I picked up a very nice 50# @ 28", 58" Arroyo from RER. It was an instock bow. It's a very nice bow, smooth, quick and has no finger pinch. The only problem is with bare shaft tuning. I draw 28 1/2 inches and everything I've shot shows weak. I've shot 1916's, 2016's, Beman 500's & 400's, Redline 460's. I'm not hearing a tick so I don't think I'm hitting the riser. All arrow shaft are between 29 1/2 and 30 1/2 inches long. I need a 29 1/2 inch shaft for a minimum. Point weights tried vary from 100 grs. to 175 grs. Everything indicates weak. I plan on trying some 2216 next. Any ideas?
I have a LH arroyo that is 50# @ 28" as well. My draw is about 29" and my bow shoots 2216's with 125grain and 145 grain tips well. My arrows are 31" long. I think having it cut past center makes it shoot stiff arrows better, but someone better qualified could probably answer that better. Alot of people told me that these arrows would be too stiff for my bow but changed their mind after seeing me shoot.
Thanks, appreciate the info.
I always shot 30" AD Trads out of mine with 175 grain point and they flew great. Mine was a 58" 53@28.
Leroy, I checked out the AD's. They're a pretty stiff shaft. I'll try some stiffer shafts and see what happens. Thanks.
I too just picked up an Arroyo over the last 3 weeks. Its 55# @ 28" and I draw 28. I was bareshafting 2117's and I have them cut to 29", and they too are showing weak. Just the slightest bit though. I just went ahead and fletched them, and they fly good enough for me.
I won't be shooting in any archery competitions or anything, so as long as I can hit a softball at 20 yards I'm happy.
How far is it cut past center?
You may need to build out the side plate.
A .500 with 125 tip should fly fine,or a .400 with more up front.
Some bows will tune much better when you build out the sideplate.
58@28 31" 55/75 goldtip trads with 175 up front. Perfect flight.
I tried the 2216's @ 31". Better. I'll trim a little and try again. Looks like to me, for some reason a 360 carbon might work.
I shoot a Heritage 150 cut to 29.5"s and 175 grain up front out of my 54" 54# at 28.5" draw. Sorry but those 2216's even at 31"s are stiff. Ya want a shaft to bareshaft a bit weak as when ya fletch them up it will stiffen them a bit. The 400's with 250 up front may be good and the 500s cut to 29.5"s with 150 grains up front should be about perfect. They are cut over 1/4" past center in many cases, so build out the strike plate a bit and you will be fine. The 2016s with 100 grains or so should fly perfect too! Shawn
Shawn, I have my doubts that this bow is cut past center that far. If I eye ball it, splitting the limbs with the string the arrow point is about 2 arrow diameters to the left of the string (RH bow). This should call for a weaker spined arrow. I'm not having problems with fletched shafts just bare shafts. As I said, everything bare shafted is indicating weak. I might be getting some false readings due to riser contact. I'll powder the riser and see what happens. I agree, logic would say a weaker shaft is needed. I'm just not seeing it from my testing.
Surprised the Beman 400's are notworking for you. I shoot 2018's with 125gr point out of two 53#@29" longbows and works great.
2216's sounds way too stiff. I had to shoot 250gr tips to get 2216's to work out of my 50-53# bows.
But alot of factors at work. Peoples release seems to be the biggest.
There are no rules as you know.
I don't have an arroyo, but my RER td recurves 52# shoot 2216's perfectly and I have a short draw maybe 26.5 to 27 ".
I have a tedency to need a stiffer spine than reccomended to me. It has been across the board with every bow. I am sure it is my release. If it works use it.
Don't let anyone tell you an arrow is too stiff or weak when your looking at the results. Someone else may get weaker shafts to fly perfectly, but you are the one shooting it not them.
I have only had luck with the planing method. Fletch up 6 shafts, 3 with broadheads and 3 with feild tips. If they fly to the same spot your good to go.
QuoteOriginally posted by HATCHCHASER:
I have a tedency to need a stiffer spine than reccomended to me. It has been across the board with every bow. I am sure it is my release. If it works use it.
Don't let anyone tell you an arrow is too stiff or weak when your looking at the results. Someone else may get weaker shafts to fly perfectly, but you are the one shooting it not them.
I have only had luck with the planing method. Fletch up 6 shafts, 3 with broadheads and 3 with feild tips. If they fly to the same spot your good to go.
While I use O.L.'s method of comparing the impact points fletched to unfletched, I totally agree with Wally here. I too have to use shafts stiffer than others do...but it works for me.
Good post there Wally! Hope to see you 6/7 at my place for the Northern Zone shoot.
Call Kevin as everyone I have seen is cut well past center, mine is 1/4" past and maybe a tad more. I am sure they are cut past center and Kevin could tell how much. Shawn
Hatchchaser, you're right and that is the same conclusion I came to. I ordered some stiffer carbons but they haven't arrived yet. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the advice.
My 62" 43# Arroyo 28" draw took me a while to bareshaft arrows for aswell , they just shoot so hard . My Arroyo is cut around 1/4" past centre also
Ended up shooting 54# spine 29 1/2 " nock tapered timber arrows with a 125 grain point , 3 x 4 " high cut feathers 520 grain average
Vapor 4000's 29 3/4" 100 grain brass incert , 125 grain adapter and 160 grain field point 3 x4" highcut feathers 714 grain
2216's with a 125 grain adapter and 160 grain point shoot well also
On paper the carbons should be way stiff but shoot excellant , the woods slightly underspined but shoot excellant . Generally though its best to bare shaft tune to a tad underspined and then fletch your arrows .
I cant figure , just beg borrow and steal arrows from your mates until you find the answer
Here's what worked. 175 gr. point, Epic 340's cut to 30 3/4". Showed a little weak bare shafting, perfect flight fletched. Who would have thunk it?