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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: kennym on April 13, 2021, 09:00:09 AM
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I am , can’t help me self ... :biglaugh:
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You go big dog:)
:thumbsup:
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Kenny how long is it.
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Kenny is on the other side now ha ha
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Leave all that hook on there so we can watch you tiller it :bigsmyl:
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Do It...!!
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I would clip those toenails a tad :o
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Kenny have joined the dark side
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00ooooooo.....! You gotta keep us updated on that! :clapper:
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Yoke for Oxen team?
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May need a team to pull it , cut back on stack but felt heavy when I strung it .
1/16 positive but haven’t pulled it yet
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That’s what I’m talking about how long is it nock to nock ,may need a power lam to make that open up the hook
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Those are some big hooks!
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Dats a lot of hook :bigsmyl: what's ur taper and is she pulling straight.
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Moved over to the dark side........what next ? 3 under? Lol
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And what's wrong with 3 under?
:wavey:
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And what's wrong with 3 under?
:wavey:
+1. Those are nearly fighting words. :o
Mark
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Why?
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See......3 under is always loud.....😂😂😂😂
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Not if the bow is tillered for it.
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How do you tiller your bow for 3-under, Roy??
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My tree is setup for either split finger or 3 under tillering, assuming a 3/8th high nocking point on the bow string when shooting.
I tiller for equal limb timing which balances the limbs to the point they are being drawn by the tree rope and later the actual shooters fingers.
The bows shoot quiet as a mouse.
Ask Crooked-stic how his bow shoots.
When a guy orders a bow from a bowyer, if he shoot's 3 under, the bowyer will tiller it for that by tillering the bow to a 1/8th negative tiller or even tiller. And with split finger shooters the bowyer will tiller it for about 1/4 positive tiller.
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Yeah... Ok... I remember you explaining that in the past... Thanks...
I tried negative and positive tiller... Three under is always noisier than split finger... I shoot three under... It's way more accurate for me... Now it's hard to shoot split finger, if I try...
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Yes 3 under is way more accurate for me also.
But to each their own is how I look at things.
The video below is a bow being tillered for split finger, notice the tree pull rope tracking straight down the black line on the wall?
That means the limbs are bending in sync.
Which means both limbs get back to brace after the shot at the same time which equals a smooth quiet shooting bow.
A bow not tillered for equal limb balance will be noisy because you have to keep adjusting the nocking point up or down to get the damn arrows to fly right.
Put one of your bows on the tree and draw a line straight down from the nocking point on the wall then work the bow on the tree. I'll bet money the tree rope drifts off one way or the other.
https://youtu.be/cf7CnshkW7I
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You gonna have plans for the super curve on the website soon?
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Kenny, you have lost your mind! BAHAHAHHAHAHAHA! I told you about those unruly curves.
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I’m not sure if it’s gonna work yet . This one is 60” and third off the form . First one Was 60” and blew up , too much hook and limb twisted and exploded . Second was 58” and worked ok but I wanted the extra hook so this one is 60” with stabilcore under glass on both sides .
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I think it could work at 60" :bigsmyl:
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Is that a forward handle? I wonder if that thing is going to bend the riser. Looks awesome, can't wait to see it in action!
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Do you have a full draw pic Kenny? I’m curious how much the hooks unroll.
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Very interesting Kenny!.I knew you had to weaken eventually.Lol
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It is a forward handle, riser should be good, won’t be much added in grip throat .
Haven’t had it to full draw yet , be a couple days before I get to mess with it again
Bob , been thinking about this and almost nixed it but had to try one more... lol
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If you can get that thing shooting it's going to be pretty nasty. My bet is 210.
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Hang in there buddy, it looks too good to ditch.
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You can do it Kenny, I know you can.
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Done one awhile back. Looks about the same. FH and all 16 in. I think the riser should have been about 20 or 21 in.long to get a lot less working limb. It was not nice after the shot. Not unbearable but not nice. Had no trouble getting it to pull straight. Think it had the Super lam in it also.
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:coffee: :jumper:--------
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Still haven't been back on it, that 4 letter word---work--- gets in the way of all the fun stuff.
BTW, when I strung it it was 1/16" (positive or negative) tiller...
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Kenny, do you have an overlay under that tape?
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I got me a 1/4 round file to get that groove wider.
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That scares the heck out of me seeing that.
Is the limb tip built up in someway on top for added strength?
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I file all my curve string grooves with no problems. I also use 1/4" file. You want the groove to be a little wider than the string. I even round the edges some with sandpaper. I make one static curve with big hooks like this. They are hard to get straight. But sure shoot fast when you get them right.
