Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Buemaker on May 03, 2021, 07:04:13 AM
-
It would be interesting to hear how other people measure draw force curves. According to Blacky Schwarz if brace height is say 8 1/2 inch from deepest point of grip, then add 1 3/4 inch, that makes 10 1/4 inch. Since measuring in 1 inch steps at 10 inches will be zero and next measuring point will be 11 inches. That is how I have been doing it. I guess zero could also be at the string at brace height. How do you do it?
-
It would be interesting to hear how other people measure draw force curves. According to Blacky Schwarz if brace height is say 8 1/2 inch from deepest point of grip, then add 1 3/4 inch, that makes 10 1/4 inch. Since measuring in 1 inch steps at 10 inches will be zero and next measuring point will be 11 inches. That is how I have been doing it. I guess zero could also be at the string at brace height. How do you do it?
Same as you :thumbsup:
-
The way I do it is 8 1/4" would be zero.
-
I've never bothered. :dunno:
-
Me neither..
My BBO bows are too fast as it is:)
-
The way I do it is 8 1/4" would be zero.
8-1/4 would be 8-1/4 starting point next would be 9", pull your bow to 9" hold it and zero the scale, first measurement is 9 to 10".
from 8 1/4 to 9 does not really mean anything because it's not a full inch :thumbsup:
-
The way I do it is 8 1/4" would be zero.
Yes... 8 1/4", 7 1/4", 6 1/4" brace heights would all be your zero's...
Here is a tip when comparing you own bows with your own DFC setup... Once I get my saddle settled in at zero... I have an adjustment screw for my scale... Most all of my bows are 7" brace height... Since 7 1/4" will measure somewhere between .30 to 1. pound I adjust that screw so that all of my DFC's start at .60 pound... With this method you can really compare the numbers more accurately...
-
The way I do it is 8 1/4" would be zero.
8-1/4 would be 8-1/4 starting point next would be 9", pull your bow to 9" hold it and zero the scale, first measurement is 9 to 10".
from 8 1/4 to 9 does not really mean anything because it's not a full inch :thumbsup:
True, but when you actually have the curve in front of you, it would not show the first 3/4" of draw. The whole curve would be shortened and would not show the full increment of energy storage under the curve.
My method would start at 8 1/4 and go to 9" or it could go from 8 1/4 to 10.
Probably not that big of a distinction or difference. :)
-
there are a couple of methods used to calculate stored energy, and comparisions between bows could be complicated if brace height is not the zero point.
adding 1.75" to the deepest part of the grip is the amo way of standardizing draw lengths. useful for when two bows are being compared when the draw length for both is assumed to be the same.
-
Brace is Zero.
But i also measure by AMO.
So If the bow has a 7¼ Bracehight, 9 will be starting Point in the curve.
If Bracehight is 8½, curve Starts at 10¼.
The bow weight is by AMO, the drawlenght ist by AMO, so i measure the curve also by AMO.
-
Oh Lordy Be... I deleted my end of this conversation and am gonna forget that it ever happened... :laughing: :shaka:
-
You are confusing me a Lot.
Was there a missunderstanding?
Or is it still present and you are just out of the conversation?
-
I asked you about 5 posts back if you could somehow insert 10.25" into the graph... It went over your head... I asked you to reread my post plus I think I asked you again... Still went over your head...
Inserting a fraction in the draw length of a graph is a first for me unless I overlooked one somewhere... All the dfc's I have ever seen start on the inch and end on 1 inch increments... That's why I asked you to post a pic of a graph starting at 10.25" and that went over your head also...
Oh well... this happens sometimes... At least I wrestled the answer I was looking for out of you... :laughing: Have a good one...
-
No need to be offensive.
Maybe because this is not my native language, we may talk about different Things.
If someone has a very precise machine to measure the dfc and start at exact 0, you also laughing at him?
I don't really know what just happens.
If someone wants to compare bows dfc s/e efficency Speed and whatever, there will never be THE RIGHT WAY.
The only right way would be to give all the bows to one Independent person, that measures all with the Same methods and the Same Equipment.
-
It’s only rock’n roll, but I like it like it, yes I do. I think I will stick with Blacky’s way, he have tested tons of bows. But I kind of like zero at brace too, would be very simple. Perhaps I should test the same bow two ways and compare.
-
No need to be offensive.
Maybe because this is not my native language, we may talk about different Things.
If someone has a very precise machine to measure the dfc and start at exact 0, you also laughing at him?
I don't really know what just happens.
If someone wants to compare bows dfc s/e efficency Speed and whatever, there will never be THE RIGHT WAY.
The only right way would be to give all the bows to one Independent person, that measures all with the Same methods and the Same Equipment.
Not offensive... just frustrated... It is just a language barrier thing... I agree with the last half of your quote...
-
See what you started, Bue?
LOL
I think everyone should just do it their way and let others do the same.
:campfire:
-
Yeah, I should learn to keep my mouth shut :laughing:
-
Say it isn't so?
