Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: wood carver 2 on May 28, 2021, 04:48:14 PM
-
I was wondering what kind of solutions guys here have come up with to solve problems in the shop.
Here’s one I have at work for a portable table saw.
Simple enough, but it catches 90% of the dust from the saw. I also used an elbow from a rain gutter to catch sawdust from a mitresaw and shoot it down into a barrel, also at work.
Dave.
-
Ha bout everything I do is redneck :bigsmyl:
-
It run on ac or dc?
-
It’s kind of a hippie redneck. It runs on green energy.
Note that it’s close by the dumpster. If it doesn’t catch sawdust, it gets chucked. 😁
Actually, it works great. Almost all the sawdust goes in. I stuck a 45 degree fitting from a shopvac onto the saw’s outlet and it fits into the slot in the box. It’s pretty dusty and dirty at work and I’m not big on sweeping up all the time.
Dave.
-
I boxed in the end of my table saw. The majority of the dust flew out that end when cutting.
I boxed in the bottom too and I attach the shop vac hose to a hole I cut in the bottom right under the blade.
That stopped about 99% of the dust.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
You sure about this Dave? If I start in on this thread, the administrators are going to need to upgrade their server :laugh:
-
Flem just forget all about it..
:laughing:
-
Go for it Flem. Some of the best inventions came from redneck shops.
Some are good entertainment, but there are a lot of really good ideas out there.
Dave.
-
My best so far;
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
Here is one I just completed recently. It"s my FrankenVac. It's got a salvaged 3 stage motor (1 is standard)
A 12V reverse osmosis pump strapped on up front and a 3 gal hot water tank(bucket) in the back. It does double duty as shop vac and hot water extractor. That 3 stage motor sucks so hard it collapses the lid. It's so loud with that stainless tank, I have to wear 2 types of ear plugs :biglaugh:
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
That's a doozy...
:laughing: :thumbsup:
-
Here is my dust collector. Almost all scrap, salvage or on hand materials, except for the bag and flex tubing. The impeller housing is a modified HVAC squirrel cage fan. The fittings are DWV and stove pipe. The impeller is homemade from a large traffic sign that was discarded due to damage, not pilfered!
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Cool beans, Flem. :thumbsup:
-
Flem I like your way of thinking
-
:thumbsup:
-
That impeller got me thinking about something else......
I built a set of balancing ways to make it. If you are making any machinery with spinning parts, like an impeller or sanding drum, it's not enough to make it round or cylindrical., it need to be balanced.
I made this set out of scrap plywood and 2 Starret 6" rules for the contact surface.
I also modified it to use for building and truing bike wheels, but can convert it back for balancing.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
:thumbsup:
-
Flem neat stuff. I got to ask about the bales. are you in a barn or them back stops.
-
Bales are for insulation...
Don't ya know Flemmy improvises everything?:)
-
Flem, you should document your inventions. You have a lot of good ideas.
Dave.
-
Yes indeed the bales are insulation. Damn good insulation too! Also make great rodent habitat.
Thanks Dave, but most of my ideas are not inventions, only creations.
-
What?? Am I the only goofball who cobbles crap together?
Well here is another creation. I made this Sled/Shooting board jig years ago to deal with some fancy grain wood that was getting washboarded going thru the drum sander. It's mostly MDF offcuts. The bed to the right of the sled, is not fixed and is shimmed for thickness. The 2 sets of 1/4" strips are placed on the inside edges of the sled for the stock removal tools to ride on. One set is tapered, the other parallel. The Al strips and other odd pieces go under the bed to shim for thickness. The bed has sandpaper glued down to keep the lams from slipping. It's very accurate, more so than machine tapered lams, in fact I true up all my lams with this jig after milling. It is slow but gets the job done. This would be a decent setup for someone who wants to make their own lams but does not have a machine sander. Couple of things to note, one is everything must be square, flat and planar. The other thing is, the rails are a wear item and need to be checked and replaced when worn. Even materials like MDF, which appear to be very uniform, have defects and need to be checked carefully to insure the accuracy of the jig
-
Flem you impress the chit out of me wif all your homemade tools.
Other than that I guess yer just ok:)
-
That is an awesome idea. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You might get more life out of the rails if you make them out of uhmw plastic.
Dave.
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
Thats a great idea Dave! It would also reduce the friction, which I start to notice after working a dozen lams. I do try to keep all the sliding surfaces shellacked and waxed.
Something I have thought about for this jig is a mini drum that could slide along the rails. Kind of like a handheld planer.
