reflex deflex longbows...fast flight.... 27" drawlength..pulling 43-48#s...not cut to center..28" arrow..which would you suggest ? thank you ahead of time.
What is actual draw weight and point weight you want to use? 43-48 is a big difference.
i'll be using these arrows in various longbows actual draw weight 43,47,48,45 ......point weight 125 grains to 175 grains....i definitely want a 28" arrow and would probably just change point weight up or down as needed...hope this helps..thanks!
I have used 1916 for a wide range of draw weights and degrees of center shot. With FF I would definitely lean towards 1916. I usually kept a bunch of full length shafts around just in case.
When I was shooting aluminums 1916's covered alot of bows for me.Most of the bows were not cut to center so a 1916 with a variety of different point weights usually equaled excellant arrow flight.I have a 27" draw so a 1916 cut to 27 3/4's filled the bill.
I have a 46# @ 28" longbow made from a dryad blank that shoots 29" 1816s with 100 grain points real well. My draw length is 28". You might try both sizes; you can buy single shafts from Black Widow. My bow need the softer shaft to get around the center of the bow.
The answer depends on so many variables that I'd suggest you get a couple shafts of each and bareshaft tune a perfect arrow/point combo to every bow you plan to use. In addition, to a bow's poundage and degree of centershot, many other variables can influence how a bow and projectile relate to one another...including your individual shooting style, limb design, limb materials, etc...
Just remember that when bareshaft tuning, you are trying to achieve a slightly weak showing bareshaft. When the shaft is fletched, the feathers will "stiffen" the arrow and move it right into the bullseye.
Good Luck!
Claudia
2012s,and or 2013s.i have been shooting that weight range and these are the two arrows i have found that work the most consistant for me.