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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Appalachian Hillbilly on December 06, 2021, 07:10:54 AM
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I have the EA40 but do not have my cure box set up. Anything wrong with using Titebond III on the riser?
I know not to use it on limbs, but what about a riser only?
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I would use EA40.
It cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees.
You could also place a light bulb under it and wrap with a blanket for more heat.
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Use the smooth-on . It will cure with out heat. It justs takes longer.
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Thanks guys, will do.
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My wife is a paper mache' artist. This is the hot box she uses to speed up the drying time of her projects. A simple cardboard box with 60w incandescent light bulb(s). We've never tested the temp but it is way above room temp.
Kenneth, this might be the ticket for small projects like risers.
(https://i.imgur.com/kKM1hkm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fs3rL1V.jpg)
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Thanks Pat! I may have found another idea. I just realized I have an old upright electric smoker. Need to dig it out and see how low it will go. Probably be just the right size for risers.
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...and the riser will smell good after it cures. Anyone got some BBQ sauce? :bigsmyl:
Does Marcia's hot box qualify as a redneck invention? :dunno: :thumbsup:
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Question to you boys that choose ea40 over wood glue... In your opinion what is wrong with using wood glue??
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I've used TBII and TBIII for all wood bow glue ups and never had a glue line failure. I've never used EA40 or other similar type epoxies. I have used Urac 185 with the hotbox.
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Question to you boys that choose ea40 over wood glue... In your opinion what is wrong with using wood glue??
Not really addressing your question, but do you use it?
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I use Titebond II for gluing up risers... Every time I bought TB III it seemed too thick and lumpy and if you use it on light woods you can see a dark glue line... I could be wrong but it seems to me that wood on wood with wood glue has a better bond than epoxy...
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Question to you boys that choose ea40 over wood glue... In your opinion what is wrong with using wood glue??
Nothing that I can see as long as it suits the joint prep and wood type.
I've used TBII and TBIII for all wood bow glue ups and never had a glue line failure.
+1. All my bows have been glued with yellow carpenter's glue and/or TBIII. Never any issues as long as the joint is prepped properly.
Every time I bought TB III it seemed too thick and lumpy and if you use it on light woods you can see a dark glue line...
That's odd, TBIII is by far the least viscous wood glue I have used. It definitely does leave a dark glue line that is noticeable on maple.
Mark
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Mattock... Is it just me and maybe some bad luck, but when you use TBIII does it seems too thick and lumpy like it it is old glue that sat on the shelf too long??
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Mattock... Is it just me and maybe some bad luck, but when you use TBIII does it seems too thick and lumpy like it it is old glue that sat on the shelf too long??
I was editing my reply as you replied... As I said, TBIII is not at all thick and lumpy in my experience. It is much thinner than traditional yellow wood glue and will not fill a gap at all, the joint fit up needs to be very good for it to give good results.
Mark
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In the Titebond III data sheet, it does say to store it below 24 degree Celsius. Higher storage Temps can lead to thick product per the sheet.
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If you glue up a one piece bow glass bow riser with more than one piece of wood with Titebond or similar and after cure the whole package in the heat box, will the the Titebond gluelines not come apart with the heat. I do not think that kind of glue can take heat. If it is a take down riser that is not heat cured I should think it would be okay.
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Geez... I guess I just had some bad luck and possibly could be the Fla. heat... I bought 2 to 3 tubes and all were not a good consistency... I will try another tube in the future...
Damn Hillbilly... 24C is 75F... 75% of the year Fla. is above 75*...
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TiteBond glues breaks down at 150deg(F). I called TB directly a few years ago after a rotten hickory backing broke across the bow and I wanted to get the hickory off and save the belly. The TB guy told me to heat it to 150deg and use a scraper or flat screw driver to separate the glue joint. I did as he said, starting at one tip and worked towards the handle then from the other tip. The backing strip came right off as the glue heated. So, keep this in mind while shooting in hot climates and in full sunlight.
I think for a takedown riser with multi lams I'd use something else besides TiteBond but I'm not a woodworker and not really that good at building wood bows.
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I use TB 3 in almost all my bows with no problem. When I built a takedown bow, it had fibreglass in the riser, so I glued that bow up with EA40. The only time I have seen thick or lumpy TB3 it was old.
Pat, the heat box qualifies as redneck. 🙂
Dave.
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I don’t have a lot of fancy tools, so most of my riser pieces are hand fitted. Tiebond does not fill gaps like ea40 does.
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Ea40 kicks butt over TB 3.
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TB glues are not gap filling glues. They recommend smooth, well mated glue surfaces.
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I never liked TB3 either. Its always turned into lumpy gravy and it has a short open time. If you need waterproof for some bizarre reason, why not use cheap hardware store epoxy?
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If you’re gonna use ea40 in limbs , I would just do the riser with it too . :thumbsup:
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Ea40 kicks butt over TB 3.
Roy... Have you ever built tri-lams using wood glue?? If so how did they compare to ea40??
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The allure of TB III for me is the speed and no mixing. I have always had good success with it on project and water cleanup is a plus.
I have some small accent pieces that I just did not want to mix up epoxy and fuss with a heat cure.
Glue, clamp, clean up with a wet rag and done.
No mixing containers, cups etc.
Although shortcuts rarely pan out in the long run...
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Ea40 kicks butt over TB 3.
Roy... Have you ever built tri-lams using wood glue?? If so how did they compare to ea40??
Only wood glue I use is unibond800 and I glue up all my bbo bows with it, even the riser. Never had a problem and I can use a darker or lighter hardner for color variations.
A glass bow takedown riser I would use EA40 like all the guys here do.
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I think the real question is how long do you want your creation to last? Is the adhesive going to slowly shrink and or oxidize over time? I think a cross-linked adhesive is going to withstand age and environmental degradation better than PVA. Lots of 40,50 and 60yr old bows, glued together with epoxy, are still in service.
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Yup. And lotsa desk drawers falling apart. :)