-
Actually, a hand held electric plane would be a great idea. It would make short work of a set of lams.
Dave.
-
Speaking of electric planers, I recently bought an inexpensive one for a job I have to do in the basement. I have to flatten the osb sub floor that swelled a bit when it got wet. I’m thinking of attaching the little planer to a base to use it as a mini jointer for bamboo.
Dave.
-
The only hand held planers I have used were good for hogging wood. I think they would have chewed up something less than 1/8" thick.
-
I have an electric hand planer. Still haven't found a job for it but maybe It could work in your jigamathing.
-
I don’t use mine a lot. It really shines if you build doors. My Dad taught me to build doors with through mortises and wedges. Planing by hand is difficult, but a power plane does a beautiful job. I have a good one with a curved blade for this. The cheap one I just bought can be used where I would never use an expensive one. It should make a good mini jointer.
Dave.
-
Oh, and boat builders like them for working on planking. 😁
Dave.
-
In the spirit of Dave's original post, here is a cardboard shroud for my 2X 72 belt grinder (homemade also)
I have some G-10 (also homemade) to grind flat and the stuff is so nasty to deal with. The dust sticks to everything. I have a set of clothes for glass grinding only. I am hopeful the shroud with limit the dust float. I even coated all the surfaces I can get to with Top Cote, including the cardboard! Love the material, loathe the dust
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Flem, do you have plans for your grinding machine. Looks like it would be good for knife making.
-
Funny you should ask Pat, because thats one reason I made it. The other was I wanted an edge sander, but not a stand alone machine.
I can get by with this 2" unit, because i make straight limb bows. In the horizontal position I have 24" of platen to work on.
This is what it looks like vertically. The table comes off and gets bolted onto the upright angle iron, for horizontal use
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
X2 on the grinder plans if you don’t mind. I have two or three motors and I have been wanting a knife grinder.
Dave.
-
There are hundreds of videos and tutorials on making 2 X 72" belt grinders. I watched them all. Then I let all that stew around with my inventory of crap and waited for an idea to gel. So no plans, just knew that it had to serve multiple purposes and be from materials on hand.
It's literally made from a bizarre collection of random pieces from bins and piles. I did buy the skateboard wheels.
Here is a pic of the framework
-
Flem that one looks pretty easy build
-
:thumbsup:
-
Really easy Stic, just needed a drill press and a hack saw.
-
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I grew up in Appalachia, but prefer the term "Leftneck," but maybe that's a story for another day...
Anyway, after years of shooting carbons, I'm assembling my first set of wood arrows. Nothing fancy, just a wipe on poly before I fletch them.
It occurred to me I needed to contrive something to hold them while they dried. We're a hour drive from a store that sells anything other than beer and lotto tickets, so a quick poke around the Gettin' Place in the garage revealed a 1x2 I'd previously used as part of a target stand for some overly enthusastic beginners.
After some judicious trimming around some bullet holes, and with the addition of some chain, fence staples and binder clips, I'm in business.
I might make a 2.0 version in the future.
-
Ha! Could not let this thread disappear. So this is a project I had been putting off for a long time. Gave myself a deadline that it would have to be done before I mill any more Yew. Time's up. it's not perfect, but still works really well. It's mostly friction fit and wedged pieces. Used a total of 3 fasteners. Just did not want to go to a lot of trouble with this saw, even though all I have done with it is modify, since I bought it :knothead:
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I had to use some polyethylene packing foam to fit a few odd shaped spaces. Did not make it tight either, needs make-up air to draw the dust out.
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
(https://i.imgur.com/WtvVkXf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9PikxiZ.jpg)
-
...and a 10 speed no less!
Hey, I thought you were leaving town. We almost started talking about you. Glad we waited. :laughing:
-
Monday morning :jumper:
I cleared my browsing history and came on here as a guest to watch :laughing:
-
Did some sawing and testing of the Wedgie Bandsaw Cabinet. First cut was 40" of 5" diameter Yew.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
It's about 1 heaping Tablespoon of dust that the cabinet did not catch. Thats from the base, machine and a 5' radius of clean floor.
This pile is from resawing the half log, a total of 40' linear X avg. 2" height.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
About the same amount.
-
OK, now I'm going OCD on this dust collection. I noticed that all the saw dust that was not being captured, was from the beginning of the cut, before the blade is fully buried into the wood. Slid a piece of sheet metal under the fence clamps and this magnetic port connected to my shop vac took care of it.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
My saga continues. Since this is a learning experience for me, I thought I would share. I might be crazy, but I always figure there must be at least one other nut job looking to do dirtbag mods.
