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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Mad Max on August 21, 2020, 09:46:06 PM
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What is a good grain filler I can get at the big bow store or Amazon?
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I use clear shellac. Big box stores have it and quart lasts a long time.
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I have shellac and use it, If you put to much on it takes a day or so to dry.
any tips on how YOU us it?
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I use a very fine bristled 1” wide flat brush to apply a thin even coat without runs or puddling. Let dry. I live in an arid place so it dries quickly, where there is high humidity dry time is longer. Fine sand and repeat application until wood pores are filled. No tricks really, just persistence and patience. I live off grid so I avoid using hair driers (watt hogs!) but carefully used that would speed drying in humid areas.
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I have a dehumidifier in my bow room, I do mine about the same but I don't sand between coats.
I can spray or wipe on a coat every 2 or 3 minutes .
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If you use the Zinsser shellac, make sure to get the Seal Coat or decant the others. They contain wax.
You can buy dry dewaxed shellac flakes from Homestead Finishing, Shellac.net or a slew of other places.
The dry flakes are awesome because you only dissolve what you need and you can adjust viscosity to suit the project, not to mention the different tones available.
I use pumice powder, diatomaceous earth or talc mixed with tung oil as grain filler. They all go transparent. Just like any other paste filler, let it haze over and wipe with burlap. Those powders also double as rubbing compounds
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If you use the Zinsser shellac, make sure to get the Seal Coat or decant the others. They contain wax.
You can buy dry dewaxed shellac flakes from Homestead Finishing, Shellac.net or a slew of other places.
The dry flakes are awesome because you only dissolve what you need and you can adjust viscosity to suit the project, not to mention the different tones available.
I use pumice powder, diatomaceous earth or talc mixed with paraffin oil as grain filler. They all go transparent. Just like any other paste filler, let it haze over and wipe with burlap. Those powders also double as rubbing compounds
Always with the big words! :dunno:
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I'm being critiqued about being bombastic by a guy with 14 posts?
Man, what's this forum coming too? :)
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On osage self bows I use 3 coats of Tru Oil to seal the pores and then 3 coats of spar urethane to waterproof. Jawge
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Well, according to Google, your diatomaceous compound should lower the bow's cholesterol.??? :laughing:
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Well, according to Google, your diatomaceous compound should lower the bow's cholesterol.??? :laughing:
Yes and it will keep it from and getting worms! And if you really love your bow, you will rub it all over with DE and it will be as shinny as a new car.
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Flem... sent you a pm...
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I think I will stay with the Shellac :tongue:
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Me too. Don't want my bow to have shins! :)
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What?? Now you want a shiny bow, not a shinny one?
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My bows are skinny, but never shinney. :)
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https://tbirdarchery.com/products/thunderbird-sandable-filler-sealer
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Bow Man will this filler you have spray well with the same tip used to spray the Tbird finish.
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Mike most are brushing it on. It dries and is ready to sand in 15 minutes. You can spray if you want but it dries so fast that does nos work as well. If you do spray you will want a larger tip
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From the Thunderbird website description of the sealer;
"Do NOT wipe down or "clean" with solvents (acetone, denatured alcohol etc.) after applying, drying and sanding on bow as it will have an undesirable chemical reaction."
I would like to see the MSDS for that product. Bow man your website contains no MSDS info?
So is it recommended to wear gloves so you don't have to worry about body oil on the surface?
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Gloves not needed. Most spray with air or wipe with a clean cotton towel after sanding down sealer, before applying finish. If you wipe with any chemical cleaners you will get a milky look under the finish
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What about the MSDS info?
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I just tried the grain filler from bowman today and did 4 bows at the same time. . It was very simple. No mixing 2 parts or adding catalyst. Just stir and brush on. I waited 30 minutes before sanding. Works very well!!
Wiped em down and immediately started spraying thunderbird.
I don’t know that it would be necessary on all woods but definitely makes a difference on porous woods.
It saves some spraying time and saves a little on sealer.
So far I’m giving it 2 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
We will see how I like it after another dozen or so bows.
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So is it pretty easy to sand. I hate a lot of hand sanding.
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No better or worse than any other sealer.
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Crittergetter, I'm starting to think you are the shill here ;) Or maybe your just a nice guy.
I would be interested to try the Thunderbird sealer, but I am not inclined to use any chemical products unless I know the contents and can decide for myself what personal protection I may need.
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Flem, not sure what a shill is? :biglaugh:
This is my first time using it and wanted to share my experience.
I treated it just like I do the thunderbird or any other sealer.
Always wear my mask when sanding and have the exhaust fan running to blow the fine dust outside as well as when spraying.
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Ok , I googled it.
Just to be clear, I have never met or even spoken with Bowman. Not even on the phone. And this is the first time I’ve purchased anything from them. (To the best of my knowledge)
Just sharing my experience....
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I used the Tbird filler on a couple Wenge and Zebrawood risers, and it worked great. Wenge takes some doin to fill, but when done it sure finished out beautifully. a lil goes a long way so a quart would do ya for a good long time. Make sure ya got good ventilation, the stuff does get a lil strong.
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I got some of the sealer works good and drys fast. But I would just as soon use a gloss epoxy for base coats. I fills pretty good and sprayable. Stay clear after a lot of coats. 320 it and top coat.
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Another tip using the t-Bird filler. I apply one spray coat of T-Bird epoxy before applying the filler. Otherwise some of the color of the riser wood can "bleed" on to the lighter wood in the lams when applying the filler. This is particularly true with oily woods like cocobolo. For most woods, I use 1 coat of epoxy, 3 coats of filler, sand, and then 3 coats of epoxy. Some woods like Wenge require more filler.
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Another tip using the t-Bird filler. I apply one spray coat of T-Bird epoxy before applying the filler. Otherwise some of the color of the riser wood can "bleed" on to the lighter wood in the lams when applying the filler. This is particularly true with oily woods like cocobolo. For most woods, I use 1 coat of epoxy, 3 coats of filler, sand, and then 3 coats of epoxy. Some woods like Wenge require more filler.
I had that happen to me , the E Indian Rosewood bled on to the glass using shellac & pure grain alcohol.
I had to go back with the Alcohol and clean it off, GOOD TIP Horsey :thumbsup:
(https://i.imgur.com/eKwcQ5z.jpg)