LOL
:laughing:
-
What came first.
The chicken
The egg
Or was there a Roster in there
:laughing:
-
Ya Bue, I find just the thought of a draw force curve offensive. But then so would you if your bow's speed was measured in geologic time :)
-
It’s only rock’n roll, but I like it like it, yes I do. I think I will stick with Blacky’s way, he have tested tons of bows. But I kind of like zero at brace too, would be very simple. Perhaps I should test the same bow two ways and compare.
Problem with Blacky's dfc's were that they were doctored and not accurate... It does not matter that much any way when you are looking for performance / arrow speed out of a bow and you are comparing different bow designs unless you have one dfc that is obviously better than another one... I have two recurve models the one with the better looking dfc shoots slower than the other recurve... DFC's are not an absolute but if you do it accurately it can help to give you better understanding whats going on inside your bows limbs to help you make better informed decisions to improve performance when comparing one bow to the next of the same design...
-
What came first.
The chicken
The egg
Or was there a Roster in there.
Maxi there had to be a rooster up in there at some point.
-
This Rooster only had 1 o down there because he was not fully developed :bigsmyl:
-
Just want to add one more point... A dfc has to be accurate to be used correctly... Meaning that it has to be measured accurately to within .010" to .015" and to within mostly within 5/100 of a pound and to 1/10 of a pound at it's worst...
C'mon guys... There is some valuable info here... I don't really see what's so funny... I used DFC's to help me get up to 193 fps... I see this happen all the time on here... As soon as things sway away from what some may think of their way of making a bow, they start making fun of it... This is no theoretical air bow talk... This is real stuff... Not to brag but other than posting that video of Jake Kaminski with a super accurate dfc last week I have the most accurate dfc's out there from what I have seen... I dare anyone to prove me wrong on this... I have learned tons from studying them... It's a very valuable tool... Kinda like a ratchet and torque wrench compared to a open end wrench... Y'all will still get the job done with that open end wrench... But.??
-
I'd like to have one of those....
https://youtu.be/GYn5jYsaXlA
But it's a little bit pricy.
-
Cool device...
-
Cool device! I wonder how big the market has been for those.
-
The vid is somewhat blurry... The lines on the curve appeared to be wonky... Hard to tell with a fuzzy image... I would like to see the numbers to see how accurate they are...
-
C'mon guys... There is some valuable info here... I don't really see what's so funny...
Maybe we thought we could lighten things up in this thread instead of watching you 2 bicker back and forth over 1/4".
Cause if it continues, this thread is going bye byes.
-
First off... I saw no bickering... Second off... I think you are jumping the gun... Third, making light and joking doesn't help matters when two people are serious about something... How about offering an opinion to help settle things?? Aren't you supposed to wait till things get nasty??? I see none of that here... Just a simple miscommunication...
Yah gotta let people work things out Bro... As we did... I have seen things shut down way too early before where people were having a disagreement and was not at all out of hand... Actually I found a couple quite interesting until it was shut down... There is a difference between a heated argument and a discussion over a disagreement... And both can be a part of what a forum is all about... Sometimes you can learn a lot if two people are have a debate over a subject... I say let them go until things do get nasty, and if so tell them to take it else where...
If I can make a suggestion... If any two or more people have a disagreement or to the point that Roy has to get involved... I suggest that you go to private messaging, emails or phone calls and settle your differences of opinion, respectfully and as a gentleman... And learn to agree to disagree if you have to...
-
C'mon guys... There is some valuable info here... I don't really see what's so funny...
Maybe we thought we could lighten things up in this thread instead of watching you 2 bicker back and forth over 1/4".
Cause if it continues, this thread is going bye byes.
To you it was bickering over 1/4"... To me I learned something new... I learned that it is possible to put a 1/4" on a DFC... And I can take that to the bank... You are not gonna see what everyone else sees so let them discuss it...
-
Well good for you.
-
It’s only rock’n roll, but I like it like it, yes I do. I think I will stick with Blacky’s way, he have tested tons of bows. But I kind of like zero at brace too, would be very simple. Perhaps I should test the same bow two ways and compare.
Problem with Blacky's dfc's were that they were doctored and not accurate... It does not matter that much any way when you are looking for performance / arrow speed out of a bow and you are comparing different bow designs unless you have one dfc that is obviously better than another one... I have two recurve models the one with the better looking dfc shoots slower than the other recurve... DFC's are not an absolute but if you do it accurately it can help to give you better understanding whats going on inside your bows limbs to help you make better informed decisions to improve performance when comparing one bow to the next of the same design...
Rich,
Was Blackie's methods/reviews a way to compare bows set up as the bowyer recommended? or tested after being tuned by the tester? I am guessing the two bows of your own that you cite could have been set up differently to give different results?
I hope you take a moment and explain your calculation in more detail. what exactly do you do with your DFC or numbers?
thanks
-
Willi... I just sent you a PM... I'll be up tonight until about 11 pm...