Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Shredd on December 24, 2021, 12:38:38 AM
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This thread is all Hillbily's fault... You asked for it... Hope you like numbers... That's what tweaking's all about... If things go wrong, I now have someone to blame... :) This thread is more about the process of tweaking towards higher performance than about a bow build...
So far I built 4 sets of these limbs... I am gonna concentrate on the two fastest pair of limbs to take my notes from... Cobra limbs #2018 and #2021... I will look at the notes on the other two bows to know what not to do and what to stay away from...
Today i was gonna start by looking at the info on those two bows and figure out stack heights and what changes I was gonna make to increase the speed on the new limbs... Instead I decided to take limbs #2021 and take them down a few pounds to use on my 20" target riser... That will give me some insight before I start the new limbs... They came in at 48# on a 16" riser and 43.2# on the 20" riser... The target weight is 40 to 41# @ 28"... I began by trapping the last third of the limb which had a slight reflex for about 7 to 8" before the hook... I pulled on the string vertically to check vertical stability... It was very, very slightly unstable... I took a little off at a time checking limb shape at brace and arrow speed... If I start losing arrow speed I would stop the process or take some off the base of the limbs... As you can see by the numbers I did not lose any speed percentage wise and actually may have gained a hair more speed especially with heavier arrows... That is a good thing... Plus the limbs got very stable vertically after the first sanding of two... It's amazing how such a small tweak can make a noticeable difference... Now I know not to mess with the limb section before the hooks with the new limbs... I found it is always better to have a little reflex in that area because to adjust and fine tune, just do a little sanding...
Here are the numbers... It takes lots of notes, time and testing a to make little gains... You gotta be stubborn and half crazy to do this chit... :banghead: :biglaugh: It's my passion...
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Bow #2018 I got lucky... First one off the form and I got numbers like this...
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Bow #2021 with 16" riser
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Bow #2021 with 20" riser...
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Bow #2021 with 20" riser as weight was taken down...
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I think you made it to 190's with 10 GPP for sure :clapper: Not many can say that.
How many bows did you make over the years chasing speed?
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Youza!
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Thats damn impressive Shredd :notworthy: Its good to follow your passion and even better if it leads you to uncharted territory.
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Keep it coming shredd . I like this stuff.
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Max.. At least 40 to 50 bows... Probably more... I definitely don't wanna be floating around the 190 mark... I want to be solid in the 190's... 189 kinda pisses me off... :biglaugh:
Flem.. Yes..!! Been to many uncharted territories... For me that is what life is all about... Exploring the unbeaten path... You will see in this thread how I use DFC's, where I don't see anyone else going to this level...
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As I go along I will add tips, theories and bit of info that I have learned along the way...
First Tip...
** WARNING** No one should take what I say as an absolute... Anyone can make mistakes, be mislead, be wrong or be wrong in their theories... I had a mentor that gave me lots of info on performance... A lot of it was good stuff that I will hold on to but as I learned more and more about bows and how they work I found that there where about a half dozen things that he told me that were blatantly untrue... I tried to reason with him but he is ornery and set in his ways... At that point the student became the teacher and he could not handle that... I am still very grateful for what he taught me but sad that I had to part ways...
Take what I have to offer you, retain it and see if it works for you one day... And if it does not I would appreciate if you came to me and discuss it so we both can learn...
I will share with you that I tell my friends when we do stuff together... " It's all about the mission... Put pride and ego aside... It's all about the mission..." Another wards to accomplish the mission is priority number one, cast pride and ego aside...
Keep an open mind and think out of the box and you will go a long way...
Well that was the philosophical part... :)
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Now this is right up my alley! I love cause and effect and doing this stuff!
You have my utmost attention! Please continue! Looking forward to learning all I can!
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Ok Shredd . Vertical stability how do you measure it & what does it do for performance. The only thing I know is if it not stable it makes floppy limbs and I dont like that. This is how I have been measuring it.
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So you have a mock up riser clamped in a vice, ,
If they are unstable when you hang the weight from the bottom,, you get lateral movement in the limb set? String and limbs move to one side or the other?
If they track straight, you are good??
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No it just checks up and down. If you grab the string and move it up or down it will do the same thing. But with this I can measure it.
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Guess I am a little lost on what exactly you measure and how to quantify it. Are you wanting very little movement up and down at brace height?
