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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Tdaniels on December 13, 2020, 09:18:42 AM
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I’m new to clickers , but would like to try one on a 58” whistler . My question is , where do you want it to click? At the very end of expansion or sooner ? Thanks for the previous help too !
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It takes a little tinkering to get it just right but ultimately you want it to click at full expansion. It's a very fine line but worth the effort to get it right.
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As Knobby stated, clickers were designed to be used as a trigger for the shot: when you reach full expansion, the clicker goes off and you automatically release the shot without thinking about it. This is how a person who uses a dynamic release would use a clicker.
However, clickers are also useful as a draw check: to ensure that you have reached full draw, and don't creep. If you creep, the clicker will click again on the way down. This is most useful for those who use a dead release, where there is no backward movement of the arrow at the point of release. The shooter draws the bow and expands until the clicker clicks. After the clicker clicks, the shooter locks off and holds without losing back tension until the shot is released via a subconscious release or some kind of external non-anticipatory psychotrigger.
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I’m new to clickers , but would like to try one on a 58” whistler . My question is , where do you want it to click? At the very end of expansion or sooner ? Thanks for the previous help too !
When set up and used correctly the clicker (clickety click / cricket )should go off a little bit after full anchor
Using one correctly takes lots of work. The biggest problem I see guys making is
Expanding / motoring / pulling ( how ever you want to describe it) to the click.
The correct way is to (pull ) to your conclusion of your shot. The clicker should be set to go off just a tad past your anchor.
Just because it’s what I use as a conclusion I’ll describe it here as I do it.
My conclusion is touching my shoulder. There are several different conclusions find what you like best.
So for my shot I come to full draw every aspect of my shot from stance to grip to anchor, head placement, motor and conclusion are done in graining them to muscle memory on a blank bale from 5 feet.
Literally thousands of shots later the entire shot sequence happens with no thought to anything but the spot you want to hit.
In my opinion aiming isn’t something you do at full draw it’s something that happens for a micro second in time,when your brain tells your body everything is perfect and your body goes through the act of expansion/ pulling with no thought.
I’ve been shooting clickers for 30 years. I was fortunate to have worked for one of the greatest archery minds ever Len Cardinale .
As for setting the clicker a couple other tips one is you can micro adjust the location of the click by sliding the string up or down in your bowstring and find the location within an 8 th of an inch that feels best for you. Another is go on Amazon and order a couple of dog training clickers ( pic enclosed)
Replace the clickety click tab... you’ll need to drill a little bigger hole in the existing one to make it fit but it’s well worth the effort.
I would normally go through 3/4 clickers a year with this new type it’s lasted me two years... in fact pm me and I’ll send you one. I order way too many.. lol
Lastly don’t be afraid to cover it with moleskin. I’ve gotten mine to where I feel the click in my fingers more than hear it.
Sorry for rambling on... (https://www.amazon.com/Coolrunner-Universal-Training-Clicker-Obedience/dp/B01M0I5NGG)
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(http://[url=https://www.amazon.com/Coolrunner-Universal-Training-Clicker-Obedience/dp/B01M0I5NGG] https://www.amazon.com/Coolrunner-Universal-Training-Clicker-Obedience/dp/B01M0I5NGG[/url])
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Shug how are you attaching the clicker to the bowstring? I've replaced the chain and string that come with the clicker to d braid material( d loop cord ). I split my bowstring and place clicker cord through it. Should I tie a knot on the end of the clicker cord to hold it in place? Thanks
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I just put a clicker on a few days ago and am having troubles also. One problem i'm having is I can hardly hear it
(Crick-it brand) anyone know a way to make it louder, I am a little hard of hearing or so I have been told many times a day by Mrs. Also after a few shots it seems I have to pull farther and I'm sure nothing is moving. If I shorten the string the 1st time I pick up the bow I trigger the click before I settle into my for my shot. Any thoughts?
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SS I have the same issues sometimes. Seems first shot goes off quick. Second, third, fourth shots are good and then i struggle to make it pop. I assume it's fatigue. If I rest or only shoot one arrow at a time and then retrieve it I'm much more consistent.
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Shug how are you attaching the clicker to the bowstring? I've replaced the chain and string that come with the clicker to d braid material( d loop cord ). I split my bowstring and place clicker cord through it. Should I tie a knot on the end of the clicker cord to hold it in place? Thanks
I also split the string .. I don’t tie it in a knot any more I get it set as close as possible to perfect then burn the tag end as it burns close to the bowstring I pat it out and flatten it against the string. It hardens and won’t slip back through.
When I make my final micro adjustment I just serve it in the exact location to avoid any sliding.
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I just put a clicker on a few days ago and am having troubles also. One problem i'm having is I can hardly hear it
(Crick-it brand) anyone know a way to make it louder, I am a little hard of hearing or so I have been told many times a day by Mrs. Also after a few shots it seems I have to pull farther and I'm sure nothing is moving. If I shorten the string the 1st time I pick up the bow I trigger the click before I settle into my for my shot. Any thoughts?
Post your email and I’ll send pics of the new ones I use as I said previously they last ridiculously long compared to the cricket metal tabs. They are noisier but I silence them down with mole skin.
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Thanks shugs! [email protected] for a pic of the newer models.
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Thanks Shugs. Could I get the link too please.
[email protected]
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Torn up my share could I get the link. [email protected] Thanks
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Can you send me the link at [email protected]. Thanks. Ken
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Post your email and I’ll send pics of the new ones I use as I said previously they last ridiculously long compared to the cricket metal tabs. They are noisier but I silence them down with mole skin.
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[email protected]
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Would be interested in the link also, [email protected]
Thanks,
Mark
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Shug,
I would be interested in the link and pics as well please.
Are you using the body of the clicker and just replacing the metal blade with the plastic one from the dog clicker? I have a new Black Widow on order and need to get a clicker on the way for when it arrives.
Thanks,
Gary
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Shug,
I would appreciate the link and pic also. [email protected]
Bob
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Tdaniels,
The best instructor on using a clicker or any other type of shot trigger is Joel Turner. He used to be on here as clickerman but I haven't seen him post in awhile. I took a seminar from him back in 2012. He still does in person seminars but also offers on-line courses and has a book available. He is an excellent teacher. You can find all that at his website www.shotiq.com.
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I don't know how most people use them. But I use them the way I see olympic shooters use them. Draw, hold at anchor, adjust sight picture as needed, expand until you hear the click & relax the string hand to let the arrow fly.
I think it's easy to get caught up in thinking about what is the right vs wrong way to use a tool instead of ways that work or don't work. Any system will work if you work it.
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Thank you Sir , I’ll look that up
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I tried one a few times and can’t really describe what my problem was other than it seem to break my concentration on my shot or something. It seemed like a good idea to try as a draw length trainer but it wasn’t for me.
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I don't know how most people use them. But I use them the way I see olympic shooters use them. Draw, hold at anchor, adjust sight picture as needed, expand until you hear the click & relax the string hand to let the arrow fly.
That’s how I used mine.
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I tried one a few times and can’t really describe what my problem was other than it seem to break my concentration on my shot or something. It seemed like a good idea to try as a draw length trainer but it wasn’t for me.
I usually make my best shots using the clicker in a more modified way. Late in the draw, I set my gap or point the arrow where I want it to go and then just continue the draw all the way back. If I stop the draw at anchor and then slowly try to regain that back tension, as I see olympic archers do, I tend to pluck the release more often. The less I think about it, the better I do. The longer it takes, the wider my groups get. At least for now. Next week, who knows?
I'd love to ditch the clicker completely. But I can't seem to shoot the same without it. It's a crutch but one that keeps me shooting.
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What makes a clicker break? I've shot the klickety klick clicker for ten years on all my bows and don't recall ever having a part break. I replace the string that comes with them to no stretch but haven't got away from the adjustable chain yet. I would like to do that
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What makes a clicker break? I've shot the klickety klick clicker for ten years on all my bows and don't recall ever having a part break. I replace the string that comes with them to no stretch but haven't got away from the adjustable chain yet. I would like to do that
I've been using D-loop cord for about 5 years. I like that there's no metal slapping against the limb. Much quieter & doesn't ding up the limb. I usually replace it a couple times a year. This year is an exception -- 3 replacements. May have it figured out.
I recently saw that somebody else uses braided fishing line. Might have to try it if I have to keep replacing D-loop every 200 shots.
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Hello,
Just wondering if anybody could send me the link for the clickers that Shug is using. My email is [email protected]
Thanks,
Mark
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Best advice regarding a clicker is the following, if your form is not set in stone, going to a clicker will make your life a living hell. You need to be 100% consistent and ensure you have solid form. Otherwise you will trip the clicker too early, or fight through it. I've seen archers collapse their form to make it fit to the clicker, over expanding into their bow arm or chest. The best scenario is you draw to the same point consistently and the effort it takes to trip the clicker is minor and almost impossible to notice.
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I just want to clear up some info I saw that I can't quite agree with. I have a background as an Olympic style recurve archer, and a clicker is most definitely not set to click at full expansion. It is set to click almost at the very beginning of expansion. The better(read:more consistent) you are, the closer you can set the clicker to the very beginning of expansion. Watch the top archers shoot, and you can see about a millimeter or two of arrow tip underneath their clicker. That means that they only have to expand that 1 mm until the shot goes off. Now, most of us can't draw within a millimeter every time, so we have to set our clickers with some amount of tolerance. Just set your clicker so that you can pull through it as soon as you decide to start expansion from your anchor and hold, while making sure that you're not setting it too fine to the point where you are sometimes getting it to click before you're ready for the shot to go off. The expansion during the shot should be almost imperceptible to anyone watching. If you have your body expanded all the way before the shot goes off, there's nowhere to follow through to, and you're most likely going to have your chest stuck out and start getting chest and arm interference with the string.
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Hello,
Just wondering if anybody could send me the link for the clickers that Shug is using. My email is [email protected]
Thanks,
Mark
Same here please
[email protected]