Post by: oldandslow on October 30, 2021, 03:34:31 PM
I'm thinking water based is better?
Like to hear from your experience...
Post by: Flem on October 30, 2021, 04:08:25 PM
Post by: Jeff Freeman on October 30, 2021, 05:55:56 PM
Post by: oldandslow on October 30, 2021, 06:29:28 PM
I've done with alcohol base stains. Turned out great
Yes of course. I'm just.assuming oil based may prove less then optimal for epoxy bond
Post by: Jeff Freeman on October 30, 2021, 06:33:34 PM
Post by: katalyzt on October 30, 2021, 10:30:55 PM
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It's really easy. I just mixed mine in water and rubbed on with a folded up cloth square. It's a bit hard to tell in the pic but I was able to do a fade from orange to red and that's pretty much my 2nd go at it so it's pretty easy stuff. Fun too.
Post by: Mad Max on October 31, 2021, 03:18:25 AM
Post by: oldandslow on October 31, 2021, 10:55:25 AM
I've used Keta Dye on Curly Maple with good results.
It's really easy. I just mixed mine in water and rubbed on with a folded up cloth square. It's a bit hard to tell in the pic but I was able to do a fade from orange to red and that's pretty much my 2nd go at it so it's pretty easy stuff. Fun too.
That's nice. I was thinking along the same lines, to make a bright blue or red veneer. Something really bright. Just because.
Post by: oldandslow on October 31, 2021, 10:58:44 AM
I think water base can pernitrate better on veneers .030 will dry in 3 or 4 days in low humidityI did some googling and found water based can penetrate very well. Gonna go with aniline dye. I have enuf of the maple to try several colors. Probably do up a few and pick the best ones
Post by: katalyzt on October 31, 2021, 11:06:17 AM
That's nice. I was thinking along the same lines, to make a bright blue or red veneer. Something really bright. Just because.
Go for it and then post your results. You can get all sorts of bright colors. One tip I would give is that if you want it really bright then just try putting a drop of the dye straight onto the cloth square and just rub it in.
Post by: oldandslow on October 31, 2021, 11:10:28 AM
That's nice. I was thinking along the same lines, to make a bright blue or red veneer. Something really bright. Just because.
Go for it and then post your results. You can get all sorts of bright colors. One tip I would give is that if you want it really bright then just try putting a drop of the dye straight onto the cloth square and just rub it in.
Thanks. There is also a local wood supplier who seem to experiment alot with colors and dyes. They do the resin tables and such. They carry the water soluble dyed in various colors. I'm sure they'd be a good reference for what I want to achieve
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 13, 2021, 12:43:49 PM
I just brought home some quilted maple and a large slab of quilted ambrosia maple.
I want to die or darken the quilted to make it pop more. Problem is, in the riser, I want to do a mix of quilted maple and morado walnut.
I need to die the maple slightly but want to do that before gluing up the riser.
Will dye penetrate enough to stand the Sanding and shaping needed on the riser?
Post by: oldandslow on November 13, 2021, 01:35:37 PM
The darker stains hide the birdseye and I wasnt pleased with the result. Looked kinda muddy.
I think a lite color will work better.
From what I have seen the analine dye doesnt penetrate a lot
Post by: Mark R on November 13, 2021, 03:54:26 PM
Post by: Mad Max on November 13, 2021, 03:58:35 PM
So far my progress has been slow.
The darker stains hide the birdseye and I wasnt pleased with the result. Looked kinda muddy.
I think a lite color will work better.
From what I have seen the analine dye doesnt penetrate a lot
It's a hard wood, the water base will go deeper
Post by: Richard Korte on November 14, 2021, 09:36:18 AM
Post by: oldandslow on November 14, 2021, 09:59:00 AM
I had considered dyeing a larger piece and then when dried...just bandsaw out what I needed.
I have seen what happens when dyeing thin veneer.
Curls nicely 😳
Thanks for your reply
Post by: Jeff Freeman on November 14, 2021, 10:05:38 AM
Post by: Flem on November 14, 2021, 10:19:01 AM
I was under the impression that I needed to have a rough surface for glue up?
Urban lore, or Bowyer's lore. Originated from the observation that all the glue was being squeezed out in the massive wood and metal forms with 70psi firehoses. Needed some trenches to retain some adhesive.
Ask any fine furniture maker, from the last few hundred years, what their joints look like prior to glue up.
Post by: oldandslow on November 14, 2021, 10:28:38 AM
I was under the impression that I needed to have a rough surface for glue up?
Urban lore, or Bowyer's lore. Originated from the observation that all the glue was being squeezed out in the massive wood and metal forms with 70psi firehoses. Needed some trenches to retain some adhesive.
Ask any fine furniture maker, from the last few hundred years, what their joints look like prior to glue up.
I've done numerous glue ups with planed wood.
I guess it's the epoxy that somehow I understood needed some grooves. Wood glue benefits from that tight fit because of capillary action...doesnt smooth on recommend 80 grit?
Just looking for clarity. Obviously Richard is having success!
Post by: Mad Max on November 14, 2021, 05:46:36 PM
I’ve stained a lot of veneers using Transtint Dyes dissolved in alcohol, especially curly and quilted Maple. If you try to stain a thin veneer, it will curl or warp as it dries. I mill the veneers I plan to dye fairly thick, about 1/8” or so. I splice them together with superglue and run them through my drum sander using fine sandpaper, 180 or 220 grit, sanding only the side I plan to dye. After dyeing, I allow them to dry thoroughly, then run them through the sander, using 60 grit on the un-dyed surface, to take them down to my desired thickness. I use a 6’ long by 4” wide piece of vertical grained Bamboo flooring as my sled, and I applied self stick drywall sanding sheets to the sled to prevent the lams from sliding while running them though the drum sander. I always dye and mill my veneers first in the building process. That tells my how thick my Bamboo cores should be to attain my desired stack. Works fo me! Richard
I use 2 layers of paper towel on both sides of the veneers and a heavy flat riser wood on top of them over night and redo the paper towels and do the same again the next morning .
These were totally soaked with water base and worked fine. :thumbsup:
(https://i.imgur.com/YrYKRen.jpg?1)
Post by: oldandslow on November 14, 2021, 05:56:56 PM
I’ve stained a lot of veneers using Transtint Dyes dissolved in alcohol, especially curly and quilted Maple. If you try to stain a thin veneer, it will curl or warp as it dries. I mill the veneers I plan to dye fairly thick, about 1/8” or so. I splice them together with superglue and run them through my drum sander using fine sandpaper, 180 or 220 grit, sanding only the side I plan to dye. After dyeing, I allow them to dry thoroughly, then run them through the sander, using 60 grit on the un-dyed surface, to take them down to my desired thickness. I use a 6’ long by 4” wide piece of vertical grained Bamboo flooring as my sled, and I applied self stick drywall sanding sheets to the sled to prevent the lams from sliding while running them though the drum sander. I always dye and mill my veneers first in the building process. That tells my how thick my Bamboo cores should be to attain my desired stack. Works fo me! Richard
I use 2 layers of paper towel on both sides of the veneers and a heavy flat riser wood on top of them over night and redo the paper towels and do the same again the next morning .
These were totally soaked with water base and worked fine. :thumbsup:
(https://i.imgur.com/YrYKRen.jpg?1)
Oh that looks nice!
Why did you hold out so long? :o
Post by: Mad Max on November 14, 2021, 07:59:29 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/YJiqCT9.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/0QyjbtL.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/d1Tmd1j.jpg?1)
Post by: oldandslow on November 14, 2021, 08:33:18 PM
I have some of those transtint dyes.
Will have to give it some time to work out the colors
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 15, 2021, 05:43:16 AM
I have some curly maple that I want to use some Transtint on but was worried about it interfering with the epoxy.
Post by: Mad Max on November 15, 2021, 08:11:17 AM
Aniline dye water base
1 oz is all you will ever need
1 oz to 1 quart of water
I go with 1/4 cup of boiling water to 27 grains of dye
convert 1 oz to grains (I use a reload scale for reloading bullets to measure grains)
1 oz is 437 grains divided by 16 is 27 grains, 1 quart is 4 cups divided by 16 is 1/4 cup
I use 2 layers of paper towel on both sides of the veneers and a heavy flat riser wood on top of them over night and redo the paper towels and do the same again the next morning until dry .
These were totally soaked with water base and worked fine.
This is were I get mine, I want to try grey on birdseye maple
https://woodworker.com/water-soluble-lt-gold-oak-aniline-dye-mssu-843-924.asp
I keep a dehumidifier in my bow shop running at 40% :thumbsup:
Post by: Flem on November 15, 2021, 09:06:16 AM
Post by: Mad Max on November 15, 2021, 09:17:47 AM
I laid out vertical lines on a piece of paper and tape my veneers over it.
I used Orange Yellow and Brown, mixing 2 of the colors on the wood with a rag ( fold a rag into a ball, wrap it with another rag and tie it off with a rubber band ----->) I had about 6 of these tied off for mixing
(https://i.imgur.com/U6sYZSi.jpg)
It took a while to mix them
(https://i.imgur.com/AeNi3on.jpg)
Brown orange yellow orange brown orange yellow orange brown orange yellow orange brown and so on
Post by: Richard Korte on November 15, 2021, 09:34:21 AM
Post by: oldandslow on November 15, 2021, 09:57:16 AM
Post by: Mad Max on November 15, 2021, 10:04:02 AM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 15, 2021, 10:42:17 AM
Now if I can figure out how to dye maple in risers that have other woods laminated with it.
Post by: Flem on November 15, 2021, 04:38:48 PM
Looks 3-D in the pictures
Post by: Roy from Pa on November 15, 2021, 05:03:29 PM
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: