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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: PigStikker on December 31, 2006, 12:56:00 PM

Title: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: PigStikker on December 31, 2006, 12:56:00 PM
Just wondering, for those of you who use or have used screw-in adapters with glue-on broadheads, how do you align your heads with the adapters before your glue dries?  Also, what kind of glue do you use?  

Matt
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: PigStikker on January 01, 2007, 01:31:00 AM
Ok, let me ask this then....how do you properly use a Dixon's Broadhead Aligner?  

Matt
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: Squirrel Bait on January 01, 2007, 03:22:00 AM
Matt, just screw your adapter in your arrow, glue on your head just as it was a swaged or tapered wood shaft. I use Fer-l-tite hot melt.
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: Goose on January 01, 2007, 07:22:00 AM
I made this jig a couple of years ago and it works fine.  You can get the alignment within a few thousands of an inch.  Also, I use Devcon 2-Ton epoxy, it has a 30 minute working time and two hours to set up.  You can then remove the heads if needed with a tourch without using too much heat.
 (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v74/ClearFork/1514dfb8.jpg)
Good luck.
Goose
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: barebow on January 01, 2007, 09:41:00 AM
Goose, that's a real nice looking alignment jig you made. Have you considered selling them? If so, for how much? Also, where do they sell the Devcon 2-Ton epoxy? Thanks.
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: Goose on January 01, 2007, 11:59:00 PM
barebow,
Nope, I don't sell them.  It's just something I knocked out in my basement.  I had a Dixon at one time and it just did not fill the bill.  Maybe some day I may make a few to sell.
The Devcon can be bought at most any large hardware store.  At one time I believe Lowe's sold it, but the last time I was there it had been replaced with another brand.
Good luck.
Goose
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: PigStikker on January 02, 2007, 08:28:00 AM
Goose,
where did you get the gauge on your alignment jig?  I am thinking about making a jig, though my carpentry skills leave a lot to be desired.   :)

Matt
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: Goose on January 02, 2007, 09:02:00 AM
Matt,
Got it at Harbor Freight.  When they are on sale thay are something like $7.  Regular price is about $15, I think.

The tough part is finding a bearing for the broadhead to fit in.  About 25 miles NE of here we have a company called Bearing Distributors Inc.(BDI). They have about any kind of bearing you could want so I kind of lucked out there.  You wouldn't have to use a bearing, but I kind of liked the way the shaft turns when a bearing is used. You could probably use a piece of metal with a dent or dimple drilled in it.
Good luck.
Goose
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: Whip on January 02, 2007, 09:55:00 AM
In the most recent TBM "Tips from an oldtimer" column there was an interesting suggestion.  If your broadhead doesn't line up when first installed, heat it up (assuming you used hotmelt) and spin 180 degrees.  He claims 90% will line up perfectly, but can't explain why.  Who cares, if it works!  I'm going to try it anyway.

Goose, I really like that alignment jig.  I'm going to have to make one of those!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: TaterHill Archer on January 02, 2007, 11:08:00 PM
Goose,
would you mind listing some specs of your aligner?
Title: Re: Aligning glue-on broadheads w/adapters
Post by: Goose on January 03, 2007, 09:16:00 AM
Well, it’s nothing fancy.  It measures 12 inches long and 5 ½ inches wide.  The end with the two rollers is 2 ¾ inched from the bottom, and the other end is 3 ¼ inches.  The one pictured uses two screen door rollers on the left and has a small bearing for the point of the broadhead to fit in.  I made a second one of these and used two bearings on the left for the shaft to rotate on.  These bearings are a little larger than the one for the broadhead, I believe 5/8 inch O.D.  The bearing for the broadhead measures about 3/8 inch OD and 1/8 inch I.D.  The wood is one inch red oak.
I found the most difficult part was finding the bearings, and they were not real cheap.  I think I paid almost $4 for each of them, but the screen door rollers probably work just as well for the left end.  Obviously you can make the jig with the rollers at the other end, I’m left handed and this worked for me.
The dial indicator came from Harbor Freight, item #33675-2VGA.  They sell for $15.99, but you can often get them on sale for something like $7.00.  You can also find dial indicators on eBay.  The dial has a molded loop on the underside of the case which makes it easy to mount to a small block of wood on the jig base.
To use the jig, just position the arrow as shown in the post above and slowly rotate with your fingers.  I usually try to use uniform pressure on the shaft, over the two rollers.   Then sit back and watch the needle in the dial indicator spin!  With a little work, I can usually get my broadheads true to .003, which I consider fantastic.  You will soon find some broadheads supplied with screw-in inserts are not any where close to that.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Goose