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:thumbsup:
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Roy I have a brand new Bear curve the belly groove is filed thru the glass. Not something I do tho. And built up tip overlays on the front.
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I haven't put any overlays or underlays on yet, don't wanna add weight to limb. It has .043 green uls on both sides so should be good. Will put tip overlays on as usual but no belly underlays.
It's all fun and games til she blows up... :biglaugh:
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When we gonna see a pic of this thing at full draw???
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Sometime this weekend , bro wants me to go with him to a farm sale to look at a planter in morn and have to help buddy load equipment later. No rest for the weary...
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Tips need to unroll more...
Work in progress ...
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Still 3/4” wide at nock so if I narrow it down to 1/2 it may unroll a bit more
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Yup, prolly will....
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Everything else looks good though. What taper did you use?
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Just call it a static and yer good. :)
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Did you use a tip wedge?
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1.5” limb width
Stack .260
Taper -.001
Tip wedge-yes and power lam (superlam)
Hopin for 45 and its 57 right now but seems to pull kinda easy (new bow syndrome most likely)
Still returning to grooves when you let down and limbs look good for straight
1/16” pos now
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WTH
...
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Last pic was before narrowing tips, not much change. Thinkin about tapering farther from tips...
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Get rid of those wedges on the next one :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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I’d go to a .003 taper too but as much stuff as I’ve screwed up lately I’m not sure I’d listen to my opinion!
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LOL on pictures, I don't even know where to start editing, so I hain't...
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That thing looks vicious. Can't wait to see it put an arrow through your shop!
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LOL
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I would cut off tips a bit.
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Holy Curvaitious... You trying to complete with them extreme hook guys??
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Holy Curvaitious... You trying to complete with them extreme hook guys??
Yep, he's slipped across the Border. :)
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LOL, just wanted to see if I could make one work. I'm gonna put the overlays on and then shoot it and test it.
If it aint 10 fps faster than my D/Rs , gonna burn the form ... :laughing:
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You got to have some you finish recurve blanks.
Someone on FaceB asked where to get T/D R/D plans, I looked on your website and told them Binghams.
But you do have a R/D T/D bow, So your missing sales :banghead: ;)
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Third plan down man!
https://www.kennysarchery.com/longbow-form
Not gonna touch recurve blank bows, too easy to get limb twist . It can happen to guys who build the entire bow , so anybody just starting will be better off with a D/R longbow. That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
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I would keep the tip wedge with that much hook.
Instead of burning that form send it here.
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Got it Kenny :thumbsup:
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Like Bue says, it might be better shorter. After #1 at 60" blew up, I built #2 at 58" , and it worked ok but didn't make the chrono smoke or anything. So for #3 I still used the superlam to get the tip wedge but added a stabilcore under glass both sides. It is quite torsionaly stiff so might be able to do without the tip wedge.
Not sure about more taper, but that might help too.
If I can pull it , it will prob end up my fishin bow. Prob end up 50+ .
A bit of camo paint and good to go...
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Here's my two cents... Looks like you can move your knocks down 1 1/2" to 2"... It's not gonna hardly change your string angle and it may not even change your draw weight... Matter of fact it may help to open up them hooks a little because you are changing the angle from which it pulls on the hooks...
I would map your limb as now at 28" with a tiller stick... Put a piece of tape about 6" in from your fade as a reference point and mark that point on your map to make sure the limb is in the exact same position when you map it again... Then map your limb at 28" and 2" shorter limb... Map your string also to see what it is doing... Post your map... I would be interested to see what happens...
I believe that extra 2" out there right now is absolutely doing nothing but adding weight and slowing things down...
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I’m with ya Rich but she’s 55@28 now and that will add weight. I wanna be able to shoot her. This may be a 56” form...
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Make it 45 pound, then ya might be able to shoot it.
Just sayen ole timer.
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You might be surprised to find out that she only gains a pound or two or be the same weight or possibly even less if them hooks open up...
Forget about the standard rule of gaining 5lb. for every inch you take off... Look at your geometry at 28" draw... That string is almost touching the limbs still... If you take off two inches it looks like you are only gonna be moving that string in a 1/4" from where it is now at 28"... Plus them hooks could possibly open up which could put you back to where you started with string angle... Plus you'll be thinning up those tip areas as you move in more...
Or I could be totally wrong... Just started messing with recurves a year or two ago... But I got a good knack for seeing things and how they work...
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Shredd in my experience your spot on about it not gaining poundage if it’s shortened. Usually if the tips aren’t working there’s not much gain if you cut it down a inch or two
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Cool, I'm gonna finish it at 60" and test shoot it, then pike it...
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As compared to a longbow you weight gain by piking won't be as much. Have ever piked a curve but still thinking you will gain weight.
