Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: tradhunter88 on January 02, 2021, 06:26:55 PM
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I just finished reducing weight and re-tillering a new Bear Montana that I picked up recently. I ended up adjusting the tiller from 1/4” positive where it came from tbt factory to 1/8 positive as that has worked well on for me on recurves in the past. Went out and shot some 2016 shafts bare and fletched. The fletched shafts appear to fly well, but the bare shafts shoot about 6” low at 15 yards and enter pretty nock high. Left and right the stick in pretty straight. I adjusted the nocking point all over the place and got nock high flight both split and 3 under. I have a toothpick under my rug rest and double nocking points tied on the string. I usually can get great bareshaft flight out of my bows although this is the first straight gripped bow I have had in years. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Is it possible that even though they appear to fly ok left and and right that the shafts are stiff and bouncing off the shelf?
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What is the weight at your draw length? I've seen a bunch of people having trouble bare shafting here lately. 2016's are pretty stiff if cut down any from full length. I've been shooting some that I have cut down out of some 55 pound bows.
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45# at 28”
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The 2016s usually work well for me at that poundage but I usually shoot metal riser ILF recurves that have more center shot.
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Yeah it's hard to say if they have been working for you. They seem like they would be stiff,but if you had them full length they would work.
I've been shooting 600 spine or if aluminum 1916 in that weight of bow.
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" .......... straight gripped bow ....."
I suspect that 'it's all in the wrist'.
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Tried some weaker shafts, looser nock fit, and adjusting my grip. Nothing helped! It shoots consistently nock high!
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I made a paper tester,and use it when I just can't figure out a bow,and arrow combo. I reread your first post,and you said the fletched shafts flew well? This is usually what I do. I take shafts I think will work and go out with a few different field points,and look for good flight.
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" .......... straight gripped bow ....."
I suspect that 'it's all in the wrist'.
Kokopelli may have a point. You may be heeling the bow. Try putting even pressure along the grip, and then try putting most of the hand pressure further up, right under the shelf like you would grip a recurve, and see if that has any effect on the nock high.
Edit: when you grip it 3 under, try increasing pressure on the index finger and reducing pressure on the ring finger, and see if that has any effect.
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" .......... straight gripped bow ....."
I suspect that 'it's all in the wrist'.
Kokopelli may have a point. You may be heeling the bow. Try putting even pressure along the grip, and then try putting most of the hand pressure further up, right under the shelf like you would grip a recurve, and see if that has any effect on the nock high.
Edit: when you grip it 3 under, try increasing pressure on the index finger and reducing pressure on the ring finger, and see if that has any effect.
You may be on to something with how I grip the string also. I went out and shot a few shots with almost no pressure on my ring finger and got a nock low reaction. Looks like l have some work to do.
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One more thing to be aware of;
If you cant your bow, you need to cant the release hand the same amount. Otherwise, the string gets torqued, strange things happen to arrow flight and madness ensues. I learned this the hard way & it wasn't pretty.