Guys and Gals I've decided to take on the task of refinishing my Robertson but would like to see some bows that were finished in Tru-Oil.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b49/rmoore201/Our%20Bows/RobertsonMontanaFalcon004.jpg)
Heres a before Pic! :pray: :pray: :pray:
Here's one I just finished
(http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/bjornweb/DSCN1206.jpg)
I lost count of the coats; probably 8. I don't steel wool between every coat, and I allow more dry time between coats than what it says on the bottle.
Here one I did some years back with Tru Oil
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v107/doublelung/TDR13.jpg)
Two for you!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v437/BloodTracker/General%20pictures/2osagebows2.jpg?t=1208625903)
do you put anything over the tru oil when finished? i figure i might try it if it is water proof and long lasting
This is also a very interesting topic for me! I have two bows I would like to refinish.
Dave in Ft. Collins, CO
It is very waterproof and flexible; but not very dent resistant compared to spray epoxies. I generally rub with very fine steel wool at the end and finish with a car wax if I am after a shiny surface.........or just steel wool and leave it if I want dull for hunting.
I'm doing a board bow and will finish it with Tru-oil...
I have 2 bows that I just finished last week with Tru Oil and have pictures but have not figured out how to post them here yet. I would be glad to email them.
Stinger email them to me and I will post them for you. rmoore201@cox.net
I have refinished several with Tru oil and like it very much. I apply several coats to fill the grain. After the last one has dried for at least 24 hours, I rub it with 0000 steel wool loaded with linseed oil to get a very smooth, satin finish. If I want it duller after that, I spray on some Krylon matte finish (after drying of course).
LB
I refinished an old Pearson Colt that has pure white glass limbs and now after a few years the limbs have a yellow/amber hue. The wood riser looks nice. I think on most darker woods you don't notice it and the amber hue probably gives it a richer look. It was very easy to work with though, I used the airesol product from Casey-Birchwod. Would like to know if others have experienced the yellowing on white or very light surfaces?
Burnsie
This is my first bow that I (re)finished with Tru Oil.
V-Archer
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l118/V-Archer/R-D%20bow%202008%20April/risercombi1.jpg)
V-Archer, I still can't get over the risor over-lays on that bow of yours. Absolutely beautiful! ;) :thumbsup:
Here's mine. CM H2
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/TimDougherty/Bows/TP_CM_TD_H2_1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/TimDougherty/Bows/TP_CM_TD_H2_2.jpg)
I'm re-finishing one of my Bob Lees. I'm using Formsby Tung Oil, and Minwax satin urethane. Mixed 50/50, rubbed in, and 400 wet dry sanding after the first 3 coats. Plan on putting on about 10 coats, and having a satin finish to hunt with. Nice job guys, those bows are sharp!
What kind of skin is that Gordy?
Better late than never ? ;)
Bullsnake from Mike Yancy
Gordy,
That check-mate is a work of art. What woods did you go with for the riser?
I sent mine back to Robertson, and he did an amazing job. Looks bran spanking new.
One thing to keep in mind about tru-oil (I use it pretty much exclusively lately) Tru-oil will not set up on bocote, cocobolop, bloodwood, rosewood, or many of the other exotic, resinous woods unless you seal it first. I use superglue gel and cover the whole riser with the superglue gel with a latex or nitrile glove and let it dry. Do this in a well ventilated area because supperglue in large quantities makes a strong onion smell like pumpkin pie. Steel wool the riser once and then use the tru -oil gunstock finish and it will fully set as quick as it would on maple or walnut.
Mike,
You can also use shellac as a sealer on oily woods. It's a lot cheaper than superglue and less toxic to breath.
Here's a bow that I finished with Tru-Oil about a year ago.
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/Hazel/hazelnut13.jpg)
Gordon
Wow those are all some super good looking work.Really nice.I use tru oil sometimes and if you read all this thread all the info is here.Let it dry 24 hrs between coats for sure.I do sand between coats but do not use steelwool.I like those fine scotch-brite pads from wally world for about 3.00 bucks a pack.They do not leave the gray-ish coloring and little steel splinters behind like steelwool does.Also true tru oil will not work on some woods do to their oil content.Wood sealer works great and is way cheaper then the super glue.However the super glue will fill any tiny cracks and does work great also but cost a bit more.I believe Birchwood & Casey gunstock tru oil comes in a spray can now too.Makes it pretty easy to use.Again that's some beautiful work on those bows guy's...great thread bowdoc
Yes, it comes in a spray can too.
Also I forgot to mention, get the cheap superglue from a dollar store. I spend $0.50 a tube for it.
Travis, The H2 riser is bubinga and shedua. I stripped it down and added a gold stain to make it pop a little bit.
I'm actually finishing up adding more coats now. :D
All finished with Tru-oil
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/Bows/PROJECTS076-1.jpg)
Interesting camo on the one in the middle lol.
It's for "Bucks Only"
all finished with tru-oil then rubbed down with pumice powder mixed with cooking oil. Removes the shine but leaves the finish.
I have used a combination of linseed oil and turpentine 3/1 on gun stocks and knife handles for years. It is a recipe I got from a gunsmith years ago when I refinished and checkered an old Belgium side by side. The turp. pulls the oil in to the wood. I now finish it off with a final coat or two of linseed oil (2 parts), turpentine (1 part) and shellac (1 part). The shellac helps form a slightly harder finish, but the whole process leaves the wood as the protected from water and very natural looking and feeling.