laughing: :wavey:
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I true up a block of wood on my disc sander and then clamp it down next to the disc 1/8" to nothing over 2" distance... Then I take a .140 to .125 lam and shove it between the sander and the block until i get an edge down to nothing on the lam... Round off the transition a hair where the wedge meets the parallel and you are good to go...
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Ya meant wedgies right Roy
Here is my laminating form for the curved wedges. It saves some material over the long run. But the pieces need to be thin enough that ther is no spring back out of the form Dont ask.
(https://i.imgur.com/vpuNqsy.jpg[/img
[img]https://i.imgur.com/nn80GFX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lH3eWv9.jpg)
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But the pieces need to be thin enough that ther is no spring back out of the form
And how thin is that? How many layers do you typically glue together?
Mark
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Nice stic
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Well, I have to make wedges now...I dropped one of the wedges I got from Binghams and it landed right on the point!
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Ouch I hate when a riser or wedge gets dropped.
How thin depends on the wood type. Prolly nothing over .100
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If you drop a wedge or riser , it WILL land on the fade...
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You should be able to make them on a table saw with a jig, practice with 2x4's
then sand with a flat block of wood with 120 paper
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If you drop a wedge or riser , it WILL land on the fade...
LOL yupper..
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Feel for you hillbilly! I did that once with a finished hill riser with one of the most georgeous pieces of myrtle I have ever seen.
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Well, I have to make wedges now...I dropped one of the wedges I got from Binghams and it landed right on the point!
There's a law about that. It's a very broad law that also includes knives, chisels and other tools.
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Well, I have to make wedges now...I dropped one of the wedges I got from Binghams and it landed right on the point!
There's a law about that. It's a very broad law that also includes knives, chisels and other tools.
Only made worse by landing on your foot :laughing:
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So, just doing some reverse engineering. Those are 8.250 long, taper starting at 2.750 and .070 per inch or 4 degrees....if my math is right.
Bought a notebook today to trace all my patterns out and to keep notes etc of my journey.
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Note # 1 don't drop the wedge
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Bue, a couple of questions about your wedge grinding jig. What material is the base of the jig that rubs on the collar made of? Is the rotation of the sanding drum counter-clockwise? Thanks.
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So, just doing some reverse engineering. Those are 8.250 long, taper starting at 2.750 and .070 per inch or 4 degrees....if my math is right.
Bought a notebook today to trace all my patterns out and to keep notes etc of my journey.
What is the thickness of the wedge .192 ?
2-3/4" of taper?
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It is plexiglass and the wedge is resting on two small nails, elevated. The drum goes counterclock wise.
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You should be able to make them on a table saw with a jig, practice with 2x4's
then sand with a flat block of wood with 120 paper
Absolutely….. I have a table saw sled I use to rough cut wedges to save material, and then use another sled in my drum sander to get the finished product, and feather the fade tips by hand.
For funky wedges like TD Bear limbs, or ILF wedges I use a jig like Crooked stick posted and grind them on an 80” edge sander with a pattern bearing.