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Ya that is it. But I do not know what it will help. I might be chasing my tail. Or will it help with vibration
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On this I can say that I only know what I been told... I pull up and down on the string if the limbs don't want to budge they are stable... If they want to flip and flop back and forth they are unstable... I have been told that unstable limbs make for a more sensitive bow to shoot... Makes sense to me but I don't know if it is absolutely true...
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It makes sense that you want the bow to hinge further down the limbs instead of flopping near the tips.
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Anything I post on here is open for discussion... Do some of you have thoughts on floppy and vertically unstable limbs and shootability??
Hillbilly... It is not so much where the limbs are bending as it is the way the limbs act through the shot cycle (when the string is released)... Floppy limbs may make the bow sensitive to shoot... As you can see in the pic my limbs are bending very nicely but at brace the tips were just a hair floppy...
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Nice bends Rich :thumbsup:
Here is a good picture of unstable at 1st brace off the form
the left limb is stronger and it's not braced high enough, needs tiller and braced higher.
If you grab the string and push it to the left the left limb will lay on the string and the right limb will bend more.
This bow was fine and stable after I finished the tiller
(https://i.imgur.com/U7QkjWf.jpg)
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Mad max, do those tips act like siyahs?
How much faster do they make it?
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They are Siyah's, and yes
Let's stay on the Topic of Cobra limbs
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DFC of 2018
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DFC of 2021
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Comparison of 2018 and 2021
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Shredd, do you experiment with different woods in those limbs, or do you try to keep that factor consistent?
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I most always use Hard Maple...
Sorry... I tried to increase the size of the pics to make more readable... Maybe good ol' Roy can lend a hand...
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(https://i.imgur.com/zfFVUDw.jpg)
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So what did you change from 2018 to 2021
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I am gonna explain DFC's when I get some time... I just wanted to get them up on the forum... Took me about 45 minutes to do that and I still could not get the right size... :banghead:
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Anything I post on here is open for discussion... Do some of you have thoughts on floppy and vertically unstable limbs and shootability??
Do any of you experienced bowyers have any opinion on floppy, vertically unstable limbs??? I am repeating the question because you all may have been busy with Christmas stuff...
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What is a "cobra" limb? Is that just what you call your design or?
pardon my ignorance.
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Yes... It's the design... I posted pics of it on the first page...
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As a general rule a bow with higher numbers in the beginning of the DFC (10") and low numbers at the end of the DFC (28") is usually the faster bow... When the difference is extreme between two different bows this will usually apply... If the numbers are close and you have two different types of limbs or the same kind of limbs this rule does not always apply... As in this case the numbers on the 2018 bow ( 10.84 & 5.00% ) and the 2021 bow ( 11.07 & 4.84% )... 2021 should be the faster bow... But it is not... 2018 edges it out by about 2 fps... I believe it is because the 2018 has shorter, snappier limbs... If you look at the curve on 2018 at the 28" mark the curve starts pulling away from the line in a more vertical direction... I have been told in the past by a bowyer or two that you want the bow to start stacking right after where you draw the bow for good performance... This theory seems to hold true with this DFC... Now when I make my new limbs I will make them similar to bow 2018... I am not sure how I will tweak them yet... I will post that when I decide...
When you are comparing two sets of limbs of the same design and you want a smooth draw... It is simple... Just go by the numbers... Big in the beginning of the draw and small at the end... If you want performance it is more of a balancing act... You want an optimal curve on the DFC graph... It's all about how those limbs are gonna unfurl during the shot cycle to transfer their energy to that arrow... I think it is about keeping a nice even pressure on that arrow during the whole shot cycle... I believe a straight limbed bow will have most of the pressure on the arrow at the beginning or the shot cycle...
Below is a DFC of those big oversize hooked recurve limbs... I drew a line on the graph from the first to last point... A lot of people say that space between the line and the curve is stored energy... I am not sure I believe that... And if it is stored energy they did not do the best job at delivering it to the arrow... I know of a few bows with a lot flatter DFC that goes just as fast or faster than one of these type bows... Granted they are fast but going by the theory that the DFC shows almost twice as much stored energy you would think it would be a whole lot faster...
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As a general rule a bow with higher numbers in the beginning of the DFC (10") and low numbers at the end of the DFC (28") is usually the faster bow...
This is why compounds are the kings of speed, they draw very heavy at the start and then drop off at the end for easy holding at anchor. Their DFC's are hugely pumped up with that high early weight for lots of energy storage and the limbs are super short and stout for minimal energy loss during the shot.
