Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Pat B on January 24, 2021, 02:01:53 PM
-
Re: 2020---->What did ya do today?
« Reply #1184 on: December 29, 2020, 01:06:29 PM »
QuoteModifyRemove
I started removing the bark and sapwood off of a nice, 2 year old osage stave, my least favorite part of wood bow building. I'm planning on an ALB but will decide that once I get a good back ring exposed. This will be my first build in at least a year so y'all pray for me. :bigsmyl:
Modify message
I finally got some of this done today since the new bandsaw blades came in. I will post pics later. I'm going to document the whole process. :thumbsup:
-
Thanks for showing us as you go. You have always done a good job at describing as you work. Really looking forward to this.
Bill
-
Looking forward to this, Pat.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
I will post pics later. I'm going to document the whole process. :thumbsup:
Cool, it is always great to see a build along and learn new things.
Mark
-
Here are a few pics and what I'm doing and will be doing...
(https://i.imgur.com/3rOVSZm.jpg?1)
This is the stave cut down to 2" wide. I removed the bark and sapwood.
(https://i.imgur.com/wCccjmL.jpg?1)
one end grain
(https://i.imgur.com/tYrHHUQ.jpg)
the other end grain
(https://i.imgur.com/0g2ZGqC.jpg)
this is what I use to mark out the center line. It works great especially for irregular staves. First I cock it one direction and draw the line...
(https://i.imgur.com/wFm4TB7.jpg)
then I cock it the other direction and draw the line. Where the 2 lines split I draw a line between them.
-
this is similar to a tillering Gizmo and can be used as one by screwing the pencil from the other side. When using it as a centering tool I cock it so each one of the dowels are touching the side of the stave while drawing the line...
(https://i.imgur.com/F5jbMts.jpg)
this shows the center line and where it doubles...
(https://i.imgur.com/arTLZEt.jpg?1)
here I've marked out the center of the stave from end to end and marked out my 4" handle. I will have 4" fades on this bow also and you can see those lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hxajyt0.jpg?1)
this is the handle and fade layout on one side of the stave. the back of the stave is at the top...
(https://i.imgur.com/fPZ5vOi.jpg)
and finally the stave cut out with 3/4" thick limbs. I still have to find a good back ring so I left it extra thick.
(https://i.imgur.com/aJRGZix.jpg)
-
You will notice that there is some propeller twist in this stave. I'll try to build the bow with little of no heat correction but we'll just have to see when the time comes. Also the growth rings are pretty thin. There is one fairly good ring a few rings down that I may try to get to but again, we'll see. :thumbsup:
-
Nice Pat
Watching :thumbsup: :jumper:
-
Very informative, Pat.
I can use this info on the Osage stave Maxi gave me...
-
Pat,
Looking good!
-
First time seeing the centering tool. Very slick. :)
-
The centering tool was my first attempt at a tillering Gizmo when Eric first came out with it years ago. Then I had the thought about making a centering tool. I can remove the pencil, flip the block over, reinstall the pencil and use it as a Gizmo. My only change for the centering tool would be to make it longer so it would accept a larger stave. I don't remember where I got the idea for the centering tool.
-
Pat, your centering tool.
Is it used because when a stave is split out of a log, the stave usually splits following the grain of the wood?
So your tool pretty much will follow the grain of the stave?
Or is it used to follow the center of a snaky stave?
-
Both, Roy. With a straight, straight grained stave you can pull a chalk line. With irregular staves, snaky or otherwise irregular you have to visually follow the grain. This tool helps follow that grain. That's why you see the double lines because it is following irregular grain. This isn't an exact method but we aren't building Swiss watches but building a simple machine to achieve a simple task.
-
Awesome! Thanks for bringing us along :thumbsup:
-
Ok I kind of thought so.
Thanks..
-
Up til now I have removed the bark and sapwood, cut the stave to 2" it's full length, marked off the handle, riser and now I've started to chase a ring in earnest. Being that this stave has fairly thin rings I have to be careful. I draw a circle around each knot so I can keep away from them for now...
(https://i.imgur.com/xlhUDEM.jpg)
next I trace around my lowest back ring. This, I hope will be my back ring but it's too early to tell with thin rings.
(https://i.imgur.com/4XZhr6k.jpg)
you can see how confusing it could be without marking each ring.
(https://i.imgur.com/gdWY1x7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RJtcYlZ.jpg)
To be able to see these thin rings well I view the stave from one end with the other end pointing to natural light. Even with our overcast rainy day outside natural light shows up the rings better than the flourescent and LED lighting in my shop.