So I opened up the cabinet and discovered a pile of neatly contained sawdust.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I'm thinking either my port is not in the ideal location, or I need more makeup air. The port panel is square, so I can turn it to see if it makes a difference. Also going to experiment with intake amount and location.
I also now know why the manufactures put the dust port on the side. I took care of it with a 4" 90
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
The lower port looks like it’s in the right place. That’s where the blade should be dumping most of the dust. My Grizz has a port on the side right below the lower guides and a second port in the back, lower right side. I think that it does a good job, but it doesn’t get everything. I’m not that fussy about sawdust though. As long as it gets the majority of it. Most saws also have a brush inside that scrapes dust off the blade before the blade contacts the lower wheel.
Dave.
-
That's totally unacceptable.
I thought you were more redneck than that?
Drill another hole at the bottom of the sawdust pile and add another vacuum hose there.
Or if it were mine, I'd say the hell wif it.
:laughing:
-
Well, a real redneck would just do his sawing outside and to heck with the dust.
Better still, when the wind is blowing towards someone that you don’t like. 😁
Dave.
-
My saga continues.
Is there a wiper/brush to clean the sawdust off the blade before it hits the bottom wheel? My vintage 12" saw seems to be dragging a lot of particles onto the lower wheel and having them crushed into the tire under the blade. I'm thinking I need a wiper of some sort and a vacuum hose sitting there to suck it all up.
Drill another hole at the bottom of the sawdust pile and add another vacuum hose there.
That is definitely more redneck. What about a row of smallish holes on the backside of the collector where that pile is to allow it to be sucked up by the collection hose? The sawdust will sit where the air velocity is lowest so there is likely a stagnation point down in that corner.
Mark
-
Pay attention Mark.
I said drill a hole at the bottom of the pile.
The vac hose will assist the gravity forces and the sawdust will go out dah hole.
Ole Flemmy boy will fugger it out.
:laughing:
-
Pay attention Mark.
I said drill a hole at the bottom of the pile.
I understand that, but you suggested a second vacuum hose. I just suggested holes to let more air in and sweep the dust over to the existing collection port.
Mark
-
Nope not gonna do it.
:laughing:
-
I have become increasingly allergic to any wood dust over the last few years, it doesn't take much to mess me up. I have a two prong approach to the dust problem.
#1 and #2, I have to wear the mask now or else.
-
I have become increasingly allergic to any wood dust over the last few years, it doesn't take much to mess me up. I have a two prong approach to the dust problem.
#1 and #2, I have to wear the mask now or else.
Thats what I am trying to avoid! I always wear a mask, either an N95 or P100. And I hate to say it, but even the best filter type mask won't do you much good if you are not clean shaven. If you have a beard, get a positive pressure mask.
Speaking of filtration....... I thought it was time to clean my home made shop air filter. Damn thing is heavy!
Apparently I made it back when I was much stronger. The two first filters are standard 12X24 furnace filters. They seem to do most of the work, there is hardly anything in the 1 micron bag filter. I used a squirrel cage fan, salvaged from a fireplace heater. It's a little noisy, but it's 4 speed and was free. The insulation helps cut down the drone.
-
:thumbsup:
-
I was back at the bandsaw cabinet again. Roy, I believe you are right about the dust post location. After some experimentation, I determined the spinning lower wheel acts as a partial shield for the falling dust. The stuff that falls to the back of the cabinet does not get the same amount of vacuum as the front. A port in the bottom, centered under the wheel would be perfect. Unfortunately my stand has a solid metal top! Just don't feel like disassembling the entire thing to cut a hole. I did rotate the port to the lowest position and that definitely increased the dust uptake. I also opened up a plug on the bottom of the frame and that really did the trick. My dust collector was designed to handle chips from a 15" Planer, so it moves a lot of air. I thought that not sealing up the cabinet would provide enough make up air and it probably would have with a 2" port.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Ya did good Flem...
:thumbsup:
You seen the dust collection mod I did on my bandsaw. I get a tiny tiny bit of dust in the same area as you did but I wasn't worried all that much about it.
Ya see I'm a real redneck :) LOL
-
Does this count as a redneck invention? It's my anti-vibration set up for my high fidelity sound system. With the CD player siting on my work bench the CDs skip like crazy when I'm working on a bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/4ELex0u.jpg)
...and how can I listen to sounds like these if the CD player is skipping over each song...
