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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: BMOELLER on February 13, 2007, 06:46:00 PM
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What would be the best way to make your own antler limb bolts?
Cut the head off the bolt then drill and tap the antler knob then add epoxy?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thought I might give it a try and would really like to have antler knobs on my bow.
Thanks
BMoeller :archer:
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I used to make them for sale and donations for various hunting organizations a few years back. Things I discovered while building them were.
1. Cut off antlers polished up and were better for engraving/carving then the shed antlers because they were not as porous. Mature whitetail and mule deer antlers work best for most recurves and smaller ones (3-4 points) for longbows.
2. As mentioned by Mike, JB weld worked great for embedding the nut. I have since used MT-13 for takedown handles and feel it might work better.
3. When embedding the nut, use a high quality nut. I got mine from Hilti, the world’s largest manufacture of nuts and bolts: there quality is second to none.
4. The procedure I used to embed the nut was as follows:
a. Test fit the nut for depth (make the hole deeper then needed for extra epoxy), angle, and the base of the burr to the limb for a "flat fit".
b. Wax all of the parts below, except the nut to be epoxied, to prevent adhesion.
c. Screw a nut (same size) on to a bolt, leaving enough threads exposed to allow for a fender washer, wax paper, and another nut.
d. Add the fender washer.
e. Add the wax paper wax paper to keep the epoxy from sticking to the fender washer.
f. Screw the second “non-waxed” nut (the one that will be epoxied into the antler burr) on to the bolt and finger tighten. Make sure the end of the bolt is even or a little past the end of the nut. The end of the bolt must be waxed or it will not come out when the epoxy sets.
g. Add some epoxy to the hole, but not to much, you do not want to have excess running out when the nut is inserted.
h. This step next is important for proper alignment!! Insert the nut into the hole and use a couple of small spring clamps to hold the washer tight against the antler burr until the epoxy is cured. Make sure the wax paper/washer is flush with the base of the burr.
5. Always use a plastic washer between the antler burr and bow limb to prevent damaging the limb.
6. Next Assemble the limb, with the plastic washer, and antler burr using the proper length all thread bolt and check for alignment, I used feeler gauges. The antler burrs will look better in some positions then others and if you decide to do any engraving they should be set in a vertical format.
7. Check that the antler burr is aligned in the direction you like best. This requires removing the burr and adjusting the all thread as needed. The all thread I used had an Allen wrench hole in the end to allow minute adjustments. It will usually take several attempts to get this correct. At times I had to put a drop of super glue on the nut and all thread to temporarily hold them in place.
8. Once the burr is properly aligned (when the bolt is tightened, but not over tightened), remove the assembly, mark, remove the all thread, and then epoxy it into place using the marks for a guide.
There are other methods but this is the method I developed through trial and error, hopefully it will make it easier for anybody who attempts this endeavor.
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Thanks for the advice Walt.
Anyone else have any input?
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Or does anyone sell them? Maybe that would be the way to go.
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Frank, AKA Sticshooter makes some beauty's..you can find him here on this site.
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I'm all for the do it yourselfers, but why bother if it ain't special, etc...Frank does a fantastic job and are basically free for the amount of time it saves.
My Nickels worth...
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I'll give Frank holler
Thanks
Brian
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Frank's the man...
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Man, do you have to go through all that work? I haven't attempted it yet, but I was thinking of just using a bolt, likely an Allen head bolt, and epoxying that in a slightly over-sized hole drilled into the antler base. My only concern though would be the epoxy popping loose from the antler, under tension. Would this not work? If it would, will the epoxy hold up fine or will a washer need to be epoxied on the bottom of the bur as well?
I guess if you are overly concerned with the alignment of the antler base, then Walt's way might be best. However, I just assumed that carvings and other decorations would be applied after glue up, then alignment before hand wouldn't be an issue. Like I said at the beginning though, I never have tried it yet, so I may be way off course here.
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jchunt4ever, I to was concerned with the bolt breaking away from the epoxy. I decided to drill a hole in the bolt and on the side of the antler and put in a small strong type of wire through both making the letter T. In this way it would be very hard for the bolt to break away from the epoxy since it would have to break the wire to in order to become loose. You cover the small hole with epoxy and it becomes invisible.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v107/doublelung/Holedrilledinantler.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v107/doublelung/Boltwithholedrilledforwire.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v107/doublelung/IM000575.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v107/doublelung/AntlerKnob.jpg)
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Good stuff here! Thanks for sharing guys. I want to give this a try, but won't get to it right away. This one needs to go the the how to archives!
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I have swapped and sold alot of these. in the early times when I started making them I tried alotta ways of making them.Came up with a way now that workls great. BTW if anyone has a set I made and have had any problems pm me I will take care of it. If any of my burrs come off the bolt the limbs will stay inplace because the bolt is holding the limbs not the antler burr. Here is a pic of a set I made (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/fishrofmen1/PANA8522.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/fishrofmen1/PANA7063.jpg)
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stics as soon as my bow gets in i will be contacting you !those are gorgeous!
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Frank, those are both very nice. The ones on the right are totally unique! I bet they look awesome on a bow. Great work. mike
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Sidebuster, thanks for that info. I have actually thought about that too, and your pics seem to show the way I was thinking. I am definitely going to have to make time to try this out and see for myself what works best.
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Hello BMoeller, i wrote the article in TBM 4Nolz refered to earlier. Walt's way is very similiar to mine. If you need it then I can email or mail it to you for a second reference. or I'll email me and I can call you and walk you through it..good luck.. JoeBuck
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joe, if you can email it I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
Brian
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You got it Brian, however i looked through all my old articles and found my TBM story "Dressing Up Recurves" but No pictures. However it was featured in Spring of 1998TBM according to my contract that TBM paid me $1000 for..!@#$ just kidding E Don.. But you get serious on making one, we'll talk through it on the phone. JoeBuck
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I have a pair of sticshooters I have had on one of my bows for a few years. Looks like the set on the left. They are beautiful, and I love them. Everybody always notices them before my bow! Brady
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Did I say left. I meant right. It's a doctor thing. Brady
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I've already contacted Sticshooter, and I'm getting a pair. I also am interested in making some myself.
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BMOELLER, can't email you. but if still interested let me know..If you do buy some of those gorgeous ones from Sticshooter...I would send him your bow to fit. It's critical for a perfect fit... just my advise