I've successfully glued up my first BBO and am in the process of fitting the handle piece to the curve of the R/D handle. I'm using a toothing plane to work the wood off and I have a decent fit on one side, but a bit of a gap (maybe 3/64)on the other side. I can see light through it and a sheet of paper folded once or twice would probably fit in it. See pics below. Is this too big of a gap to fill with U-185?
Overall view of Handle fit
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d83/skendrot/IMG_0823.jpg)
Close up of gap.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d83/skendrot/IMG_0828.jpg)
Also, in working the wood to shape, I've lost more thickness than I intended and the handle depth is about 1 1/8" without the Boo. Should I consider a 1/8" lam between the slat and the handle piece to give me more meat in the handle? An accent stripe might be nice anyway. Curious how lam would affect fit.
Help??
did you allready glue the handle on??? i bet a strip of phenolic would look good. or cocobolo
The gap looks a little thick for my liking, but if you clamp it tight during the glue up the gap will close some. I guess it depends on how big of a glue line you can live with. Also, with a handle that thin you might have problems it popping off because it is unable to prevent that section of the bow from moving. You might try adding a power lam between the bow and the riser or building up the riser area with additional wood.
To solve this problem you might just try using multiple thin laminations in the handle. This way you can just clamp it up without worrying about getting it cut/sanded just right. It's how I do all my bows now. Good luck! Matt
Yep, I have the same problem. I do as suggested by mmgrode. Add one thin lam maybe 1/8 inch or so and you will find that it adds to the looks and helps with those gaps.
RayMO
Multiple lams about .300" thick will bend and fit perfectly. It is the easiest way to "fit the handle. Use three and you will have the thickness you want and an attractive stripe pattern.
Mike
Alright! Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like a trip to the lumber yard is in order. I'm a bit worried about clamping to close the gap and altering the R/D in the process.
Steve, shouldn't loose much deflex at all. The reason for the power lam under the boo is that its there will not move can't sand it away like an added lam on the belly, remember the limb needs to move a tad right out of the flares, you can always add a .125 lam of osage running to mid limb on the belly before you glue the handle on that would give you enough thickness so the handle area won't move, whatever happens its a learnng experience and just have fun.
JD
I stacked one hickory and 5 ipe laminations together for this handle. It's the best way for R/D glue ups I have found. I glue up the bow in the first stage and add the handle later. This one has really long fade outs to avoid popping off the handle. I think this handle will work well. I'll let you know.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Reflex-Deflex%20BBI/Gluedupandcleaned-4.jpg)
JD- If the powerlam goes between the boo and the ossage belly stock, I don't have one. This is my very first bow (other than an underweight maple board bow) and I was trying to keep it simple. Pretty much following Dean's video blow by blow. How long should power lambs be, and I imagine they have to be feather tapered for s smooth transition into the belly stock?
I'm going to try a layered handle like everyone suggests here. Oh well, the handle peice I worked on was good practice with the toothing plane.
Steve
What kind of glue are you using to glue on the handle?
I like the thinner lams myself. Here's one in the works and you can see how they work.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/Flinttim/Bows%20and%20stuff/MVC-003F-3.jpg)
Urac 185 to glue on the handle Apex...