(https://i.imgur.com/hKXEhXT.jpg)
-
Does this count as a redneck invention?
OH hell yes:)
-
Glad I qualify. :thumbsup:
-
Heck yeah! Thats awesome. Redneck and Hillbilly
-
Redneck and Hillbilly.
But what's we gonna call Kenny?
:laughing:
-
Does this count as a redneck invention? It's my anti-vibration set up for my high fidelity sound system. With the CD player siting on my work bench the CDs skip like crazy when I'm working on a bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/4ELex0u.jpg)
...and how can I listen to sounds like these if the CD player is skipping over each song...
(https://i.imgur.com/hKXEhXT.jpg)
That’s awesome!
Dave.
-
I reckon you can call kenny a hippie...
Cuz, how can you listen to sounds like that at all?? :laughing:
-
Ok since I was out in the shop, I took some pictures of my bandsaw.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
It was filled with dust, so I started cleaning it out. I get a kick out of the way the dust layers up when I don’t use the dust collector. You can see the dust collector port in this pic.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Here’s the location of the upper port. Both ports are 4”. I put in a Y coupler on the back of the saw.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I was mistaken about the location of the brush. It’s on the upper left of the drive wheel. I think that the brush is important in that it prevents sawdust from getting stuck to the wheel. If there’s much of a buildup on the wheel, it will cause tracking problems.
Dave.
-
Dave,
Thanks for those pictures, they are exactly what I needed to place some brushes on my saw.
Mark
-
No problem Mark. The brushes have to be pretty stiff to keep the tire clean.
The dust collection in this saw is pretty efficient. I do lots of little cuts where I don’t bother to hook up the dust collector, so the saw cabinet gets filled up to the wheel. When I do hook it up, it clears almost completely in a few seconds.
Dave.
-
Dave , thats just like my saw, I put a pc of duct tape over half the bottom dust port to try to increase the suction at the guides.
-
Pat, I'm afraid thats pretty Bohemian music for a Redneck or a Hillbilly. Sometime back in the 90s', I was afraid that I had developed an "MTV" attention span and forced myself to listen to symphonic music and improv jazz. I don't know if it improved my attention span, but I did discover that any and all music is only an acquired taste.
I'm going out on a limb here, but I think I might be the only bowyer in a 500mi radius that listens to opera in the shop....... and admits it :biglaugh:
-
I like opera but don't have any CDs of it except on a few Mozart CDs. I like all sorts of music from my era, my daughter's era(1980s) and all sorts of jazz and classical. Good music is good music! :readit:
-
I'm going out on a limb here, but I think I might be the only bowyer in a 500mi radius that listens to opera in the shop....... and admits it :biglaugh:
Shaking my head:)
-
Led Zeppelin and A/C/D on full blast in my shop. :wavey:
-
I'm with Bue!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
Led Zeppelin and A/C/D on full blast in my shop. :wavey:
I do some of that too :thumbsup:
Mostly when I need to drown out the sound of grinding metal. Which is when I use my homemade spark arrestor for my homemade dust collector.
Its a couple PVC fittings, window screen, metal plate from a coffee press and a piece of used floor buffing pad.
Never used one until one day I noticed a smell unlike grinding metal.
Fortunately I always empty the barrel and bag before grinding steel. Still can't believe a hot piece made it thru 6' of hose, into and out of the barrel, up thru the impeller and still had enough heat to smolder in the bag.
-
Led Zeppelin for sure.
40s, 50's, 60s, 70s(I don't mind a little disco), 80's 90, and so on. Heck, even back in the 1890 with Scott Joplin
-
Led Zeppelin for sure.
40s, 50's, 60s, 70s(I don't mind a little disco), 80's 90, and so on. Heck, even back in the 1890 with Scott Joplin
1890, heck you are older than I thought:)
:wavey:
-
Yeah, me and Scott spend lots of time enjoying ragtime music.
-
I had to modify my SuperVac, it was too tippy with the pump strapped on and the bucket shelf needed to be above the pump to self prime. The first version was a cluster #$%&. Second version is much more functional and looks good too! I think it can double as a beverage cart for shop parties.
First version: [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Improved version: [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Big improvement. You can put a whole case of aiming fluid on there.
Dave.
-
Pretty sure this qualifies as Redneck. In my dream world, it's an Elk taxi. In the real world its a training device. We have hundreds of miles of decommissioned logging and old mining roads around. You can't drive on them, but you might get lucky and be able to use one to cut a few miles out of a brutal, multi trip, hump.