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If you gain weight could you sand the glass on the back and belly to reduce weight?
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I am not sure and may be I am all wrong, but what if we think the opposite that by cutting off the tips a bit we will loose weight instead of gaining. Then you will not use so much force to straighten out the tips. I don’t really know. :dunno:
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I'm bout ready to head out there wif ah hacksaw and cut the damn tips off:)
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Guys , I have no idea either , but this will be a learning experience.
Rody, you leave my tips alone! :biglaugh:
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Roy you better drive then bet cha can't carry that hack on a plane :bigsmyl:
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LOL
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Does Kenny have tips?
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Ifin he does I sure don't wanna see any pichers of em:)
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...so we can expect ‘50s recurve kits soon? I’d get one! :bigsmyl: :archer2:
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LOL, I keep my tips covered...
No kits yet, I'm not really happy with it just yet... :)
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Got a good seat and patiently waiting for the grand finale...
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Hope ya gots snacks, it’s turkey season ... :laughing:
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No pressure lol. If it does happen though I am sure it will be top notch! Can’t wait to see the final product.
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Yup she’s hopeless, 28” draw ,9.1 gpp — 187 FPS
MY D/R will beat that !
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Well at least ya had fun...
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I'd rather make a longbow anyway. Good news is the string tracks perfectly every shot...so far. :laughing:
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But- always a but - I don't have an arrow anywhere close to stiff nuff for the beast. So that might help...
I had plywood taped to sight window til the arrow wouldn't stay on shelf and was close...
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:thumbsup:
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Leave the recurves to us Amateur's :tongue: :bigsmyl:
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How long is your riser on that one.
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You all kin have all the recurves , they won’t stay in my boot when I’m on stand anyway . Get tired of climbing down to retrieve it... :laughing:
16” riser with a p lam so reckon it would actually be 24”
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Damn that's a big riser...
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So you put your P lam in your boot :laughing:
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Not gonna touch that one:)
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Only the tip of it ... :biglaugh:
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So ya gots little feet...
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That super lam serves a purpose but not like a longer riser. My guess is a actual 22_24 in riser would be better. Think about this with a TD after the wedges how long it is fade to fade. And I think shorter working limbs doing more work better performance.
To a point ya just got to play with it to find out.
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Bout done wif it... :biglaugh:
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PFFT :knothead:
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Longbows rule- recurves drool ... :laughing:
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This is Hopeless :goldtooth:
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So I went ahead and measured the latest curve design I am doing 29 in. Fade to fade and maybe 16 in. Working limb. But I ain't a chrono so I don't know about the fps. Seems quick tho and zero vibes after the shot.
Let it rest Kenny then you get the itch again soon.
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Bout done wif it... :biglaugh:
Just sign it "Hopeless". Build another and call it "Faithless". Terry can auction them off for St Judes.
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Ya otta sell it to a hunten boot store, they could stick it down in one of their boots on a manikin for advertisement.
Look our boots can hold a P lam..... :laughing:
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I have been shooting regularly for the last 2 months or so... My recurves are faster but it seems that my R/D makes better groups... And at 29 " draw I think she is shooting about 194 fps with a 10+ gpp arrow... With such a flat trajectory she shoots close to point on from about 18 to 26 yds... I could not ask for more... I am not sure why they use recurves in Olympic shooting and/or how they pull it off being so accurate... I have always heard that longbows are more forgiving... I wonder if one of these Olympic shooters would be willing to try longbow limbs just to see if they could shoot better groups with them... After all longbows have come a long way... The new R/D bows can now keep up or surpass the performance of some recurves... Most will definitely surpass Kenny's recurve... :laughing:
Joking aside... Sorry Kenny, I feel your pain... I been there many, many times... So if anybody has a right to laugh... I do... :)
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Shreddy, I think a willow branch would beat out this bow... :laughing:
See my post above-- Longbows rule - recurves drool! :biglaugh:
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Don't be hard on yo'self... Rome was not built in a day... ;)
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Shreddy, I think a willow branch would beat out this bow... :laughing:
See my post above-- Longbows rule - recurves drool! :biglaugh:
If I would have gave up after a couple bows I would not be here to say this to you :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: :bigsmyl:
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All them big over sized curved limbs do is slow down the arrow.
Too much dead weight out there not doing a darn thing...
Longbows Rock.......
Anyone can make a recurve...
But r/d longbows take skill and brains....
:wavey: :laughing:
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Not bein hard on me self . And not serious bout nuthin ... :laughing:
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Ok Then... Lets Partay..!!! :biglaugh:
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I really don't think a longbow or a curve groups one better than the other. Accuracy has to do with the operator. Now there may be bows out there that one operates better than the other.
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I think the grip shape is what makes one best for me !
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Yup that says it all, + cut close to center.
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Or a bow that you are just all around comfortable with... I could just be a crappy shooter... A recurve I sold to this guy sent me pics of 3 to 4" groups at 35 yds. with my bow...
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Shreddy didn't happen wifout pichers...
:laughing:
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25 - 30 and 35yd... That's the model that y'all said it had a flat spot in it... :)
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That's very good shooting.
The bow I received from Kenny in this years swap shoots like that, very accurate..
I attribute it mostly to the center shot and grip design. Kenny made the grip like he likes it, " after we talked about it ", and it just so happened to fit me perfect with my high wrist style of shooting.
Not to mention that Kenny's r/d longbows shoot pretty quick...
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Comfortable grip arrow tune and don't be overbowed good form are all things the make the operator control.
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Yupper, Mike and the mental shot sequence aspect....
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Yes sir... I am trying to fine tune right now... I think it is my release that I have to work on... With six arrows at 20 yds., on average I have been grouping 3 arrows in 2 inch groups then about 2 arrows 2 to3" from that group and then the last arrow about four inches out from the tight group... I know it's my release... That's a toughy for me... I know that is plenty good for hunting... They are all in the kill zone... But I am trying to win the 3D competition at the local club next month...
Any tips are welcome...
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Yes sir... I am trying to fine tune right now... I think it is my release that I have to work on... With six arrows at 20 yds., on average I have been grouping 3 arrows in 2 inch groups then about 2 arrows 2 to3" from that group and then the last arrow about four inches out from the tight group... I know it's my release... That's a toughy for me... I know that is plenty good for hunting... They are all in the kill zone... But I am trying to win the 3D competition at the local club next month...
Any tips are welcome...
Be sure that the follow through is not breaking down. FWIW, that’s pretty good shooting as it is. :thumbsup:
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Video yourself shooting, videos don't lie.
You could be pulling your head up at the same time you release.
Kenny, don't even say it.
LOL
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Rich couple inch groups at 25 yds can bang out tons of 10`s ! Thats world class shooing :shaka:
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Rich if your group gets bigger last few arrows you are prob losing concentration .
Try shooting a couple and doing something else for a minute , then a couple more .
You won’t have to shoot 6 at a 3D target unless ya shoot like Roy .... :bigsmyl:
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Rich I've noticed the more i drink the bigger my groups get.
Just sayen....
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:biglaugh:
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What you drinkin --- prolly seein two dem bulls eyes :bigsmyl:
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LOL..............
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If I shoot right in the middle of all three I am sure to get a good score... :)
Thanks for all the tips guys... I cut the tips off of my glove... I think that is helping some... I have a static release... I may try going to more of a follow through release... Yeah Kenny... I find that concentration is the key... You can't just throw arrows at the target and expect them to hit the bulls eye... (which I do sometime) But when I really concentrate my groups really tighten up...
What are your guys feelings on a window that is cut past center for accuracy???
Kenny sorry for hijacking your thread...
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What are your guys feelings on a window that is cut past center for accuracy???
The ideal situation is when the string is aligned dead center with the center of the limbs and looking down the arrow shaft, the string is aligned with the center of the arrow shaft from nock to point.
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Sooo... That sounds like a good thing to me...
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Pass center bows are more accurate. MAYBE
Pass center bows brake . MAYBE
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Pass center bows are more accurate. MAYBE depends on the operator.
Pass center bows brake . MAYBE I beam them and da don't brake (break) :biglaugh:
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:thumbsup:
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You are right Crooked Stick. I was just trying to make him think about it.
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I really don't think a longbow or a curve groups one better than the other.
I think this is correct. On another site there is a member who did piles of chronograph testing using a mechanical rig for consistency in the draw and release. He said he quickly learned to only shoot one arrow at a time and retrieve it from the target or the next would just Robin Hood the first one every time. This was for a pile of different bow designs and he never found one style to be more accurate than the others.
I think it is my release that I have to work on...
If you want accuracy I would suggest looking at what the Olympic recurve shooters do. They are the kings of consistency with a finger release. Of course, shooting 100,000 arrows a year with high quality coaching will improve anyone's performance...
What are your guys feelings on a window that is cut past center for accuracy???
The less the arrow has to paradox the more consistent it is going to be along with being less sensitive to arrow spine. I suspect closer to center shot is also more forgiving of a bad release but I don't know that for sure.
Mark
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I think a bow cut past center may be easier to tune being it will shoot different spines. Well.
So a guy may not have the perfect arrow with the other bows and there fore not as accurate with it