I drew a line on the graph from the first to last point... A lot of people say that space between the line and the curve is stored energy... I am not sure I believe that...
The area under the DFC curve down to the x-axis is indeed the energy stored. The big hook recurves lose out by needing heavy outer limbs to keep stability and through a lot of noise and vibration eating up energy during the shot.
Mark
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The area under the DFC curve down to the x-axis is indeed the energy stored. The big hook recurves lose out by needing heavy outer limbs to keep stability and through a lot of noise and vibration eating up energy during the shot.
I agree. However, it's easy to doubt that since there are other effects that can influence the dynamics such as hysteresis, weight of the limb material and (not certain on this one) location of the neutral plane.
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So...draw weight does not translate directly to speed. How fast can a limb get rid of the stored energy? This reminds me of the torque vs horsepower scenario.
How do you quantify or translate DFC to speed or efficiency? Could the are under the curve between the linear blue line be efficiency loss?
I think what we really would like to see, is not necessarily Draw Weight Curves, but a "map" of the energy being released into the arrow per inch upon release, then draw a correlation between the two.
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How do you quantify or translate DFC to speed or efficiency?
There is no way to that I know of (not that that means much overall...). All the DFC gives you is the energy stored and how smooth the draw cycle is. Efficiency not only depends on how much energy the bow wastes due to excess limb weight and vibration, but also the weight of the arrow. Heavy arrows increase bow efficiency because they absorb more of the energy in the shot, leaving less behind in the limbs to be wasted.
I think you can get some idea of the inherent bow efficiency separate from the arrow weight by working with dry fire speeds, but I have not looked at them yet and am not that familiar with them. The flight shooters care a great deal about this because it is very important with their light arrows.
Mark
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Good stuff Rich! One other factior I would consider you look at is the physical weigh of the limbs :)
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I wish I had some of the old Bowhunting World Magazine. In a couple of them the late Norbert Mullaney explains about all this. Maybe somebody still have them. Interesting stuff by the way.
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Don’t mean to highjack your thread, but some interesting stuff in this article.
https://dryadbows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/connie-Defining-Bow-Performance-Dryad.pdf
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OK Mattock... So it is measured from the X-axis... That makes it a little more believable as stored energy... Like I said they did a poor job of delivering that energy... The bottom line is that we are talking about tweaking a pair of limbs to increase it's performance... So I am not as much concerned with stored energy as I am with the way that energy is delivered... I can show numerous examples of bows with more stored energy are actually slower... You may say the limbs are heavy, vibration and other things are eating up the energy... What about, their design is lacking and just not delivering that energy like it should... Suppose halfway through the shot cycle the string is just following it along instead of keeping pressure on the arrow and propelling it along gaining speed...
On the hex 8 dfc that I posted... I don't think it is the exact same bow but the DFC should be very similar... In Tradlab there is a border bow doing 189 @ 10gpp my bow does 188 with a lot less pronounced DFC... If you wanna say that the extra weight on the limbs is holding it back then why at 11 gpp that bow is not making any gains over my bow?? If it was a better design with all that stored energy it should be picking up speed when the arrow weight goes up when compared to my bow...
Another example... My buddy has a 50 lb. Mild R/D bow... I have a 41 lb. R/D bow... His stored energy is way more than mine just for the fact it is 50 lb... With a 410 gr. arrow his does 172 fps and mine does 183 fps... That is nine lb. lighter and 11 fps faster... To match his bow in speed I would have to build a 36 lb. bow... Where is all this stored energy?? When looking for speed, to me stored energy is somewhat a myth and I don't concern myself too much with it... I feel what you should really concern yourself with is what the chrony says, how your limbs are bending, learning what the DFC is trying to tell you and finding some kind of balance with the DFC... You are trying to build a Bruce Lee not a line backer...
Good stuff Bue... You aint sidetracking nuttin...
Stag... Grossly over weight limbs are a no-no... But slightly heavier limbs don't matter too much...
Hillbilly... A map of energy into the arrow would be tits...
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I don't see the Border bow on Trad lab with that speed.
Your bow it the fastest one on there. :)
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Go to ILF limbs...
https://www.thetradlab.com/bordercvxw
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:thumbsup:
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I just want to add another note on the stored energy myth... I can build a bow with great numbers as the general rule would suggest, with real high numbers in the beginning and low numbers at the end... It would show more stored energy than some of the other bows of the same model or even other models that I have made... I could put super slim limbs on the bow to make them lighter... That bow would be a lot slower than my other bows but it would show a lot more stored energy... That is why I feel the term stored energy is kind of useless... That curve you see on the graph is telling you how those limbs are bending... Too much of a curve could mean there is too much limb moving and you could start losing speed... Too little of a curve could mean you start stacking to early and you start losing speed... Those big hooks on the those hex limbs is all about excess smoothness of draw... If you want serious speed and probably a decently smooth draw to boot look at the Uuka limbs... Those guys are not messing around...
https://www.thetradlab.com/uuukhavx
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Where is all this stored energy?? When looking for speed, to me stored energy is somewhat a myth and I don't concern myself too much with it...
Stored energy isn't a myth as such, it is a real thing we can measure. But it isn't as important as the other details, like you say. Your Bruce Lee instead of a linebacker idea is right on I think. I have read other people talking about how changing pad angles on a takedown to change the initial string tension can significantly affect the vibration levels and speed. It is a complex system with a bunch of interconnected variables that performance can be very sensitive to.
Mark
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Great topic Shredd, I do a little R&D myself for my designs but nothing overly extensive as my budget and time I want to put into it will allow. Design and material make a big difference in performance no question and the only way to truely know is to painstakingly Build and test, helps all learn from the labor of love of others, thanks all for sharing.
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Those big hooks on the those hex limbs is all about excess smoothness of draw... If you want serious speed and probably a decently smooth draw to boot look at the Uuka limbs... Those guys are not messing around...
Do you what the limbs are made of?
You don't see any wood in the stack, it's all black
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Do you what the limbs are made of?
You don't see any wood in the stack, it's all black
According to Uuka those limbs are all carbon layers with no core of any type, wood or foam.
Mark
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYm16NgvU68&t=94s
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It would cost a lot of money to do that.
I will get started :tongue:
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So in the end is all about a bows dynamic efficiency?
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Thats got to be one unpleasant bow to shoot. Maybe if you are a competitive archer and are need some advantage, would those limbs be tolerable. Carbon is not elastic, in epoxy it has an almost identical MOE to steel.
Be like shooting a metal bow, but lighter :tongue:
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https://www.google.no/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjwjtiR7Iv1AhX2SPEDHbN2DakQwqsBegQIBBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DbZzhc7D7H58&usg=AOvVaw01wGBCXTQ7OtKwimRcMw4Y
Speed test Uhkka vs WW and Hoyt.
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I see, those are very specialized limbs. Interesting bow in that video. Looks like you could mount it on your roof when not shooting and use it as a microwave transmitter.
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I watch a lot of Jake K. videos... His videos are very informative and he tries to cover all the bases but they are a bit long, a bit too wordy and I think he could cover all the info he is offering in half the time... But maybe there are people out there and wanna watch him shoot bows for 10 or 15 minutes while he is testing them... :) On that video he just looks at the curves... It just so happens that the curves and using the term stored energy follow the general rule and match the speed of the arrows... I think all those limb designs are probably similar... One day he is gonna shoot a bow with a different limb design showing less stored energy and that bow is going to be faster... He will then be scratching his head... But then these limbs could be a near perfect limb design that can't be beat speed wise... I did not watch the whole video but I don't think he stated the arrow weights and such... I give him props for going a little deeper and getting into the DFC thing and that is a very slick device he uses to measure it...
I would like to share with you what is in my head about making a better performing bow... All these terms like dynamic efficiency, stored energy ect.ect. are all nice and dandy but to me they seem after the fact... After you make a bow you can do all the math and say it has this and that... Can these things help to build a faster bow?? I don't know... Maybe they can... The only thing I am concerned with is how fast that arrow is leaving that bow... After that you can move the wedges to get a bow that stacks a little sooner or draw a little smoother for desired shootability but you will lose some speed... That is something that I have not messed with yet... When I have a job of making a faster bow I am not looking at it as an olympic shooter, a engineer with blue prints, a mathematician ect. ect... I look at it as a bowyer with a hunk of wood and glass in front of me and the previous bow I made and it's DFC... I look at the speed of the bow, how the bow is bending and the DFC... I say to myself, how can I increase the speed or what numbers do I need on that DFC to increase the speed and how am I gonna go about getting the desired numbers I want to increase it's speed...