I made the cart out of EMT, 2X2, chunk of street sign(decommissioned), and a pair of wheels off a BMX bike.
The yoke is a block of Maple carved to ride up/down and sideways on the seat post, with a 5"X 5/8" Maple dowel epoxied in the other end. The EMT neck rides on the dowel and is free to rotate. It actually does OK on uneven terrain, but without suspension you got to go slow to keep it on the ground!
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Pretty cool Flem.
-
Yep, it qualifies. With a little "cool" added like rhinestones mud flaps you'd be chillin. :thumbsup: :clapper:
I bet it really shines when elk season is in.
-
I forgot to mention the straps are from a sample pack of reinforced rubber raft material. The stuff is unbelievably tough. The pedal straps were sized to fit my hiking boots. I discovered during the process of making the straps, that super glue gel chemically welds the rubber material together. It melted and fused. I don't think the rivets were necessary, but since I have no experience welding neoprene, I thru them in for insurance.
-
Cool. You make all kinds of stuff Flem.
-
Pretty cool Flem.
Yee haw! :bigsmyl:
-
Thought I should move my newest Redneck mod over to where it belongs. So after I broke the upper guide bushing holder on my bandsaw I had a couple of options. Buy a replacement, epoxy as was suggested, or fab up something. Considering the original casting had been driving me nuts since day one, with all the slop and backlash, I decided not to do a repeat. That and no way was I going to pass up an opportunity to McHillbilly something together.
So this is my current state of mod. I added an side blade guard, still needs something in the front.
Since all the slop was gone from the guide assembly, I decided it would be good to get rid of the guide rod torque from misalignment. I filed a flat channel into the V groove that the adjustment screw previously registered into. Bad design and no fitment meant that thing use to twist and shift every time it was tightened. I also filed the screw end flat and spotted a little crater for a ball bearing to locate into. Tightens up straight now.
The plastic cradling the blade is as Max noticed, UHMW plastic. Its for sure a wear item, but it will be easy to replace. I had been using the same material as blocks in the stock guides and it actually holds up well.
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
You are a a Redneck :laughing:
Nice fix
-
Redneck as heck, except for one little thing.... a guard? What redneck uses a guard?
I have a lovely little scar in the shape of a Nike logo on my middle knuckle from my bandsaw.
Dave.
-
Just kidding of course. Guards a great, when they are designed right.
Dave.
-
Thanks guys, sometimes it pays to be a McGuyvering, Redneck, Hillbilly fabricator. This bandsaw fix came out surprisingly well. Usually I have time to wait for an Immaculate Conceptualization, but I did not have that luxury with the saw as I was right in the middle of a project. Thinking in real time does not always yield the most optimum results for me!
-
Nice work flem.
Sometimes the quick fixes work out better than the original.
-
i can't imagine anybody is crazy enough to try and replicate anything I have done, but just in case, be safe! Even cave man creations have to be safe to use. I used the saw once before I put the front shield on. Gave me the Heebie-jeebies.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
I could say that I have been saving the best for last, but that would be a lie. Although this might be the best thing I have made :bigsmyl:
I can't even claim the design as my own. I first saw this design in use at a beach in Oregon when I was a kid. I was walking with my Uncle when we saw a guy he knew rolling a big a$$ log down the beach. We helped him get it to his trailer. He was a woodworker and I remember him saying he was pretty sure it was Teak. He had cut it into pieces to move it.
My version is probably the most useful tool I have made. It will roll thru forest, over scree, uphill, downhill, this sucker goes almost anywhere! Can't count the cords of firewood moved on this contraption. Plus arrow wood, bow wood, etc...
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Not much too it. A piece of grade 8 all thread with a sleeve of steel pipe, 4X4 carriage and some beefy wheels that I actually purchased. The logs pictures, I calculated at 350-400lbs.
-
With some adjustments, it will carry a canoe or a kayak.
I should build one for my duck boat.
Dave.
-
Nice...
-
Where in Montana do you live Flem?
-
That's pretty cool, Flem..
-
Where in Montana do you live Flem?
Far west, 10 miles as the crow flies from Idaho
-
Cool we went to cooke city silver back down into Wyoming and back up to red lodge to eat.
Cool place :thumbsup:
-
Thats nice country up on the Beartooth plateau. I think it might be the only place in the lower 48 that has permafrost.
-
Firewood time! Had a log too big to roll on my carriage cart, so I cut it up to wheel around on the Elk taxi.
