Got a question, I always get confused because I read articles it says (this is for a right-handed shooter) could someone tell me in backwards form (lefty) and what I need to do for nock left and nock right? I've got a 40# bow I'm playing with and the arrow is throwing a nock left with them, they are 400 spine with 175 up front. I would imagine the arrow is too stiff but from what I read, it says that's a weak arrow. Is lefty opposite?. I shoot a 52# grizzly with those arrows and they fly like lasers, I can't imagine they are too weak out of a 40# bow. Any help would be appreciated.
Here is a video that may be helpful. Nock left for a left handed archer is too stiff. A .400 spine is equivalent to an 81-84# wood arrow shaft. Another variable is the bow cut to center or outside of center. A self bow not cut to center needs weaker while a metal handle recurve cut past center will need more spine. Bow weight is only one variable in quest for the proper best flying spine arrow shaft. String material, strands, length of arrow, weight the head, length of broadhead, etc. Hope this helps...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM
You didn't say what your draw length was. It does matter...a lot.
I shoot 41 and 44lb limbs with 30.25" draw and found 400s too stiff and 500 too weak. 450 spine (31" or 32") work great for me. But I also don't mess around with bareshafting either. Just like when I used to run track I didn't run barefoot to work on my running stride, form etc.
But as they say your results may vary.
For a left hand shooter nock left is stiff, nock right is weak. Think of it this way when shooting nock flying/ pointing towards you bow is stiff, and away is weak.
40# bow 400 spine is way over spine, a 600 spine would woke better.
Alright, here's what I got. Bear grizzly 52# 28" draw length. I bought some 2018 arrows and they are throwing a nock right with bare shaft. I've got them cut about as short as I can to stiffen them up. I've tried 100-150 grain points. I'm left handed as well. Any pointers??
Did you cut them all down? Hopefully you're not getting a false reading. I'm shooting 2018 out of 54 pound bows. My bows are cut to center.
I just cut one down, slowly going about a 1/4" at a time. The tear is getting better each cut but I'm out of arrow now
I cut it as much as I could. since I was out of arrow, I went ahead and fletched it and shot thru paper, it's got a right tear but nothing major.
I would shoot some full length and play with tip weight. It would give you a better idea where to be when the shaft is cut shorter.
I tried them bare shaft full length with a 100 grain tip and it knocked my block target sideways it had such a right nock . 100 grains is about as low as I want to go, I was thinking anymore weight up front would just make them weaker.
I'm just thinking that if they are cut pretty short,and a low tip weight they couldn't be weak. :dunno:
Same here, it's got me puzzled. I shot probably 15 arrows through paper bareshaft and they have a good 1.5"+ right tear. And when shooting them in my target you can tell they are kicking to the right.
I'm shooting a grizzly, with a normal strike plate and a feather rest, don't know if I need to adjust that any or leave it alone.
I made a paper tuner,and always shot fletched arrows through paper.
You can also build the plate out to stiffen the dynamic spine. A simple way to do so is by doubling the thickness of the strike plate. The Bear strike plate pads are 1/8" thick. The calf hair pads are 1/16" thick. I have done this with success while bare shaft tuning arrows.
Thank you. I was wondering about that.