If anyone out there can educate me on how to make a faster bow using those other terms describing a bows performance, I am all ears...
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I just wanna know how you are making them now! For a new guy, there is A LOT to learn! Thick glass less wood, thin glass more wood in the same stack, static tips or tips that bend, where to end the fades? Then there is carbon, uniweft, power lams, carbon weave...
I look at bows and think of things like what angle is more effecient at pulling on the string and how does this correlate to what arc the tip travels in? Bows with tips that travel in a long arc, short arc or straight up and down similar to a short limb compound....
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I use .040 glass, .003 taper, power lam out to about 4 to 6", tip wedge 5 to 7", static tips... And carbon is for sissys... :biglaugh:
As for arc of limb bending I gave it some thought from time to time... That's about it... For the most part keep your bows over 62"... On longer bows like 68" you should probably go with shorter, snappier limbs... Make sure you have a consistent bend throughout the limb except about the last 4 to 5 " which should be relatively stiff...
These are my guide lines for a decent performing bow...
Remember that every bow is different and may not jive with my guidelines... You got to experiment and find out what works for that design...
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Shredd, what does your frontal profile look like?
My formula is very similar to yours except for the power lam.
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About 1 3/8" at the fades and about 1/2" and under at base of tip overlay...
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How far out the limb do you maintain the 1 3/8?
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Straight taper to 1/2"...
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Shreds I commend you for your commitment in chasing speed.
I like a fast bow, and would love to “chase the speed”. But I have neither the time or budget to validate an attempt. And to be honest, I am content knowing my bows are faster than all of the vintage production recurves I own.
These are some of my thoughts(which you may have already had).
A fast moving arrow requires a fast moving string. Constant acceleration to the stop would probably be optimal. I believe this is why you want limbs to more gain weight early in the draw cycle.
To reach maximum string speed requires the limb tips going from point A(full draw) to point B(braced) as quick as possible. There are only two ways to accomplish this.
1. Get the tips moving as fast as possible.
2. Get the distance from A to B as short as possible. This can be done two ways. Get the two points closer together or reduce the arc traveled between the two points.
Sorry I don’t have any great wisdom on how to accomplish this. Just a hillbilly spewing some of the random thoughts that go thru my head.
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I think Bwas have something important and interesting in his point nr 2.
2. Get the distance from A to B as short as possible. This can be done two ways. Get the two points closer together or reduce the arc traveled between the two points.
Sorry I don’t have any great wisdom on how to accomplish this. Just a hillbilly spewing some of the random thoughts that go thru my head.
This is my thinking on this. I guess we could call it short limb travel. I think one way to obtain this is by using thin longer fadeout wedges and stiffer or stiff tips. Bue square head engineer.
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" I think one way to obtain this is by using thin longer fadeout wedges and stiffer or stiff tips. Bue square head engineer."
I agree with this, if you stiffen at riser and tips, you bend limb more/most in midlimb. When arrow is released, the midlimb is doing the work and as it straightens, the tip moves forward faster.
At least that is the way I see it in my mind's blurry eye... :biglaugh:
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. When arrow is released, the midlimb is doing the work and as it straightens, the tip moves forward faster.
I agree with this
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I was just discussing this... That is probably gonna be my approach... I am thinking about moving my power lam out an inch and moving my nock out a half inch... Since the tips are static that should shorten the limb and also put move stress on the mid limb...
I will post something when I make my final decision... Sorry for dragging my feet... I got a bit of stuff goin on...
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Curious on what the powerlam is?? Its been mentioned a few times now..
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It's wedge that goes usually 2 to 6" past your fades... It's like extending the fades...
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Okay does it act any different then if you were to enlarge your riser (extending the fades out) or is there a advantage to the powerlam?
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You could extend your riser, but you will save material if using a thin powerlam. In a take down I see no reason to use a PL, just make the wedges longer.
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Shredd so about how much working limb are you currently running? Do you see a trend of less working limb or more? (In your designs)
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For me, fade to nock is about 22 to 22 1/2"... The last 3 to 4" don't bend... So you can say about 18" of working limb for my design... As far as a trend for performance I try to have most of the limb working... I see bows all the time that have a nice curvy beautiful shape in the limbs... I think most of the time I can tell if that bow lacks in performance by the looks of it when braced and at full draw... So many bowyers go for this smooth gradual curve look... That look, unknowingly kills speed for most of those bows... But what they do have is a smooth draw because most of their bend is in the first half of the limb near the fades... I am talking mainly about recurves but the basic rule covers mostly all bows... There could be exceptions to the rule...
A year or so ago the boys were laughing at me, saying there was a flat spot in my limbs... There was no flat... It is an optical illusion... I opted for a performing limb over of a graceful curved limb... The results 188 - 190 fps vs 180 or slower... I think people get hung up on the way things are supposed to look vs the potential of what the limbs can do... Maybe they go for the look that sells more bows... But then they might want that smoother drawing, slower shooting, quieter bow... I think you could probably get the same feel and quietness out of some optimally performing limbs just by using a heavier arrow... Below is a pic of the limbs with the so-called flat spot...
I have not messed too much with different lengths... A 64 to 65" bow seems to be a good standard length so I generally go with that... You could probably make about 15 to 20 different bows out of one bow design by varying length, width and tapers... Even though I have learned a lot in 3 years of intense, totally dedicated bow building I feel I have just scratched the surface and there is so much more to learn...
The bow below has the best DFC numbers on any bow that I have ever built... High tension at brace and super smooth to draw...
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How do you get static tips? Been thinking about how you would layup your stack to achieve that. Is it like a power lam but only in the few inches or so at the tips?
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Zackly... Combination of two... Thicker limb in that area and a tighter curve will stiffen things up...
Here is a pic of typical recurve... Notice how the outer half of the limb has a gradual curve that gets tighter and tighter as you get near the tips... The bow looks great unstrung and at brace with nice flowing curves.. But look what happens at full draw... To me, not so pretty... all the bend is in first half of the limb... Most of the recurves I see are designed this way... I could be wrong and be missing out on something but most of these bows look like they are super smooth drawing but lack in performance of what they could have with a larger working portion of limb...
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Here is a 60" Bear kodiak... Notice how the limbs have the hook that continues to more than a third of the limb before it starts taking a D-shape bend..?? That curve stiffens things up and doesn't allow the limb to bend resulting in the first half of the limb supplying all the energy and lacking leverage for more power...
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Think I am understanding now. I have 2 Bears and several ILF recurves. The Bears do have a bit of curl in the ends at brace.
How do you thicken or stiffen just the tips on a recurve without adding the extra curl?
If you add a short piece of lam in the stack at the end, how do you keep it in the stack and not squirt out the end? Or do you run a reverse taper core?
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I run a Hyper lam... Some call it a super lam... It has the wedges built into it...
Stop your curve and wedge where you want the limb to stop bending... On my bow I went from a large radius straight to a small radius... It's not gradual like a french curve like you see on most recurves..
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A tip wedge is thicker at the nock and gets thinner towards the riser--4,6,8" long
you could make your wedge stick out (longer than the stack) and let it bump up against a nail to keep it from squirting out
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5" radius and under don't need a wedge-- a 2" radius will make it static
(https://i.imgur.com/Bf1vOKG.jpg)
You can see all the limb is working--18-1/2" working limb
(https://i.imgur.com/E1f34iz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SpJL3cD.jpg)
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Anything I post on here is open for discussion... Do some of you have thoughts on floppy and vertically unstable limbs and shootability??
Do any of you experienced bowyers have any opinion on floppy, vertically unstable limbs??? I am repeating the question because you all may have been busy with Christmas stuff...
Absolutely...There are a lot of bows on the market being built that are borderline what i consider "vertically unstable" Grabbing the string in one hand and the riser in the other you can easily move the string up and down moving both limbs. Another test is standing the bow on the lower limb tip vertically and push the top limb tip down with your hand. It easily wiggles both limbs causing limb bulge....
With all this said, vertically unstable bows can still be very high in performance, but squirrely too....They are very sensitive to finger placement and release consistency. Take this unstable bow, and bring it to full draw... then rock your finger pressure high and low a bit.... You will notice more a lot more movement in the limbs with a vertically unstable bow.
next thing to ask is .... What determines a limb design that is vertically unstable vs a rock solid one? That answer is very long, and many options and opinions, but it starts with geometry...... Was that helpful?
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Yes... That was great... Yeah, I think some bowyers sacrifice shootability for performance or what's trending... You can have both if you put in a little effort...
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Thank you Arlo