Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Cherry Tree on August 19, 2021, 09:02:57 AM
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Does it matter what is used for a limb tip over lay for a FF string. Is just hardwood ok or do you want to use always have some phenolic in there? Thanks!
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I have selfbows with fast flight type strings and no overlays so I'd say that, yes, hardwood tip overlays would be fine. Antler and horn also work well. The direction of the grain of the overlay would make a difference. I make only wood bows so these glass bow builders may have more insight into whether hardwood tip overlays are OK on glass bows with FF strings.
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I build low stress design bows and use no tip reinforcement with 452X. I do sometimes put cosmetic tip overlays on, but it's just for vanity.
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Does it matter what is used for a limb tip over lay for a FF string. Is just hardwood ok or do you want to use always have some phenolic in there? Thanks!
Hardwood is fine, just don't use one of the softer woods like black walnut.
Mark
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On selfbows, tip overlays are primarily cosmetic except on some softer woods.
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I like phenolic personally, maybe with a sliver of wood on top for color. I have seen enough pics of bows with the limb split in 3 pcs down the limb from nock that I just use phenolic to save the hassle...
I probably have some little pcs of it if you want some.
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I like G10 with some wood over that. Then some clear glass .
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Particularly im asking about fiberglass recurves sounds like phenolic is the way to go i looking for something I don't have to worry about. How thick do you think it needs to be talking phenolic or g10 and just those then what you would do with a thin piece of wood over that but I'm a plan simple guy and like my tips pretty thin.
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I use 2 - 1/16" phenolic, that way I don't have to shape to fit limb curve, it flexes enough...
The wood on top is just if I feel fancy...
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I like that way of thinking Kennym what do you use for glue? I like smooth on but I don't put it back under heat...bugs me even at lower temp. Never had the regular two part epoxy from a hardware store fall off either.
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Either EA40 or blue cap gorilla CA , no heat needed . The EA40 gives a bit more time but the CA isn't bad on tip overlays.
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Just as important as a little reinforcment is the shape og your string groove. If you would cut the tip off thru the groove the end shopuld be tear drop shaped. tO FINISH i ROLL A PIECE OF 320 GRIT EMERY CLOTH :knothead: caps lock. and shoe shine the groove.
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Mike and Kenny offer very good advice.
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Thanks for the tips guys much appreciated!
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I’ve been doing a single piece of g-10 1/8” thick. Had a nock failure upon release awhile back practically dry firing the bow. Had to get a new string was all it broke several strands in the dry fire one. The g-10 seemed to go unscathed.
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Wood will break I found out even diamond wood will chip out, use g10 or linen micarta for looks put horn over it not antler . Horn is soft and resilient, glues well and makes a great tip overlay over g10. Antler expands and contracts with temps and humidity and eventually pops off .
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I made a 2 pc trade bow a few years back, had it sprayed and drew it a couple times, heard a tic, and found the glass wrap had cracked at the top edge.
You can't send a trade bow like that, so I put it on the shooting machine and drew it to 30" , turned my head and dry fired it. Nothing!
So I put it on back burner, made another trade bow and shipped it.
Later I re did the sleeve but have yet to grind it back to grip shape.
Anyway I think the phenolic did it's job on that one!!