If anybody thought it looked hokey, you were right, it does look hokey. Looks can be deceiving, this thing will carry more weight than I want to pull thru the woods. These chunks weight about 150-200lbs
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Anyone who thinks that it’s hokey is welcome to carry out logs like that on their shoulders. Or an expensive four wheeler.
Redneck inventions get the job done with less money and sometimes they are the better solution.
Dave.
-
So if you are a cheap SOB like me and when constructing something, just use whatever is on hand, you end up with office chair casters on a rolling tool stand. Of course the intention is to eventually replace them with proper casters.
But that never happens and every time you go to use the tool, the damn thing is moving around. So here is the work around. C-clamps! Works with any and all casters, non locking or locking.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Redneck, check
-
Been grinding a lot of "G-10" material, or what I refer to my homemade stuff as, FlemOlite-69.
I previously made a shroud for my 2X72 grinder in the horizontal position, but not the vertical orientation.
Took care of that yesterday. Cardboard and packing tape, what Redneck could live without them?
I did spend some time fitting it to the machine, its one piece and it only needs two mini spring clamps to hold it in place.
And the best part is that it actually works well!
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I did add a skirt to the front and might add more pieces depending on how OCD I get with dust collection.
I like working with composites, but I really hate the itchy grinding part.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
I guess it's ok..
:thumbsup:
-
FlemOlite-69... :laughing: :laughing:
Nice rig... As long as it works...
-
It does actually work. Honestly I would have been happy if it just kept the nasty dust from flying into the air, but with the cardboard containment, the air being pulled into the scoop seems to be sucking in from the critical areas where it was being spewed before. I was doing most of my shaping of FlemOlite without power tools just to avoid the nastiness. This should help speed up the process. Some things need to be done as expediently as possible.
-
Well... I figured it worked if you posted it on here... :thumbsup:
-
Here is something scary to get you in the mood for Halloween.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Home made tree stands :scared: Looks like some critters have been gnawing on them.
Pretty sure those are redneck
-
Finally got cold here. Had to fire up the Redneck workshop heat exchanger. Can't imagine someone else has not done this with a wood stove, but I've not seen it documented. Pumps out consistent 150-200deg air, once the stove is fired. Does require regular feeding, but fuel is cheap. I burn scrap, twigs, limbs. Unlimited and free supply.
Had to erect the A frame behind it, to protect the ducting(v2) going into the shop. Sliding snow and ice off the roof mangled the first set
-
Yupper that's Redneck..
:thumbsup:
-
That foil backed panel behind the stove looks like it's about to spontaneously combust... :campfire:
I am not sure I am comprehending this whole thing... But wouldn't the stove transmit heat better if it was inside the shop??
-
Ya know, they make them nails with rubber collars to hold metal rooves down. 😉
-
Ya know, they make them nails with rubber collars to hold metal rooves down. 😉
I've heard of those. Rocks are much more interesting :bigsmyl:
That foil backed panel behind the stove looks like it's about to spontaneously combust... :campfire:
I am not sure I am comprehending this whole thing... But wouldn't the stove transmit heat better if it was inside the shop??
Absolutely. the problem is supporting and anchoring 25' of insulated stove pipe up the outside of my house that the sliding snow and ice will want to remove all winter. Plus I can't afford to loose the footprint and clearance the stove would need in my shop.
All the insulation is mineral wool, even the foil faced stuff. I don't think I have got the inside over 250deg
-
Back again at the thread that would not die.
I was so pleased with my new creation, I though I better put it where it belongs.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Its the bench top heat corral. Five pieces of used 1/2" thermax, one bench vice and two shoelaces hold it together. The heat source is a 4' IR heat lamp that lives over the bench. Temperature can be adjusted by raising or lowering the lamp. And since its IR, it heats objects really fast! I accidentally got a test 4"X4" piece up to 320deg with the lamp too close.
-
I’ll assume the stove is outside because there’s what appears to be a wall of Hay Bales inside, or is that just a decor feature to make it feel cozy?
-
Thats right Noah, it is a decor feature and it does make it feel cozy! Like R35 cozy
But that not why the stove is outside. I can't afford to loose the footprint in my shop and I would need 25' of insulated, secured, stove pipe to meet code clearance. This was actually cheaper and easier to accomplish, plus the heat exchanger hut is modular, so I can pick it up and use it for a different task in the future. Not to mention the home insurers hit you hard for having wood heat in your house. This solution avoids that extra expense.