Post by: oldandslow on December 18, 2020, 04:57:32 PM
Can it be done?
Post by: skeaterbait on December 19, 2020, 07:35:32 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on December 19, 2020, 07:39:26 AM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 08:27:30 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on December 19, 2020, 08:30:05 AM
To make good tapered lams you need a drum sander setup.
https://youtu.be/YROaRoXTqk8
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 08:42:45 AM
Wife wont be happy!
Post by: Crooked Stic on December 19, 2020, 09:45:29 AM
Post by: Flem on December 19, 2020, 10:55:16 AM
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Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 10:59:33 AM
Post by: Flem on December 19, 2020, 11:09:24 AM
Obviously its a spindle, not an edge sander, but the working end is the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ql9_wyb2m9U
Post by: bubby on December 19, 2020, 11:10:27 AM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 11:14:14 AM
Got a picture Bubby?
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 11:21:02 AM
Post by: Mad Max on December 19, 2020, 11:25:34 AM
This thing is very accurate I use mine all the time.
If you can find a 1/4 HP shop fan motor work really good, That's what I did
(https://i.imgur.com/SanTK7z.jpg)
Post by: Flem on December 19, 2020, 11:28:19 AM
This is a homemade unit, sans dust hood, built on the cheap.
Post by: Shredd on December 19, 2020, 11:32:29 AM
I will try to remember to post a pic of my device... It is very accurate and I can dial it in to a couple of thou's of an inch...
Post by: bubby on December 19, 2020, 11:32:55 AM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 11:34:27 AM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 11:36:15 AM
Maybe I should take my cut lams out there...lol
Post by: Buemaker on December 19, 2020, 01:13:29 PM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 06:48:01 PM
Interesting going g thru the planer 😉.
The taper portion seems good enuf.
The wood takes a bit of a beating...chipout and stuff. Also the glue aspect would be useless as someone said. Made for an informative afternoon.
Post by: Flem on December 19, 2020, 06:58:32 PM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 07:34:51 PM
It wasn't so bad. Then I tried a piece of that same oak...no good at all. It is very very hard.
The last piece may have been some walnut.
I couldn't tell. It was a scrap piece. I could try some ash. I have some of that. But still even if it worked getting a rough sand for glue up would be another chore.
Still might be worth fooling with as I learn the craft
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 07:49:50 PM
Post by: oldandslow on December 19, 2020, 07:50:56 PM
Thickness.
Post by: mmattockx on December 20, 2020, 11:30:47 AM
Sigh...yes
Wife wont be happy!
If you have decent woodworking tools and skills you can make one that will be perfectly serviceable for a tiny fraction of what a commercial unit costs. Mine cost me ~$125 in parts aside from the motor (which I already had).
That mark guy lives near me Flem.
Maybe I should take my cut lams out there...lol
Is this me you are referring to? Where are you located?
What is a typical size at each end of a taper?
Thickness.
That does depend a lot on the particular bow. A recurve stack will be something like 0.250"-0.300" at the butt end of the lams and then have a 0.001"-0.002" taper to the tips. If that stack has 0.040" glass that leaves 0.170"-0.220" for the core lams and that will probably be split between two lams. So each one will be ~0.100" thick at the butt end and then maybe 0.070" at the tip.
Longbows have thicker stacks, more like 0.400"-0.450" at the butt end and more taper along the length.
Mark
Post by: oldandslow on December 20, 2020, 01:24:54 PM
Post by: Shredd on December 20, 2020, 03:21:35 PM
Post by: oldandslow on December 20, 2020, 03:29:34 PM
If you already have an edge sander or a put a belt sander on it's side, this is probably the cheapest way to go and it is very accurate... The pivoting pin inline with the drum keeps things more at a constant which makes it very accurate... The threaded adjuster off to the side allows for very fine adjustment... I think one turn gives you about 8 to 10 thou which means a 1/4 turn will give you 2 thou... The device gets clamped down and I put 2 - 10lb. plates on top of those two boards in the middle to keep the pivoting section down and in place...
Could I get you to email me some photos with enuf detail to start building this. I think that would work well for me! Thanks
Post by: Shredd on December 20, 2020, 09:29:11 PM
Post by: oldandslow on December 20, 2020, 09:58:10 PM
Sure...Oldandslow at shaw.ca
Thanks
Post by: Flem on December 20, 2020, 11:30:12 PM
Post by: Mad Max on December 20, 2020, 11:35:07 PM
Nice jig Rich :thumbsup: How is it attached to the table?
You make a pretty rig :laughing:
Looks good :thumbsup:
Post by: Shredd on December 21, 2020, 12:07:53 AM
Post by: mmattockx on December 21, 2020, 10:28:36 AM
Could I get you to email me some photos with enuf detail to start building this. I think that would work well for me! Thanks
Honestly, there is enough in the pics posted to make that. The backing board that holds the lam against the belt should be 2" wide, maybe a bit more. Make the base maybe 12"-14" long X 10"-12" wide or as required to fit your setup. Use 3/4" plywood for both the base and the swinging board. Try to get the vertical height of the centerline of the adjusting bolt near the centerline of the the backing board the lam runs against to minimize twist in the swinging board.
Everything can be tweaked to suit the space and arrangement you have in your shop and very little of it is critical. Use the pics more as a conceptual guide than a hard and fast design you need to copy verbatim.
Shredd, is that a standard belt sander laid on its side or an actual edge sander?
Mark
Post by: Shredd on December 21, 2020, 02:32:51 PM
It is a 6 x 48 Harbor Freight sander... Actually a pretty decent sander... I am happy with it... I don't know if the newer ones are any good... they look a little different... Their 4" sanders suck... I have one that I put on it's side and put a real 1/2 hp motor to it and with a 50 grit zirc belt... The thing is now a beast... I use it for all my rough sanding and shaping...
The 6 x 48 is on it's side... Two bolts go through the base and hold it to the table... The base is also shimmed so that the drive drum is 90* to the table... I have two more bolts threaded into the table that the sander also rests on... I can raise these up or down to get the platen 90* to the table...
For the first couple of years I kept thinking that I needed a big 'ol edge sander... Then I put that 6" sander on it's side and did not like it for sanding my limbs... I felt it was to long and if I was not careful the limb would sometimes be getting sanded where I was not looking... Now I sand my limbs on that 4" sander... It sands only the area that you are working on and in your site... It seems that I had come full circle and found out that smaller is better... For me anyway... :thumbsup:
Post by: mmattockx on December 21, 2020, 03:54:12 PM
The 6 x 48 is on it's side... Two bolts go through the base and hold it to the table... The base is also shimmed so that the drive drum is 90* to the table... I have two more bolts threaded into the table that the sander also rests on... I can raise these up or down to get the platen 90* to the table...
I like this idea. I have a generic 4x36 belt sander I will have to look at with an eye to mounting it on its side. I like the jack bolt idea for squaring it all up with the table.
For the first couple of years I kept thinking that I needed a big 'ol edge sander... Then I put that 6" sander on it's side and did not like it for sanding my limbs... I felt it was to long and if I was not careful the limb would sometimes be getting sanded where I was not looking...
I can see that happening. I have enough issues some days with that on my 4x36, a longer belt seems like more opportunity for disaster.
Mark
Post by: oldandslow on December 23, 2020, 03:12:04 PM
It's just an extension spring? 3.5 × 5/8?
Post by: Mad Max on December 23, 2020, 04:44:40 PM
Could I get you to email me some photos with enuf detail to start building this. I think that would work well for me! "
Shredd "sure"
Mark
Could I get you to email me some photos with ALL details to start building your R/D bow? I think that would work well for me! :)
Post by: JamesV on January 05, 2021, 03:39:57 PM
James
Post by: williwaw on January 05, 2021, 04:43:10 PM
With a little practice you can cut perfect tapers with a thinkness planer using a good heavy sled.
James
how thick works for you James? I can see too thick being a problem if they warp from drying
Post by: Flem on January 05, 2021, 04:49:34 PM
Post by: Mad Max on January 05, 2021, 05:16:25 PM
James, you should educate us with a video of your planer technique. I would get off my high horse to watch that one for sure :thumbsup:
I watched him do it :thumbsup:
You put it on a sled and run it threw, If I remember correctly it went threw the planer faster than a baby drumsander.
Post by: Flem on January 05, 2021, 06:10:48 PM
Post by: oldandslow on January 05, 2021, 08:02:22 PM
I put new blades in my planer and they still begin getting tear out as they get thin...
I got a taper sled now and cut them on the table saw. Works ok...but I've a plan to build a purpose built lam sander from a motor and drum.
Post by: oldandslow on January 05, 2021, 08:05:30 PM
What kind of planer are we talking about here? I'm guessing it must be one of those bench top hobby planers, cause I can't imagine running .200" tapered slats thru my 15" Delta. Don't think there would be anything usable coming out the other side.
Maybe a helical? Probably get less tearout with those tiny blades?
Post by: macbow on January 17, 2021, 09:05:25 PM
Post by: Flem on January 18, 2021, 11:06:04 AM