The tools I'm using today are primarily a goose neck scraper, a flat scraper and occasionally a draw knife. Any time I expose the next ring I mark it. The lowest ring, when all is done will be my back ring. This is where patience and lots of pencil marks comes in handy.
-
:thumbsup:
-
Still chasing that illusive back ring. As I go down a ring the one below is more concave making it a slow process. You might be able to see the concavity in this pic. I put the piece of wood across the limb to highlight it.
I started this morning at about 10 and worked until noon then back at it at 1 to 2:30, all the while chasing that good ring. I'll be back at it again soon. Still another couple of hours to go. Generally it doesn't take this ling but with the thin rings, knots(mostly pins) and the concave back the gooseneck has been my primary tool. Anyway, that's selfbow building. :thumbsup: More fun than a stick in the eye. :laughing:
-
I hate it when it's like that :banghead:
-
Yeah, Mark. My hands hate it too. :thumbsup:
-
Still chasing that illusive back ring. As I go down a ring the one below is more concave making it a slow process. You might be able to see the concavity in this pic. I put the piece of wood across the limb to highlight it.
how long is that area Pat?
-
Much of one limb, Mark.
-
Pat,
My experience with a dip on the back (concave), is they are a pain to chase the growth ring, more difficult to tiller, shoot a little faster than bows with a convex or flat back, and tend to be a little less durable. Like your bow in the picture, I try to keep the bottom of the dip running down the center of the limb.
-
Thanks, Walt. Don't remember working whit a concave back. I agree, so far the concave back has been a pain, literally to work on and on my hands. I'm sure the tillering will be too.
-
Looks good, Pat. Jawge
-
Pat do you have one of those curved scrapers?
-
Thanks George.
Yes Roy, the gooseneck scraper is about all I used yesterday. It's hard to get and keep it sharp though. With my flat scraper I clamp it in the vice and remove the bur with a flat bastard file then flatten the edge with the file and roll both edges of that with a burnisher. With the gooseneck I have to use my disc/belt sander. I lay it flat on the disc sander table and grind the edge flat. This makes the edges sharp but doesn't give it the hook. The sharp edges seem to dull fairly quickly.
My next step is to get the other limb, the one with all the pins down to one ring. Unfortunately that will be below the other clean limb so I may have to go down another ring on it again. :knothead:
-
If your handle is going to be nonbending you can change growth rings. That might keep you from having to chase another ring on ine limb. I have stepped down three rings in the handle.
-
I thought about that, Walt and that might be the way I go. I'm anxious to move on to the next step.
I think I'll back this bow with rawhide. With the thin rings and all the knots I think it would be a smart thing to do plus it gives me a good pallet for some decorations.
-
Get a different stave out of your stash :laughing: :thumbsup: :tongue:
-
Pat go ahead and smack Maxi-Boy...
:knothead: :laughing:
-
Sometimes I chase one and put it back for another day and work on a different one :goldtooth:
-
Too far across this stream to change horses now, Mark. :readit:
-
:tongue:
-
Well, I finally got the back chased. Another hour and a half got it done. Turns out that most of the back is concave so me and the gooseneck scraper are intimately involved. :saywhat: I'll be heading back down to the shop after lunch to get the back profile laid out and cut out. then the fun begins. I'll have more pics later today. :thumbsup:
-
Hurry up and eat:)
-
:thumbsup: :bigsmyl:
Your too far across this stream to go eat :laughing:
-
I got the back cleaned but one back ring overlaps the other at the center of the handle. Shouldn't be a problem on a stiff handle(thanks for the info Walt)bow. Almost the entire back is concave. Between that and all the pin knots it took me about 6 hrs to get to where I quit today, mostly with the gooseneck scraper.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hxajyt0.jpg?1)
I marked the center line again on the 2" wide stave then marked the 4" handle and 4" fades then I draw a line across the limbs every 6" from the fade to the tips. This helps me lay out the bow. One side of the handle area had a bad tear out. I decided to make the bow 1 5/8" wide and this will eliminate the tearout. The line on the right is at 1 5/8" and the right side of the limb.
(https://i.imgur.com/PMZiY4R.jpg?1)
Once the width is reduced I mark the side of the stave with the handle, fades and 3/4" thick limbs.
(https://i.imgur.com/ldbMABY.jpg?1)
and from there I begin the rough thinning of the limbs by sawing off facets on the belly from the 3/4" line towards the center of the belly.
(https://i.imgur.com/vgyu4Tz.jpg?1)
then remove the peak along the center of the belly.
(https://i.imgur.com/xaeCOq5.jpg?1)
Besides the bandsaw these are the tools I've used so far
(https://i.imgur.com/hE13bcJ.jpg)
and these are the tools I'll use for shaping and tillering
(https://i.imgur.com/Yd2sfLE.jpg)
-
Looking nice Pat.
-
Looking good Pat. That concave thing is a pain. When I make Yew bows sometimes a section of the back is concave and the rest is convex. The concave section seem to be stiffer and have to be taken into consideration. I guess it is the same if you fold a strip of paper and hold it out it will be stiffer with concave side up. But if anyone can do it you are the man.
-
Yeah, Bue, I haven't worked many with concave backs over the years so I guess we'll just have to see how it goes. Ten years ago I wouldn't have given it much thought but I haven't built many selfbows in the last few years so it's almost like starting over.
-
Very nice. I've never liked chasing rings. :) Jawge
-
George, I always thought that removing dried sapwood was a pain. :dunno: I might be rethinking that. :thumbsup:
-
Very nice. I've never liked chasing rings. :) Jawge
sometimes it's easy and some times a pain :thumbsup:
-
I did a little more reduction this morning. My basement shop is 45 deg. this morning and standing on the concrete floor really gets the cold in my old bones.
Anyway...My initial reduction was to make the limbs 3/4" thick. After I get it down to that point I floor tiller check to see if there is any bend. At this point there rarely is but I always check just in case. Next I thin the limbs to 5/8". To get my line down the side of the limb I first mark 5/8" at a few points down each side of each limb then draw a line. I use my fingers and a pencil to do this...
(https://i.imgur.com/c4czWqT.jpg)
...on all 4 sides. you can see the 3/4" line and the 5/8" line here...
(https://i.imgur.com/GPLjDpd.jpg)
making sure I follow the ups and downs of the back with the pencil line...
(https://i.imgur.com/K8ZuYET.jpg)
then I start reducing the thickness with a farriers rasp using the faceted method, first down one side of the limb, then the other side. not sure if you can see these facets in the pic but there is a peak down the center...
(https://i.imgur.com/uiP08AR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G9ooOhA.jpg)
then I reduce that peak with the farriers and clean up the tool marks with a scraper and center the crown of the belly down the center of the limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/FiRryoE.jpg)
to be continued...
-
Those are thin rings ;)
-
You was a busy guy today, Pat.
Looks nice.
-
Yes they are Mark. Although if they were thicker I'd still be scraping on the back. :o
Roy, just busy enough. :thumbsup:
-
Pat, I know what you mean about the cold creeping up into your feet from the floor. I have the same problem in my shop. It sure limits the amount of time that I can stay out there in winter.
I use a foam mat to stand on. The type that dovetails together in two foot squares. It’s about 1/2” thick and it sure helps.
Dave.
-
Thanks for the tip, Dave. Even in the summer it would cushion the concrete floor and my 70 year old legs and feet would appreciate that. :thumbsup:
BTW, my cold ain't Canada cold but it is still cold to me. :wavey:
-
60* the other day, 30* today :tongue:
-
That's how we've been Mark. Up and down and by next weekend way down. At least we aren't in the northeast. :laughing:
-
:thumbsup:
-
Today I drew a line along the edges at 1/2" and removed wood to that line with a crowned belly. Checking floor tiller the limbs are bending slightly.
(https://i.imgur.com/NRlVWWz.jpg)
I like to check the thickness along and across the limbs using my hand as a thickness gauge. Amazing how small a difference in thickness you can feel like this...
(https://i.imgur.com/ERLKUEu.jpg)
being that the limbs are getting thin but still barely bending at floor tiller tells me it time to narrow the limbs some. But first I move from the bench vise to the Stave Master, the best bow building tool I ever bought. This was made by a bowyer named Keenan Howard of Bend Oregon. Keenan is a fabulous selfbow builder with a bad back so he came up with this bow bench. I got this bow bench without a seat and bought a plastic boat seat for it. The seat swivel comes with the bow bench...
(https://i.imgur.com/ne8Jz91.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2kzdwUM.jpg)
The front portion with the bow holder swivels allowing easy access to the stave...
(https://i.imgur.com/uiU1SnJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4oRaBAG.jpg)
This is what would be called the knucklehead on a standard bow bench. The square tube "table" that the stave rests on slides forward to back so you can adjust it as you work out towards the end of the limb.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZJ96x4p.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ejp2oDI.jpg)
-
That's looking nice Pat.
I got a yew stave off Keenan years ago.
I chat with him on Facebook now and then.
-
That Stave Master looks great, nice progress.
-
It's been a few years since I've talked to Keenan. I don't do facebook. I don't even know it he is still making the Stave Master.
Thanks Bue. The Stave Master is the cat's meow for sure. Pretty simple but very effective.
-
Well, I just checked and he does have a website. stavemaster.com also has his telephone number. He makes it two sizes, for folks under 5'8" tall and those over 5"8".
-
Keenan is way under 5'8" tall. I'm 5'8" and he has to look up to me. :goldtooth: My stave Master fits me well but at the time I bought it he only had one model.
Keenan is a true artist in whatever he does from his magnificent selfbows of all sorts of wood to his metal fabrication and not just the Stave Master. He did a custom build for a guy that collected model trains and built a steel tressel to go around his fireplace near the ceiling, riveted together and to scale. He is just one of those guys that can do anything and very well.
-
I did a little more this morning. I reduced the limb thickness to 7/16" thick. It's was still too stiff and hardly bending at 1 1/2" wide so I narrowed it to 1 3/8" wide. You can see the pencil lines here..
(https://i.imgur.com/VZFWeLz.jpg)
I made sure to mark the knots near the edge so I could allow some extra width at those knots
(https://i.imgur.com/f4KOkIy.jpg)
Another thing I thought I would add that is important when using a scraper. If you keep the scraper perpendicular across the stave while scraping it will create undulations on the surface that look like waves.
(https://i.imgur.com/uWGypm2.jpg)
so I alternate the scraper by slanting it to the left then to the right along with perpendicular
(https://i.imgur.com/MZOQBjp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J05xJxm.jpg)
By doing this you take down the crest of these waves keeping the belly relatively flat, without the waves.
I had forgotten about these that my daughter gave me a few years ago for Christmas. She and I have a tradition of watching zombie(Walking Dead, Fear of Walking Dead) shows on TV when she comes to visit. I keep them attached to my bowyers bench for safe keeping...
(https://i.imgur.com/uxhyCdY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tqDuF8X.jpg)
-
Glad to see you back at it Pat! You build excellent bows! I'll be following! I have built a few self bows, mostly glass bows but the self bow bug has bit me hard, so I'm hoping to learn a lot from your build!
-
I hope it is helpful for you Kenneth. Looking forward to seeing your selfbow build.
-
I learnt one thing from Pat.
Do not try making a self bow with a stave with a concave back:)
-
Thanks for bringing that up Roy. Now I have an excuse if something goes wrong. :goldtooth: :thumbsup:
-
Thats an interesting looking clamping dohicky you got there Pat
How do you apply pressure with it?
-
His feet.
-
Flem, there is a foot pedal that puts pressure on the stave with the boat trailer roller. Look on the previous page for some good pics of the Stave Master.
-
Thats pretty slick :thumbsup: Looks a lot more comfortable than a wooden shaving horse.
-
Flem that's why old timers use one.
Just sayen:)
:wavey: Pat
-
As you know, Roy, I are old. :readit:
-
Heck I have 2 years on you:)
-
Well, you can keep um. I'll take mine as they come. :thumbsup:
-
Here are a few more things I thought I'd mention. While reducing the belly and using my hands as thickness gauge I mark any area that is too thick with a squiggly line so I know just where to scrape to reduce the thickness. mYou'll see the squiggly line along the top edge.
(https://i.imgur.com/6ro764M.jpg)
and as I'm floortillering I study the bend. In this case the bend seem to be mostly mid limb so I draw a line across the limb and put an "X" on the side I don't want to scrape as you see in this pic
(https://i.imgur.com/tl2kOxd.jpg)
that's it for now. more to come.
-
I initially thought that I would not make heat corrections but changed my mind. I got out one of my reflex forms and centered the stave on the form and put 2 clamps at the handle
(https://i.imgur.com/4duMLqt.jpg)
you can see here how far the limb is out of whack
(https://i.imgur.com/9rr6B93.jpg)
so, like I always do before making heat corrections I coated the belly with cooking oil
(https://i.imgur.com/qXo2zoF.jpg)
I place this little piece of wood between the form and limb as a fulcrum for the first bend
(https://i.imgur.com/QgvMtKO.jpg)
then started heating and clamping. The wood clamp brings the limb back over to the form around the fulcrum I added before
(https://i.imgur.com/XlV8VCZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/topH3yK.jpg)
and the "C" clamps bring the limb to the form and the clamp at the end brings the crooked tip to the form.
(https://i.imgur.com/uBmChT9.jpg)
Once the limb is heated and clamped I go over the limb again from the fade to the tip with the heat gun getting it too hot to touch then let it stay in the form until next session(at least overnight.
-
Nice job Pat.
It's amazing how nice osage bends with heat.
-
Yeah, Roy, with heat it's like budda. :saywhat: We'll see how well it takes after it comes off the form. This is only the first heating.
-
Yup sometimes it could take 2 or 3 heating's.
-
Some times more.
-
:thumbsup:
-
I got the other limb heated and clamped to the form this morning. I'll post pics a little later.
-
Does the heat allow permanent deformation, or is some lost over time?
-
It should be permanent but sometimes you have to reheat to get it to do so. As cold as my basement is(lower 40s) I may not have gotten it as hot as it should be. That why I'll double check and repeat if needed. Also I think that by using oil when heating not only helps to prevent scorching but I believe it helps to distribute the heat more evenly and help hold the heat longer allowing it to go deeper. No scientific proof of this but in my experience it does these things.
I have put recurves in limbs with dry heat, just like this and they stayed permanently fixed. Heating and bending wood has been around as long as people have used wood for tools. Even Neanderthal used this method to straighten out their throwing and lunging spears they used to hunt the megafauna of their times.
-
I flipped the stave on the form to work the other limb. Not much to do with this limb but add some reflex...
(https://i.imgur.com/QOvxnAZ.jpg)
...and remove a little tip twist...
(https://i.imgur.com/5tuPo0S.jpg?1)
I started by oiling and heating the limb. I hold the heat gun about 1" above the belly and move it back and forth over about a 6" area until the wood is too hot to touch then add a clamp and move on to the next 6". The dark spot on the limb is a shadow. I don't like to scorch the limb as I make adjustments. After the limbs are straight and at a later date I will go back with the heat gun, without oil and heat treat(temper) the belly, scorching it as I go.
(https://i.imgur.com/zi2eTOm.jpg)
When it's too hot to touch I clamp that area and move on to the next 6" and on out the limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/V0bEYHc.jpg)
next it's time to remove the twist from the tip. I place a wood pad under the down side or the twist and clamp the other side to twist the tip the opposite direction while I'm heating. You can see the pad under the limb edge just beyond the clamp...
(https://i.imgur.com/sXlzxQ0.jpg?1)
more to come...
-
This is going to be a nice How To Pat :jumper:
-
Thanks Mark. I've done a few of these over the years but photobucket are most of them. :banghead:
-
Looking good Pat.
-
I'm starting to think twice about all the twisted wood I have in my shop. Might have to get out the heat gun!
-
Does the oil you use to help bend the limbs affect the finishing later?
Dave.
-
I've used cooking oil too on osage and buy the time you get the bow ready for finish you can't tell the oil was on there, Osage is a oily wood anyway but doesn't seem to matter. :thumbsup:
-
Thanks. Just something that I wondered about.
Dave.
-
What Mad Max said. I'll be putting a rawhide backing on the bow with hide glue so I'll degrease before I do that. A good scrub with Dawn and warm water and rinse with boiling water. That will remove the natural wood oil, fingerprints and any cooking oil that might still remain.
-
Did a little more today. I took the stave off the form after working the second limb. One limb took less reflex than the other. I won't worry about that now but will take care of it later...
(https://i.imgur.com/4kNjtTE.jpg)
...but I did get the twist out of the limb tip...
(https://i.imgur.com/ULQDmWP.jpg)
I also developed the back profile starting out at 1 1/2" at the fades and out 4" before tapering to 1" about 7" from the tips then tapering to 3/4" for now.
(https://i.imgur.com/vqN5yPz.jpg)
Now it is time to put in temporary string nocks. I put a pencil line on the side of the tip at 3/4" at the back and 1" at the belly...
(https://i.imgur.com/NU8cFpy.jpg)
and cut the groove with a chainsaw file to about half the diameter of the file...
(https://i.imgur.com/pBJo0IP.jpg?1)
...making sure I go on to the belly side to guide the string...
(https://i.imgur.com/u4ELvOI.jpg?1)
...I put a string on just a bit longer than the bow for a tiller string and put the stave on the tiller tree...
(https://i.imgur.com/iciyx4f.jpg)
and after a little short exercising I do a pull to check the initial tiller...
(https://i.imgur.com/GGG8xmH.jpg)
more to come...
-
I call that a long string Pat :thumbsup:, I see some people with really long strings :nono:
-
Mark, that string was hanging on the pegboard above the bench. Loop on the top limb, bowyers knot on the bottom so I can adjust the length. That's how I make all my strings. As soon as I can I will go to low brace of 3" to 4". From there it should be all down hill. :saywhat:
-
Looking very nice, Pat.
I like the unbraced profile.
-
:thumbsup: :bigsmyl:
-
Hope I can keep most of that Roy and Mark . I'll be heading back to the basement soon so I should have more pics later today or this evening.
-
I did a little more today but my camera ate the pics. :dunno: I'll get more done tomorrow. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
LOL
-
Well, maybe the day after tomorrow. Anyway I got back in the shop today. One thing I do in the early stages of tillering is to continue to check the limb thickness along each edge of both limbs and again use my hand and a pencil to scribe a line showing areas uneven in thickness. You can see the line here where the limb edge is thicker.
(https://i.imgur.com/BtTvfmB.jpg)
I continue this pencil line through the handle area from limb to limb to insure the thickness is consistent through the tillering process.
(https://i.imgur.com/Uc4N5Yx.jpg)
After a little more belly scraping I exercise well first then I can also get a good view of how and where the limbs are bending. Here I am at 17" on a loose string. It bow is pulling 50# at this point so I have plenty weight to loose while adjusting the tiller.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZHvkJtr.jpg)
I decided to pull out the good ole tillering Gizmo. This is my tiller stick. It has 3 settings, 4.5", 7.5" 11.5" and 14" at the top. I use it very little, only when using the Gizmo. Looks like I'm at 11.5" on a loose tillering string in the pic.
(https://i.imgur.com/ohUyJ0H.jpg)
Here is the Gizmo in action. You can see the pencil line where I need to give it a few scrapes.
(https://i.imgur.com/QfAnn03.jpg?1)
...more to come...
-
Looking nice Pat
-
Looking good Pat! How many hours do you think you have into this bow so far?
-
Flem, I'm only putting an hour or two with each session and probably 1/4 of that time is in taking pics. It isn't uncommon for me to have at least 20 hours in a selfbow using a clean stave so with this stave, with it's knots and concave back I was expecting it would take me at least a bit longer. I had to re-correct the twist in one limb this morning. I'll get back on it later today.
-
Got the bow to brace height today. You can see the tiller is off with the right side off the most. Both limbs are bending at mid limb and need more bend out each limb and back into the fades.
(https://i.imgur.com/fJewiSC.jpg)
...and at 22", going for 26".
(https://i.imgur.com/muCCJHn.jpg)
The limb with the twisted tip also had a lateral bend so I got out the oil, the heat gun and a few clamps.
(https://i.imgur.com/f5GVGXc.jpg?1)
...more to come...
-
It's getting better Pat.
Looks sweet.
-
:jumper:
-
Thanks guys. I'll get a bit more done today but we have a major ice storm heading our way tonight and tomorrow so I have to be sure we are ready for that. We rarely get major ice here, less than 30 miles down the road. In the 30 years we've lived here we've only had 1 major ice storm. A few lesser ones, only the kind that are just pretty but I think tonight might be bad. :saywhat:
-
I've been looking for this pat and found it today.
Works really good for those concave rings, you can hear the early growth rings when you get down to them, then come back with the scraper.
It's not flat on the bottom.
(https://i.imgur.com/ppVMr6O.jpg)
I cant find it on the internet because I don't know what to call it. :knothead:
Looks like a beaver tail.
Works like a chisel :thumbsup:
(https://i.imgur.com/gKSsnD6.jpg)
-
It looks like a ground down spoon gouge. Do you hold it vertically and scrape with it?
Dave.
-
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
It looks like a ground down spoon gouge. Do you hold it vertically and scrape with it?
Dave.
Just like using a flat chisel to shave, Parallel to the stave.
That could work Roy
-
I have used flat chisels to scrape in the past. Never thought of using a gouge on hollow or curved wood.
Dave.
-
I was trying to chase a concave ring on Osage at the Tn. Classic and someone let me barrow that tool and it worked really good.
-
Thanks Mark. That would work well for a concave back.
I decided to shape the handle. I start with the lines marking out the center and outside of the 4" handle area. On the center line I draw a circle 1 1/4" in diameter and 2" out on either side of the center I draw a 7/8" circle. I then connect these circles with lines and out to the end of the fade at 1 1/2" wide. This outlines the handle.
(https://i.imgur.com/Cjx2gtz.jpg)
with a #49 Nicholson and farriers rasp I start shaping.
(https://i.imgur.com/SB7c0wN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GyWaAsr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZkJ2V9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5pDnLlj.jpg)
as I'm working on and around the handle area I keep adding these reference lines to keep me on track
(https://i.imgur.com/5A3vfKC.jpg)
more shaping all around the handle.
(https://i.imgur.com/ta8WkR5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P9OaVdJ.jpg)
While shaping the handle and fades I decided to shorten the fades from 4" to 3" to get a little more working limb.
Here is the bow as it stands now. This bow was built symmetrical but this pic doesn't show that.
(https://i.imgur.com/UW9Hfie.jpg)
I made a new string for the bow and braced her for her first sweat. Sweating, like exercising helps to set the tiller. I kept her braced for an hour and when unbraced she still held 1" of reflex. I still haven't determined top or bottom limb. As I shoot the bow in she will tell me what's up! :thumbsup:
More to come...
-
Nice Pat :bigsmyl:
-
She's coming right along Pat
-
This thread is so helpful. I just started my first Osage bow in about ten years. Thanks for the refresher course Pat.
-
I'm dealing with lower back problems now so I won't be bracing or drawing a bow for a while but I thought I'd share another helpful tip.The back of a bow handle is usually flat with square but with slightly rounded edges. This is uncomfortable to me so I like to add a rounded overlay to help fill it out in my hand. I used to own a leather shop so I have these shoe sole precuts. They are about 1/4" thick. You can also do this with cork or even cardboard.
(https://i.imgur.com/rT5wLx8.jpg)
I cut out a strip on the bandsaw about 4" long and a little over 1" wide.
(https://i.imgur.com/NlEPEGt.jpg)
Then to the belt sander to make it a long oval
(https://i.imgur.com/dWBdNGr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j5PXtaG.jpg)
then round the edges and over the back
(https://i.imgur.com/lv49Wca.jpg)
I make sure it fits. Doesn't have to be perfect now. More fine tuning later.
(https://i.imgur.com/BNrHMle.jpg)
now it time to glue it down with TBIII. I size the the flat side of the overlay and the back of the handle
(https://i.imgur.com/ZV5IsI1.jpg)
put the pieces together and hold them tight with strips of rubber bands until the glue dries. Usually a day or two. I also use rubber bands to hold tip overlays for glueing.
(https://i.imgur.com/3LTD56V.jpg)
to be continued...
-
Good idea there Pat.
-
Use what you have :thumbsup:
-
Looking good Pat!
For padding and insulating the grips on my two piece takedown bows I use craft foam from my fly tying kit.
-
I finally found it Pat
It works really good for chasing a ring in concaved staves
https://mdiwoodcarvers.com/products/3-4-round-end-wide-format-fishtail-gouge
-
Thanks Mark. Looks like a good tool for concave backs and other areas and at a good price.
I haven't done much with the bow lately. With my back going out a few weeks ago I didn't want to over do it. Also on Monday myself and a friend started a kitchen/bathroom remodel for a couple. We got to rip out all the plaster and lath in the kitchen of an almost 100 year old house, walls and ceiling. I'll be picking concrete buggers for a week. :laughing:
-
:thumbsup: :laughing:
-
Wear a mask and gloves, Pat:)
-
Had both, Roy plus eye protection but with a full beard I don't get a real good seal on my face but at least it pre-filtered before it hits my nose. :bigsmyl:
-
Atta boy.
So what weight are you shooting for on this bow?
It for you or someone else?
Looks like ya have a lot of wood to remove yet.
-
40# to 50#, whichever comes first. It's getting close. I've been thinking it was looking thin.
We have a few days off waiting on subs so hopefully I can get more done this weekend.
Marcia and I celebrated our 43 anniversary today. :thumbsup:
-
Poor thing, your wife :laughing:
Happy Anniversary :thumbsup:
-
Happy Anniversary to you folks.
43 years, she must like ya....
:thumbsup:
What's ya gonna shoot for arrows, cane or wood?
-
43 years, congratulations and she must like you.
-
She's never seen me without a beard. :bigsmyl: I had my beard 8 years before we met. :saywhat:
I'm afraid if she saw what was under my beard she'd probably leave me. :laughing:
-
Well, you're not gonna believe this :o...but I finished tillering yesterday and have started adding the Tru Oil finish. While Mark is out of town I thought I'd copy his rattan handle so don't tell him :saywhat: and I'm gonna use a floppy rest. The bow was coming out a little light so I piked it about 2". She's now 62" N/N and 64" T/T and pulls about 43#@26" and shoots pretty good. Not gonna add tip overlays, just gonna keep her pretty simple.
Just so you don't think I'm fibbing I added a pic...
(https://i.imgur.com/fAfyFJp.jpg)
-
Looking nice Pat.
-
I got the rattan handle wrap on with a floppy rest and 4 coats of Tru Oil. Tomorrow I'll get 2 more coats on and when that dries I'll give her a quick spray of satin poly. I need to put lots more arrows through her but she's holding 1" of reflex as of now. More to come. :thumbsup:
-
Looks great sir! You have me wanting to maybe clean off my bench and give it another go🤔
-
As you can see from my pics, Ken, you don't have to clean off your work bench. :bigsmyl: :laughing:
-
:biglaugh: Man, I don’t know! Mine’s been a “catch all” for the past 4 years! :o I have both a hickory and Osage that are roughed out and floor tillered for 4 years also.
-
At least they are well seasoned. :thumbsup:
-
Ken, didn't happen wifout pichers:)
-
Really looks good Pat
-
Well, you're not gonna believe this :o...but I finished tillering yesterday and have started adding the Tru Oil finish. While Mark is out of town I thought I'd copy his rattan handle so don't tell him :saywhat: and I'm gonna use a floppy rest. The bow was coming out a little light so I piked it about 2". She's now 62" N/N and 64" T/T and pulls about 43#@26" and shoots pretty good. Not gonna add tip overlays, just gonna keep her pretty simple.
Just so you don't think I'm fibbing I added a pic...
(https://i.imgur.com/fAfyFJp.jpg)
Can't wait to see it all finished :thumbsup: :jumper:
-
Getting close. I'll post a tease a bit later.
-
Just a tease...
(https://i.imgur.com/oeEkh7J.jpg)
-
:thumbsup:
-
So the high tech yin to your yang bow would be Compound "W"?
-
I wanted to take more pics and spray satin poly today but it's raining. Maybe it will clear up enough this afternoon to get it done.
-
Had to go around my elbow to get these up.
Just sprayed the bow. Will have more pics with a full draw later.
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
-
Nice pat :thumbsup:
-
Sweet!
-
That is looking Sweet!
-
That looks like it’s really comfy in the hand Mr. Pat!
-
Thanks guys. If weather permits I'll get the rest of the pics taken tomorrow. :thumbsup:
-
Well, it wasn't tomorrow but I did get some pics today for you guys. I'll get a full draw pic when Marcia finishes with our taxes.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qy0sHW1.jpg)
unbraced after shooting a dozen or so arrows
(https://i.imgur.com/8ZuJaFZ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/YPDo6tA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FJCGTKS.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/zsvoKpi.jpg?1)
-
Bows with knots on the back like that just amaze me.
Very nice, Pat.
-
Thanks Roy. If the back ring was chased cleanly around the knots the bow should be very safe. The tree supplies extra wood around branches to support the branches.
-
Yes I understand that, opposed to 1/4 sawn belly wood that has a pin knot exploding:) LOL
I'm planning on making some BBO bows with flat sawn billets.
I think they would be sharp as heck..
-
Really nice Pat love the knots :thumbsup:
-
Thanks, Mark.
Was the Classic a classic?
-
Thanks, Mark.
Was the Classic a classic?
It was a good one
-
Finally, braced and full draw...
(https://i.imgur.com/gmrSTu6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/khJVQ5F.jpg)
-
Well done Pat!
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
-
Really nice pat :clapper:
-
I'll have to say this has been a difficult build for me with the concave back and all the knots. A few years ago I wouldn't have given it a second thought. It has got me thinking about another one. :thumbsup:
-
Did you do some more heat bending to get the handle set back toward you?
-
That came with the stave, Mark. Besides side to side bending I only added overall reflex.
-
:thumbsup:
-
Looks very nice Pat.
I have an osage stave Mark sent me and your build here will help me with it.
I've only ever done 2 stave bow builds.
-
Beautiful bow Mr Pat!
-
Thanks, Guys.
Roy, any help I can give all you gotta do is ask. Looking forward to your build. Do you have one of Eric's tiller Gizmos?
-
Yes I have a gizmo, I use it on every bow I make...
-
The back on that stave should be good Roy but I’m not sure. Get one of your buddies that can see to look at it
-
It doesn't look bad you cleaned it up some, maybe a little scraping and it should be good.
I'm red-green color blind and chasing rings is tuff for me for some reason.
It's a little snaky, not much and you already have some lines drawn on it.
I could head out to Bowjunkies with it, he's very good at self bows.
It's next inline to be worked on, had to make 3 tries for the swap bow and have another for a buddy almost done.
-
It doesn't look bad you cleaned it up some, maybe a little scraping and it should be good.
I'm red-green color blind and chasing rings is tuff for me for some reason.
It's a little snaky, not much and you already have some lines drawn on it.
I could head out to Bowjunkies with it, he's very good at self bows.
It's next inline to be worked on, had to make 3 tries for the swap bow and have another for a buddy almost done.
If I started laying out the bow, it should be good unless it got a ding on it in shipping :thumbsup:
-
No dings...
-
Looking great
-
Thanks, Bue. :thumbsup: