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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Roy from Pa on January 22, 2021, 05:06:36 AM
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I was contacted by a guy about uneven lams coming from his drum sander.
He said they are wavy not perfectly flat.
He has seen my videos of me running lams through and he has a grizzly sander like mine.
I gave him some suggestions and I'm seeking you guys input.
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Was he making good lams, and then something changed, or has he been having this problem from the start?
This is going to be hard to troubleshoot without more info, and without actually being there to inspect his machine and see how he's doing it. There are just so many variables.
I'd check to make sure nothing came loose, all bearings and bushings are good, check feed rate and the amount of material he's trying to remove. He might just have to slow the feed rate and take less material off each pass. What grit paper is he using?
Also make sure the lam isn't slipping on the sled, the sled isn't slipping on the feed belt, the feed belt isn't slipping on its drive roller, and the drum drive belt isn't slipping on a pulley, etc... could be lots of things bud. I'm just throwing some things out there, I've never had wavy lams, but my machine is a little different than yours too so, maybe some of this doesn't apply, but those are the sort of things I'd be looking at first.
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Thanks Jeff.
I'll have him jump in here.
Not sure about your first question of if he did get good lams.
I don't think he has gotten good lams.
He sent me a pm late last night and I told him to check a lot of things you listed.
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Ok sounds good. There's others here with more lam grinding experience than me and I'm sure they'll think of some things too.
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More questions - are these tapered lams or flat? Is his sled known to be true and flat?
Mark
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Both and sled is flat.
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I have noticed with my drum sander, which is manual feed, that if I am not smooth and consistent with my feed rate I can get wave or mid board snipe. I would have him inspect the all the mechanisms associated with the feed belt. Maybe get a dial indicator on the drum and check it for runout just incase. Some times a simple tune-up can remedy minor problems. Clean, lube, adjust if necessary.
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Both and sled is flat.
Hmmm. How bad is the waviness in terms of measured thickness?
Mark
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On my first drum sander, I was getting random spots .004 to .005 thinner, so I sold it and bought a bigger widebelt. Same same , finally when I had pulled most of my hair out I discovered the conveyor belt splice was thicker then the rest of it. Just a thought, but possible depending on the wave...
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I wonder if the feed speed is oscillating for some reason... Maybe peek under the belt and see if there is any built up resin on the platen... The belt could be grabbing... Maybe clean both surfaces anyway... Or something could be wrong with the drive motor or gears...
If there is lots of short waves the drum might not be rolling true... Check as flem said...
The Junk man had lots of good suggestions...
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Or the belt could be slipping...
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I mentioned all you guys said above, but this morning I sent him a PM and he is in the hospital.
They had to take him in an ambulance for lung problems last night.
So we will have to wait till he gets home, thanks guy's.
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Dang, hope he is OK!!
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Oh No!! :pray: :pray:
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If they a wavey the feed rate is not costant. Figuring out why may take awhile.
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Thanks Mike
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Roy you were talking with my father.
this is what is going on we have a brand new grizzly drum sander we will cut lams at 0.200 then run them thought the sander fast slow very small bites where it does not make any sound change a little bigger bites. the target let say is .125 it will be .125 then 4 inches down it may be .133........0.136..0.129 and so on some times i can get them perfect but i have to run the lam through 150 times.i have removed the velcro from the drum and taping on my paper..
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my father is doing ok holding him for a few days but doing ok....
thanks for the concern i will pass it on..
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sounds like snipe.
measure it at 10" and 20" and see if it's good or every inch from 10-20
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I have measured every inch from one end to the other wavy wavy
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I think I'd call Grizzly and tell them what's going on, it should be more accurate than that. If they can't help , tell them you want another sander. See what they say to that.
If your paper is wound tight without the velcro, it should be closer. May have a bent shaft somewhere, I would suspect the conveyor first since it moves slowly and the sanding drum is fast.
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Yeah if the machine is brand new call Grizzly. They usally pretty good on warranty stuff.
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Maybe check the drum roller to see if the bolts are tight on the bearings :dunno:
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You should not be troubleshooting a new machine from Grizzly. Get a return voucher, send that P.O.S. back and get a new one.
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thanks guys i will call grizzly tomorrow or mon see what they can do for me..
Kenny m this is Jason from mi got my order thank you for the quick service...
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You should not be troubleshooting a new machine from Grizzly. Get a return voucher, send that P.O.S. back and get a new one.
Yep
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Howdy Jason
I agree with calling grizzly
Hope your dad makes out well and they release him soon.
Tell him I said hello.
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Good deal Jason, shipping is shaky right now! :saywhat:
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Shipping isn't the only thing shaky there:)
Just sayen:)
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Hey , I’m solid as a rock and almost as fast ... :laughing:
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Not gonna say a word:)
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Thanks to everyone for jumping in and helping out with this problem. Hopefully we will get it solved and can get on the right track for grinding our own materials. On another note still in the hospital. They are not sure what happened other than I was unable to get any air. My lungs were and are clear. No blood clots, no cancer just my COPD. Could have had something to do with it but they can’t really say. Good news is I am going back home Sunday, so I can see if I can figure these grinding issues out.😊😊😊
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That's great to hear, watch the sanding dust! :thumbsup:
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That's great news.
About the sanding dust, there are some woods that bother me when sanding.
Maybe that's what happened to you.
I now wear a facemask when around fine sawdust.
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Sanding dust could have been the culprit. I am pretty lax on mask wear. Going to be a lot more mask wearing now!
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Yup, I've had short of breath problems after being in heavy sanding dust.
Bamboo is nasty to me so I mask up and wear goggles when running boo through the drum sander.
Maybe because I've done so much boo.
IPE gave me a severe reaction years ago and messed up my immune system.
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Once you become allergic to one species of wood, it doesn’t take much to be bothered by others.
For me it was pau ferro. I built two bows with it and I noticed that it made me itch. Now I find that I’ll sneeze quite a bit after sanding. Sometimes hours later I’m still sneezing my head off. I used to be covered from head to toe in wood dust with no ill effects when I was younger.
Dave.
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Yew and coco here, walnut a little...
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Coco bacote bolivian rosewood here.
A guy ought to used to wearing a mask now days. :bigsmyl:
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I would like to get an air helmet, but they’re super expensive.
The company I work for bought one for our painter. Really nice. $1500.
Dave.
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Roy you were talking with my father.
this is what is going on we have a brand new grizzly drum sander we will cut lams at 0.200 then run them thought the sander fast slow very small bites where it does not make any sound change a little bigger bites. the target let say is .125 it will be .125 then 4 inches down it may be .133........0.136..0.129 and so on some times i can get them perfect but i have to run the lam through 150 times.i have removed the velcro from the drum and taping on my paper..
If your just taping on your paper on the ends that may be the issue.
The centrifugal force may be causing the paper to lift off the drum. I use spray adhesive when changing paper on my baby drum sander.
Just a thought
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Randy that's a good possibility.
Jason you may want to check that.
Did you also remove the velcro that is adhered to the drum and only wrapping new paper around the bare drum?
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I know a lot of guys use the grizzly drums and can make them work. I guess if your going to make a couple bows a month.. The small performax is what I started with and it was good and slow.
Grizzly has some good tools mixed in with some bad tools. I have a few that I like or love. Got rid of the rest.
BigJim
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Update: I am back home. Everything seems to be good. I think that after talking to my Dr. and several of the nurses that the sanding dust was the problem. My lungs were clear the whole time I was in the hospital. They could not figure out what happened. Next question is, what have you found to be the best mask for keeping dust out that won’t fog up your glasses? Thanks again for all the help. Stack
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You really need some kind of dust collection to connect to a sander. And unless its 100% effective, you should be wearing a N95 mask at minimum. If you like breathing its worth the money and effort to protect your lungs.
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We have a dust collection system hooked up to our machines. It is when we are hand sanding and using palm sanders and our finger sander that is the problem. Looking into some more dust removal system.
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Ya gotta get one of these.
They are amazing..
Ya have a PM..
https://youtu.be/u3Qkn8oPq5Q
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Hi Stack,
My wife who is a retired RN (and a woodworker) agrees with Flem on the N95. She always wears one in the wood shop (and now grocery store) and frequently had to wear one when caring for patients.
She also wears glasses and says this stuff really works with the fogging.
Good luck. ~Bob D.
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Ditch the fabric masks and get a respirator mask.
If your glasses are fogging.....your mask isn’t sealed.
If your mask isn’t sealed dust is getting by.
I prefer a full face respirator mask. Keeps dust out of lungs and eyes.
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I use spray adhesive when changing paper on my baby drum sander.
This is a very good idea. On my home made sander I hit a problem where the paper wasn't quite tight on the drum and some dust got under the paper and caused a high spot that started bevelling off the edges of the lams. I've cleaned it out and it is now a maintenance item to watch but the next strip of paper that goes on will have 3M77 on the back of it.
Ditch the fabric masks and get a respirator mask.
+1. One of the respirator types that uses the plug in cartridge filters can be fitted properly so nothing gets out and glasses don't fog.
Mark
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This is what I use everyday in the wood shop.
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This is a reasonably comfortable set-up. Those P-100 filters are cheap and they flow better than vapor cartridges. If you get a half mask or like Brad said, the full face, be sure to get the silicone version. The cheaper dark grey plastic version does not seal as well and gets uncomfortable quick. If you have a beard, please disregard everything I said.
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I use one like Flem does or a n95.
And a grizzly air filter G9956
It helps pull the dust away from
You
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Yup, I have the G9956 too.
Works great.
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Me too roy
you can turn the lights out in the bow room with the air filter on, and a flash light and see the dust going around to the filter.
Try it :thumbsup:
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Roy or Mad Max have you ever
Had the air filter turn on buy its self ??
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I'll try it maxi.
Nope never turned on by itself.
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I have one of those too, amazing how much dust they catch and how much air goes thru em.
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Didn't happen wifout pichers..
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Roy or Mad Max have you ever
Had the air filter turn on buy its self ??
YES
I have to unplug mine every time I leave the bow shop.
Some of that good china made stuff.
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Might need to unplug mine too, but it's never started by itself.
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I have been unpluging mine
Too. Thanks
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If they have the pull chain, I'm bettin that switch is junk...
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It has a remote switch. I think
If I loose power it starts when
the power comes back on
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Kenny, you pulling our chain?:)
My remote takes a battery.
If yours runs off 110 vac, you may be right there.
Maxi, does your remote run off ac?
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I think mine is the G0572 with a circuit board.
It was coming on by itself.
It has a 3 speed motor, it was cycling threw all speeds , over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over :banghead:
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Mine is old, has a remote and pull chain...
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I probably had about 3 hours on mine when it started acting up.
they could have used a pull chain on mine too.
If it was made back in the day, it would work for ever :tongue:
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Mine has to be 12 years old, has the pull chain on the unit and the battery powered remote is 20 feet away from the unit.
The remote can adjust the speed in a variable amount.
I just ordered a new inside filter for it, it's eaten a lot of dust and I fuggered it was about time.
$84.00, damn....
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Those triple bag filters are washable. I blow mine out and wash it regularly.
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Yes I know but it's 12 years old and was getting deformed inside..
It has been washed many times.
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Those triple bag filters are washable. I blow mine out and wash it regularly.
With a water hose?
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I have removed the velcro.
i also purchased a air filtration system for the shop it is on its way.
How thick is the sled you all are using mine is 3/4" and is flat ?
how much material are you removing at one time i only move my handle 1/8th of a turn barley taking any material off?
i have looked through my sander all looks good nothing loose nothing binding up drive belt looks good no high spots in it.
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No, I blow it out with compressed air and then wash it.
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Jason
What did you do for attaching the paper now?
Sled is 1/2" thick.
I turn the handle one complete turn after running the lam through twice.
Cool on air filtration system
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We are taping it on and pulling real tight each time were done i have no finger prints left.
Do you think maybe i am taking off too little and it is allowing the lam to rise a tad bit causing my life havoc.
I end up running these through 100 time (maybe not that many but it sure feels like it) in order to get a usable lam.
What is the starting point you use when cutting the lams out on the band saw? i cut mine at .125"
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Just taping the ends?
I would clean all the residue off the drum if you totally removed the velcro that was adhered to it, them use a high tac glue" spray can" and coat the whole drum and back of the paper, then use reinforced tape on each end.
But honestly, I have no problem with the hook and loop paper getting decent accuracy.
Your 1/8th turn on the adjustment handle ain't gonna do nothing, do a complete turn and do 2 passes before going another complete turn.
For belly lams that I want 1/4" when done, I cut them to 5/16th thick.
Core lam I cut to about 3/16th
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I use tape also. 2 wraps with a 1" strip of duct tape. The only time I had a problem was when I taped it backwards and the tag end was facing the direction of rotation.
When you guys are running a sled thru the sander, how many revolutions does the feed belt make during one pass?
Jason, have you had problems with one species of wood or many?
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I am using mainly maple cores but i have done other types also still have the same issue.
I will try gluing it on now see how that works.(paper)
Feed belt revolutions not sure i can mark it and see if i had to guess 4 maybe?..
maybe i need to asses my lam lay outs what are you guys running how many lams in a stack ? How many tapers?
I talk with some guys the have 2p 3t and 2 glass how?
To hit my .350 i use (2) .030 glass (2) .100 par (1) .090 taper
Removing the velcro did not really help much.
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Feed belt revolutions not sure i can mark it and see if i had to guess 4 maybe?.. ----
If I remember right, the baby drum has a conveyor long enough to run a 36" lam without being on the belt splice (which by the way usually makes a thinner spot on the lam) I mark both ends of splice and stay off it on last couple passes...
what are you guys running how many lams in a stack ? How many tapers? -----
I run 4 wood or boo lams, usually 2 veneers @ .030 and 2 tapers - .001 and .002 but you could run 2 - .0015 tapers in my bows. ( make sure if one bends up riser ramps to be thin enough to bend) This is on d/r bows from 56 to 64"
To hit my .350 i use (2) .030 glass (2) .100 par (1) .090 taper -----
In my bows I would use 2 - .040 glass --- 2- .030 parallels --- 1 - .001 taper @ .080 ---- 1- .002 taper @.130 or a variation of that.... :thumbsup:
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Kenny those were closer to the numbers i have been trying to get too.
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There is no splice in my baby drum sander feed belt.
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There is no splice in my baby drum sander feed belt.
I'm bettin there is... :saywhat:
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What's it look like?
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Its hard to see, but most look like there is a finer weave there so to speak . You can see it if ya look close on the last 2 sanders I've had, never knew to look at the BD I had. Think they would be the same tho...
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K
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There is no splice in my baby drum sander feed belt.
x2
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They must make them different than their others then....
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Can you guys adjust the conveyor speed on that sander?
It seems like it has to be feed rate related as long as their are not any mechanical defects.
Have you tried different feed rates, if its possible, Jason?
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Yup it's adjustable.
I been exchanging pm's with Jason.
He has only been turning up the feed table height 1/8th of a turn at a time.
That is not taking hardly anything off, I turn the handle 1 full turn and do 2 passes then another turn up.
I have not heard back from him since I explained that to him.
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Roy, jason has been quite busy at work the last couple of days. I’m sure he will get back with you. Has anybody had any thing to do with the trend hood that Rockler sells? It is a positive air hood. Very pricey but if it will allow me to continue to build I think it would be worth it. Just would like to get some input from any one who has used one. Thanks for all the help fellows.
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No problem Bill.
Get a good dust protection outfit.
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I refuse to give up on this sander i will win this battle.
I am going to get a 2x4 and cut them up and run every combo i can until i get it figured out.
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I'm rooting for you :thumbsup:
I know it would bug the crap out of me!
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I have removed the velcro.
i also purchased a air filtration system for the shop it is on its way.
How thick is the sled you all are using mine is 3/4" and is flat ?
how much material are you removing at one time i only move my handle 1/8th of a turn barley taking any material off?
i have looked through my sander all looks good nothing loose nothing binding up drive belt looks good no high spots in it.
I took the Velcro off mine.
half a turn grinding lams until I get close--60 grit--3/4" thick sled.
I crank my pressure roller down to the lam, turn on the sander, as it going threw I crank down until I here it sanding, then half turn until I get close to thickness.
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I do about the same Mark.
With sander off, I push the lam into the pressure roller back and forth while cranking up the height till it gets a little snug. You need to do this with both ends of the lam, then adjust the height to the thicker end. Because if you adjust the height to the thinner end and along comes the thicker end through the sander, you could smoke the sandpaper on the drum.
Ask me how I know, LOL.
Then run it through, it may or may not sand the lam even on first pass.
So from that point on, I do a full turn on the height adjustment and run the lam through twice.
I can run the lam through 3 or 4 times and it will still take off a tiny bit.
Then repeat the one full turn and run lam through twice.
As I get closer to my final thickness, I'll do a half turn then a quarter turn.
I don't really care for the hook and loop Velcro system and I can see where you glass bow guys wouldn't want it because you need your lams precise, within a few thousands of an inch to get your stack correct.
But for me making all wood bows, my lams come out good enough.
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like roy said but half turn with NO velcro
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Mark how are you attaching the drum paper now?
The drums I've seen without Velcro have a spring type clamping assembly for holding the end of the paper tight.
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with the velcro, 2 round of strapping tape at the ends
NO velcro, 3M spray glue and 2 rounds of strapping tape at the ends.
NO clamp on my roller :thumbsup:
EDIT roy I took my hook and loop off
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with the velcro, 2 round of strapping tape at the ends-- Me too.
NO velcro, 3M spray glue and 2 rounds of strapping tape at the ends.- OK
NO clamp on my roller- No there wouldn't be since it was designed for Velcro.
EDIT roy I took my hook and loop off. No kidding? LOL
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My drum sander was too complicated for my pea brain so I let someone else have the headache. I switched to an adjustable steel sled running on a rail system thru my planer. Cuts perfect lams and tapers and I only have to sharpen the planer blades occasionally. As some of you know, my shop in the delta flooded two years in a row with 4 ft of water and ruined some of my equipment. I have moved to a "hill" and built a new shop, will be back in production in the spring. NO my planer and sled didn't get wet. I am thinking I will video a build-along and detail the planer in action for those that are interested, especially for "flem" who informed me that without pitchers it didn't happen.
James
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Hey James I remember when you got flooded.
Good to see you back with a new shop on higher ground.
Looking forward to the planer process.
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:scared:
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James , I'm glad you got moved to higher ground. :thumbsup:
That metal sled and planer just spooks me a little... :o
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James yes, let us see that planer in action. Would be most interesting.
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My drum sander was too complicated for my pea brain so I let someone else have the headache. I switched to an adjustable steel sled running on a rail system thru my planer. Cuts perfect lams and tapers and I only have to sharpen the planer blades occasionally. As some of you know, my shop in the delta flooded two years in a row with 4 ft of water and ruined some of my equipment. I have moved to a "hill" and built a new shop, will be back in production in the spring. NO my planer and sled didn't get wet. I am thinking I will video a build-along and detail the planer in action for those that are interested, especially for "flem" who informed me that without pitchers it didn't happen.
James
It worked! :cheesy:
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I switched to an adjustable steel sled running on a rail system thru my planer.
I would be interested in seeing some pics of that sled set up.
Mark
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I ordered the hog grinder and it showed up yesterday. Hooked it up and ran a couple of samples through it and I think this is going to be a great way to grind our lams and parallels. They came out real close. Just need to work with it now.
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I must have missed it, what's the hog grinder?
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Vanda-layindustries.com. Check out the hog grinder here
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Mine is a go to for finishing lams ;)
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Mad max, that is what we are going to do also. Get them close on the drum sander and finish them on the hog.
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:thumbsup:
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I ordered the hog grinder and it showed up yesterday. Hooked it up and ran a couple of samples through it and I think this is going to be a great way to grind our lams and parallels. They came out real close. Just need to work with it now.
Iv
I've been looking at that but haven't found a suitable motor. What did you use?
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I had 6 Heavy duty Dayton fans in my Machine shop back in the mid 90's.
I still have 2, but one I used the motor for my Hog. :thumbsup:
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I haven't been looking at fans. Might try that.
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I haven't been looking at fans. Might try that.
I have a backup motor, A bench grinder I never use :bigsmyl:
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Stack, did you guys ever get your drum sander working right?
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Roy, haven’t been able to get out to the shop lately. Zero temperature around here and not much heat in the barn right now!
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Don't ya have long under ware and hunten boots and socks and gloves and a hat and coat?
LOL I understand...
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Lol Roy, we are set up in the hayloft of an old farm barn. Lots of room but really hard to heat. Working on something different for the future.