Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: GingerStick on December 10, 2021, 12:19:15 PM
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Looking for some suggestions/ advice on the most efficient way to cut the limb pad angles on a takedown riser. Been using a band saw now but getting mixed results. Was thinking about investing in a miter saw but would like some input before I run out and buy one. Thanks!
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I use a jig and run mine thru the table saw.
Then a quick touch on the disc sander to clean them up.
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Same as Brad , small sheet of plywood with the angle piece to hold side of riser and a stop for back end
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Could one of you post a picture of the jig you use? Got the concept but pictures always help ha
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If you use a tablesaw sled you will flip the riser for the second cut witch means it needs to be perfectly square.
For my risers I have made profiling jigs with the angles built in. This keeps one side down and both pads on the same plain.
If the tablesaw method leaves one pad a bit different it can be fixed with a belt or disc sander.
(https://i.imgur.com/8HecjHM.jpg)
The tablesaw on that has a miter slot guide to keep it true.
(https://i.imgur.com/59pMiO3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6TXrMOb.jpg)
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If you use a tablesaw sled you will flip the riser for the second cut witch means it needs to be perfectly square.
I will try and post a pick of mine tomorrow.
But Mike, I don’t flip the riser. I flip the sled.
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Yeah I want to see that sled.
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However you make the sled, riser pads need to be as perfectly square as you can get , or you will build limb twist right into the bow if the limbs have any curve at all. :thumbsup:
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I am using a end mill. Cut the pad . Drill the pin holes. And tap . All with out moving the riser from the vice.
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I am using a end mill. Cut the pad . Drill the pin holes. And tap . All with out moving the riser from the vice.
what tool are you using to set your angle before milling?
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This is my sled Mike. Pretty simple design. One of the blocks pivots so that I can clamp the block in and just run it down the rip fence.
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I cut a wedge on the shop saw. Put it under the riser and on the vice.
I am NOT a machinist.
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I cut a wedge on the shop saw. Put it under the riser and on the vice.
I am NOT a machinist.
:thumbsup:
What kind of mill do you have?
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Grizzly mill/drill G0704
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Mad Max do you know a better way to hold it. I do enjoy learning some of this.
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We always used a Kurt vice.
As long as the back jaw of the vice is parallel to the drill head your OK, some of the cheep ones are not.
Get one of these and google how to use a edge finder
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-050101-Edge-Finder-Shank-200/dp/B081XZYQT8
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Thanks Max. I have one of the edge finders. My vice is a cheep copy of a kurt vice. It is out .002 over the 4" jaw.
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Bvas that would be good keeping the same side down on the block and that gets the pads on the same plane with each other.
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This is what I ended up making, works great!
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Rough cut on band saw , then fine tune it on an edge sander is the quickest way.
But I prefer a vertical mill with a power feed and a Kurt vise for precision. Mill it, drill it, tap it, and go…. I Use it for milling the limbs too, and 99% of the time they bolt up very straight.
The trick to it is getting your limbs sanded parallel in the drum sander and making sure those limbs are dead square on one edge before you run em through the drum sander. If you don’t, you can get a real mess on your hands building a twist into your limbs before you even profile them.
Oh there are lots of ways to screw up a perfectly good bow project…and getting limb pads off is one of them.
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Was looking at this Topic again
What happened to Arlo?
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I'm here.... just been busy. I don't do a lot of forum time. Arlo
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Getting your limb pad perfectly square and on the same plane is critical, but so is making sure those limbs are milled properly and also checked for square is just as important.
After getting the limbs out of the form and carefully knocking the epoxy off the edges and straightened on the edge sander. You should lay them on the bed of the edge sander or a machinist table if you have one, and make sure that laying on edge that the limb butts as well as the working portion of the limb are perfectly square before running them through the drum sander to get them parallel.... Not doing this right is a common mistake for beginning bowyers, and they are fighting limb twist issues BIG TIME. especially in RC limbs. same theory applies to one piece bows, but you need a very flat surface with no twist in it to check the limbs.
just another though to chew on.....
Arlo
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If you use a sled that is square( after knocking the boogers off the sides) thru the drum sander they should be square. A good lam grind job and a straight form are more important to me.
All kinds of things can bring on limb twist from bad profiling to grain run out. Side to side limb thickness etc.
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I'm here.... just been busy. I don't do a lot of forum time. Arlo
:thumbsup: