Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Carpdaddy on May 25, 2021, 08:37:35 AM
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As seen already on another thread I made a new riser to go with my old limbs. I wanted something lighter for hunting, and a little different grip. So through all my mistakes I managed to finish my accidental Cherry riser. But then I discovered something that surprised me, the same arrows don’t shoot the same?!?? I did my best to make a exact copy of the old one, but I’m not the sharpest knife in the drawer! :banghead: The bow is about 41-42# @ my 27” draw. I have been using 29” 600 spine arrows, with 175gr points. They fly great even bare shaft. That is until I made the new riser! Now the back is kicking left and point hitting right. I changed to 145gr points and same thing, even tried 200 thinking maybe back was hitting riser and kicking left, same. Here is my question for today. What did I do? :dunno:
By the way, last night I pulled out some 500 spine, 250 & 300gr up front, problem solved. But why
Did I accidentally change limb pad angle?
...Change distance between bolts?
...Draw farther or shoot different?
...Cut more or less to center?
...Arrars don’t like Cherry?
...Etc... What would you guess here? :coffee:
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Top 3
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...Cut more or less to center?
Or brace height is different.
Try raising the brace height for fun.
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I would go with what these guys are saying about center and how far you cut your window... I would definitely check how your limbs are bending... If your limbs are not bending true and in line your arrow will think the strike plate is too deep or not deep enough... Just taking a wild guess here... Have no experience with this but makes sense to me...
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Sight window depth and limb pad angle would be first I'd check, then check limb alignment , etc...
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I should have mentioned that I’m using the same string with the same 7 1/4” brace height. Limb alinement looks good best I can tell. I do think the phenolic riser was cut past center, which I was not willing to do with the Cherry, it is just to center. And yes the grip is purposely thicker and bulkier, just another caution. May be that I am getting a little longer draw due to thickness?? And as mentioned the grip being different. Just surprised me I guess and wanted some input. Most of you are purdy smart fellers! :thumbsup:
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Smart Fellers?? Or Fart Smellers??
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What changed? All the things you listed. Combine them all together and you have the effects you noticed between the two different risers :cheesy:
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No big deal Tony, all ya do is shoot trees anyway:)
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It don't take much diff in centershot. A few thou can make a diff. :thumbsup:
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It’s not really an issue, I just switched arrows, but it did surprise me. And I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn something.
Whatcha talking bout Roy? :dunno:
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And just so ye know, I have shot other things! :laughing: :laughing:
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I would say your center shot difference is it.
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If it's not one stump it's another stump yer sticken an arrow into..
:laughing:
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How could I not get a picture of that shot? :laughing:
I knew I could use it someday. Like today; proving a point to Roy! :thumbsup:
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If there ain't a tree, aim for the wood... :biglaugh:
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:archer2:
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:scared:
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While driving home I thought of another possibility of why the difference, I glued phenolic on the limb pads. I wouldn’t think that a sixteenth of an inch would matter, but sounds like any small change does. :knothead:
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Continued to resist yesterday evening shooting the same 600 spine arrows, convinced in my mind that they should still work, but I lost! Finally I gave in and switched back to the 500 spine, flew great. But if a 500 spine with 250-300grain up front flies good, then why wouldn’t a 600 spine with less tip weight? Guess I’m trying to think too much, and my brain is not use to it, instead of just using what works. I got to get back to the KISS method. Keep It Simple Stupid! :deadhorse:
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Maybe because the 600 spine is too weak to begin with?
And the 500 spine is too stiff, thus the 250 -300 grain tip?
You need a 550 spine arrow:)
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You are probably correct Roy! Not something I’m use to seeing, where would I find such things? Usually see in 100 increments?
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The 550 spine was a joke:)
How long are the 600's, you could cut some off if there is extra shaft out front.
But 600 spine is leaning towards the light side for 40# I think.
I'm betting it is because the cherry riser is not cut as close to center....
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""I do think the phenolic riser was cut past center, which I was not willing to do with the Cherry, it is just to center. ""
If that's the case, the 600s may be too stiff on the new riser. You could be getting a false weak too from hitting the riser.
You will have to keep trying different stuff.
My bro shot arrows that were too stiff for a long time. I couldn't with same weight bow, his release was just better than mine. Got him to try my arrows and now he shoots way better than me. (Not really that hard to do )
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Well Roy, you done sent me in a google goose chase, been looking at 550 spine! :laughing: Funny thing, they do exist, victory, blackeagle, and some others make them. But i gots too many R’s to be buying more! Most all my arrows are 29”, I draw 27”, so little play. The black ones I shot are 30” and do best, so I’ll stick with them. Those new fancy micro diameter shafts with outserts are nice, come in 550 spine, but price hurt my feelings! Especially with several dozen around here, and most bought for $40 per dozen. I watch clearance sales! :smileystooges:
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Yep KennyM, that was my thought, false weak, been tricked by that! But I moved up in weight also on the 600’s and it got ugly! Turned way left in rear and missed target on right! But I’m not a good shot either! :laughing: But I am persistent, or stubborn, in my efforts. Plus I got two dozen 600 spine! :deadhorse:
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Add something behind side plate and try it. Maybe the cherry is at fault... :laughing:
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Add something behind side plate and try it. Maybe the cherry is at fault... :laughing:
Kenny has a point, that cherry might be making your shaft too weak.
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Ain’t touching that Roy! :smileystooges: