Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: PrimitivePete on March 14, 2021, 10:35:23 AM
-
Team
What broadheads come sharpened that don't need to sharpened before taking to the field. I will admit I have tried everything from files, to sandpaper to jigs and I'm never getting a broadhead "scary" sharp.
I primarily hunt whitetails and black bears so I don't need a magnum sized broadhead but I want to get the sharpest one I can get out of the box.
Thank you
-
Regardless of how sharp they are out of the box, they will dull from being carried around in a quiver, any quiver. So don't give up on learning how to sharpen or at least touch up heads. Most of the heads I use, Zwickey, STOS, Woodsmans, need additional sharpening as they come from the manufacturer. One that doesn't is an Abowyer head. Will need to touch it up over time, however.
-
As mentioned earlier, a sharp broadhead out of the box or home-sharpened will need to be touched up in the field. Unless it was shot, that simply means stropping. I use my pantleg, denim works very well. Just place your broadhead on your pantleg and lightly draw the blade away from the cutting edge several times. Flip the blade and repeat. It'll take a sharp blade to scary sharp!
-
If you want screw in broadheads, check out Magnus Stingers. They’re the sharpest out of the package that I’ve ever seen...
-
A tuffhead single bevel comes sharp as a razor. You will still need to touch it up before and after hunts. Usually a few passes on fine grit sandpaper and then a few passes on a leather strop will give you an incredibly sharp edge.
Single bevels can be forgiving to learn on. Sharpening is just something you have to learn to do to be an ethical hunter. You want that animal to pass on peacefully and a razor sharp broadhead will do that. A dull head will cause a bad wound and the animal can run for miles on adrenaline and die a slow painful death. Take the time and learn for the animals sake.
Just my opinion
-
I’ll just never get it. There’s no magic in sharpening. It’s a skill you need to learn. What about your knives? Do you just buy a new one each time? Don’t give up on the skill. It’s not hard and you’re not incapable.
Magnus stinger is very sharp out of the package. They offer resharpening as well. I use strictly a diamond stone myself. Nothing fancy. One key imo is a strop after to remove any burrs. A boot, piece of wood, anything handy works
-
A Magnus Stinger comes razorsharp right out of the package. An investment in the roller KME (broadhead sharpener) will bring it back to an edge that Gillette can't rival. It's the most fool proof system I know for two blade Stingers. It's so simple a caveman could do it.....
-
Team
What broadheads come sharpened that don't need to sharpened before taking to the field. I will admit I have tried everything from files, to sandpaper to jigs and I'm never getting a broadhead "scary" sharp.
I primarily hunt whitetails and black bears so I don't need a magnum sized broadhead but I want to get the sharpest one I can get out of the box.
Thank you
The sharpest heads out of the box I've ever shot were Grizzlystik heads. Every other head I've shot ive felt the need to retouch before hunting with.
There are some heads that come dull as a butter knife I wouldn't ever buy again.
-
Ok before this gets out of hand here and I can taste the vinegar in some of the responses, what I was looking for is for suggestions regarding broadheads that come pre-sharpened, that's all. I would prefer helpful responses and not judgement based responses. Many of you may be pros, but for some of us we are still learning.
-
Pete;
Greetings and Salutations from S.E. Arizona.
For what it's worth; Long long ago in a land far away (Southern Calif.) Dick Garver Sr. taught me to sharpen broadheads the way Howard Hill taught him. Basically it's filing the edge 'sharp enough' and then dragging the edge of the file across the edge of the broadhead, rear to front raising a hellish burr.
I know that the 'scary sharp' mode is currently in favor over the 'burr sharp' method but it worked for Mister Hill, it works for me and it might work for you.
-
As stringwacker said--- stingers are pretty sharp out of package. The kme is a great sharpener and Ron at kme will literally stay on the phone with you until you have the hair popping off your arm. I find it very easy to use on all two blade heads ( except concave). I think you'll find it a good investment. The key to sharpening is to do most of your work on a coarse stone until you raise a burr along the entire length of the edge. Best of luck.
-
Ok before this gets out of hand here and I can taste the vinegar in some of the responses, what I was looking for is for suggestions regarding broadheads that come pre-sharpened, that's all. I would prefer helpful responses and not judgement based responses. Many of you may be pros, but for some of us we are still learning.
Brother I can’t see anyone being negative towards you. Everyone is giving advice on broadheads. You say you’re learning. You’re getting ideas about that too. Don’t be offended. Don’t give up
-
I have found Silver Flame heads to be extremely sharp out of the package.
-
Eclipse Werewolfs....great customer service also!
-
Well Pete getting them sharp right out of the package is great but you'll have to practice with them and then they will be dull and need sharpening, then what. If there not to dull and depending on the head a Rada wheel might help getting them sharp again simple and easy it's what I do but often it takes a little more than that. Good luck and I hope you find a solution that works for you, the secret is to get them really sharp and it's not hard just takes a little work.
-
Like the Man said - not looking for sharpening advice just some suggestions on heads ready to hunting when they arrive.
Two options:
1. Magnus Stingers - More budget friendly
2. Abowyer - They advertise as "hunt ready" out of the package and they are. More expensive though.
Good Luck!
-
Actually, the two you are going to primarily hunt, deer and black bears, are two species you can hunt with a magnum sized head. Both are like shooting a grocery bag full of shaving cream, with a few tinker toys inside, and one ball joint.... just stay away from the ball joint, like any other big game animal you hunt.
-
Hey meat how do you really know there ready to hunt unless you practice with them, especially if you never shot them before, just sayin.
-
PP,You might want to try a replaceable blade broadhead if you dont want to shrapen them.The slick Trick viper's come sharp and they are a cut on contact and the magnus come sharp also.I find keeping the broadheads sharp and ready part of the experience and rewarding.Just my .02 worth.good luck...
-
I have never pre shot every head that I've hunted with. Hardly ever. I know they work because I have shot them previously-previously at bales for flight.... so no reason to shoot every singe head I buy from then on. Been mostly shooting Zwickeys since the 80s. I just sharpen them, mount em, and hunt. Same with WWs, VPAs, Ace, Silver flames, Abowyers and any other head I've killed animals with.
Once they have been determined to fly.... the rest just hunt from then on.
-
A few years ago, I was in a sport shop where the owner was a traditional archer and he showed me some heads that were a Delta shape with two folding wings at the back edge.
All blades were easily replaced and the wings were sharp on the back edge.
The design was incase you didn't get a passthrough, the head would cut if it was pulled out.
Thought being more chance for more damage on the way out.
I did think they would be a good head for someone who has trouble sharpening but I wasn't interested.
I just tried to find them online but I didn't see them.
I have no idea what brand they are but maybe someone on here will have an idea what they are.
I do remember they were not designed for wheel bows and if I remember, they were 125gr.
-
Yeah a spin test of the remaining heads is adequate after you've determined they fly well for your set up.
German Jager heads come reasonably sharp out of the package. Not scary sharp but will take hair off your arm. Check them out at 3Rivers.
-
Although they are not very sharp from the package, the easiest head I have ever sharpened are the snuffers. And I am a turd at sharpening. The hardest part is just finding these heads because unfortunately they're no longer made.
A close second are the VPA 3 blades. They're pretty sharp right from the package.
-
May I recommend Magnus Stingers along with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. The double-bevel blade of the Stinger works very well with the 20/40 degree angle of the Sharpmaker. While I use the KME knife sharpener for my single bevels, for double bevels, the Sharpmaker works great and they will get silly-sharp. BTW, shop around and you can find the Sharpmaker for less than Spyderco's MSRP.
-
thank you all for the great advice, I've ordered new tools to work with and will use your advice to the fullest
-
thank you all for the great advice, I've ordered new tools to work with and will use your advice to the fullest
Way to be, good man. I have faith in you, it just takes some practice. In no time at all you’ll be sharpening with the best of us. Its addictive too, once I learned I was sharpening everything I could from axes to fillet knives.
Be safe and have fun
-
Regardless of how sharp they are out of the box, they will dull from being carried around in a quiver, any quiver. So don't give up on learning how to sharpen or at least touch up heads. Most of the heads I use, Zwickey, STOS, Woodsmans, need additional sharpening as they come from the manufacturer. One that doesn't is an Abowyer head. Will need to touch it up over time, however.
Agree!
-
Thank you all for the helpful suggestions, with a new attitude and good file, hone and leather pad I can shave !!!
-
I tried Cutthroats last year and really like them. They will sharpen a pack of 3 for $5 and they are very sharp. Good luck!!
-
I use a sharping steel from my wifes knife set for the kitchen. Works for two blade broadheads.
-
Pete, It sounds like you are where I was a year ago. I had just ordered a KME sharpening system and still couldn't get broadheads out of the package sharp with it. I learned to use my KME broadhead holder and run the broadhead across a mill bastard file first, then to move over to the stones that came with the system. I can get any broadhead shaving sharp now in just a few minutes. I shot stingers in the past, they come razor sharp out of the package. For all of the dull stingers I have that weren't re-sharpened due to a lack of know how and confidence, I could have purchased a three or four KME systems. I would be happy to show you via video what I do now that works for me.
-
Abowyer single bevel heads come hunting sharp. Seriously, you need to learn to sharpen broadheads. All broadheads will gradually dull just being exposed to the weather and from carrying in a quiver. Have a friend show you.
-
I just watched the best video I ever saw on broadhead sharpening/testing. Check out "Broadhead Sharpening Shootout" by Innovative Outdoorsman on Youtube.
-
I think your best bet is to go with a Magnus Stinger or Buzzcut head and buy some replacement blades when you buy them. But to the sharpening challenged comment, it sure helps to buy heads made from quality high carbon steel if you want to get them really sharp on your own. And most of the time when I see people fail getting heads sharp with like a kme etc, they are pushing too hard, the stone is supposed to do the work, not you!
-
Hey listen, I am not trying to be on A hole but you really need to learn how to sharpen.
-
No offense taken friend but if you read the thread, I've learned
ty
-
Thank you all for the helpful suggestions, with a new attitude and good file, hone and leather pad I can shave !!!
Good on you. :thumbsup:
A lesson for all, too. :readit:
Knowing how to well sharpen any specific broadhead type is a prerequisite for going afield in ethical pursuit of game. :campfire: