Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Jcarroll611 on August 18, 2020, 07:25:37 PM
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What are your best tips for hunting from a tree stand with your trad bow?
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Watch the lower limb tip clearance.
:campfire:
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Don't forget the upper limb too.
Bend at the waist.
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Diligence in the use of proper safety harness.
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Hunt in the right spot, dont hunt for the "perfect" tree. 12 feet high and 20 yards away beats 20 feet high and 12 feet away every day and twice on sunday :)
R
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Pat, Sam and Ryan all have excellent points.
:campfire:
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These are all good tips. last year on my first successful recurve hunt , I pulled back , let down, sandwiched a few branches in between the string and my top limb. Panicked around with getting them out as the buck came closer and then double lunged him at 12 yards. Couldn’t believe it all worked out.
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In addition to what's already been said, set up so you have the best clearance/mobility in the direction from which you expect the deer to come/pass.
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...but be prepared for a deer to come from any side. In some cases you won't have a shot. Use these times to virtually pick a spot.
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1. Practice from the stands you'll be hunting from before taking it to the woods.
2. Pay attention to limb clearances when setting your stand.
3. Remember limb clearance before drawing on game.
4. Don't change your form to shoot down, bend at the waste.
5. Be prepared to not take a shot vs taking a forced or bad shot.
And lastly watch your limb clearance! If you can't tell I've forgotten this one more than once. :banghead:
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If you can get a stand with a flip up seat that really makes a difference for the shot and concealment. Your able to move easier with it flipped up.
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Bend at the waist, have good background cover, use lifeline, and watch limb tips. All good tips.
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All very good answers. Imo one of the most important and Ryan aluded to it it licking the right location. That doesn’t mean it’s a one pick deal. Either you need to use multiple stands set for different winds and conditions or you need to use a climber which is my preference.
Imagine you’re hunting oaks. To make things easy say all have some. You pick hunt actively dropping and used trees,areas. Eventually they deplete. The deer move to another white, that eventually depletes, sooner or later the blacks, etc etc but you need to be mobile otherwise you’re often just spending an evening w a view. Think about that.
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Good tips above. One they I did on mine was wrap any metal with i/o carpet to lessen any chance of my bow limb bumping it at anytime and making noise.
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Have plenty of stands. I want plenty of set ups and options. I also want things set up ahead of time to minimize disturbance during season. I've "accumulated" a few stands over the years from here and there. I put lots of stands in the woods (private ground) for situations I know about, suspect, or think might develop. In a normal year I might not even sit 1/3 or more of the stands I have out because the situation doesn't develop for one reason or another.
My place in Missouri is 90 acres and I've whittled it down to 10 high probability stands over the 8 years I've owned it. My new place in Indiana is 95 acres and I have 13 stands up now, and I'm sure I'll put up a couple more at least during the season from observation. The place I have permission to hunt down the road is about 100 acres and I've got 8-10 stands I'll put up soon, been hunting on there for 20 years.
Last count I had around 50 stands not counting a bunch of ladder stands Dad gave me when he quit using them that are stored in the barn rafters for when I get older.
R
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You might say "Why not use a climber instead of hanging 35 stands?"
I've discussed/debated this with friends before and last time I did the math I had like 28 stands up and you could have gotten a climber on 2-3 of them due to multiple trunks, crooked trees, limbs etc. All that stuff gives you cover. Telephone pole trees dont. Also see my first reply...I hunt deer, I dont hunt straight trees!
:goldtooth:
R
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Get yourself a heavy-duty, battery-powered pole saw. Cutting shooting lanes in August is pretty easy with one of those. If you use ladder stands, change the ratchet straps -- a few bucks invested in safety beats a serious injury any day.
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...and, if you can, use ladder stands because getting into them is so quiet and easy. Getting to and into your stand with as little fuss and noise as possible can be important.
My 2 cents worth.
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You might say "Why not use a climber instead of hanging 35 stands?"
I've discussed/debated this with friends before and last time I did the math I had like 28 stands up and you could have gotten a climber on 2-3 of them due to multiple trunks, crooked trees, limbs etc. All that stuff gives you cover. Telephone pole trees dont. Also see my first reply...I hunt deer, I dont hunt straight trees!
:goldtooth:
R
Ryan this is another good point. You need a straighter tree when using climbers. I’d def agree w the way you’re set up. To the op though a lot depends on tree type in area. No tree allows complete shooting in all directions. If you pick climber trees next to say a leafy sapling or sort of enveloped in a pine of sorts. If you pick a multiple limbed tree or one with another tree growing nearby or almost leaning on yours. Those are some tricks. If you have strictly crooked trees as stated in that situation a hang on might be better.
But even with multiple stand I’d bet you don’t have 50 I almost never hit the same tree more than a time or so a year. Stay with your deer either w a climber or hang on. Utilize your cover as well. Very important
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Permanently attach a haul up line to your stand so it's easily accessible and add a simple hook to it in case you drop something. :banghead:
On 2 of my stands I had quick disconnects for Kwiki Kwiver. I carry the quiver either on my bow or with a shoulder strap. I mounted the connector So I had access to the arrows while sitting but out of the way of my shooting. Once comfortable in the tree haul up the quiver and mount it, take out 1 arrow and you are ready for action.
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Hunt deer not trees, hunt the wind, clear lanes early, strap yourself ALL excellent points. Along with take a few shots from stand once set.
:campfire:
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I like to set up on blind spots on runs. In trees that have evergreens grown around them or near them that cover me and cut shooting lanes. I shoot off my deck everyday which is 10ft high so thats how high I hang my stands because im used to that and will not have a steep angle shot.
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Carry an extra arrow to shoot at the beginning of an afternoon hunt and the end of a morning hunt out of your tree stand so you know how your bow shoots at different distances or where you would anticipate a deer to walk thru.
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Comfort and safety is a must! Use a good quality stand with a good cushion and you’ll hunt longer!
I also like a good bow holder that keeps by bow readily accessible. Allows me to keep my hands warm and what not.
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2x^^^ this.
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Remember to pull your bow up the tree and not leave it resting comfortably on the ground.............
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...a good reason for a hook on the end of your permanently attached pull up cord. :thumbsup:
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Pat what kind and size of a hook are you referring too?
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Always Always Always, use a Life Line when ascending or descending...
Even though I hunt 100% from the ground, all 45 set stands set are equipped with Life Lines.
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Scott... is up early this am....tried to call. :wavey:
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Kenneth, I've used a coated wire that is stiff enough to hold the weight of whatever you may drop from your stand or forget to bring up. The hook isn't something you would use all the time but nice to have if necessary. Tying a small stick, like a toggle, will work for some items if it has an appropriate catch area like the tip of the limb where the string meets the tip or a strap on a day pack or quiver. The hook or stick would be added to the haul up string if needed.
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Not to hijack the thread, but what are folks using to hang their bow in the tree? I have a cheap strap-around with a plastic hook, but concerned that the bow will get wedged with that between the string and limb. Suggestions?
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Always take extra glove/tab, gloves, head/face covering, etc. I can't count the times I have dropped something without a backup and had to climb down to retrieve it. I also take a pee bottle. I'm older now and just can't stay in the stand all morning without taking a leak.
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Around twenty years ago I started setting up with a tree in front of me. This has been extremely effective helping me get the shots I want at unalarmed deer. All kinds of benefits to this and I do it automatically now when picking trees.
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Agree with Ryan. My stands are getting lower all the time and it’s not because I’m afraid of heights. It’s because of the better shot angles etc. just makes it so much easier to make the shot.
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I often take a practice shot before getting down.
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Hunt in the right spot, dont hunt for the "perfect" tree. 12 feet high and 20 yards away beats 20 feet high and 12 feet away every day and twice on sunday :)
R
I like this!!!
Sam,...
I hunted out of baker stands.... safety wasn't a 'tip :biglaugh:
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In addition to what's already been said, set up so you have the best clearance/mobility in the direction from which you expect the deer to come/pass.
Like this too!!! You should know in which direction they are coming/going/traveling....if not you didn't do enough homework
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Ok... read everyone's post...tips... good stuff
Stand as long as you can and hold your bow in hand with arrow nocked. #1 Tip. Gotta be in position when the ball is snapped.
Both are serious advantages due to hidden silhouette and unnecessary movement. Not only did these two most important tips cause me to drop the wheels years ago, but also were big factors on killing 3 deer in 13 minutes Oct 17th 91.
I'm older now and can't stand as long as I use to...but I play the moon and stand accordingly.... also I now try to use a back drop much more than I never did. Yes, never did.... hogs n bears don't care,(I don't bait)but deer do and sitting casts a larger blob silhouette and the need to stand on occasion I have found caused the need to have more back cover.
I LOVE these kind of threads!!! I love learning!
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I’m constantly being reminded by deer that Trad stand sites are very different from compound sites. Im attempting to set up to maximizes Opportunities for quartering away shots once they pass my stand. Which is tough because have to be undetected on approach need cover front back or both. Hard to draw at stickbow range with deer broadside. I use lone wolf hand climber set up to allow a quarter seated position almost standing and have bow with arrow nocked and ready. No limb clearance issues With hand climber because no rails, but safety harness is nonnegotiable. Peeing from stand is a basic joy of life, and seems to have no affect on deer behavior. One of my new favorite setups is split trunked white oak. Gives less human shaped tumor on side of tree effect.
Enough from me now we need to hear from the Wensels they are consistently killing mature bucks at low elevations at point blank range I’m sure it’s no surprise to the folks on this sight they are the authorities on this subject.
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Not sure where you live but my LW climber is my most used stand. I’m lucky I can 99.9% of the time. But do have a saddle and LW sticks for areas I need to. And GO!!! That’s the best advise I ever got and tell others. Just go. I go and go and go. And almost always pays off. And don’t be afraid to move around. I don’t sit in same spot I move around or hunt other properties
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Terry funny you say your number one tip is to stand. A good friend of mine never sits because he says he always falls asleep. But he has killed more big deer than anyone I personally know. I’m sure it has contributed to his success.
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Check limb Clearance with your bow canted if you shoot that way and drawn, last year I hit a nice buck poorly when my lower limb hit my seat that was flipped up
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I like my climbers - LW and now XOP......I have no trouble finding a good tree where I want to set up.....Like Cory said you learn how to use other trees and such for cover - almost an art in itself....I use hang ons when necessary.....Can't beat a good climber for safety, mobility and ease of climbing in my opinion. I've climbed more than once and then see a deer nearby that never heard me climbing - climbing quietly is not hard with the good climbers and taking your time.
I use a rock climbing harness from the ground up so am very safe...
Find what works best for you and become an expert in using it....
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One thing I haven’t seen mentioned. I always walk into my stand so the deer won’t hit my scent trail before I get the shot. That of course, is from the way I think they will/should come. Doesn’t always go as planned. I have seen them pass my trail without a blink and blow up like there’s no tomorrow
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I have been watching this thread. There are a lot of great suggestions here!
I almost never select a straight tree for a stand. I don't own a climber. I am lucky to have my own 28 acre patch of woods and I have about 6 or 7 stands set up. I look for forked or multi-trunk trees and use those whenever I can. They obscure your outline and if a deer can make you out from 50 or 75 yards away you won't have to worry about making a 15 or 20 yard shot. So I rally focus on a set-up that keeps my silhouette obscured.
But a mediocre tree in a great spot is better than a great tree in a mediocre spot. I am dealing with that this weekend. There is a great spot on my place but the great trees are all 50+ yards away. Last weekend I lugged a steel ladder-stand to a mediocre tree that has a young white pine growing behind it. (What a pain in the butt those steel ladder-stands are!) This weekend I plan to cut a couple of cull white pines and lop off the top 15 feet of each, drag the tops to the the ladder-stand site and wire them upright next to the ladder stand to "enhance" the cover around the stand. Artificial Christmas garland is a great tool for this but I didn't buy enough after Christmas last year and I am out.
Most of my stands are hang-on stands that I make myself out of structural aluminum shapes. At 71 I am getting less fond of screw-in steps and I make ladders out of PT 2x4s with 1x6 PT rungs. They are MUCH lighter than a steel ladder stand so its much easier to move a stand if the sign dictates the need. I have to make 2 more for this upcoming season. I just lean the ladder up against the tree, climb up and lash the top of the ladder in place, install safety line, hang my stand, and I am ready to hunt.
With every stand I have an access plan - a path I take for the last 20 - 30 yards to get to the stand that is made quiet.
All this is easy when you have limited-access land. For public land it is MUCH harder!
Stick a big one!
JMC
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A lot of great tips, keep them coming. I like to tie a 6 /8 inch piece of un-waxed dental floss to the top tip of my bow and a similar piece to a branch where it is visible. The slightest bit of breeze will be detected and if the air movement gets wrong you should change stands rather than take a chance of spooking your targeted animal out of the country.
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I don’t normally use a bow holder , preferring to just hold on to my bow. Occasionally though the situation will arise when I need to have both hands free. For instance, putting on a jacket, digging in my pack to see what’s in there or perhaps I had too much coffee. Anyway , I have a knot in the end of my safety rope , just wedge the rope at the knot between the bow string and limb and it will just hang there. Beats hoping it balances on your knees. Probably won’t work with a longbow.