I was thinking of using tung oil as a finish on the longbow that I am making for my son. I wonder how it will do over glass?
What does everybody else use as a protective outer coating over glass and wood?? What about the flexing of the limbs and cracking of the finish??
Good questions. I don't have the answers, I'm interested in hearing answers as well. I have a supply of tung oil, danish oil, and tru oil, but not sure how they will do on fiberglass.
Tru oil works great for me!
Mike
A check of the 3Rivers site shows Tung Oil, spray poly and Thunderbird finish as the option for bow finishes. I only wonder what the Tung oil will do on the glass, I think I would need to ruff up the shiny surface of the glass with something like 400 grit to get a solid bond. I think that would hold true for any of the finishes. I am looking for a matt or "No-Gloss" finish.
Definitely sand the glass,I use Helmsman spar urethane or sumthin like that,satin ,good finish but maybe not as good as Tbird. Available at Wmart
If yer gonna go the tung oil route, make sure it's not raw tung oil, and that it's a copolymer blend.
Glass needs to be buffed down with 220 or 320 grit to prepare for the finish coats.
Oily woods (cocobolo, rosewood, etc) needs to be sealed first - Jay Massey finish technique (epoxy thinned with acetone) works very well.
Any mor information on that Massie finish technique Rob?
Yes please. The bloodwood in my riser is a bit oily and I know tung oil cures very slowly for the first coat.
I've had good experiences with Tru Oil.
Ron
You can wipe the oily woods with alcohol or acetone before you put the finish on. You can also seal the wood with superglue and sand smooth before you finish. Just don't use acetone after the superglue.
After spraying many bows, the best finish i have found is thunderbird two part epoxy. I use the high gloss finish, because it is harder. The first coat wiil serve as your sealer for the oily woods. After spraying the bow with the number of coats you want, you can dull the glossy finish by wet sanding the bow with 1500 grit sand paper. You can then polish the bow with rottenstone and water, or mineral oil. This i have found will give you the smoothest and most proffesional looking finish. The two part epoxy is a little expensive at 80.00 dollars a quart, but you can spray 10 to 12 bows.
My version of a "Jay Massey finish" - I mix up some quality slow set epoxy in a small baby food type glass jar, set the jar into a pan of hot water (this helps with both the mixing and flow out) then thin with acetone to a flowing syrup-like consistency, wipe that on with a cloth.
A faster way of sealing is to use thin or medium viscosity CYA (super glue - the quality stuff found at hobby shops: Hot Stuff, Jet, Zap, etc). Wipe it on, sand/buff lightly with 220 grit, apply the finish coats.
For either methods of sealing, wear rubber gloves and a face mask - we're talkin' really toxic stuff.
tru oil has worked for me on 5 bows I have redone over the years. The key is put it on in very light coats and then I let dry for about a week between coats...
Bill